Jharr92

For those who are wondering what the semi-finished product looks like. Just need to color match the panels. Considering a gloss black or the original color

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Is this you? Excellent content man, I plan on undertaking this down the road. I'm waiting for Kenwood's floating displays to come out.

That’s not me lol. I do follow that guys channel though and I love his subie content. My channel is JH Subaru repairs and mods. The camera work on mine is kind of garbage because I used my cellphone so the video is probably best watched in the phone app. I documented my wiring process and how to match wires just a little more in-depth than rp garage and also transplanted a 2008-2009 bulkhead pigtail from a pull and pay so the steering wheel harnesses behind the airbag would be plug and play into a 2008-2009 legacy clock spring also taken from the pull and pay. I also swapped in a 2008 dash beam and steering column though bc I did a paddle shifter install on my automatic and didn’t want to trim the column covers to get them to fit. That’s definitely not a requirement if you just swap out the clock spring with a 2008 but you will need to cut a pigtail from a junkyard car and solder it into the existing bulkhead wiring that runs to the old clock spring. This is what I’m talking about in the picture. This one is for a similar setup in Denver. You can see that much of the pigtail has been extended to run along the bulkhead and into various existing wires such as illumination, steering wheel control module, and ground. Then the remaining shorter wires are soldered into the existing cruise control and horn wires under the steering column. Steering wheels with resistance-controlled CC, audio controls, horn wire, and phone/BT controls (not to mention possibly a Sport sharp mode) have too many wires for the 8 pins of the 2005 clock spring I believe. 2008-2009 clock spring has 14 pins total and my setup uses 11 of those pins total. I believe the top plug consists of 3cruise wires, 4 audio control wires, and 1 horn wire, and the bottom plug is 3 phone/BT control wires.

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So I got the audio controls for the 2013 STI steering wheel to work on my 2005 outback XT and threw a video on YouTube. It’s recorded on a phone so the video format is kind of weird but if anyone has questions on getting the controls to work with an aftermarket jdm double din kit and aftermarket head unit, just hit me up. The hardest part isn’t really the wiring. It’s retrofitting the dash with column, beam and 2008-2009 legacy or 2008-2014 Impreza clock spring and combo switch. The YouTube channel is JH Subaru mods and repairs.

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I ended up going a different route. Decided to get an 06 spec b steering wheel, and just use the maestro SW kit for my pioneer mvh1400nex (which looks fantastic in the jdm climate control unit I might add). The maestro module allows manual programming for 2 functions per button, so I'm just using the existing buttons for my Bluetooth controls.

You think you could post a picture? I’ve been looking for a buttonless screen that fits well in the jdm cutout

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So has anyone successfully used the 08+ roll connector to make the phone buttons work? I'm in the middle of my steering wheel swap right now, and I would like to use all of the buttons that came on my 08 spec B wheel. My car is an 05 LGT MT.

 

Wondering if I could swap to an 08 roll connector and use the 08 turn signal control as well?

 

I think thats what youre saying Jharr92?

 

And if I keep the Si control button maybe i can hook that into my aftermarket stereo steering wheel control interface for one more programed button

I used the 2008 roll connector and turn signal switch on my 05. But I was bored during quarantine so I also swapped out the 2005 column and dash beam for the 08-09 so I could get a better column covers fit for my paddle shifters. I’m still waiting for my jdm stereo kit to come in from Japan. It’s taking forever due to the pandemic. Everything else works fine now but I can’t get audio control functionality until I get an aftermarket stereo in there to see if I can get the Bluetooth buttons to function. I’d imagine as long as the aswc-1 is fully functional that I should be able to get the Bluetooth buttons to work. And the aswc-1 allows for manual programming so if you don’t have the s-drive function you should be able to program it for something else. If you do have S-drive, I’m not sure what that wiring would look like. I know the paddle shifter wires run in parallel with the shift lever and terminated at some micro switches next to the shifter so maybe the S-drive could be tapped into the center console control in a similar fashion.

So sticking with the older roll connector will work as long as you’re just planning on doing audio controls and cruise on the steering wheel. The phone controls throw a kink because you have to sacrifice illumination to run all 3 swc wires through the roll connector.

Paddles fit if you upgrade the roll connector, combo and parking signal switch plate, turn signal switch (2005-2007 turn signal return trigger is too short for the white combo plate behind the roll connector so it doesn’t auto cancel), the column covers, and preferably the kick panel. I also picked up the 2008+ tilt lever so I can hopefully retrofit that and avoid chopping up the lower column.

Doing the 2008+ roll connector means you might have to get to a pull n pay and cut the B68 connector from a 2008+ bulkhead so you can splice it to your own 8-wire harness section just behind your stock B68. I left a few inches of wire when I cut one from a junkyard 2009 leggy so I could solder in-line joints. An easier and equally effective solder method is the solder seal connectors.

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I get that. I just wanted to get a resource out there with all the pinouts and diagrams. I’m currently in the middle of re-pinning the 2008+ roll connector since I got my hands on the 2008+ b68 connector which mates up to the ST1 off the roll connector.

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Will you upload the pdf directly? Something about a Google drive link from a new member with 3 posts screams phishing. Thanks.

It’s a 12 page pdf and growing. I’m not sure it would be beneficial to upload the entire thing on here. I’m also a new member because although I’ve done everything from an engine build to upgrading the interior with paddle shifters and sti audio control, I find forums to be rather clumsy and “early 2000-ish in their format so I haven’t bothered. If you’d like, you can join outback xteam on Facebook and find my same pdf there with no complaints of phishing in any of the comments

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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ypT3pBnqUf73dqxB7gzoU4xnALwa9vgL/view?usp=sharing

I made a pdf based on previous members experiences and the fsm. Took time to research pin outs and trace wire pathways from the wheel to the bulkhead