GFINE

so just a thought and an update to my original post...

 

There are times when I am using my Satellite Radio (XM Sirrus) and I am listen with no blockages or obstructions or underground- just the wide open road and my signal goes out for a second or 2.

 

The dealership said everything was fine because the antenna and satellite radio and "other" features were working normally.

 

Could it actually be my antenna and not the head unit?

Hello Folks- Happy Pre-July 4th.

 

I took my 2013 Subaru Legacy my local dealership yesterday AM regarding my Navi not working. I get the looking for GPS message as well as the squiring satellites message on my Navi screen.

 

Dealership says that the Antenna is operating as designed as Satellite and other features are working. The dealership is suggesting to remove the Navi/Radio unit and send it out for repair.

 

That would be 2-3 weeks and $900.00 later, which I am not considering. I have my smart phone and there is after-market replacement, which I would prefer not to do.

 

My main question is this: Is the dealer correct and the head unit has to be replaced or is it something else?

 

I am wondering if I can or do reset the Navi by disconnecting the battery for a bit would that help?

 

What if I update my SD card with the latest map, would that help?

 

Any thoughts and ideas are welcome. While the technology is 2013 and crude and light years behind my 20017 Acura TL Type S Navi and Radio, I would rather not yank out the head unit and fix or replace it.

 

Thank you,

Andrew

Sounds like the track is misaligned, then - not sure the system has any adjustment to it (certainly not in the service manual) - have you pulled the door card and watched to see where it might be binding?

 

Bingo 123- i did not see your reply till now, but I discovered that my passenger front window was feeding inside the track/stripping and the driver window was feeding on the outside of the track, so I just smoothed out the track/stripping and the window feed inside and not outside of it and now all is better.

 

I cannot believe i did not notice it before...Subu owner fail!

My problem was different, it totally stopped working.

 

You may have a dying motor?

 

Either way, if it's the regulator or motor, they only come together as an assembly.

 

Here is what happened to mine with some pics of the regulator motor assembly.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/driver-window-not-working-282904.html

Not sure it is a dying motor because if I spray lubricant in the window track, it will then operate normally for a while....

I'd check/listen for anything loose, as well as see if you apply a little pressure inward or outward if it works properly (pressure to the glass - light pressure)

 

 

 

It looks like there are two different reset procedures, the one to use depends on what the window is/isn't doing (though they look remarkably similar, maybe there is something that happens when actuating the auto up switch 10 times?) - anyway - here's a capture from the MY13 Service manual

 

123. Thank you. I have also applied light pressure to the window when it goes up and I have been able to get the window the rest of the way up when applying light pressure.

Hello Subu Folks- The Front drivers side window on my 2013 Subaru Legacy will not go up all the way either manually or when use the auto feature.

 

 

This started about 2 weeks ago as the weather climbed to 80-90 degrees. Before that, the window worked fine. The day it stopped working it was 89 degrees outside and I had the AC blowing ice cold. When I got home, i turned off the AC and opened the window and that is when it would not close all the way.

 

The window will go up 2/3-3/4 of the way before stopping and going down 2-3 inches.

 

I have already goggled the issue and found some related posts on this and the Subaru Outback forum, so I have already applied the common solutions.

 

1) Clean the trim area and vacuum for any stuck foreign objects

2) Perform the window reset

3) Use a silicon window trim liquid in the affected window trim piece.

 

1 and 3 work for a little while, but the original behavior presents itself again in 1-2 hours.

 

In the window reset- I never hear a click after 10- seconds of holding the window button up and the window fully closed.

 

I have an appointment next week at the dealership, but I really do not want to spend $135.00 per hour labor rate if this is something I can fix on my own.

 

Any additional thoughts/tips/insight would be most appreciated.

 

Thank you,

Andrew

So I took my wife's Outback to the dealer ship this past Tuesday and should them the original Oil Consumption test from 3 months and 2,500 miles ago....I was told not to come back until my low oil warning light comes on....which i imagine is gonna be at 3,000 miles.

 

Cannot wait for that battle in the next 3-4 months

How oil much is consuming per oil change? Or many miles before it is down a quart?

 

that I have noticed, between 2,500 and 3,000 miles

You have to have the consumption test performed. Also, when the oil is filled be sure you go with the advisor and check the oil level before you leave, there have been reports of overfilled engines.

 

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much appreciated

My wife and I bought a one owner 2015 OB 2.5 in 2017 with 20,000 miles. Over the course of our ownership, we have noticed oil being consumed in between oil changes at 4,750 (0W20) mile interval by our Subaru dealership.

 

Now we have seen oil get low and the oil light come and before knowing what was happening, so now being proactive I check the oil in between oil changes and we are definitely losing oil. Current mileage is 51,500.

 

With all the covid-19 stuff going on, I had forgotten to check the oil in the 2.5 OB until yesterday. 3 months and 2,600 miles later with the engine cold and the car level and not on an angle. the dipstick was dry with the exception of the tip of the dip stick and maybe an 1/8 of an inch after that.

 

Should I go to the dealership and ask for a replacement engine under the recall or do I need to do the oil consumption song and dance every 1,200 miles for the next 2,400-3,600 miles?

 

Thanks,

Drew aka GFINE

If I were to get a used Outback from our generation I’d look for a 3.6R with the 2013/2014 Special Appearance Package, probably in the black cherry color like this:

 

Hey, check out this car I found on Cars.com: https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/807299255/overview?aff=share_other

 

My thoughts exactly Keith!

I would keep with the 3.6 5eat combo it works well and rarely has issues. I believe after 2014 the 3.6 got a cvt.

 

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2015 3.6 and up had the CVT

 

2010-2014 3.6 had the 5AT

Hello Subu Folks- While I have enjoyed owning my 2013 Legacy 3.6R with Eyesight/Navi, I miss a full size wagon for a daily like my wife's 2015 Subaru Outback 2.5 CVT.

 

I got the 2013 Legacy as a replacement to my 2002 Subaru Outback and while it is a tremendous upgrade, I think I am better suited for the wagon lifestyle.

 

With a budget of $12,000, I am looking at 2011-2014 Subaru outback 3.6R with under 90-125K miles or a 2015-2016 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT.

 

I am better off keeping the 3.6/5AT power train or going with a 2.5 CVT?

 

Or do I keep my Legacy and just add roof rails for a cargo box?

 

Thank you for looking,

Drew

Hello Subaru Folks- I was wondering what car ramps any of you DIY'ers use to work on your Subaru Legacy's for oil changes/transmission fluid changes, etc...

 

Thank you,

Andrew

The welcome screen can be set to ON or OFF through the cluster menu.

Use your lower steering switch (bottom left side on picture) to access it.

 

 

Thank you!

Hello Subaru friends- I was messing around with my Subaru legacy this evening and was flipping through the welcome goodbye screen options and ever since with my welcome goodbye screen settings and enable their turned on I get my goodbye screen but when I get in the car and I turned the key I don’t get the Subaru legacy front end with the asymmetrical all wheel drive logo I just get the white background with the Subaru wording and logo what happens and how can I get my car image back that was way cooler with the headlights

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=subaru+3.6++belt+tensioner

I have searched previously and I have never found diy video specifically for replacing the belt tensioner on the 3.6.....maybe I’m over-thinking it and it’s not much different from replacing any other pulley for the 3.6....

Hello Fellow Subu Peeps- As the title indicates I am looking for any videos detailing how to remove and replace the Subaru 3.6 serpentine belt tensioner on my 2013 legacy 3.6R.

 

Thank you,

Andrew

No prob!

 

It just seems from the pics that the pulleys have mostly cosmetic damage, and you could save some bucks by refurbing them instead.

 

Good time to clean the timing case cover while all the pulleys are out, looks like there is corrosion on the aluminum too.

 

Scubaboo- what would you suggest to use to clean up the TCC?

Congrats on the new ride!

 

Yeah I am in the camp of not replacing the pulleys, a good scrubbing and high temp engine paint will make them look good as new or close for a lot less, IMO. New belt, tensioner and PCV is work that may not be needed yet, but is PM and that is always good.

 

Scubaboo- thanks for the feedback and suggestion. I might consider that as an option, once the pulleys are removed, but considering the amount of dirt and rust, it might be prudent to just have new on the engine to not have to question any failures in the future due to the PO's ignorance on maintaining the engine components

What year is it? If you end up resetting the transmission memory and relearning it after you replace the transmission fluid, do me a solid and let me know what you did and how it went.

 

 

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It is a 2013 build date of 03/12...

I just ordered a whole bunch of OEM parts online:

 

Drive Belt

Tensioner

Pulley(s)

Nuts and Bolts for said pulley(s)

PCV

AT Fluid Subaru OEM

 

Time to bring this Subu current with maintenance!

Make sure you call ahead to your notary/tag agent.

 

PennDot closed all offices until April 1st due to this ridiculous virus response. You may not be able to regisiter the car until this lunacy is over.

 

My local place was open this past weekend. It is tagged and PA inspected!

That is from driving around in the salted roads and it is pretty much all cosmetic. It seems like you just bought your car. If you really were looking for a clean engine bay you should have prioritized that when purchasing. Even if you replace the crank pulley, power steering pump, AC pulley, I am sure you have corrosion elsewhere in the engine compartment. I would just do the best you can to clean it up without replacing parts.

 

dgoodhue- yeah I was a little shocked when i opened the hood when i first saw the car. Complete opposite of my 2006 Toyota Camry with 241,xxx, but anyway. I suppose I overlooked the engine ugliness due o the price I paid for this Subaru and the fact I have money left over for issues like this

 

My main priority was getting the car home as it was in NJ and I was in PA being a 2 hour trip and not having legal tags or registration. Plus through in Covid19 and all the issues, I had to plan on going to the auto tag notary and then getting the car inspected.

 

Pretty much my priorities were/are:

1) Buy the car

2) Get PA Registration on the car

3) Get the car PA inspected

4) Order OEM replacement parts

5) Install those parts

6) Drive the car

 

 

I honestly appreciate the feedback it helps on what I should be focusing on with getting this car up and running for many years to come

Keep an eye on fluid levels but keep the hood shut otherwise!

 

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What? My 3.6 Boxer ain't SEXY??