xjsc16x

Very unlikely that a head gasket would fail there. More than likely, it's just the oil pan. Hit that whole area with engine degreaser and then see where the fresh spots show up

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If you still have a full set of black front seat belts, I'll take them. I don't think the rears will fit my Outback

-Justin

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I can't help you with the communications issue specifically, but I agree thatIf you have other tools that will connect to it then they shouldn't have a problem. I don't have to worry about this because I have an 05 so I am emissions exempt which means no plugin 15 years or older.

I'm in MA. Inspections really aren't that rigorous at all, they just plug you in to make sure that your monitors are ready but you're allowed to have up to two monitors not ready IIRC. Those are easy to see via a scan tool.

Obviously if you have a fairly loud exhaust or you're totally slammed or have illegal front tint then you're asking for a fail, But I didn't have much of a problem getting my 05 OBXT passed with Tein coilovers and deleted resonator and mufflers. When you pull up to the shop, pull the inspector to the side and ask him if he's going to fail you or not they're usually straightforward and will save you the headache if the answer is yes.

On your downpipe though, if you can find a CARB number for it it might help to bring it with you but just having a cat should be good enough to pass. Sounds like you just need to go to a different shop man

-Justin

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How many miles on the coilovers? Very interested.

-Justin

I'll take the hangers if you still have them I'm local. Shoot me a PM

-Justin

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I have a no name catless downpipe I'm located in MA could add money on top for your Grimmspeed let me know if you're interested

-Justin

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I have no idea if my 05 Outback XT Limited came with a stock compass but if it didn't is this still plug and play? If so I'll take a mirror and harness

-Justin

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He is right, the Legacy grill does not fit the Outback perfectly. I had to make my own:

 

Not bad. Take any pics of you doing it?

-Justin

What are the one's in RI?

I just went to Sam's last week. I am impressed with the organization but since all the cars rest on their frames getting anything under the car is rough.

I'll have to check out the two you mentioned near Billerica. I found another that I plan to check out called Henry's in Blackstone.

 

 

Thanks for the heads up on the other yards!

The two in Rhode Island are Pick n Pull. One in Cumberland one if Johnston.

Sam's (and I'd assume most other yards do this as well) has a big stack of those OEM style scissor jacks when you first walk in that you can grab and use. Obviously, bringing your own jack (and maybe a 2x4 to rest it on) would be easier. Sam's does tend to get a bit muddy when it rains.

If you need to get something off the bottom of a car, such as suspension stuff, ask one of the forklift operators driving around and they will put the car in the air on one of the big steel crates that are laying around so that you can work under it.

-Justin

There aren't many junkyards in the eastern part of Mass that actually allow you to walk the yards and pull what you want. However, between Car-part.com, these forums and the FB marketplace, I've been able to find everything I need/ want.

 

Scotty

What? There's two pick n pulls in RI, one in Worcester (Sam's), and a few in the Billerica area (Jack's and Hollands) off the top of my head.

-Justin

$2500 already lowered, what a steal! How many miles? I dig the ski box, was thinking of putting my yakima rack on this car but not sure I can run my wind fairing with the sunroof, might go the box route.

It's got a good 200k on it, bone stock and still running strong. I liked the box too but unfortunately it didn't come with the car. Might throw a snowboard rack on it though

-Justin

I think most of us would caution you about the ebay 20g. for the money you saved on it, IMO it would be smart to send it off to JmP6889928 a trusted member here who rebuilds turbo's. He can do nice things it so it will last a long time on your expensive engine.

 

I will let those that know answer the boost creep question. I trust my Tuner tuningalliance@gmail.com so I don't have issues. He will also rebuild turbo's.

 

Just feel the need to caution you about looking for big HP. These cars can very reliable with 350AWHP or a little less. The car will be fun to drive and give you years of smiles. The 5mt can become the weak point over time.

 

Also don't get hung up on the HP number on the dyno, it's about how it feels on the street that count's.

I'm not touching this motor or turbo as long as they're both alive. A 200k mile turbo and EJ255 can only live so long though but they seem strong as it is now, as this car is bone stock and seems to have been taken care of.

If I were to upgrade the turbo in the future I've been eyeing a Twisted Motion 20g, which is basically the same thing - a decent rebuild and balance service for "ebay" turbos.

300-350 is more than plenty for a grocery getting winter car / secondary daily, my truck is about to go under the knife and it will make probably twice that on the bottle when I want to go fast

-Justin

I'd really recommend not messing with the intake on a car with a turboback exhaust. Boost creep is super common on Subarus with these modifications. You say you have an EWG uppipe though, so I guess you've at least got your wastegate figured out. I'd imagine that would solve your potential boost creep issues if you went through with putting all of this on.

 

For the intake, no, an later model year won't work quite right with it. If you wanted to go the route of re-tuning the car with a WRX/STi MAF, then go for it, but I'd just stick with what works on this car without adding more variables.

 

For a turbo inlet, I have a Perrin unit installed by the previous owner. It's been on for about 3 years now. No complaints here.

Oh, so your talking about the inlet to the turbo, I must have miss read the other post. Yes, at this age, you should replace that while your in the area. I went with a OEM inlet back in 2012.

 

I think Perrin makes a silicone turbo inlet but there is some small issue when putting it on a 2005-2006.

 

Again, both my cars have a panel air filter. I enjoy not having to buy a paper filter every year or so.

 

Also remember to clean the MAF sensor and IAT probe with MAF cleaner.

Sorry, I may have confused you guys lol. I was looking to replace both the turbo inlet and the intake attached to it, and was trying to clarify what the difference was between the WRX/LGT intake pipe. I think I have that clarified now.

If I went with something like a Perrin after-MAF, that shouldn't induce boost creep correct?

The EWG pipe I had from my project Forester because I was going to be using an eBay 20g on it and those IWG are notoriously horrible. I wasn't planning on putting it on the Outback, or at least not on the stock engine (I have the parts to build a forged short block should the stock engine give up, and I would use it then).

-Justin

after 15 years, finding a car with sll of its original equipment will be nearly impossible. The options usually sell cheap because every one has at least one set they don't use.

This. Even if the car came factory with some sort of floor mats or an extra key or cargo bay stuff, don't expect that stuff to still be there 15 years later.

For mats specifically, I would 100% recommend Weathertech floor trays as opposed to your standard mat.

-Justin

http://i.imgur.com/Y02kx.jpg

 

Figured I would make this so people can see exactly what is what.

 

1. Shift Rod (Do not know part number)

2. Shift Rod (Do not know part number)

3. 901000304 <=== Flange Bolts for subframe. Need Four. $3.75 each

4. 20501AE00A <=== Bumpstops

5. 901000304 <=== Flange Bolts for subframe. Need Four. $3.75 each

6. LCA bushing stud (Do not know part number)

7. LCA cover plate (Do not know part number)

8. 20540AE090 <== Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket LFT Side. $20.89

9. 20250AE04A <=== Rear Upper Control Arm Left: $77.00

10. 34170AG021 <== Steering Linkage U Joint. $140.00

11. 20250AE02A <=== Rear Upper Control Arm Right: $77.00

12. 20540AE080 <== Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket RT Side:$20.89

13.

14.

15. Rear Transmission horizontal crossmember (Dont know part number)

16. Front Subframe Bolts (Do not know part number)

17. Center Exhaust Heat Shield (Do not know part number)

18. Transmission Sub Frame (Do not know part number)

19. Drive Shaft (Do not know part number)

 

If someone wants to jump in with the names for the other parts and part numbers for what I don't know that would be great!!

Just a quick heads-up for people looking into doing this mod, and don't feel like reading through 19 pages like me. I cross-referenced side by side the Legacy GT wagon and Outback XT on OpposedForces to make my own list before stumbling upon this thread.

Bolts 16 are not needed for the front subframe. Same part number for both applications. Same with the bolts for the transmission crossmember, same part numbers. The only bolts that I found that were actually different were the ones for the rear subframe, numbers 3 and 5 in this image (listed twice for some reason).

I had originally found that the part numbers matched for bolt 14 control arm rear stud. However this is a newer part number and at least in 05 they were actually different. Not sure what year they switched over but might not be a bad idea to grab them just in case.

-Justin

Light side vs. dark side.

Nice Outback man. Here's my new-to-me 05 on Tein coilovers.

What grille is that? Pretty much exactly what I want to put on mine and I keep finding contradictory info on whether Legacy grilles fit or not lol

-Justin

Yup, definitely looks like a now-unused feed wire from a previous amp installation.

-Justin

Put that cash where it will do some good like a new Cat less up pipe before the cat in your stock one disintegrates and blows your turbo and/or motor

Yes, that is one of the first things I intend to do. Also in my stash of random Subaru parts is a Tomei header. I might look to trade the Grimmspeed EWG up pipe I have for it (again, from the Forester lol) for a non-EWG 3 bolt up pipe to match. The stock header is looking pretty crusty from that New England life, but the car itself is very surprisingly clean.

-Justin

You don't need a intake. Yours is fine. Put your money somewhere else.

 

Dose the car have a Cobb AP?

 

I saw your other post about the Spec 2 clutch. That clutch will only last about 60,000 miles, Get a Spec 2+ for these cars. That's what Spec recommends.

I know I don't "need" it, but I figured I might as well look to see if I can score one at a discount before I spend $60 on a drop in air filter lol. Mostly just want to get rid of the ugly accordion pipe not gonna lie. And I will have the intake off to install the TGVs so I might as well do that inlet while it's off already.

As for the clutch, it's a basically brand new ACT stage 2 clutch/pressure plate on a brand new ACT streetlite flywheel. The car doesn't need it right at this moment but I have these just laying around from my (now defunct) NA/T project Forester.

Obviously I will need to grab an accessport before I get it tuned, yes. I'm not going to put ANY of this stuff on until I have that and am ready to bring it to the tuner.

-Justin

Nice Outback! Recently picked mine up, also for the sum of $2500

Mine came lowered on Tein coilovers and with a plethora of goodies in the back including a Koyorad, headers, downpipe, TGV deletes, and a GFB BPV ready to install. Hoping to throw all those on at the end of the summer and get it tuned for a nice reliable winter car / second daily for when my truck gets torn apart for its new transplant.

Might even scavenge the ACT StreetLite flywheel and Stage 2 clutch I have in my Forester.

-Justin

God damn that is a nice wagon. Love the build man, great job, hope to see more of it with the new build.

-Justin

Subscribed as well. Been thinking a custom "sleeper" gauge or two would be cool, retaining the ability to cover it up when the car is parked or they're not in use.

-Justin

Can't seem to find out what is the actual difference between the 05 LGT and 08-14 Cobb SF intake. The intakes themselves are different part numbers, but the box is the same for both fitments.

Mostly asking because I'm looking to snag one off the Marketplace or Craigslist and wondering if the WRX/STI/FXT intake would fit up the same.

Looking to get my new-to-me 05 OBXT tuned for longevity and want to throw on a couple generic upgrades (car came with headers, downpipe, TGV deletes, and a GFB BPV ready to install) before I bring it in. Scouring marketplace for an intake and turbo inlet to that list.

-Justin

My 05 OBXT came with "custom" muffler deletes. They just chopped off the flanges and welded some (mismatched size lol) ~2.5" pipe to the stock y pipes. It honestly sounds just fine for my likings. I drive a pretty loud v8 truck as a daily and hate to hear the obnoxiously loud newer WRXs/STIs and this come nowhere near that sound level but still enjoyable.

-Justin