TorqueLegend

Purchased this Kit from another member and my Legacy died before I could install. below for original ad, just asking what I paid for it.

Selling an unused JDM dual-zone HVAC unit, faceplate adapter, JDM hazard switch (used), i88 & i85 harness adapters and the Subaru antenna adapter from ae64.com, and a 14-pin OEM adapter harness. None of these items have been installed, other than the JDM hazard switch which was pulled from a car (has some wear on the white paint).

The harness and antenna adapters are from David at ae64.com, and the JDM parts sourced elsewhere. I am not certain the i85 harness includes steering-wheel control wires. It has 3 wires, which I believe is only for AUX port functionality. I'm pretty sure I did not request SWC functionality when I ordered it. I know his newer i85 harnesses always include SWC, but I think I bought mine before he started doing that.

Asking price is $400 shipped in USA. (Inquire with me for Canada, as I'm not sure what the additional postage would be).

This might be a dumb questions but i'm going to fire away anyway... are the left and right CVs the same part# if we are talking about the front specifically? 

I received this item and its in great shape and as described. Appreciate it Ax!

Could try to use a different brand OBD. 

If you actually want to sell it, post it for $6K and take $5K when its offered.

without actually seeing it, just start at $5K and see what happens.

somewhat off topic but Outback Motorsports in California- Is that shop in Rancho Cucamonga? Good experience with them? don't see too much info online. I'm in socal always in search of a quality shop.

nice looking whip- can you let me know what the final sale price was once it is confirmed?

On 3/22/2022 at 3:11 PM, sleipnir6 said:

Hey all, with the ok from JmP6889928 and SBT I cobbled everyone's recommendations so far into a Google Map. Hope this makes it easier to sift through and find a shop if you're ever in need of services.

 

https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1Aoywm-JiHpdw24a8gb1kq5yakisM9UxH&usp=sharing

 

I'll update as more recommendations roll in.

Appreciate you doing this. Still no reputable shops in Southern CA? I've heard of Ubersport and Rally Sport. Ubersport tried to tell me I needed a 5K head gasket job, 2 years and 10K miles later I still definitely don't. Rally Sport I have no experience dealing with. Anyone have another rec?

Cobb would rather bend the knee than get banned from selling all products in CA.

Nice. I found that my Nameless Muffler delete isn't quite as loud after a few hundred miles of being broken in.

2 bad its been in 2 separate accidents, front and rear collisions. That scares me more than the bolts.

I live in CA but my leggy originated in Canada. It passes CA emissions however if you've ever had cat work done in another state/country then your diagnostic check can show up as "Tampered" meaning simply, "not stock".

 

If you ever run into this issue while trying to pass smog, simply provide the EO number for the cat that was installed (all CA Carb Compliant Cats have an EO#). If you're like me and have no idea what the EO# for your cat is, then you can just provide a random EO#. I used EO# D-193-102 from the magna flow website and that was enough to pass smog.

 

I think a lot of cats meet the state requirement in terms of the emission standard, but are not certified CA carb compliant because its an expensive process, so many parts manufactures would rather just focus on the new models and products that work in the rest of the country.

 

So, as long as your emissions are in line, you can do pass smog with this work around.

regardless smoothing it out with adhesive filler sounds like the best bet to me. It works well on bumpers and it's probably what a custom body shop would before charging you out the ass.

Have you considered dropping the bumper, inspecting the rubber part and if its really permanently on there you could possibly grind or sand down down the black rubber bumps a little and then fill in with a few layers of adhesive filler.

 

Something like this would prob work:

 

Once it's sanded again to be even a paint shop can prob finish it off for a few hundred.

Hey I'm interested in your Wagon rack. are the tower clips included or needed?

 

Edit, meant to send as DM, moving conversation to DM.

Lest anyone be confused by this random post, the rack in question is for a '12-'14 sedan. Does NOT fit a BL.

 

Anyone know if this does or doesn't fit? I've got an 06 wagon here and its got the rails on the side, would love a cheaper alternative to a Thule setup that doesn't look bad. trying to find something that is a confirmed fit is a real bitch.

awesome ride. It's crazy to me that you got this for just around $16K (USD) landed and it only has 50K Miles on it. I would imagine importing a similar find to USA would be more expensive. Even pre-covid-logistical-fiasco.

Well the good news is that after replacing the throttle body, PVC, swapping in a new turbo (OEM I had laying around with roughly 10K miles), timing belt, tensioner, water pump and a bunch of hoses and gaskets, she is running very, very smoothly. I also installed a Nameless Muffler delete and it sounds amazing. Ordered the nameless in June and it finally arrived in November.

 

I've been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to purchase a second commuter car, and when that deal is done in a few weeks, I will throw the wagon on blocks and begin to replace the suspension (all control arms and bushing, will add Koni yellows with Epic Springs). its going to be a real bitch considering the condition of the bolts down there, but once it's replaced I'll be able to really start having fun. I'll also throw on some bigger breaks with the powder coated calipers and likely replace everything around the hub area. Finally, I'll do the double din with a review camera etc.

 

I will probably start a build thread at that time, to this point I've replaced the clutch and flywheel, driver window actuator and buttons, and the above mentioned and she is running like a dream. I've already purchased the springs, and most of the bushings, so only need the Konis and a quick tune up on my air wrench and I'll be ready to rock.

In closing mechanic said my throttle body is the culprit. Cost me a cool $2Gs for the throttle body, labor and several other maintenance items.. Can't wait to find out what the next 2K fix will be.

For what it's worth my first thought when I started having issues was the PCV. I'm hoping that's it or the injectors. Should have more info by Friday- at a standstill as I wait on delivery of feedline and gaskets.

Not a significant amount of oil lose. When I change the oil I more or less fill up the container (5qts) and I usually change it every 5k or less. I prob loose well under .5 qt per 5k. The oil

Is pretty black when I drain it out tho and my exhaust pipes are a little blackened at the tips as well.

Ya I got lucky. Aside from the stalling and weird sound the engine still runs strong. Probably a result of me babying it 80% of the time I drive it.

 

I've cleaned the MAF before and I looked at it with the mechanic the first time I brought it in. Wouldn't hurt to reset ECU and bring it up I suppose. - I'll have to check the records to confirm tensioner was changed but timing belt was done by previous owner so figure that was too. CV grease actually makes sense for the source of smoke. I'll run these things by and I'll have to do a little more digging- I appreciate the feedback.

Hey all- my 06 5MT GT (bone stock) is having an issue in which it is randomly stalling as I come to a stop, usually in second gear around 20mph or slower. I took it in and was told the tensioner was bad and timing belt shredded, those were changed along with the water pump. Well sure enough I take it to get new tires today and it stalls out as I stop at a sign sign. So, I've taken it back in. One interesting thing is it stalls out more often when my AC is on, however the problem happens when AC is off too.

 

Another related symptom that started around the same time is a sound that seems like it's coming from the turbo, not sure if it's metal on metal or a vacuum leak but it's def coming from the turbo, not super loud but noticeable and only so when hitting boost.

 

My mechanic is a good dude I trust him, said he previously did compression test and smoke test and both yielded good engine/ no leaks. Now I've brought it back with a new PCV and a replacement stock turbo and am going to have him try replace those. I also asked him to check the injectors, they might be old. The coil packs/plugs were changed when I bought the car prob 10k miles ago and I did it myself so I know they were done correctly and should still be good, I'm sure he would have seen if something was out of wack there when he did the compression test. Otherwise it sounds like he's at a bit of a loss.

 

There is also infrequent smoke that rolls up through my hood vent, and a burning smell that occasionally rears it's head. I usually chock this up to me being a Moron and the car having a testy clutch (also changed less than 5k miles ago) but possibly another sign the Turbo go bye bye?

 

Any one have any ideas? What could cause my tensioner to fail and shred my timing belt? Could my turbo be blown and causing all these issues? All roads point to vacuum leak but doesn't seem like there is one per smoke test. Any help is appreciated thank you!!

my GF always tells not to get down on myself because size isn't all that matters. That said you gotta start somewhere! I could be game details depending and assuming my car is running is running at the time

 

It's a solid idea tho