doru

All deals felt through. Anyone still interested?

New price $80+$10 ground shipping.

I'll take them if not already sold.

I'll let you know one way or another. Thanks

See

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AqkmCq9OFXZhnNZJqTak6XGj8lTzlA

I only have two pics but rest assure all 4 are included.

-SOLD-

I have a new set of RallyArmor Direct Fit MF4-UR-BLK SIL mud flaps for sale.

They have not been installed.

Color is black with silver writing.

The mounting hardware is missing. For mounting you need screws, washers, clips and 2 spacers. You can reuse your OEM hardware (if your car has OEM mud flaps) or get/make your own from amazon/hardware store. If you need I will provide detailed pictures and specs of the hardware.

$80+$10 ground shipping or local pickup if you are in Seattle Eastside area.

I wonder if you contacted one of the Vendors, and ask them for the length of the lines.

 

Have you reached out to m sprank yet ? I'm sure Mike would know.

I know the length of the lines that I need - OEM OBK (I can post the measurements if someone needs them), and the type of fittings needed for STI calipers. I do not know if he knows the length of the lines for different kits on the market. Good to ask him anyway. Thanks!

I have TechnaFits all around for my 2006 OB. It should be known they haven't been put on yet. It should also be known they'll be going on rear LGT calipers because I'm doing an entire brake swap. I have LGT-specific TechnaFits for the front ans OB-specific for the rear. In theory this should bolt up nice.

 

Hope this info could be of some use.

Is your OBK lowered? I read you have to use OBK lines in the back even if you lower it. But not sure on the front. Asking because you plan to use LGT lines in the front.

My measurements with STI gold calipers show that even with big brakes the OEM OBK lines are long enough. The only issue is the rear caliper fitting shape.

Do the LGT rear lines have straight neck fitting?

I have a 2009 OBK.

Hi guys,

can you use the OEM rear brake lines with STI gold calipers?

It looks like the length is Ok but the caliper line fitting is different: Legacy has an L shape while STI is straight to fit in the caliper fork.

Thanks

Hi guys,

I know this is Legacy forum , I also know that many Outback owners are in here because lots of stuff is the same.

Trouble is that brake lines are indeed different with Legacy being shorter due to lower suspension ride.

So for people that changed the lines on Outback, what did you use?

Thanks

I have not heard of any such conversion/kit to adapt a 18/19 control.

The first obvious question is it even mechanically fitting in a gen3 Legacy?

I tested a few cameras for both field of view, low light vision, image distortion, mounting style, good reviews, good price. I ended up with:

- Axxera AHV900 for front, installed under the Subaru emblem in the grill - Done

- Crux CUL-06 for rear, installed on a custom bracket on top of license plate, slightlly to the left (to allow operation of tailgate handle). The license plate is installed on a Volvo license plate holder ($11) - work in progress.

Forgot to mention I have an Outback 2009.

Can someone here point me to the post that has someone actually cutting up a usdm model climate control from the stereo and their soldering?

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dual-hvac-double-din-xm-back-up-camera-finally-finished-48531.html?highlight=double+din

Have fun!

Oh, I see, the pad overhang ... I considered that as a maintenance item. Here is why.

Even with tinkering (described in the quote) you may still want to grind the outside edge of the pad every time you put new pads in. So if your wheels are large enough I would not considering modifying the brackets and just install the kit as it is.

Now some people do not grind the pad and just drive it. Some complain of a noise when it is wearing down some don't depending on the exact fitting on your car.

You can even skip the grinding, drive it, and if it makes noise, quickly remove the pads (it is really easy and fast with this kind of calipers) and remove the thin (1-2mm) overhang with a file or something, then as fast put them back.

The only other options to get big brakes aluminum calipers and not have pad overhang is to pay a lot more. If you have the money or a cheap source for those sti calipers you should not be reading this thread . I wouldn't.

If you have or plan to upgrade to aftermarket wheels on your Outback then it is plug and play with BWC FABRICATIONS brackets.

I'm trying to stay with the OEM wheels for the winter that's why my post about modifycations.

Probably many people have/will read this excellent thread and come away with the impression that it is possible and the desire to implement the "dual" screen view on their Legacy/Outback.

I to tried to do just that and I have bad news ... the current Pioneer head units no longer allow this kind of mirroring. They do have "Mirror" setting for the rear output but it is now limited to only video sources. That means that even navigation or rear view camera cannot be mirrored.

I'm thinking of moving and enlarging the upper hole to get a 14mm bolt in there. Kind of a mixed between BWC and CTSV bracket. That will bring the top caliper bolt 1mm [(14-12)/2] closer to the wheel center and reduce top pad overhang and pad misalignment.

I played a bit with this yesterday and the results are good and worth the effort. The pivoting produced at the top of the caliper is a lot more than the 1mm move on top bolt center position because the top of caliper is at the end of the pivoting "arm". The results are:

1. The caliper now has enough clearance at the top to work with my OEM 2009 Outback wheels (a 22mm spacer is still required to clear the spokes) AND flat weights inside the wheel. Before the weights were rubbing.

2. I can use my OEM spare wheel with the mentioned spacer. So even if I get new wheels that do not require spacers I can still use my spare with the spacer stored with the wheel.

3. The bottom outside edge of the pad is now fully on the disk

4. The top overhang of the pad is now a lot smaller. The pad is flush with the outside disk diameter but the disk has a bevel on the outside edge so there is still an "overhang" that will require some pad filling before install to prevent noises when it is wearing down. But that is minimal now.

I'm going to order the necessary tools and a new 14mm bolt and have a go on a spare spindle.

No sti rears for me. Too much money. I'm going WRX red calipers in the rear. I got the brackets already and RockAuto has the calipers at good price.

I also got the Cadillac calipers and brackets -the BWC ones. I'm thinking of moving and enlarging the upper hole to get a 14mm bolt in there. Kind of a mixed between BWC and CTSV bracket. That will bring the top caliper bolt 1mm [(14-12)/2] closer to the wheel center and reduce top pad overhang and pad misalignment. I have not experimented with this yet but I will this week to see if the 1mm change makes enough of a difference for the effort involved.