HellsDisciples

The real issue is the Resonator is very thin metal. Your not really going to be able to heat it or add to to weld it back. Best thing is to delete it or buy a new one. I have the Resonator deleted on my 05 for this very reason as it broke at the neck.

Well, curious on whats a better speaker for my 05 Legacy GT. I would like to get better sound for my old battered beast. Curious what ones some have used.

 

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2005 Legacy GT Wagon, 5EAT

 

Hello all. Seeking your expertise. Not new to Subarus but its been a while.

 

Picked up this wagon with what I am pretty sure a blown turbo. Low to no boost. Rattling. Smoke coming out exhaust. Read through the "blown turbo" FAQ above and I had questions.

 

I'm hoping to build it as a reliable DD for my soon-to-be driving kid.

 

I'm hoping to replace with a stock'ish turbo. From the FAQ, the TD04 from the 08 WRX appears to be the most reliable OEM unit. Is this still the case? What do I need to swap with the turbo? Bolts up to up-pipe and everything?

 

I see that there may be issues with an oil filter in the banjo bolt but the FAQ links are no longer working. Is there anybody else that makes a similar hose/filter kit or DIY? Particularly with an external filter?

 

I was planning on gutting the up-pipe when I get the turbo off. Is it recommended to gut the DP as well?

 

I am planning on getting a tune, more to get rid of some of the sucky things in the stock tune and increase reliability than make power, so tuning for the turbo change will be done. I know the Cobb AP is a popular unit for Subies, but does anybody know if Cobb offers a map for this swap? I really don't plan on doing any modifications to the car so I may just turn to a tuner instead if the cost is much cheaper.

 

Any thing else in particular I should be looking at? I am planning a full fluids flush with multiple oil changes in the next few months here see if I can flush all the metal particles out. Possibly replace or add an inline oil filter in the stock oil cooler.

 

Thanks in advance for your expertise!

 

 

I know when my turbo went in my 05, the shop I took it to replaced it with an aftermarket for $1,500 only to find out 2-3k miles later that my up pipe was plugged.. which the shop failed to catch and damaged the new one. After that, due to the plugged up pipe I nuked a valve which nuked my #2 piston. Resulted in having to replace the piston, the crank, heads were sent out for polish/check for cracks. Short block was good tho so we rebuilt the entire engine with new seals, timing belt, etc and a used turbo for $3.8k.

 

my car at idle runs rough, not always , sometimes, i drive it come to a stop light and the car shakes, like a washing machine out of balance then comes back, roughness at 1 and 3 varies , up to 13 on 1, last week with cold weather up to 100 on 1.........

no leakes, dw 65, new fuel filter, new intake seals, oxy is fine , it will take 20 secs when i restart the car when ap turns on to correct itself, but happens all the time,

any ideas?

 

Had more or less the same thing with my 05 before my piston blew. Hoping that's not the case. If you can, pressure test the pistons to make sure its not loosing compression in any cylinder. Couldn't do that before my piston exploded... $3.8K later on rebuilding the engine.. and the shop I did it.. still not 100% that its fixed yet.. he had to tear it down once already and redo the building after only 300 or so miles due to a faulty crank.

I have brand new tires on my car, high quality tires. Don't think that is the issue and about a week ago, honest to God I just had all my brakes checked, while the mechanic was installing a new water pump n alternator, every sense I had my front CV axel and boots replaced my ABS will not go off. Could that have something to do with it? Or.... Could it be something to do with my Duty C Solenoid, Transfer Clutch Pack or clutch hub being bad

 

What tires tho?? Could easily be a tire issue vs mechanical issue. As far as ABS, that could effect traction, could take it to a dealer to diagnose. I would look into tires first and head from there. Ive had shit all season tires on my 2005 Legacy GT making the car absolute shit in the snow. I personally stick with Cooper or Falken tires all seasons all year round for the weather here in NY. Drive hard, fast and can get the tires to last almost 3yrs before wear indicators.

Pretty sure this issue is what nuked my first turbo.. even tho I took it to the dealership for oil changes.. they obviously missed it.. and they some how missed my plugged up-pipe to the turbo that fried my exhaust valve that killed my engine after they had it for diagnosis... Now i'm rebuilding my engine. I'll make sure to mention it to my master mechanic that he remove those banjo bolts entirely in case hes not aware.

Need to look into getting something like this for my Legacy when I get it back in March... Thanks for the info! Sorry to necro.

 

Damn.. link doesn't work.. Blah... may be SOL :X

 

I got these:

https://gtrlighting.com/gtr-lighting-35w-canbus-pro-single-beam-hid-conversion-kit-3rd-generation/

 

5000k H7 Kit.

 

two kits or just one for both headlights?

As, I am currently without my 2005 Subaru Legacy GT until around January due to needing an engine rebuild.. What's recommended to get a lot better visibility from the headlights? We have a 2014 Outback 2.5i which is FAR superior even with Sylvania Xtravision bulbs. Leave A LOT to be desired. Looking at options for after I get it back.