K-Dub

Thought I’d throw an update to my issue here. Since replacing the head unit/ dual auto climate unit, all my dead battery and cold start issues have gone away.

I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy wagon 5mt with the dual automatic climate control. I bought it used with 197k on it and have been battling with a parasitic draw since I got it. I’ve been digging everywhere for a wiring diagram but all the links keep coming up to dead ends. The previous owner knew of the draw, had it in to a shop, found the draw was associated with a blue wire that came out of a plug above the interior fuse box. The shop wired up a switch on that wire, and problem (kinda) solved. With that switch off, the car will start, but all the doors show open on the dash. It also kills all the radio memory as well as all the radio/climate backlighting and the climate control and all of its memory. It also kills the clock and the milage computer. That’s the annoying part. When the weather is nice and I drive the car everyday, I can leave the switch on, and I am fine the following day. But if the car gets cold, or sits for more than one day, the car won’t start. By not start, it’ll crank for ages till the battery dies. Usually I can put a jumper pack on it and it fires up immediately. Now I can hear the fuel pump prime and after a period of time the odometer turns off while cranking. Ive has similar issues on other cars (not Subaru) where a faulty immobilizer would cut power to the ECM/fuel injectors/ ignition coil, if the immobilizer read an invalid key. My theory is the parasitic drain is bringing my voltage down to a level that is causing my key to read invalid, therefore shutting my spark or fuel off while I attempt to start. Ideally I want to identify that blue wire and it’s path through the car, fix the drain, and have a car that reliably starts every day I need it. Battery is less than 3 months old, new plugs, and timing was done within the last 3 months as well. None of those items have helped. After reading this thread, I do have a used head unit on the way as my disc changer function was not working anyway. Why help or insight would be greatly appreciated. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I’m new and not allowed to post new threads yet.

Thanks! You are a life saver!

I hate to revive an old thread, but I’m having a similar issue. Did you ever find the source of the issue? Mine will not start once the temp hits 30 degrees or less. Absolutely no spark. I disabled the alarm, now I get spark and still won’t start. I found out that if I cycle the key 5 or 5 or 6 times (not to start), it usually fires up. It’s really frustrating.

SET SELF-DIAGNOSIS MODE BY OPERATING A/C CONTROL PANEL.

1) Turn the ignition switch to OFF.

2) Start the engine while holding down the

AUTO switch and FRESH/RECIRC switch.

 

See attached chart

 

I would love to be able to mess with the fan speeds (or bias) mostly to get lower speeds in auto while heating. Any way to put a potentiometer on the output to the blower to gain a variable reduction of the whole range of speeds?

 

Just make sure the POT has a huge heat sink. Those blowers draw some serious current.

I read it, and I’m loving the ACC.

Great info! Thanks.

Great write up! Any clue on what 96svx is charging for a i88 harness?