SaskyGT

After months of delays getting something from eBay, I got the flip keys. I went with 433 MHz and the 4D60 transponder. Unfortunately, when the tech (not dealer) was going to program the keys, when he selected the vehicle, it came up with a warning that said something to the effect "absolutely make sure you are not on a G blade key." He never saw that warning before and he doesn't do many subarus, so he backed out. I forgot the name of the unit he was using, but it was fairly chunky unit in black.

Does anybody know what a G Blade Key is and is that warning applicable?

Failing all this, I have an appointment next Tuesday at the dealership to get the programming done there.

I have looked high and low and couldn't find all the right information in the same place nor get definitive answers regarding the transponder chip.

For 2010 Legacy:

• The OEM key part number is 57497AJ00A. It is applicable to MY 2010 to 2014.
  
• The transponder chip is 4D6#? I have found both references to 4D60 and 4D62.
  
• The keyless entry frequency is 433 MHz. The FCC ID is CWTWBU766. Inside the key, there is an additional model ID which is CWTWB1U766.
  

For 2011-2014 Legacy:

• The OEM key part number is 57497AJ10A. It is applicable to MY 2011 to 2014. It is not applicable for any 2010 model.
  
• The transponder chip is 4D60 (please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm basing this on any reference I have found never pairs this key with a 4D62 chip)
  
• The keyless entry frequency is 315 MHz. The FCC ID is CWTWBU811. )I'm assuming that the module inside would have a model ID of CWTWB1U811.)
  

The main reason for this thread is to see if we can definitevely say that if you have a 57497AJ00A or 57497AJ10A key, that you need to find THIS transponder and THIS keyless entry module.

Can anybody concretely confirm the transponder chip inside the 57497AJ00A key? I opened mine up and there are two numbers, but I can't crossreference them: 9519 and R-05463.

Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated because many sites list 2010-2014 as being the applicable MY which just doesn't seem correct due to 2010 having the 57497AJ00A and the 57497AJ10A is NOT applicable for 2010.

ILCO has a blank, DAT17T13, that is for 09-10 Legacy and includes a 4D62 transponder.

Does anybody know if these keys can be cloned? Or can they only be added by registration?

So bringing the compression issue to an end.

Machine shop replaced 3 exhaust valves, I got the heads back on and did a leak down test, all show fantastic numbers.

Now if I was competent, I wouldn't have needed to order brand new AVCS exhaust cams. Spent the last week reading about what I should have done and when I went to go clean them, found out that my pins have been bent.

When the gears arrive, I should have this guy assembled this weekend (finally!)

Has anybody re-pinned the gears and had luck? Or tightened the cam gear down without the spring, holding the hub in place another way, then install the spring once it is all tight? With the bolt squeezing everything together, is there any way that hub would move?

I talked to our head mechanic and his opinion was the cylinder looks fine, the cross hatching is still present and without any scoring, he figures there isn't anything too wrong there. In any case, at this deep into the engine, can I simply unbolt the rod, take the piston out and take a look? If it is fine, put it back in and bolt it up again? Can I get it out after taking off the oil pan?

Anywho, did a liquid leak test of the exhaust valves with isoprophyl alcohol and it just poured passed that smaller valve. Not as fast as I was putting it in, but definitely more than a seep. I think I may lucked out and just got a bad repair job on an exhaust valve. I'm waiting for my spring compressor to get back to me, hopefully the valve seat isn't too far gone.

Pretty sure not a headgasket issue. No other symptoms - anti freeze or oil, nor leaking into other cylinder. Keep in mind that it hasn't been firing on cylinder 4 for about 1,000 km or so (could be more, po couldn't give me a concrete answer).

I'll try to find my spring compressor and take the valves out. The large one looks the same as cylinder 2 doesn't it?

Is there a way to determine the health of the piston rings at this stage?

Okay, finally got to removing the head. Boy do I like working on my dsm by a long shot. Anyways, here are some pictures. The one exhaust valve is smaller than the other, but can't what is going on. I want to say exhaust valve, but how do I check the rings?

When I did the leakdown I simply couldn't tell where the air was going. I had the filler cap off and nothing. Head by the exhaust tips, nothing.

Read this entire thread. The early posts are doubtful but the more you read the more they start to understand why the mod was made.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2882734

The EJ has fundamental flaw with how the coolant flows through the left hand head and some say the knock sensor location exacerbates this. If you find pictures of blown EJs you'll notice a trend that cylinder 4 is the one the is messed up or looks the worst.

Very interesting read once you sort through all the shenanigans that is NASIOC. On the page for Dom's kit, it mentions that it doesn't fit LGT 10+. Is there a particular reason?

The motor isn't easily interchangeable and those motor are unreliable with that many miles. You would have to strip it down to a short block and reused the heads, cams, oil scavenge pump for the low mount turbo from your 2010. The 5th Gyn also has an extra bolt for the oil pan as well.

I had some issues trying to make a post from my phone last night. Chrome wouldn't let me attach pictures and tapatalk didn't either apparently.

Timing belt condition - ignore the timing marks, the crank wasn't lined up

These two pictures are a pair - crank is centered and the resulting cams. If I centered the cams, the crank would be almost two teeth over from center (didn't take a picture and can't remember clearly right now)

On my 1g DSM, when the one exhaust valve was burnt, there was a hole about the size of a pencil through it. Wouldn't make any compression at low RPM or a compression test but would fire sometimes at high RPM. On this car, it was driveable, but at idle it would sway the whole vehicle side to side in a gentle motion.

I'll hold off speculating though until the leak down test is done. But yes, the engine is coming out.

Okay, so the weekend didn't go as planned, but here we are. Got the timing covers off and found the timing belt in abhorrent condition.

Also discovered the timing is off by a tooth. Please let me know if I'm missing something, but every other rotation when the crank marks were aligned, the exhaust cam is off.

Can a tooth off cause zero compression or will there still possibly be compression?

Didn't have the time to pull the valve cover or figure out when the valves are closed for the leakdown test.

Hopefully tomorrow will get that done if the kids cooperate.

Speaking of possible replacement options, there is a wrecked 2004 outback xt vin: 4S4BP67C054338355 coming up in salvage auction starting at $800. 347,000 km though! Written off for damage to the side, not front end collision. Thoughts or just too much mileage? No history to say if it ever has had the engine replaced.[ATTACH]279828[/ATTACH][ATTACH]279829[/ATTACH][ATTACH]279830[/ATTACH]

The block is identical across the wrx and sti line, the pistons are different as well as some minor upgrades on the ej257. Our block is only different in that it has the provision to mount our oil pan and adapter. The ej257 has a slightly lower compression and slightly better pistons.

What adapter are you referring to?

The real differences are the heads. Wrx is almost all single avcs, where STI and our cars are dual avcs. Our car is the only ej255 to use the larger oil pump as well, it comes standard on the ej257.

So an STI longblock (swap oil pan, water pump, grab the passenger side scavenger pump) would be acceptable?

Are there any major differences with a non-turbo EJ25 short block? I'm assuming there is, but figured I would ask. When I'm looking at wreckers and etc... I will for sure want a turbo'ed EJ25?

Our engine also comes with the larger oil pump found on the STI engines, apparently the dual avcs calls for more oil volume. So be sure you are also getting the correct pump.

I'm not familiar with these engines too much, can the pump from my current block be switched over to another EJ25 block?

Burnt valves are more common on our engines than a standard ej25 ringland failure. This issues has popped up at least a few times in our forum, so don't write off that engine just yet, until you have done the leak-down test.

Any tips for finding TDC on #4? I'm used to the 4G63 and just putting a straw in the cylinder hole, but with a horizontal cylinder, not sure how well that will work. If it is a burnt valve, the motor will need to come out to get the head off, correct?

You also need to consider the extra oil scavenging pump on the passenger side head that will not be included in a standard STI or WRX long block assembly, and if your short block is toast I would be hesitant to reuse the heads without them being properly cleaned and rebuilt. Do it right the first time for sure.

Getting the heads redone shouldn't be too bad, but might not be able to get it done locally is the only concern. Up in Canada, stuff can be pretty far away sometimes. If I get any EJ25 longblock, keep: the heads, oil pump, oil pan, and water pump (replace)?

This isn't a car that I was going to go all out on, I have a 2g DSM that is more than enough. I was thinking of a few simple things to make it breathe a bit better and doesn't have to work as hard. The number one thing I'm after for this car is reliability, which it seems that using aftermarket bearings and better specs for the clearances can help with, but I need a machine shop in Canada for that.

What I can't seem to get a good grip on is all the variations of engines that Subaru has. An EJ255 isn't the same as another EJ255 because it uses different heads and block. Is there anywhere that spells out what blocks and heads are used on different vehicles and model years and what the differences are? There is a guy selling a brand new 10103AC890, but I can't seem to find if it is an EJ255 or EJ257 - it is used only on Impreza WRX and STI from 2008 to 2014. Would it be worth to grab it or order the exact short block code from SOA?

I won't get a chance to do the leak down until Saturday, so I'll hold off speculating too much, but I do like learning and there is certainly lots to learn about the different engines, but also a lack of exact information.

Unless it's a coil pack I would assume it's the standard EJ problem.

Can this be rebuilt in this case and this a common thing for cylinder #4 to be fried?

Thank you all for the help!

6) How can I get in on some of this profit?

We just need to understand step 5!

Did a drive, got a proper log that I will post later, but the gist is that the left exhaust cam is stuck between 0* - 4* and the right is 10*+ at idle, so something is wrong there, but from what I'm reading, the AVCS alone can't cause this issue.

Took off the coil packs for #2 and #4. #2 was an aftermarket coil and #4 was original. There was slight delamination of the shims on #4, but when switched #2 and #4, #4 kept the misfire.

Took the plugs out and nothing to note there.

Did a compression test on #4, 0 psi. This is where I had to call it a night.

Today, the plan is to remove the timing covers and take a look at the marks, if all is in time, get #4 TDC and do the leak down test. Either way, engine is going to have to come out unless it is timing that can cause just #4 fail.

If it is the short block, the 5th gen LGT seems to be an unique assembly, but if I understand correctly, the cylinder block is only different because of an extra hole for the oil pan. The other differences are the front engine mount and the water pump is different on this engine. It seems the 2010 LGT short block was AB980 which is now replaced by AC860. For all other cars, 2006-2014, it was the AB630 which is now replaced by the AC880. Is the only difference between the AC860 and AC880 the bolt hole for the oil pan? An AC880 seems to be much easier to acquire due to covering many more years of vehicles.

With that in mind, can I grab any turbo'ed EJ25 or does it have to be an EJ255 v2 short block? From what I read, does the below sound right for moving parts of the current block over to the "new" one:

• swap oil pan (goop over the missing hole)
  
• new 2010 LGT water pump
  
• swap heads
  
• swap accessories (AC, power steering, alt)
  
• swap both manifolds, including throttle body
  

Man didn't even think of that. I just got it and threw a logger on and got some information. This car has lived its life in Ontario, Alberta, and now Saskatchewan.

I'll do a proper log (I forgot to record speed to indicate if I was idling or driving last time) then swap the coils around.

Thanks!

First time working on an engine with AVCS, and have searched quite a bit and couldn't find my scenario.

Bought a 2010 Legacy GT USDM with a very bad misfire on cylinder 4. Got it home, installed btSsm and started looking at the AVCS information. The intake AVCS seems good, reading the same and at 0* at idle.

The exhaust AVCS is wonky. The right side is 8* at idle, left side at 0*. While driving around the block the right side is moving up to a max of 18*, but the left side is stuck at 0*-2*. Current is present and duty cycle seemed to be stuck on 9.64% through the 1st gear drive around the block. Tonight, I will do a proper log.

Additionally, there are P0016 and P0017 as stored codes, but haven't come back that I can tell. I know there are better logs I can take, but the ultimate question I have is: can a malfunctioning right side cause a misfire in cylinder 4? Can a malfunctioning AVCS system on the exhaust side cause a misfire in general?

My steps for diagnosis were going to be:

1) swap OCV between right and left - cleaning them out while they're out

2) compression test cylinder 4

3) leak down test cylinder 4 if no compression (are there marks to indicate TDC cylinder 4 without taking off timing cover?)

4) depending on leak down test, check timing marks

5) ???

6) profit