ji126652

12 hours ago, MoleMan said:

You can't just replace the filter.  You need to replace the entire assembly at least that's what I needed to do.  

If the car is not having any issues then why change it?

I have more then 200k on my daily fuel filter and pump fyi.

By "change the filter" I mean change part 42072AJ060, the top half of the fuel pump assembly.  I.E. do this: 

The maintenance schedule says to change it after 60k, and it seems a clogged fuel filter can cause bunch of issues that might not present itself as just a clogged fuel filter (for example I've heard these can case  "ninja cylinder misfires").  So to me the issue of to do or not to do is how much of a PITA/how easy it is to break stuff on this job.  

Hi All,

Questions about changing the fuel filter.  I have 123k miles so might as well change it.  I'm pretty clear on how to do it and what it involves (basically replace 42072AJ060 and 42025SC000).  Two questions

1) how easy is it to damage the float, or to break the tabs? 

2) Should I replace the pump itself at this mileage? What about the whole assembly (42021AJ150)?  Or simply replace the "filter"  (42072AJ060) like I guess most people do?  The pump seems fine to me.  Any particular aftermarket type of pumps or assemblies people like? 

I believe it is variable displacement, so it isn't just a clutch, well I guess technically it is a wobble plate clutch I believe. The factory service manual has a whole troubleshooting section for the hvac unit. You can find all your questions answered there.

I looked and it says there's a self diagnostic HVAC mode, but I don't even have all the buttons to do it, so I guess it's not for my 2012 Legacy model?

Every other diagnostic seems to require the Subaru Select Monitor... Would something like BTSSM be able to replace that for getting all the diagnostic codes (DTC)?

Actually it does explicitly say to check the refrigerant pressure if cold air stops blowing (which is what happens in my car), and the instructions for that seem easy enough. I've also read that the O-rings suck and they commonly go bad, causing a leak.

Anyone know of a decent, relatively inexpensive set of manifold gauges to check this? I'm NOT looking to possibly fix this as a DIY job (i'll go to a mechanic for that), but it'd give me a piece of mind to know whether the pressure is so low that the compressor isn't kicking in...

Sorry I have no idea, but any particular reason you are going into that? I think a refrigerant pressure gauge will give you a lot of info on where the problem is.

 

What electronics does the compressor have besides the clutch? Is it a variable displacement unit?

I think just the clutch, so yea that's all I'd want to check by doing this.

Dumb question here, but if I do a manifold gauge pressure check (following the service manuals instructions), then I don't need the system purged right? In other words, no air/contaminants are introduced?

My AC isn't working on my 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i, so I want to run test (delivery) mode to see that the electronics in the compressor is working. I know how to do this, but when turning test mode off, is it as simple as turn the key off and then disconnect the green cables? Is there any reprogramming needed?

Also, I'm confused as to where the AC relay is, or if there even is one. In the fuse box, it says there should be an AC relay, but looking, there's nothing there, nor is there even metal connectors for a relay... (I tried uploading pictures but it won't let me).

Looking at the repair manual, it looks like there is only an AC compressor fuse? Is this correct?

You're far less likely to damage the radiator when you remove all of the things.

This makes sense, particularly since on the 3.6R the shroud is one unit as displayed in the picture, which looks annoying (= as you say, might damage the radiator) to take out without removing the upper hoses.

Wait wait, you have a 2.5i. The radiator setup is different, that part is for a 3.6R. On the 2.5i, the fan motors are arranged differently, but still worth checking for plug corrosion.

 

Yea that makes more sense. No reason not to just unplug the damn thing and look and clean it a bit...

Not sure on the removal question, but the first thing I'd recommend doing is checking all of the plugs on the fan control module (right under the intake snorkel, attached to the corner of the fanshroud). Both of my fans quite working last year, and I tried. EVERYTHING. possible to get them running, and all it ended up being was some corrosion on one of the contacts of the main fan control plug. I scrapped the corrosion off, and they instantly started working again.

 

this thing

Thanks! I'll try that! I live in Albany NY, so the corrosion thing is definite possible!

Seems like both fans crapped out and aren't running (Subaru Legacy 2012 2.5i, 104k miles). I will do diagnostics soon to see what's up, but in the meantime had a question about removing the fans.

Just looking in, it looks like I can take out the air intake snorkle, take out the coolant reservoir, and basically have enough room to take the condenser fan shroud, then pull out slightly/move over the radiator fan shroud (since the upper radiator hose is in the way.)

Why then do most videos/the service manual drain the coolant, remove hoses, and pull the two fan units from the bottom (or from the top, removing the upper hose, as per the service manual, see attached)?

Is there something I'm missing here? This looks nothing as bad as say, a spark plug change (which didn't require me to do anything difficult really...)

Yup - it's due! About right for mileage and into "overtime" for time. (I'd do belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, thermostat, and plugs - also replace the serpentine belt since it has to come off to get the timing belt)

I'd just buy the parts and change everything out as it's due - at 75k miles a few months ago, the belt on mine definitely looked tired (they don't really "fray" per se - there was definitely wear on the teeth, though - idlers were still in decent condition (no real play) but the tensioner was definitely weeping fluid)

Thanks, will do!

Hi Everyone,

 

2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i with 97,500 miles.

 

For only two days, when I started my car up, I heard a low rattling noise for just a minute or two when I hit the accelerator, kind of like in the first 5 seconds of

but maybe a little lower. After this it went completely away

 

After the second day I checked my oil dipstick and it was low so I topped it off with a quart, and now when I check it cold it's on the "high" end of the dipstick.

 

Ever since doing this, I haven't noticed the noise even at a cold start before the car warms up, nor have I noticed any other noises. Any thought on what's up? It seems probably like an engine issue, and I'm guessing a timing tensioner issue, since they are (I think) oil pressurized (the logic being, adding more oil seemed to immediately fix the problem.)

 

I definitely plan to get this checked out soon, but I won't be able to do this for another few days. I guess at 97,500 miles, I should just do an entire timing belt kit replacement!?

 

Maybe I should check the timing belt ASAP before driving it to make sure it's OK and that the belt isn't stretched or frayed (looking through the viewing hole on the left side/taking off the timing cover on the right.)

 

Thanks!

Just an update, I heard the noise again for a very brief moment after the car was driven for a while, but ONLY when I went in reverse, which now makes me wonder if the issue is the CVT (considering for my 2012 Subaru and I'm guessing other Subarus there was an extended 100k/10 year warranty issued.)

Is the alternator giving you signs of end of life? Not many of us just replace parts for the sake of doing so. If you are dealing with charging issues, etc then yes.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I forgot to mention that there is a constant "whizzing" sound coming from the alternator, kind of like a loud bug, rather than a "grinding" noise. I've read somewhere that this is normal? It just has me worried a bit.

Edit: disregard, thought the engine was FB25 and realised that 2012 was still ej25.

Yup, EJ253 for my 2.5i

2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i here with 97,500 miles.

I've read that it's never a bad idea to replace an alternator at around 100k miles, but I've also read here that Subaru alternators can last "a very, very long time."

Thoughts? Also I've read on this forum that Duralast are really good alternators, but they don't make new ones for my Subaru. Any thoughts on the next best kind? Or get remanufactured?

Lastly any thoughts on when the Crank Pulley should be replaced? Should I just wait for the tell-tale signs of the pulley (or related engine parts) to go bad, like misfiring or rattling noises or vibrations?

Thanks!

Hi Everyone,

2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i with 97,500 miles.

For only two days, when I started my car up, I heard a low rattling noise for just a minute or two when I hit the accelerator, kind of like in the first 5 seconds of

After the second day I checked my oil dipstick and it was low so I topped it off with a quart, and now when I check it cold it's on the "high" end of the dipstick.

Ever since doing this, I haven't noticed the noise even at a cold start before the car warms up, nor have I noticed any other noises. Any thought on what's up? It seems probably like an engine issue, and I'm guessing a timing tensioner issue, since they are (I think) oil pressurized (the logic being, adding more oil seemed to immediately fix the problem.)

I definitely plan to get this checked out soon, but I won't be able to do this for another few days. I guess at 97,500 miles, I should just do an entire timing belt kit replacement!?

Maybe I should check the timing belt ASAP before driving it to make sure it's OK and that the belt isn't stretched or frayed (looking through the viewing hole on the left side/taking off the timing cover on the right.)

Thanks!

2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i owner here. The maintenance manual says to "inspect" the differential oil every 30k miles. How often should this actually be changed!?

I know it's an easy job but I don't really have a good place to do it at the moment so waiting could save me some money (77K miles on it, about 8 years old.)

Removing the fan(s) would definitely be a good call- like MarcoLGT said, it's 2 10mm nuts up top, an electrical connector, then tip/lift/wiggle/jiggle until it comes out. Buys you another 1.5-2" of clearance (and could save you from potato-peeling a chunk of skin off the back of your hand, ask me how I know that one...), although you might want to put a sheet of cardboard or something in there to protect the radiator from accidental bumps.

Dumb question, but I don't see how it's even possible to peel off a chunk of skin since the fan is plastic and obviously not running. I guess it is still quite sharp? I'm not asking just because, nor am I questioning taking out the radiator fan (which I'll do if my extensions don't fit well since it is rather easy), but I'm asking mainly to avoid doing it myself!

Thanks for the replies. It's a 2012 Legacy 2.5i, and yea sorry I meant the serpentine belt (the service manual calls it a V-Belt.)

You can't see the left bolt, but I was able to stick my head in there after taking out the air intake and have a good feel for where it is. Then again, I still have trouble changing out headlights blind in my Subaru (particularly getting the dust cap on right)...

As for "just be very careful," I'm not sure how careful I can be, in the sense that I have to push the radiator hose out of the way to get to the bolts. I mean I can do this slowly and push the hose with my extension just enough to get to the bolts... Is that what is meant by "do this carefully?" Is this what shops do?

Hello,

I want to replace the Vbelt tensioner (and vbelt/idler pully) and have two questions.

1) I have a decent torque wrench, and I checked that it's accurate (using a luggage scale). I assume this will be accurate enough when tightening the tensioner bolts (and the idler pully bolts, which I'm also replacing) according to Subaru's torque specs?

2) The upper radiator hose is basically in the way of the tensioner bolts, but I can get my ratchet and torque wrench on them if I basically shove the hose out of the way a good inch or so. I presume there is no harm in doing this?

Is there an easier way to get to the tensioner bolts?! The vbelt and idler pully are very easy to replace and get to, on the other hand.

Thanks!

Josh