subie2nr

Hi everybody,

 

finally I diagnosed what is the problem.

 

Code P1710 appeared. Then I googled it and found out that many people are experiencing the same issue. In Japan there was also a free replacement for it.

 

The cheapest way to repair it is buying turbine speed sensor 2 ($100) which is located on valve body and have it replaced. The more expensive one is having replaced valve body. In every authorised dealership, that is what is going to happen...

 

I found one sensor on ebay, so I am waiting for it to arrive, then I am going to change it.

 

I will let you know what is the result.

 

It's crazy that it took almost 2 years to show the code...

Do you have a part number for this part? Hoping this is my issue, but it happens to me under aggressive load, and I have a manual transmission.

Thanks mondtster! So basically you got a spool of something similar to this? Was there a reason you didn't go with the JDM engine harness?

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/belden-9460-18-awg-1-pair-multi-conductor-single-pair-cable-tinned-copper-pe-insulation-pvc-jacket.html?gclid=CjwKEAiA2abEBRCdx7PqqunM1CYSJABf3qvau8TVVRhwa-GWPhNFfYnqmB6K_nMZe0GiMCoapnpnTxoCi1nw_wcB

 

Whenever I go for the engine, I plan on grabbing year appropriate ECU with connector plugs and a couple inches of harness to de and re pin. In reality I was hoping to get the complete engine with harness, and run an overlap harness like you mentioned from the main engine connector back through the firewall to the new ECU. Again, really need to dig into the pin out for the JDM and USDM to see if that's feasible without a lot of re pinning.

 

 

 

 

Ah, thank you for giving some actual real world feedback. I feel like a thread like this could use it until more of us go through with it!

 

When I mentioned 20G I meant I thought kingugawa had offered a proper flanged TD05-20G unit. Fully aligned with you on the TD04-20T. Thanks for the links too, I may be needing them!

We do this in the Saab world all the time. My '08 saab 9-3 aero has a td-04, and it has been sent out to get a 20G, even a 22G (i've had many). I picked up a 2010 LGT, did the ej20y swap, usdm heads (2.5), usdm ecu, usdm cams (exhaust side shouldn't be a problem since the LGT came with it stock), and waiting for an oil pan leak to be fixed before playing around with the tune. I'm interested in seeing what I can do with the jdm 2.0l until i fully build a 2.5. At the end of the day, the aero is faster. That same turbo set up on the 2.8l does 420hp, 510 ftlb. But I like the all wheel drive, and those 2.0l are so cheap to replace i feel like i'm buying honda engines again. So i don't mind blowing up a few for the sake of research. Hopefully XRT will get exercise it's demons and give me a peppy, everyday car that can handle my trips North.

Update. 2.0l jdm engine is in. Starts and runs fine. Going to get a custom tune from XRT for it. Ride that tune through the winter months, then around May I should have stock piled parts for the 2.0l or a built 2.5. Having trouble communicating with the shop that gave me a quote for the built block, so exploring different options. B/c of the holidays, the car hasn't hit the road yet. It is on the early list for the new year.

Will let you know how it goes.

The EJ25 has a larger bore than a EJ20. I haven’t had an EJ255 apart yet, but will the combustion chamber line up? Will the valves clear the smaller bores? (Or line up with the pistons if they have reliefs). I know with some car manufacturers, you can’t swap between the different engine bores of the same engine family.

At present it is bolted up. Waiting on a decent day or one of the lifts to free up. It will work or it won't. Cost to me is $700 plus a lot of time. If it doesn't work, a month later a built 2.5 will take its place. This is as much to see what's possible, and how involve something like this might be. I've learned more about these cars during the his swap than I've ever known. Very good info coming off this board as well. Forgive the delays, I'm not full time on the car, so things are taking a bit longer to verify and/or answer.

is the combustion chamber on a 2.5 the same as the jdm heads? I have done zero research on that but I would assume they're larger to keep compression down with the higher displacement. So if I understand you correctly your basically just swapping short blocks?

The short answer is yes, I am basically swapping the short block. I'm working with a former Subaru mechanic who has done these swaps before in the dealership. Though for my particular installation we are discovering things as we go, so far so good. Everything at this point is exploratory.

fair enough lol. are you going to use the factory bottom mount turbo or the turbo your jdm unit came with? you engine come with pcm and harness?

Factory position. I like the position of the turbo on the 2010 lgt. It was mainly done so I didn't have to make space in the engine bay. I moved over virtually everything from the 2.5 block, down to the oil pan. The dip stick was routed a little bit differently on the jdm, and since I was swapping the cams I moved that as well. 2.5 heads have also been used, waterpump replaced

If its bad valves why are you messing with the bottom end?

198k miles. If I had to go this far, might as well make it as new as possible. Replacement engine until the built one is ready. I'll be playing around with the tuning potential (?) of the jdm 2.0 til then.

Any plans for those heads or engine?

 

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A stage 3+ rebuild of the short block. Manley internals and suchlike. The heads are on the jdm 2.0 that will be a surrogate engine until the 2.5 has been built and ready to be swapped.

Actually hoping I find a cleaner body that needs a swap.

That is the plan.

Did you ever figure out why the original motor has 2 cylinders with low compression? The original motor maybe repairable.

Valves were burned up. Pretty much destroyed. I'll take a picture and post it.

I'm actually waiting for a quote to come back on a built 2.5 engine. But I think I will source a body with the options I want and then do that swap. The price dropping is a bit of a concern.

I'll keep you all posted. I like the 5 Gen 2.5, but it's hard to get folks to respond to inquiries. If you guys have any resources or reliable engine rebuilders I'm all ears. I've tried the one mentioned above, but still no bites.

The Dual AVCS also help low end torque, assuming you use a JDM ECM and wiring up the DAVCS in your swap.

Missed out on the 4th den body. The 2.0 is ready to go in, so I may just drop it into the fifth den and find another fifth Gen donor body when I get the built engine.

The fifth Gen came with davcs, hoping I won't need the jdm, and a custom tune will make all the components work.

That would depend on the size and ability of your turbo. In a low mount EL configuration like the 5th gen has it probably wouldn't matter with a twin scroll just right size turbo. It would spool early enough and hold on long enough for some really good numbers. The side mount turbo of older models though would be a different story. The runners are longer and there is noticeably more lag even with a twin scroll. But there are lots options there too.

That's encouraging. I'll start doing a search for turbos that fit on the ej20y. I had planned to use the stock LGT 2.5 turbo to complete the swap. This may still happen to get the car up and broken in with the new engine. But now I'll have my eyes open for a replacement turbo. Any recommendations? In the saab world td04s aren't too shabby, but I don't think they're twin scroll. They may not fit. I'll have to find out which cars came here with the twin scroll turbo and start sourcing a replacement.

You may want to read up on the EJ20X/Y threads in the 4th Gen section.

I did. That's why the change. I still like the ej20y, and would like to build one, so I'm looking for a Gen 4 lgt to drop it into.

But the easy of dropping another 2.5 back into the Gen 5 lgt, and an already built one at that, can't pass it up.

My only concerns with the 2.0 is how noticeable the drop off in low end torque would be. Can someone answer that from a real world daily driving application?

DDA Tuned in Newburgh. I'll be buying the built short block from them. This is my first experience with them, so I can't say much more. The initial conversations seemed promising however.

Does anyone have any experience dealing with DDA?

Quick update, buying a built 2.5 block for the 2010 LGT. Manley internals and such, forgive the spelling if I'm wrong. Taking the ej20y and dropping it into an 06 LGT, mainly because it has been done and there is tons of support for it. Will probably sell the 06 LGT to recoup some of the money spent. Shame is, I've already swapped over most of the parts and was ready to drop it in. Then came across a place that built 2.5 engines at a really reasonable price.

I'll let you know how it all goes.

Yeah, the OEM springs are just way, way too soft. I think that's why now with the RCE's the car feels so much more planted, because it's not pogo-sticking and bouncing all over the place, or rising and falling like a ship at sea. Did I mention I get sea-sick easily?

Your ball joints won't last long with that behavior.

take off the timing cover and rotate the engine to top dead. if the marks don't line up rotate the engine once again to top dead. since the crank turns twice to one camshaft revolution it might not be lined up on the first time you turn the crank top dead. if its all lined up the next step would be to do a cylinder leakage test. most people tell you to remove valve covers and make sure the lobes are off the lifter and blah blah. I cheat though and set the pressure on the leakage tester low then just turn the engine till it seals the best. then just turn the pressure up some and listen for air in the throttle body(bad intake valves), tail pipe(bad exhaust valve), or through the oil cap. some there will probably normal, all engines have blow by. More then likely you have bad exhaust valves, it'll be considerably cheaper to fix the heads than to replace the engine and you'll be much happier with the end result

I'll try this over the weekend. A compression test was done before the engine was pulled but I'll look for the alignment of the cams and the other things you've mentioned. If this resolves it, there are a few donor 5th gen cars out there for sale with dead engines. They would find a new home in my garage.

do you know why you have low compression? seeing how 1 and 3 are same bank it might be as simple as jumped time

How would I begin to investigate this?

http://www.car-part.com is a good resource for used parts most offer warranties too, an engine for our car will not be cheap though. I would have bought a new short block for the time and money put into a conversion/rebuild.

Looking at the site now. Nice resource. Thank you.

You need at least intake cams for the oil pump to function. I don't know if the EJ20 heads have the provision for mounting the scavenge pump or if the Ej255 cams interchange into the EJ20Y.

 

This I'll need to look into more. Total novice with Subarus, usually tune Saabs... And no, not the 9-2 aeros.

I thought by Going with a motor that had Dual AVCS I wouldn't need to change the cams. The mechanic doing most of the heavy lifting thinks that it will work. I'll keep you guys posted. Also, if any of you has a reliable source for a 2.5 turbo motor please let me know.

Thank you for the responses. I went with the ej20y b/c a replacement 2.5 is a hard thing to find. Maybe rebuilding, though I'm against it, was the way to go. I'll look into the the things you both mentioned. I have a reputable tuner with many years of Subaru tuning experience to sort out the ecu. Hopefully I can get this to work.

If you think of anything else do not hesitate to drop a note.

It has been hard trying to search for 5th gen jdm swaps. Bought a 2010 LGT which had a loss of compression on cylinders 1 and 3. Looked for jdm swaps write ups to get a road map for what would be required to do a jdm swap and ran into a month of reading. Since all of it amounted to AVCS being functional or not after the swap, at least for 4th gen LGTs, I settled on a jdm 2006 legacy gt 2.0 motor because it came from the factory with dual avcs like the 2010 LGT (usdm) car that I bought did. My thinking was that the required bits on the ej20y (hardware) and the required bits on the 2010 ecu (software) would mesh.

The engine is out now and the ancillary hardware is being swapped from the compromised 2.5 to the replacement 2.0. While the engine is out, I would like to know if I would need to modify/change the harness, or is my theory correct, and it will plug up and work?

Keeping the USDM ecu to manage the ej20y

Will be tuned by a capable and knowledgeable Subaru tuner to work out any bugs that may arise...

But while the engine is out, I want to make sure and do all that needs to be done before putting it back in.

Rebuilding the 2.5 is not a route I want to take.

All your help is appreciated.

P.S.

Has no one played around with the 5th Gen LGTs. The site is full of 4th Gen LGT swaps.