Syd146

Will do. the pads I got sent that were the wrong size were TEC: front TBPTEC-929 rear TBPTEC-1114

I was just thinking the same last night. Would the rotors dragging be messing with the ABS. rotors diameter is the same as the originals parking brake is perfect inside the rotor. Just feel like the rotor is milled a little to close to the hub. ordering a different brand of rotors today. Will post when I get back from my trip. fingers crossed that’s it.

The Subaru won in the end swapped the brackets and thought I had enough clearance but when I mounted the tires they bound up and wouldn’t budge. I did eventually get them to move with allot of force from both hands. Tried to run the car on 4 Jacks and they grind in the back. Worse though is the brake pedal shudders then compresses when the wheels stop. I am completely lost. Bench bled the master cylinder and then ran almost a liter of brake fluid bleeding the rest starting RR, LR, FR, FL. What can cause the pedal to shake like that. I think I’m going to buy a different brand of rotors and hopefully they get the proper clearance. Otherwise the other option is new calipers and brackets. Either way I wont be able to do anything to it for 3 weeks now as I have to travel for work. I was so hoping to be done with this. It all started with a fuel tank change and became way to much more. Feel defeated with all the money and effort I dropped into it. Well we will see when I get back. Last option is I might just give in and take it to a shop. Out of my depth now with clearance issue and brake shudder.

Just bled them was pretty spongy at start. When I finally got to the front left there was allot of air and foam, then seemed to run clear no bubbles. Hardly any air from others though. Bleed about 500 ml. So close to the finish line yet so far…… Put rear tires on and the wheels wouldn’t spin. Really starting to think the rear rotors aren’t to spec. They aren’t in the middle of the bracket and the pin against the top bolt on the tires are mounted. The top bolt on both brackets protrudes (it has a washer on it as well). The original rotors seem to be more in the center. Going to check to see if both top and bottom bolts are the same length tomorrow.

It was from an open line that was dripping (couldn’t completely seal it) while fixing the caliper. No pressure on the pedal.

I ended up pulling the calipers off to heat one of the bleeders anyway. there is putting at the top end. Not ideal but don’t have options right now so I put them together after cleaning them off. They are fully retracted and move smoothly best of all they got around the brakes. How would I know if the master cylinder did get air in it/ is having issues? The reservoir was empty but it filled up fairly quick. also so many options for bleeding. Gravity or pressure. Some are saying never pressure as you push the master cylinder into an area it doesn’t normally get pressed into. Then others say you can’t gravity bleed air out. Very confusing.

Have not put the tire on yet to get the rotor tight. But press fitting it seems to have clearance. thing just got a whole lot more fun now too as I can’t fully compress the front calipers to get them over the new brakes and rotor. tried everything but I think they are hanging up with rust on the piston for the last couple of mm’s I need.

I just finished installing new rotors and when I put them on there isn’t even space on both sides. The side closest to the bracket has less than a dime width vs the outside which has allot. Short of it being normal to sometimes have an uneven gap so long as it doesn’t touch, I am going to have to assume a manufacturing problem with the rotors. The fronts look good and are the same manufacturer. Attached are picture of the old and the new which makes me think quality control on the rotors. it also looks like my brake reservoir emptied while I was changing brake lines. Am in for trouble with the ABS system or will a simple bleed for all 4 calipers still be ok? Anyone have any thoughts or experience with this.

Thank you. I was getting concerned it belonged up above the subframe and missed it. I must have already lost the other side as I was looking for an equivalent part on LH and couldn’t find anything. Just finished assembling the parking brake hardware. That was crazy. You basically need 3 hands lol. Now I need to bend new hard lines now as I needed to cut both small sections over the wheel hub? Has anyone else done this? I noticed the old ones have a fairly thick plastic coating. I bought a 12” section of nickel/copper line that already has the fittings. Checked the routing and I don’t think I need the exact bends, just clearance between the two brackets with around the strut.

So the adventure continues. With the limited space I have I dropped the entire subframe. Managed to get almost everything moved to the new tank (turns out the fuel pump was also cracked on top of a rotted tank). It arrives Thurs but I can get access from the top in the back seat. I just put the propeller shaft back but there just enough space to us a wench. How do you torque them to spec? Also I have a plastic guard an no clue where it’s from. It says RH but no part number. Hopefully it’s no up on the tank or inaccessible now that the subframe is back in. I’ve attached a picture of anyone has any ideas.

I have a 2005 Legacy GT Limited with a fuel leak. The garage said it was likely the fuel tank qouldnt quote a price saying a minimum of 12 hours. I decided to dive in and do the work myself after watching allot of videos and reading the service manual. So far the service manual has been hit or miss. I've even found two versions of the fuel tank change for the 4 cyl DOHC TC. The first version didnt mention removing the trunk trim to diconnect the vent line. I have managed to remove the fuel tank shield, drain the gas, remove the exhaust (cat back), heat shield, and propeller shaft. Now for my 3 big problems so far. 1. The manual says to hang the caliper from the frame but my model has a hard line on the hub with soft lines to the caliper and another soft line to the brake line on the frame. I am guessingIwill havetodiconnect the brakes even though the service manual says it isn't required. Where is the best place to disconnect the brakes. Any issues with this and how would you plug the brake lines? 2. It says to remove the ebrake but has absolutely no explanation how to remove the cable from the hub. There isnt a single video out there thata I can find showing my setup. It is pretty rested and after chipping though the rust I have found a bracket that looks like its on the hub, but can't find a clip. Has anyone replaces an emergency brake cable and have photos or tips? 3. The vent line in the trunk is extremely rusted and agin the manual does a horrible job explaining how to remove it. I bought a fuel line disconnect but the line still won't budge. I have used penetrating oil and tried to scrape out any rust from the link using a pick tool. Anyone deal with this line as I'm about to cut it and deal with replacing it once the tank it out? Appreciate any help from someone thats done a tank replacement on this model of Legacy.