decoy

In case it helps:

 

I recently bought a 2010 LGT with 160k miles on it for $9,000. The ONLY reason I payed that much is because the car is completely BONE STOCK. In my mind, modified cars (especially a turbo Subaru) are usually worth less than the unmolested ones.

Also, I am in Colorado, where we pay a premium for AWD/4WD.

I know this might be late but a dirty air filter can cause that and so can a dirty MAF sensor. Did you ever get it resolved?

 

As of now, the rough idle is so minor and only lasts for about 10 seconds before she's idling perfectly. I'm suspecting a slight vacuum leak when it's cold, and I've heard this is often caused by the tgv gaskets. If it gets worse I'll take the intake apart, otherwise it's so minimal I don't really care.

 

my engine had run rough at cold idle since i got it(100k miles). When I had my head gaskets done(145k miles), i had a couple worn shims and buckets replaced and valves adjusted and was absolutely floored at how smooth it idles on cold starts in the cold. could be something like that for you.

 

I hope it's not valve related, I'm sure that would be a pain in the ass to adjust given the location of said valves. Car idles and runs perfectly for the most part so I'm not too worried about it.

Depends on whether you are changing the rotor or not. If you are just changing pads, then its the same method as the front brakes.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

What's different about the rotor, I would probably do both pads and rotors. Do I need any special tools or anything? Thanks.

Question: Does the electronic parking brake make a rear brake job any more complicated? I recently did the front brakes, but will need to do the rears soon. I'll probably replace the pads and rotors. Someone suggested that the rear brakes are a pain in the butt because of the parking brake, any insight on this is appreciated!

I recently purchased mine with 160k on it for $8,500. To be fair though, it was completely unmodified, honestly the mods are what ruin the resale value IMO. Moded usually means driven hard, to a lot of potential buyers like myself.

 

Edit: I wanted to mention also that I live in Colorado and AWD vehicles ALWAYS sell for more out here.

Hey there, I have a 2010 LGT with 165k on the dial. The car runs perfectly and quite strong, but has one minor quirk that has been bugging me.

 

When I start the car after it's been sitting over night, and the engine is cold. during the first 30-60 seconds of idling, it's a little rough. I can feel the engine having a few little "hiccups"

 

Once she's warm, smooth as butter, but it's still something I notice and don't really like.

 

Where should I start looking so I can fix this little issue? I recently did a full tune up, including a new EGR valve and replacing all fluids.

 

Thanks!

Well, time to update. Started my engine replacement back in April and just got it back in the car a couple weeks ago. Project began after a bad misfire developed from burnt exhaust valves

 

Just curious, how long did she last? I just purchased a 2010 with 160k on the dial.

I have a 2010 limited LGT and I use bluetooth for music all the time. Also there is a auxiliary jack in the center console if you cant get BT working.

My 2010 LGT is completely stock. I love how quiet the car is, but the exhaust is pretty rusted and will need to be replaced at some point.

 

Does anyone know which aftermarket options are as quiet or at least close to stock exhaust? Thanks!

Just slow down man! You will get there eventually!

Did the previous owner have the engine re-sealed? My engine was leaking and burning oil at 80k miles and Subaru re-sealed the whole engine for me, and they paid for it. On the Carfax for my car is simply says "Vehicle Serviced, which doesn't say anything about the repair.

 

There were plenty of "vehicle serviced" on the carfax, so I guess it's possible. Before I bought the car I actually managed to track down the service manager at a dealership where the car was serviced by a previous owner. He said he remembered the car and the owner and said it was very well taken care of, one of the reasons I decided to make the buy.

Sounds awesome that you're not seeing oil consumption, did the car come with service history / receipts etc?

 

Not a ton, the previous owner had the carfax from when he bought it, but other than that, not much.

 

I did my home work before buying and I was expecting her to burn some oil, a nice surprise indeed. But yeah I am very curious about this car's history...

 

Edit: I've tried a couple online "vin decoders" none of them show an engine code of any kind.

I recently purchased a 2010 Legacy gt with 160k miles on it, the car is completely stock to my knowledge. So far I have put 2k miles on the car and there has been ZERO oil consumption. Now, I hate to look a gift horse in the mouth. But with a turbo Subaru, at this mileage, I was expecting it to burn some oil, but it does not, like AT ALL.

 

There is evidence the engine was out of the car in the past, is there any way to tell if this is the original engine?

 

Thanks!

Its funny y'all are talking about TPMS sensors, I ordered all four and am taking them to my buddys shop tomorrow to have them all replaced, they been annoying me and I figured I'd just do all four rather than just replace one and have to go back.

Just wait until you start to notice that the clutch pedal feels like it's connected to the clutch by way of a kickball.

 

...and like any good enabler, I'll even provide a link: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clutch-damper-valve-delete-223235.html

 

 

Just when I thought I was done spending time and money lol...

So I installed the Perrin linkage bushing and shift stop, boy what a difference! 1st and 2nd gear are nice and tight now and with the new bushing, it feels like it's actually connected to a transmission!

 

Thanks for the suggestions guys, my only (minor) complaint with the car has now been corrected! For 50 bucks!

My TPMS sensors are dying. On long drives the car loses signal and the TPMS light comes on.

 

Is it possible to have a shop de-program the sensors, and just not install new ones?

The 5th Gen's have a low oil level light for when its about a 1 quart down.

 

I didn't know that, thanks!

Wait a second. They told you to wait till the low oil light comes on? Isn't it extremely bad for the engine to be run that low???

This is crazy to read. I just bought a used 2.5 GT with 160,000 miles on it and it hasn't been burning ANY oil. I've actually kind of been blown away that this motor isn't burning oil. I've put 1500 since my last oil change and it hasn't gone down even a little bit.

 

Note: You might want to replace your PCV valve.

You guys mentioned shifter mods. I'll admit my one complaint about the car is the shift fee, particularly the shift from 2nd to 3rd. Could you post some links to these shift mods? Preferably the high quality ones? I'd really appreciate it.

 

Edit: I decided to buy the Perrin shift stop and shift linkage bushing, looking forward to the difference!

Not sure if it helps or not but...

 

I had a dim lowbeam on my 2010 gt. I discovered the bulb was not properly installed. Once I properly installed the bulb, the problem was fixed.

Thanks for the ideas, I'm hesitant to do any modding since the car is totally stock but it's deffinetely a temptation no lie. I just don't want to risk the engine not lasting as long ...

Heck yeah dude! Way to persevere! So awesome that you included a success pic too! Well done.

How does the LGT feel vs your previous B18 ED?

 

Hey there! The GSR Hatch was quick, and was probably a little faster off the line, but the GT is MUCH faster once that turbo kicks in! Aside from that the gt is obviously way more comfortable to drive, loving it.