Kazsmir

Searched the forums but didn't come across much.

I have a full bolt on '06 specB, and she's left me stranded a handful of times in the past year and change.  Would be running fine and then after a long spirited drive in warm weather, she would just die with no fuel pressure (have an aeromotive FPR and pressure gauge and it would read in the teens to 0, where 42 was normal).  

I thought it was the FPCM so I ordered a new one.  She died on me yesterday after I had been driving in steady traffic for 45 minutes; pulled over, FPCM was hot to the touch, swapped it out, car fired back up, made it 100 yards and died again.  It barely started and roughly idled at like 20psi of fuel pressure but had no power and wouldn't rev up under throttle.  Eventually the car died and would not restart.  

Previously after sitting for an hour and change, the car would start up and run fine for a week or so; this time no dice.  Next day she still won't prime and I did verify I have 12v on the leads to the fuel pump, but its not priming; I'm guessing the pump finally died after 2 years / 20k miles.  Ordered a new pump and a hardwire kit; checked all the connections and I don't see any burnt connectors or anything as others have posted in the past.  

Is there anyway to check the pump inside the car without pulling it out?  Like checking for resistance, continuity, etc?  TIA

Yes I searched, and no I have not yet found anything.

Last February my upstream O2 sensor in the header fouled out during a stint of snow and ice here in Texas. I don't run the lower engine cover as it was pretty saturated, so the snow/ice/moisture fouled up that O2 sensor, so I replaced it. We have another ice storm the other week again here in Texas, and afterwards my specB started surging lightly while at constant speed, the A/F ratio moving between 12 and 18 while at constant throttle. I have no codes, and she starts and drives fine, no knock, still have full power. I had Autozone replace the O2 sensor under warranty thinking it was the upstream O2 again getting fouled, and at first it seemed to resolve things, but the light surging and A/F readings fluctuating at constant speed has resurfaced. I'm guessing it's possibly the downstream O2 sensor going out?

Thoughts? I have no other issues, and really it's more of an annoyance than an issue, just trying to figure out what is going on, thanks!

Awesome to see. I might be in the 'needs a new motor camp' here pretty soon. Did you machine the heads and change gasket prior to installing the new motor or was that already done prior to purchase? Or did you just drop it and rock it?

I didn’t open up the long block at all. I spoke to the reseller and was able to chat with the original owner (car was being parted out) and it was estimated to be about 4-5 years old with only 17k miles on the engine. So I dropped it in as is, swapped over necessary parts (engine came from an ‘06 STI) and added the go fast bits and rocked it.

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What engine component had let go, do you know. Your symptoms sound identical to mine. First couple random stalls were spaced out 6 months apart, now they’ve happened four times in the last month.

Still haven’t torn the old block down. Son had an ‘05 GT with 170+k miles. He’s going to rebuild my old block and put it into his Legacy. I’m suspecting Ringlands

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Modifications

- Cobb SF Intake

- Mishimoto Induction Hose Kit

- Blouch TD06-440XT 10cm^2 Turbo w/ HPD Turbine Billet Wheel

- AVO Top Mount Intercooler

- AEM Electronics 340lph Hi Flow In-Tank Fuel Pump

- Aeromotive Fuel pressure Regulator

- Injector Dynamics Side / Top Feed Conversion Line Kit

- Injector Dynamics ID1050X Fuel Injectors w/ Top Feed Fuel Rails

- Stage 2 long block from an '06 STI that had previously dyno'd 470whp

- Forged CP Pistons - 99.75mm 8.2:1 Compression

- Carillo Rods with ARP Rod Bolts

- B25 Heads

- Mishimoto X-Line Performance Aluminum Radiator

- Mishimoto Radiator Hoses

- Mishimoto Racing Thermostat

- Grimmspeed 3 Port Electronic Boost Controller

- Grimmspeed Lightweight Underdrive Pulley

- NGK Iridium LFR7AIX Spark Plugs, 0.028" Gap

- IAG Unequal Length Header & Uppipe

- Invidia Catted Downpipe

- SPT Catback Exhaust

- Cobb Access Port with Custom Tune from Dotson Tuning

This netted me 362hp/369tq at the wheels. I’ve since upgraded to the Grimmspeed TMIC. Tuner said the AVO TMIC was my bottleneck. Should be able to squeak out a little more power. Injectors were at 65% duty cycle, so Tuner said both the turbo and injectors had more in them. This is on 93 Octane by the way.

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Nice! Can you explain how your car stalled at stops? My car quietly turns off every so often and I'm worried it's engine time. I've got a beater to save some money for a shortblock, but ya know these cars... always demanding more $$$

Basically I'd pull up to a stop sign or light and the revs would dip down below normal idle, she'd struggle and engine would shut off... it would previously do it once in a blue moon, and then it was doing it every single stop. I had to increase the idle RPM on the access port by 150 without AC and 250 with AC to get it to stop "most" of the time... but it would still do it on occasion. Oil consumption was also increasing... she was eating 2-3 quarts per 2500 miles, depending on how hard I was driving her, even with an AOS. ;( Had 30psi on Cyl 4... 120+ on the other 3.

This wasn’t the final run... was probably number 5 or 6 of 13... she wasn’t yet fully dialed in but sounded amazing!

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Had a rough day a little over a month ago when my spec.B started stalling at stops... finally decided to check compression and found Cyl 4 was low...

Started searching for a used engine and happened upon a used built long block out of a 2006 STI. A few weeks or waiting on parts and a couple more weeks of work and she lives!

She was previously tuned and dyno’d at ~260hp/290tq. This past Monday she was retuned and dyno’d at 362hp/369tq at the wheels at Dotson Tuning in Fort Worth, TX.

Not bad for a 14 year old Subaru!

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ask the tuner

 

what year is the car? Do you need fuel rails for 1000/1050 cc?? Might be unnecessary, especially if you have 07+ which has oem topfeeds. So if you set on getting the rails, I would get bigger injectors.

'06 spec.B, and yes you can find side feed 1000/1050cc, but I may decide to go bigger in the future, so I went with Top Feed Rail Conversion...

I have been speaking with the tuner who tuned the car previously and will be tuning it this time as well. He's approved the list for an efficient 440hp at the crank. It's my daily currently, so I'm not looking to get super crazy.

Rails not needed, I would do a 1.5XTR in 10cm rather than the 440XT. But, you say, the 440XT is needed to fit the stock intercooler the AVO replicates. I will tell you, nothing in the stock footprint will properly cool anything in that power range! You are trying to put 10lb of shit in a 2lb bag. You need to be thinking minimum GRB TMIC with suitable ducting or better, a FMIC at this point. And please, ditch the UELH. That robs you of so much power and efficiency. ELH or go home.

I'm old school and a little nostalgic... I like the rumble... I'm not going for max gains at this point, but rather a modest, reliable setup and tune. Shooting for 440HP at the crank, which is where the turbo peaks out. When and if the B is no longer my daily and a weekend fun car, I'll probably go bigger, and at that point you're right, the AVO and UELH are sub optimal... and I will look to go FMIC and KillerB or something else EL. I appreciate the feedback and recommendations!

Found this post and it’s epic... have a couple of supporting accessories questions...

What’s on order:

Used Stage 3 Long Block (dyno’d 500hp on 93, 17k miles)

Blouch 440XT w/ HPD(TD06) and 10cm

ID 1050X Injectors

ID fuel rail

IAG TGV Deletes

IAG UEL Headers

Mishimoto Turbo Inlet

Stainless Turbo Oil Lines

AEM Fuel Pump (E85 compatible)

Previously in use:

Cobb Instake

Cobb AP

AVO TMIC

Invidia Catted DP

SPT Exhaust

SB Stage 2 Clutch

Car previously dyno’d 260/290 at the wheels with a VH46 turbo and custom tune from Dotson at 19psi. Cyl 4 is down to 30psi as of last week, but still running strong.

What am I forgetting here? Pressure regulator required? Recommended? She’ll be going back to Kracken and Dotson for tuning after all the parts are installed and broken in.

Thanks SC.

I reached out to IAG about their systems and since I’m considering going E85/Flex down the road, they advised I stick with their street system, so I went ahead and ordered it and it should arrive Monday.

Thanks to all that contributed to this post!

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So I have a tuned spec.B putting down 260hp/290tq at the wheels. I'm experiencing a pretty good amount of blow-by, as I'm loosing oil at a higher rate than I'd like; no leaks, no smoke, but I'm running through oil between changes, so I'd like to get an AOS. The tune has her pushing 19psi with Cobb Intake & AP, 3" turbo back exhaust, VF46, AVO top mounted intercooler.

Based on the comments above would I be better off with the IAG Comp or IAG Street?

Did the matte black and flat clear treatment... ended up a little more gray than the existing HVAC trim, which was weird because before I sprayed clear it was WAY more black than the trim was an I was afraid it would be obvious... but it’s “close” now but not exact. Thought I’d taken a photo and was going to post it but realized I had not. Will post pictures a little later today.

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If your mirrors are not folding - you have no button.

 

Folding switch looks like attached picture. button is in the middle.

You don't have to buy the complete switch as on picture, but can just purchase "mirror folding switch". I think junk yard sellers will ask more for a complete mirror switch compared to price of new mirror folding switch.

Yeah I don't have said button... just a recessed place holder... ;(

The tab recesses in the HVAC panel don’t match up to the shifter trim being LHD versus RHD they were built for... I bought a spare shifter trim I just painted to more closely match the darker HVAC trim and I was going to trim down the tabs in the shifter trim to better fit the HVAC trim to align better... my gap is currently under the radio but above the shifter...

You can see the tab between the pieces in the gap. This is the original trim with my number plaque. I’m removing this one and setting it aside. Otherwise it looks pretty good to the untrained eye.

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The real question is are they JDM facelift power folding mirrors or just regular USDM facelift (non power folding) mirrors?

They are not power fold... at least I don’t have the button for them inside... so I assume they’re manual. ;(

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Previous owners (two owners before me) swapped the side mirrors and door handles on my spec.B. I’m trying to figure out what they came off of...

Darker photo is older, lighter photo is old as well, but how she currently looks. Mirrors are now black, and door handles are chrome... searched on the forums but couldn’t find any posts about the updates (owner that had it at the time was a member of the forum, skrolz).

Anyone know what model/year the mirrors may have come from?

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May have solved my own issue... sat in the car for a few minutes at lunch and watched the AP... wasn't doing to much... bumped the lower dash trim with my foot (I'm 6'2" with size 13 shoes, its not hard to bump it) and the AP blipped... reached down and bumped the AP/OBDII cable and it blipped again... apparently it simply was loose enough that when I'd go to work the clutch and bump the trim on occasion it was enough to jostle the connection and reboot the AP. Hopefully that's the end of it.

Feel pretty stupid right now honestly; I never touched that panel or anything near it during the stereo install, but I guess I hit it enough with my foot to finally knock it loose, coincidentally when I spent the weekend installing the stereo.

Not sure about the engine data, but SVXDC has a harness adapter that lets you connect steering wheels controls (iDatalink Masestro) to the factory stereo wheel. I don't believe it will pass any engine data along though. ;(

http://ae64.com/images-e41/i85_SWC.jpg