ashwinearl Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 I moved over some Morel Tempo component speakers into my 2005 Legacy GT this weekend. I wanted to share some notes/pics for others -taking the door panel off can be a pain especially getting the handle cover off to get to the two screws in the top/bottom of the handle -you don't need to unscrew the door opener. I did the firs time and it was a real pain. There is a hidden screw under a hinged cover. The second door I realized you can just lay the panel still connected off to the side. -You can reuse the tweeter mounting brackets used for the stock tweeters. I got this idea from another post on Legacy GT. Here is a picture of the stock bracket with a saw cut started. I used a coping saw. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/9548942996_87e8ac429b_c.jpg here is a picture of the bottom part cut off and ground down. I used a 1" belt grinder to help. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3817/9548943142_f8a01810e3_c.jpg I did not run my own dedicated speaker wire. I just reused the stock wires and routed them to the cross over of the Morels then into the tweeter/woofer. -I totally cut and connected the wrong wires the first time. The speaker wires come from the head unit through the door and first get routed to the tweeter. Then in series the wires come out and go to the woofer. You have to undo the cable harness and remove the electrical tape to cut at the right place. This shows a picture of the harness undone and shows the braided wires going to the tweeter plug first then down to the plug that goes into the stock door speaker http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/9546155629_cb6d772bab_c.jpg This shows the wires cut and the crossover installed. I was able to put mine mounted to the door with one screw. In the door panel there is a spot for a crossover as long as it is not too big also. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7303/9546156401_de230e6f78_c.jpg I made these speaker rings out of plywood using a router and a circle jig. It is made from two piece of plywood glued together. I removed the 3 plastic clips used by the stock speaker. And drilled 4 new holes in to the door. then I screw the speaker into the plywood. This is a picture from the other door where I screwed up the wiring. I had to resplice into the speaker wire from the head unit and got it fixed. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3791/9548942026_b3618524c4_c.jpg The sound is better than stock but not to what these speakers are capable of. I am next going to amp the stock headunit and put a subwoofer in. The original owner has RCA cables/Power/remote wire already run to the rear compartment so I am assuming they had a subwoofer. I will use those existing RCA's into one amp and then use the RCA output of that amp into a second amp. One amp will go to the sub woofer, and then I will route the speaker output wires from the second amp back to the head unit and tap into the outgoing wires that run to the door. That way I don't have to route my own speaker wires into the door which I don't think I could do given how tight the wiring is. If that doesn't improve the sound, then the next step is to go to the double din unit and get a replacement head unit. I hope that amping the stock headunit combined with a JBL 8 subwoofer in a box designed to go in the wheel well will get to a decent place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbl_D718 Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 You should deaden your doors if you're unhappy with the sound. It's definitely worth the time, and low-end response will be much improved. Also, if you don't have an amp, that would probably make a big difference as well. Running aftermarket wires into the doors is definitely doable, but is a PITA. I got it done though, as have other members. MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bomberlegacy Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Running new wires into the doors isn't bad at all, just gotta lube em up with vasoline And yes.. Deadening the doors is a must. I recommend edead from elemental designs with a thin layer of ensolite foam on top. Your head unit is the weak link. Getting a new one will improve sound 100%. At the very least, get a JL Cleansweep or equivalent. '08 Legacy 2.5i - hybrid intake - delta 1000 - E85 - magnaflow exhaust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PortlandMade Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Can also use one of the rods electricians use to pass wires through walls to pass the wires through the door boots. (search Jameson 7SS-6 Glow Rod on Google for an example) Have you considered going the JDM double din kit route? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-dual-hvac-double-din-jdm-kit-thread-113589.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redryan98 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 OP, great information! I'm starting to do the research for a my stereo upgrade and want to be as noninvasive as possible. Can you go into a little more detail about running the amp speaker output back to the headunit? Do you just mean tapping into the stock wire that goes from the headunit to the speakers? I like that idea but just want to make sure I'm understanding correctly. Secondly, where are you tapping wires to run signal to the amp. I'm going to go with one of these LOC's to get signal to the amp. I'm just not sure where is best to receive the signal from the headunit http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC6IW/AudioControl-LC6i-White.html Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PortlandMade Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Redryan98, You can use high low converters to convert the signal on the individual channels to a lower voltage and they have RCA connections so that you can run your amp. Then you can use an intermittent power source to your factory radio for the remote turn on for the amp. Or use an amp with a signal sensing input. This is if you want to go with your current plan. I would suggest going with an Audison Bit Ten, it's a signal processor that will convert all the channels of your factory deck to RCA as well as allowing you to strip down the frequencies from the deck, and tune the Audison unit to your preference. These are $299.99 retail, but are 1000x better than the unit you linked to. You may be able to find one for around $200 used on Ebay. Additionally, it will give you an aux in. Audison also makes a control unit called a DRC that would allow you to switch to auxiliary input. Another option is to go with a JL Audio Cleansweep, although the Audison Bit Ten is a superior unit. I've taken the time to explore nearly every option for my stock system and would happily answer any other questions you might have if I can. Car audio is one of my biggest hobbies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PortlandMade Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 And with the amp's output, you can either run wires from the amp to each speaker or the easier way would be to use 9-wire and run it to the back of the deck and connect it to the wires that goto the speakers from there. 9-wire is essentially exactly what it sounds like, 9 wires bundled together, a pos and neg for each speaker and then one you use for a remote wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redryan98 Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 ^Thanks for the info Portland! I may just take you up on your offer and shoot you a few questions when the time comes. In the mean time, thanks for the explanation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PortlandMade Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 No problem, anytime! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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