crjohnson

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=36711 I took some photos of the tips on a sedan and wagon 3.0r spec.b. I think these will be very similar (if not the same) and standard legacy gt mufflers and tips?

DBA43050S-10 are 340x30mm, same height as normal subaru 5x100 rotors and dual stud pattern (5x100 + 5x114). Can you guys get them in the US? I reckon it could be done even with bolting the ATS caliper in the normal spot. You MAY need to grind some of the inside of the caliper out and I'm not sure there woud be much of a benefit anyway? I would look pretty sweet thats about it haha. I ended up just sticking with 326mm rotors, they'll be plenty to get me through the macca's drive through!

hey guys, has anyone here looked at using 340mm sti rotors with the ats brembo's? I drew up the parts in 3D and the 340mm rotor looks like it would use up more of the pads (zero overhang).

Mine is very similar to that video, but without the weird sound.

Hi guys, I have been driving my SpecB 3.0r 6mt converted wagon for a while now without issue but when I change gears (especially when driving hard) the engine's revs seem to 'hang' for a brief period before dropping. I can usually be in the next gear and ready to release the clutch before the revs have dropped to a reasonable or matched level, which can be annoying as it jerks the car around. Has anybody experienced this? I have always wondered if it is related to the C15 auto/man ID wire and pin C14. I originally connected C15 to C14 bt this caused a short ciruit error. So I connected C15 to a chassis ground point, no errors, off I went. I just tried disconnecting the C15 wire from the chassis and notice zero difference to how to car/engine behaves. I would have thought something would change?? FYI all of my conversion parts were from a 2007 specB, 3.0r 6mt car. So the ECU is correct. I did not do the full dash wiring loom swap too, I simply added the necessary wires and bypassed the inhibitors etc. See my post here for what I did: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6013425&postcount=2469

Anybody had any luck with these yet? Also does anyone know what thread the front caliper hose/line takes?

Anybody had any luck with these yet? I have been side tracked with a few other projects but was looking into master cylinders the other night. It sounds as though we would need to chance to a 1 1/16" STI master cylinder?

Hey Neal have you had your set running on your car at all or waiting to use the production parts?

Hey guys, I was toying with the idea of modifying the 17Z caliper to a radial mount style, or even redrilling the axial mount holes. Looks like these guys are already doing it for porsches: https://www.goingsuperfast.com/Brake.html

Hey Rcnesneg awesome work with the auto ecu and evtv thing! How does it drive? I wonder how much the ecu maps are different between auto and manual ecu's? My manual 3.0r ecu is a little annoying when changing gears. If you give it some stick, I can pretty much change into the next gear and be ready to let the clutch out, before the engine starts to drop in revs. So the engine is always at a much higher RPM than the next gear (when driving hard..) . I've even heard the tyres chirp and traction light come on when hardshifting

Does anyone here know if the Big Red seal kits are any good? I've never heard of them and genuine kits are looking hard (and expensive) to get.. Cheers

Hey guys small update. After a number of issues where I had to restart the nexus, something made me think about the power turning on-off-on when starting the engine and if this screwed up the nexus. I changed the power supply from the 12v accessory plug in the console to the "headlight washer" which is on during starting and normal running, off when the key is on the first click. So far this is working great, no issues, fingers crossed it keeps going! You'll have to check which fuse this is on your cars or check with a voltmeter. Goodluck!

Cheers Neal, i only wondered as I measured up a gen4 front hub and my cad model looks a bit different to yours. Tempted to go 340mm rotor and redrill the holes in the caliper. I'd move them closer together, then have an adapter bracket etc.

Does anybody know if you can squeeze 340mm diameter rotors into 17Z calipers? DBA 43050 are 340mm, 5x100 and 5x112, same as 326mm STI rotors but bigger. Might help with adapting these caliper to the stock hubs by spacing the caliper out a litte further.

Hey Neal Cassidy how thick a spacer were you thinking you will need? I've been looking into this using legacy 18x7" +55 wheels and it looks like it will need around 1" of spacing to stop the caliper hitting the wheel. Not looking good for me at the moment, hopefully I have measured something wrong! Edit: Well I didn't measure anything wrong, looks like those wheels DO need a spacer around 25mm thick for normal STI brembo's. Damn it!

Pretty keen to see how these go on my gen4 liberty/legacy spec B soon!

Yea I think I need to try that next. I actually had it working last night without the hub plugged in. BUT it would discharge like >1.5% per hour. Got home and switched the car off etc. Plugged in the hub this morning, now it says USB not connected. Tried multiple times to plug it in in the correct order etc, nothing still... Might be worth going to an android head unit of some sort soon.

And now it stopped working... This is the bit that frustrates the hell out of me! It was working great, next minute it give is the "error reading from usb/otg: attempt to invoke virtual etc etc". Now I can't get it to reconnect at all, says its charging though nothing is plugged in, the list goes on. I have another OTG cable on its way from amazon, maybe that might help. Otherwise I think I need to remove the tactrix and try something else? FYI my nexus is running 6.0.1 android which I believe is the marshmellow version which potentially gives issues? EDIT: I just saw on the BTSSM thread that the port in the hub which you plug the tactrix into can affect things, it might need to be in the last position or something. I have downloaded and OTG app the check things later on. Edit 2: New cable just arrived, still the same issue. I also read that the use port on the tactrix can fail, time to try a new OBD reader!

Well strangely enough, it started working pretty well! I think the biggest thing people don't realise is the order in which you plug you OTG in. Must be plugged into the power supply first, then slave, then N7 right? I also bought an "ORICO 4 Port USB3.0 Desktop HUB" which has an extra micro usb port for power supply. My OTG cable was not a Y type cable (but it also seemed to work reliably compared to the cheap Y cables I tried, so I bought a "USB 3.0 Cable Dual Power Charge Cables Y Adapter Male to Female Cord" off ebay. These cables and my existing power supply give up to 8-900mA charge rate so far PLUS my discharge problems look to have disappeared. This morning showed 63hrs off time for11% loss. 0.17% per hour seems pretty good. Now I just have to make BTSSM more reliable. I drove to the fuel station, turned the car back on and got a "usb virtual something something" error..

Hey mate did you happen to get your setup to work? I have a nexus 7 (2nd gen) and a tactrix 2.0, it is driving me insane... It worked for a little while, now it just sucks.. BTSSM and timur's rom worked great at the start, it would connect properly, shut down when the car turned off etc. BUT it would discharge about like 5% per hour if i left the tactrix usb cable plugged in. Without the tactrix it would be <1% per hour no worries. Now days, it wont charge or recognise that there's plenty of power avaiable to charge whilst being connected to the tactrix. Half the time it wont open btssm properly or go to sleep when the car turns off. I've tried the 120k resistor trick, made my own OTG cable with thicker wire (could get over 1000mah charge rate), tried a 4 port USB hub (though it was a very cheap unit). NOTHING seems to work anymore. I hope you have had better luck than me!

Hey guys well I went ahead and did the conversion, all is good and running perfect. This was an Aussie MY08, spec B, h6 wagon, 5eat to 6mt conversion. No harness swap, I feel like this was far less work than pulling the entire dash and HVAC system out! Here are my notes on the wiring: - get an accurate copy of the FSM for your car! - Bypass the inhibitor relay shown in ST(06)-01. I made small wire approx. 50mm long with 2 male, flat blade terminals on each end. Plugged it into poles 3 and 4. Leave the other terminals in the relay plug empty. Cover with electrical tape. The relay is located up behind the fuse box to the right of the steering wheel. - I ran 2 x 2core wires from the gearbox, through the firewall and to the ecu (neutral safety switch) and to the back-up light relay. - Wire in the back-up/reverse light as per BACK/L(R )-01 in the FSM. The reverse wires only need 2 male flat blade terminals and to be plugged into poles 3 and 4 on the relay plug. Leave the other terminals in the relay plug empty. Cover with electrical tape - Wire in the neutral safety switch to C31 on the ECU (see page E/G(RH6)-12 in FSM). I cut the existing C31 wire, joined the NSS to the ECU side of that wire, then joined the other NSS wire to the B122 joint connector. I spliced into 1 wire in that joint connector and joined the NSS wire to that. The other end of the C31 wire that you cut just gets taped up. - Wire in the clutch as per E/G(RH6)-05. I ran a 2 core wire from the clutch pedal/switch across to the ECU, then cut the C25 wire (which exists in the auto loom), joined clutch wires to that. - Add a pin and wire to C15 on the ECU and ground this to the chassis. This is the auto/manual ID wire for the ECU. The diagrams I had showed this joining with C14 which I originally did but this caused a bunch of "circuit high" faults which all pointed to a short circuit somewhere. Ground this to the chassis or ECU mounts as I did. - Remove the PV-IGN relay, I don't really know what this does, looks like some sort of power supply to the TCM. Plug in your BUI, cluster, ECU, Key barrel assembly for the manual version. To remove the key barrel, use a sharp cold-chisel and gently hammer the security bolts off (in clockwise direction), replace with M8 screws. Unplug the TCM (hide those plugs somewhere up in the dash), tape up the 2 x auto trans plugs in the engine bay (you only need the oxy sensors plugs). Off you go! I also used a 21200AA072 thermostat, these open and are fully open 4degrees lower than the standard h6 thermostat. I can definitely see lower temps on the BTSSM gauges. See the link below for more info: https://legacygt.com...postcount=14760

Do you mean how to measure the stretch when torquing them up correctly? You need a stretch gauge or 1 of those tools you stick a dial indicator in.

Hey guys, anybody have any thoughts on this? I've also found that the BIU should go straight into the wagon without any issues.

Hi guys, Awesome info in this thread so far, though maybe too much for me to remember at the time of this post! I have a 2008 spec b, h6, 5eat wagon (aussie version) which I am going to attempt to convert to a 6mt. I am 100% fine with all mechincal aspects (including ABS unit swap) and lengthening the gearbox crossmember etc. I'm only interested in your thoughts on the wiring and what I have found from looking over wiring diagrams so far. I know the manual map/ecu program can be loaded into the auto ecu system but am not confident in being able to do that at this stage. I have the ecu, cluster, BIU all from a doner car which the gearbox came from, what I am hoping to do is swap these into the auto wagon, take out the TCU and add/remove a few wires for the clutch etc (putting it simply haha). Things that I have noted are: Engine ECU wiring: - Remove TCU and inhibitor relay. Bridge the switching wire on the inhibitor relay plug. - Wire in the neutral safety switch to C31 on the ECU - check that this wire connects to the joint connector which also connects to the cruise control switch and C6 on ecu - Add clutch switch to C25 on ecu - this wire should already exist on the auto loom - all other ecu inputs look identical between auto and manual cars Starter System: - Disconnect any wire going into C31 on the manual ecu - All ECU pins and wires look the same between auto and manual Back-up lighting: - Remove auto back-up light relay - possibly connect the 6mt back up light switch to these wires. CANBUS system: - unknown if any errors will be thrown provided the above are wired correctly and TCU is missing Body Integrated unit: - Swap over the key barrel from the donor car, will then use keys from that car, swap over the key barrel in door to suit. - unknown yet if anything else needs to be done other than swapping the doner BUI into the wagon. Grounds: - pay close attention to all of these, make sure I'm not missing any! Interested in your thoughts and if anyone has actually done the conversion this way. Cheers!