reknouse

All I needed was that first millimeter of movement. Because the other three attachment points were free, I was able to slip a butter knife up against the offending stud. I then re-inserted and cranked down on the two bolts and the other stud nut. This created enough leverage to crack the stuck stud free. Leverage is my friend.

Doing a clutch job on 1992 Legacy L. I have all connections to the transmission removed and out of the way. The car is up on jack stands. I have both a transmission jack and a 3 ton jack. On this model, rather than have two long bolts at the bottom of the bell housing, it has two long studs. The passenger side came away rather easily. The Driver's side appears to be rusted in place. To make matters worse, the steering linkage is in the way. I have been careful not to try prying as that damages the bell housing seam. The transmission jack is positioned under the trans to prevent any sudden fall. The engine is strapped to the firewall and there it a wood block between the engine and fan housing. I have tried the following: Shoving the trans around from the tail. 2. Lifting the tail using the jack. 3. Applying PB Blaster. 4. Hammering the end of the stud. 5. Replacing the nut and torquing it. 6. Applying heat. This caused smoke from the starter port so I suspect rear main seal. Any ideas?

Thanks, I figured it out myself. The key is to thoroughly clean the thing so you can see the tab to lift. It doesn't help that the wire is so short that you can't get a clean look at it.

I am doing an clutch repair on my 1992 Legacy L Standard Transmission. The electrical connector to the O2 Sensor is giving me fits. I see how it goes together but can't seem to get it apart. It is a four prong connector with three prongs in use. It appears to have three snap lugs all of which need to be compressed before it will come open. I don't want to damage the connector because it needs to close up properly for the O2 sensor to work properly when I put things back together. Any ideas?

Don't know the details. I just know that the drive shaft is not in the vehicle and is in storage. So I have a front wheel drive car. I would not attempt to have the rear wheels engaged without making sure that all wheel drive functionality can be restored properly and that all four tires are replaced.

This car was sold new in Albuquerque, NM. I got it from a friend in Dixon NM. So it has always been in this neighborhood. The maintenance record is impressive. The 4 wheel drive was disconnected a while back, so it is front wheel drive at the moment. I still have the drive shaft. I may take it down to Mexico and get it rehabbed.

I live near Santa Fe, NM. Just recently got a 92 legacy wagon. I used to own a 88 Merkur XR4Ti so I am very used to maintaining a querky car. (DIY Head gasket three times. Timing belt twice. Front suspension bushings once) The Merkur owners group was very helpful, so I am glad to find a similar forum for this car. The rear tire needed had a nail in it which was showing up as a slow leak. The wheel was frozen to the hub. So I applied WD40 liberally, backed off the lug nuts 1/16" and backed up and hit the breaks hard. I carry a puncture repair kit so the entire cost of repair was $5. I will be looking on this forum for tips, parts and an opportunity to share what I learn.