Old Kurty Bastard Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 I honestly wanted the Forester more, but couldn't even touch a 5 speed XT for price I got this one at. Subarus seem to hold their value in Colorado extremely well. And now that I'm furloughed, I have all the time in the world to work on it! ...but no money for parts. Sad face. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Kurty Bastard Posted October 10, 2013 Author Share Posted October 10, 2013 Need a little brainstorming here. I just finished swapping my stock brakes over to LGT stuff. I put on some aftermarket (A1Cardone, I believe) calipers, Stoptech slotted rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and Goodridge stainless lines. Well once I got em bled, I proceeded to 'stall drive' the thing on jack stands and listen/look for problems. Turns out the rear rotors are grinding pretty good on the brake caliper brackets... Anyone have any ideas or experience with this one? The only thing I can think of is that I got the wrong parts somewhere along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Are the rotors hitting the adapter, or the mounting bolts for the adaptor? I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Kurty Bastard Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 They were hitting the bracket itself. With a carbide bit and half an hour, I fixed it. Not the way I would have chosen to go, but I needed my car operational. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 Huh, that is odd. From what I have read, the GT rear brakes should be a bolt-on affair. You did use the GT mounting bracket along with the caliper, yes? I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 I put lgt rears on my OB with zero issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Kurty Bastard Posted October 12, 2013 Author Share Posted October 12, 2013 I think it had something to do with the quality of the calipers and all those aftermarket parts coming together. The fronts went on without any fuss, so definitely a little weird. Is there any real difference between the OBXT rear brake setup and the LGT setup? The pad and caliper sizes looked almost identical. Maybe the rotor's thicker then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Kurty Bastard Posted October 12, 2013 Author Share Posted October 12, 2013 New fronts http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131007_143832.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 I think it had something to do with the quality of the calipers and all those aftermarket parts coming together. The fronts went on without any fuss, so definitely a little weird. Is there any real difference between the OBXT rear brake setup and the LGT setup? The pad and caliper sizes looked almost identical. Maybe the rotor's thicker then? Yes, a big difference. The OBK rotors are solid, whereas the LGT rotors are vented. Slightly larger in diameter as well IIRC. I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 Truth, LGT calipers are a close second to Brembos as far as OEM Subaru setups go. LGT calipers with quality pads, rotors, SS lines, GS MCB & fluid, and you have a legit setup. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urfsin Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 Old Kurty Bastard: Did you re-use your stock OBXT calipers on the rear? Or did you swap over a complete LGT set up? It's odd that it's rubbing. I swapped over a complete LGT set up and I had zero issues. (My parts were OEM if that makes a difference I don't know) Slide It Sideways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Kurty Bastard Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 It was all supposed to to be LGT stuff, but who knows. I had a hell of a time just getting the right pads for this thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Kurty Bastard Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 So another problem popped up yesterday with the car: Under full boost it started screaming and doesn't have the same power it used to. I believe it to be either the turbo (hopefully not) or the intercooler's starting to separate. Here's a picture of the corner that usually separates on the stocker. http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131111_073210.jpg It doesn't look as bad as some I've seen, but the tabs on the bottom portion are definitely not making contact with the tank anymore. Let me know whatcha' guys think. It's not running funny or smoking, just making a shriek at full boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hometown104A Posted November 14, 2013 Share Posted November 14, 2013 I'm thinking of ordering the OB BC coilovers for my 09 OBXT. Did you order specific spring rates? How is it on rough roads? My LGT front calipers/rotors are in the mail! Cant wait to get them on the car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Kurty Bastard Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 I just used whatever the standard springs rates were, and I feel the ride's pretty good considering a lot of people talk shit about these coilovers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 18, 2013 Moderators Share Posted November 18, 2013 So another problem popped up yesterday with the car: Under full boost it started screaming and doesn't have the same power it used to. I believe it to be either the turbo (hopefully not) or the intercooler's starting to separate. Here's a picture of the corner that usually separates on the stocker. It doesn't look as bad as some I've seen, but the tabs on the bottom portion are definitely not making contact with the tank anymore. Let me know whatcha' guys think. It's not running funny or smoking, just making a shriek at full boost. See my signature! PM me with any questions. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Kurty Bastard Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 This is going to be somewhat of a big update, even though nothing's going to be happening for a while. My plan is to make somewhere around 350 ponies on E85. This is all going to be done on a budget, so the parts aren't going to be top shelf, name brand shit. I figure with a little ingenuity, some mechanical aptitude and common sense, this thing will turn out pretty reliable and make some decent power. And if not, then you all can learn from my mistakes! Haha. So far I've acquired a 20g turbo, 1000cc fuel injectors, a 265lph fuel pump, and an Infamous Performance oil feed kit. Here's pictures: http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131118_150405.jpg The injectors are from Five-0 Motorsports (as you can see, duh ) They come with a little sheet stating their static flow rates at 3, 3.5, and 4 Bar, as well as their static flow at 3,000rpm. They also have injector latency (dead time) specs on the sheet at different voltages to help your tuner get them dialed in. These were $410 shipped to my door http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131118_150233.jpg Next up is the DW65C fuel pump. This was one of the few name brand parts I will be putting into the vehicle as it's definitely critical for the survival of the engine, and somewhat of a pain in the ass to change. http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131118_134031.jpg After that is the Infamous Performance turbo line/filter kit. Even though the turbo I purchased doesn't require the use of one for warranty or any other reason, I felt this was good insurance and will take some other factors out of the equation if the turbo should fail prematurely. http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131118_133530.jpg This is a picture of the internals of the 20g turbo I ordered off Ebay along with a picture of the OE Mitsubishi rebuild kit that I ordered from Turbo Lab America. The guts that came in the turbo look no different from the rebuild kits genuine parts. Fit and finish of the stock pieces as well as the clearance left nothing to be desired. http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131118_130326.jpg This is the turbo almost all the way disassembled. As you can see, the finishes are all smooth and fit is very good. http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131118_130021.jpg Here is a picture of the back of the compressor wheel. You can see by the machining into the backside and the 'chip' at the opposite end, that this turbo has been component balanced versus assembly balanced to allow for the replacement of parts, if need be. http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131118_125806.jpg Another picture of the balancing machining going on with this turbo. This one being on the turbine side of the rotating assembly. Also pictured is the bearing for the turbine wheel. http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131118_112959.jpg http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131118_112932.jpg http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131118_112912.jpg http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o637/Kbraschler/20131118_112836.jpg These are all pictures of the complete assembly. It also came with a new uppipe gasket that didn't look like complete shit. So, draw your own conclusions on this one. I spent $500 shipped for the snail, $50 for the rebuild kit, and I'll pay $50 to have the balance checked and $75 (total) if it actually needs to get balanced. I save a considerable amount over other name brand turbos on this one and $100 or so over a BNR unit. Take what you will from this, and I'll certainly keep you up to date on any reliability issues. Feel free to offer any insight or criticism, but if it isn't constructive, then you can go ahead and **** right off. Thanks... Also, any of you Colorado people that are interested in having a turbo balanced or checked, there's a place in Aurora that does it called Central Motive Power Equipment. This has been the only place in Colorado that I've been able to find that will do this type of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostsr20 Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 The fuel pump isn't bad at all. Just did mine and it was about 45min total. What eBay store did the turbo come from? Is it the fatboy garage turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blongo804 Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Honestly, I would've spent the little more money and got a BNR unit. Bryan's customer service is top notch and it comes with a legitimate 1 year warranty (+ supporting a vendor who has supported us so well). Definitely will keep an eye on how this turbo holds up for you. Otherwise, build is coming along nicely! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Kurty Bastard Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 Fantasy Motorparts is the store it was from. And I completely agree with supporting a reputable vendor (especially supporting American business) but I had to stretch my budget to get this turbo anyway and it's a good test for other options for people on a tight budget, like myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 You will get 350 WHP with the 20g without E85. If you go E85 it will be in the 390 WHP range. Also you better update your fuel pump wiring if running E85 with a 20g. The aftermarket fuel pumps need at least 13.5-13.7 volts to run the pump like it was tested. The LGT OBXT wiring is so small you get only about 11.7v to the pump. I am the one that discovered this and here is the original and the install thread on how to do it. See starting in post 42: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fuel-pump-control-module-143860p3.html http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/upgrading-your-fuel-pump-wiring-4th-gen-213570.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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