FastButReliable

The 24mm would probably be a Great Size for the Outback..

 

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If you get too big with the rear bar without increasing the size of the front bar, you could end up with over-steer which could become dangerous.

 

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I'm in upstate NY and bought 16" alloy wheels and tires from TireRack. Installed last night. No problem with installation/clearance. TireRack included hub rings for a correct fit.

I'm curious about how 16" wheels will affect speed--will the odometer read higher than actual speed with the smaller wheels??? And what about psi? Do I keep the psi at the same pressure as 17" tires?? Appreciate your thoughts

Here's an easy to use calculator for fitment. Could be some change in speedo reading depending on profile of tire. https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=225&aspect=55&diameter=17&wheelwidth=7.5&offset=55&width2=225&aspect2=60&wheel_size=16&wheel_width=7-5&offset2=55

 

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Ready for Winter now

 

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I decided on these. I thought they would go good with the gray metalic of my Legacy. I kind of wish they had the stock offset which is 55 mm. Hopefully 5 mm doesn't make a big difference in load bearing or fender clearance. https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=4947756550HB&wheelMake=Enkei+Performance&wheelModel=YS5&wheelFinish=Hyper+Black&showRear=no&autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=Legacy&autoYear=2019&autoModClar=2.5i+Premium

No, but they have plenty of good, inexpensive wheels that look better than steel wheels.

 

I worry about the quality of the under $200 alloy wheels. I thought the steel rims would would be guaranteed to be strong enough to deal with some Winter abuse. My car is not likely to look great in the Winter anyway.

 

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I always thought it was to keep the gasket from sticking.

It might do both

 

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Hmm. Looks like Tire rack doesn't have any steel rims for the Legacy.

 

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I want to get Winter tires and a set of steel rims for a 2019 Premium with 17 inch wheels. I'm wondering if the 16 inch with higher profile tires would be better in the deep snow we get here in the U.P. of Michigan. The wheels and tires are a lot cheaper with the tires on closeout at Tire Rack. Any downsides? I'm hoping it doesn't affect handling too much.

 

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Bad idea. Vanity is absolutely the worst reason to go with a non-standard offset. Changing offset will significantly alter wheel bearing loading and adversely affect suspension geometry (e.g. scrub radius).

Drives me crazy to see heavy duty pickups with reversed dish rims for this reason. Why does someone buy a heavy duty truck and then reduce it's load capacity with reversed dished rims? Usually, they are also jacked way up in the air and when I look at the differential it doesn't have much more ground clearance than the Outback. I guess they think it looks cool; it just looks stupid to me.

 

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I've done hundreds of oil changes on lots of different cars and have never been able to loosen it by hand. I've always assumed putting oil on the gasket is to help is seal better; I'm not sure how much it helps with making it easier to take off. I'm sure you'll be better prepared next time.

 

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I recently moved to Marquette in the U.P. of Michigan where we got 227 inches of snow last year. I have the opportunity to buy a 2019 Legacy premium with 12k miles for $21,400 (may be able to get it down as low as $20k since they've had it for a while) or a 2018 Forester premium with 20k miles for $24k firm. Is it worth the up to $4k difference to get the added ground clearance of a Forester? I do like having the lower center of gravity, better handling and comfort of the Legacy. This is my first Winter here and I survived driving through my first snow storm up here with my Honda Civic and managed fine. I'm not totally sure how much worse it gets.

 

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I am looking at the following:

 

 

 

2016 Camaro SS

 

2016 Mustang GT Convertible - test driving it tomorrow (loaded to the hilt)

 

2016 GMC Sierra Denali Pickup

 

2016 Jaguar XE

 

2016 Jaguar XF

 

 

 

I now these are all over the board related to vehicle types and I may buy a car and the truck together but the above vehicles I really like and have the urge/itch for a sports car and a luxury truck...maybe I hit my mid-life crisis:)

 

 

 

It's that darn carbuyingitis that the docs can't seem to cure.....

I wouldn't buy a used Jaguar. There is a reason they depreciate a lot. The maintenance cost will just get more and more ridiculous the older it gets.

 

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I am looking at the following:

 

 

 

2016 Camaro SS

 

2016 Mustang GT Convertible - test driving it tomorrow (loaded to the hilt)

 

2016 GMC Sierra Denali Pickup

 

2016 Jaguar XE

 

2016 Jaguar XF

 

 

 

I now these are all over the board related to vehicle types and I may buy a car and the truck together but the above vehicles I really like and have the urge/itch for a sports car and a luxury truck...maybe I hit my mid-life crisis:)

 

 

 

It's that darn carbuyingitis that the docs can't seem to cure.....

I wouldn't buy a used Jaguar. There is a reason they depreciate a lot. The maintenance cost will just get more and more ridiculous the older it gets.

 

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Or you could just buy an Outback.

 

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It makes no sense why Subaru embraced the CVT. A good 7-9 speed auto is both faster and equally fuel efficient.

The CVT is probably cheaper though.

 

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For normal driving, this is a VERY modest upgrade. When you get on it in the twisties (take a hard turn), is when you'll notice the benefit.

 

Sway bars are ONLY for when you're turning (i.e., the suspension is loaded). A RSB will transfer grip from rear to front, minimizing oversteer, making the car feel more tail-happy. Note: there's plenty of built-in under-steer, so don't worry about the car becoming unsafe with a 20mm OEM replacement.

 

I'm not going to cover imperfections in the road, for which a thicker anti-sway bar will increase harshness slightly.

A RSB gives you more over-steer, not less.

 

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Benefits are solely in the seat of the pants of the beholder. The rear suspension of all Gen 6 Legacys is virtually identical, so the effect of a different RSB will be the same across model years.

 

There was nothing to "correct." Subaru engineers chose what they considered to be the optimum rear roll stiffness for "average" driving environments. Some drivers prefer it to be stiffer, and Subaru just happens to have other suitable RSBs in the parts bin.

 

My advice is to keep the OE 16mm RSB for at least 6 months, then replace it only if you decide you really need something stiffer. Consider that the 19mm RSB will be twice as stiff in torsion as the OE 16mm bar.

The average passenger car is usually is also engineered to have some under-steer because under-steer is generally more forgiving than over-steer.

 

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