anarchyx34

Firstly make sure your rear suspension bushings are in good shape, especially the upper control arm inner bushing. These are notorious to wear out and can cause excessive negative camber.

 

Secondly, I have the same problem on my car, but only on the right side. I haven't been able to figure out why without throwing parts at it. I suspect it's either the knuckle or upper control arm that might be slightly bent. I don't know what the above poster is talking about that it's an easy adjustment. There is no rear camber adjustment from the factory, only toe, which has a slight influence on camber but nowhere near that much.

Well ideally you should have the heads machined but tbh when I was a subaru tech we rarely ever did unless the car overheated. You can check it with a straightedge and feeler gauges if you need some reassurance. The service manual explains how. Don't use the copper spray. Use STI gaskets, Felpros or Six Star MLS gaskets.

 

As far as cleaning the surface, use a die grinder with 3M blue pads. You can use a high speed drill if you don't have a die grinder. You need this kind of attachment https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/68135656?fromRR=Y and these pads https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00222877

 

Get plenty of pads as they clog easily but aren't abrasive enough to cause any damage. You should be able to get them at most auto parts stores. Getting everything very clean is important.

 

Honestly the head gasket job isn't too bad on these. Oh and plan on pulling the motor if you didn't already know. You can do it in-car but it just makes it a lot more difficult.

I used this one since it was the only thing available to me during covid lockdown and I'm lucky enough to live near a Microcenter.

 

https://www.microcenter.com/product/466073/nte-electronics-24mm-potentiometer-100kohm-1-4w---2-pack

 

The 3rd pin just isn't used. I only used the middle and right one.

Yeah I did see that there were a lot of complaints about the relay but that wasn't the case here. The evap temp sensor was clearly out of wack.

Bumping this thread back from the dead just to say that I found it very helpful. My A/C was cycling at 48F so I did what this guy did and it worked awesome. Now it's cycling at 38F. Super easy fix.

Doesn't have to be perfect just as long as it's not cracked/torn. Preferably Regal Blue Pearl (the dark blue) so I wont have to respray it but I'll take any color.

Under the d/s dash behind the lower panel.

I just had my glovebox out and dash side panel off while doing some audio install stuff on my car and I can't see how it's remotely possible to replace the inflator with the dash still on. You can't even see the airbag let alone get to it. Unless there's something I'm missing because I tried to figure out how they might do it.

I ended up installing them on the sail panels using the included angle mounts.

 

 

HUGE improvement in imaging. I wasn't expecting that much of a difference from just a small location change.

All fixed! I ended up going with the Dorman driveshaft. It fit like a glove. I did need to drop the rear section of the exhaust though, there simply was no way to get the driveshaft out otherwise. That bearing was completely shot and probably wouldn't have lasted much longer.

That's actually really clean and doesn't look like it'll effect practicality much.Can you still lift the spare tire cover?

'05 Legacy Limited Wagon. For those of you who have installed aftermarket amps under the passenger's seat. How the hell did you do it? My amp is about 1/2" taller than what the factory sub would be, and I just can't even see how the factory sub would even fit under there. I can barely stick my hand under the seat (looking from the rear). I'm striving for a stealth install and the only other place I can think to install it is in the foam tray under the spare tire cover.

 

I'm concerned about overheating the amp installing it there. I can bolt it to the back of one of the rear seats but that might cause a practical concern should I need to carry something that requires folding down the seats.

 

Any suggestions?

 

The amp is a JBL GTO-3EZ and is 11-15/16 x 9-11/16 and 2-5/8" tall.

I've got a full aftermarket audio setup including the JDM double-din kit and I'm not looking forward to bringing this in. Obviously I'll remove the radio and JDM kit but there's a lot of non-original wiring I don't want the tech to have to deal with.

Do you have automatic/electronic climate control? Because when the blend door actuators go bad they definitely can make a gurgling type sound.

Figured it out. It’s the driveshaft carrier bearing.

 

I put the car on jackstands and ran it with the wheels off the ground. Noticed the sound doesn’t occur in FWD with the parking brake on. Crawled underneath with it running and sure enough that’s exactly where the sound was coming from. I took a nice video for you guys too!

 

Anyway just to further verify I hosed it down with PBlaster and it STFU.

 

So as far as replacement options:

• Amazon has a Dorman driveshaft with grease fittings on the u joints for $348 shipped prime.
  
• Used driveshaft that might have the same issue in the future for $90 - $150.
  
• Send it off to a driveshaft shop to be rebuilt which might take days and end up costing the same as the Dorman one at the end of the day.
  

 

I’m thinking the Dorman shaft might be the way to go here unless any of you have some horror stories you’d like to share. I'm a little confused about fitment. Car-part.com shows different driveshafts for cars produced before 4/2005 and after 5/2005. My car was made in '04. However Subaru only shows a difference with a spring washer.

 

The driveshaft part # supercedes to 27111AG05A which fits all nonturbo 4EAT Legacies from 05-09 and also the Spec B oddly enough. I'm assuming there really is no difference between the year split and that any of them should work? A local salvage yard has a 53k mile one from an '07 Legacy for only $96. That's cheap enough for me to consider even though I'd rather go for a new one so I don't have to deal with it again.

 

 

I'm guessing my non-turbo '09 is probably similar to your '05, you should probably be able to sneak the heatshield around the exhaust without unbolting the exhaust. I think when I did it on my car, I think I removed and installed it towards the passenger side.

 

Should be the same back there. I can see how it might be possible but i think I might drop the exhaust anyway so I can remove the stupid trailer hitch the PO put on that scrapes on everything. You cant get to the bolts without getting the mufflers out of the way.

I'm going to inspect the driveshaft when I have time. Interestingly enough I didn't think to try and see if it makes the sound in reverse.

 

Last time I was under there it looked like the exhaust had to come out to even get the heat shield off. Not true?

So I changed the r/f wheel bearing. Fortunately the replacement was drama free. Everything came apart and went back together easily. Oh and I also discovered that my r/s outer CV boot is just starting to tear, and the axle seal on that side is also starting to leak. Will the fun ever end?

 

Anyway, more importantly. That wasn't the problem.

 

Still does the same thing. This is why I'm not a fan of the shotgun approach to automotive diagnostics. I'm not totally mad since the old bearing did feel a little notchy so it was probably going to need it eventually anyway.

 

I'm starting to suspect the driveshaft center-bearing for the simple reason that it definitely sounds like a bearing that's failing, sounds external, and doesn't change during turns/ braking. I'm going to run the car on jackstands and crawl underneath this weekend and hopefully I'll be able to pinpoint where this is coming from.

I remember being mortified my transmission/center diff was going as well while hearing that grinding noise. The sound appeared to be coming from under the center console.

 

 

Yes that's what was messing me up. When it's making the scraping sound it's clearly from the right side, but the whistling/squealing noise sounds like just under the console. Not sure how close it is to outright failing but I'm thinking of parking the car until Sunday when I can replace it. It sounds like it's getting worse.

Your alignment sheet looks like mine! Mine has about 3 degrees negative camber on the right rear, and 1 degree negative on the right front. I also had excessive toe-in on both rear wheels. For that I used a set of Megan Racing adjustable toe links, but it still didn't explain why so much negative camber on both right side wheels.

 

I ended up running into the PO of my car (he recognized it) and got to chatting. He'd mentioned hitting a pothole on the right side so hard that he blew out the rear shock (he'd installed new shocks). I'm guessing that explains the where the camber is coming from. The question is what ended up getting bent. I'm figuring the knuckle/trailing arm assembly might be slightly tweaked or possibly the subframe although I'm not sure how to measure that. I've already replaced everything (bushings were shot anyway). I might pick up a trailing arm next time I go to the pick-n-pull and see if that takes care of it.

I went ahead and ordered a new Timken bearing since I'm a bit short on time and only have one day off in which I can address this. Hopefully that's the problem lol.

Someone else on the Outback forums also suggested a wheel bearing. It actually makes sense, I've just never heard a wheel bearing make a sound like that in my life. No changes around turns. It sounds like the bearing might be rusted/dry. If it is the wheel bearing that's good news. I definitely wasn't looking forward to replacing the transmission even though they're rather cheap used.

'05 Legacy 2.5i 4EAT.

 

Here's my video:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1smdJ1KqBBPQMvTogR2uJP_c9HYQEpRwD/view?usp=sharing

 

Ok so for the past few weeks I've been hearing this sound on and off. It's like a whistling/squealing noise but sometimes presents as a light scraping sound. Sometimes it does both.

 

Conditions:

- Seems to be temp related. Happens mostly in colder weather although it's hard to tell because it's just been plain damn cold out every day here.

 

- Usually goes away after exceeding 30 or so mph.

 

- Usually goes away after the first few miles once things get heated up, although it didn't do that today. Today it appeared after about 20 minutes of highway driving.

 

- Comes and goes. Sometimes I wont hear it for days.

 

- Speed dependent only. Gear doesn't matter, coasting in neutral doesn't change things, AWD or FWD does the same thing. Throttle position makes no difference.

 

- Turning/braking doesn't seem to change anything.

 

- Sounds like it's coming from the front right of the car although sometimes it feels like the center front. Sometimes I think I hear two different, distinct noises on both the left and right.

 

Now. I've also had what I believe to be a pinion bearing that sings a bit at around 50mph for months. I don't believe this is related. That sound hasn't changed at all. I'm also not 100% sure it's the pinion bearing. Diff oil looked good last I changed it although I might drain it again to see if there's anything of concern going on in it.

 

I ran the car on jackstands and it sounds like it's coming from the right side. I was working by myself so it was hard to get the wheels spinning at speed and listen at the same time. I also had to hold the left side wheel from turning because the diff was favoring that side. It sounded like the scraping/hissing was getting louder as the right side wheel sped up but I was on the left side of the car. This test was kind of inconclusive so I might have to try again with someone else to help me and perhaps crawl underneath.

That came out really nice. I went ahead and ordered my component set.

I've poured through a bunch of old threads on this very subject and what I'm taking away from all of this is that the stock tweeter location sucks and that a lot of people are suggesting to go with coaxials. This makes sense except for one reason, the speaker location is all the way at the bottom of the door. I can't see how this is going to work with passengers legs being in the way, as well as the driver's side being so far off axis. I could be wrong though!

 

Being that the latest discussions of this subject are nearly 10 years old I was wondering if anyone had a fresh take on this. If you have coaxials how is it working out for you? I'm not trying to achieve a perfect setup here. I know I won't get great imaging in this car, but I'm feeling that this one choice can have a dramatic impact on the final result. I'm ready to order speakers and I'm not sure which way to go.

Yeah true. I didn’t even think of that.