BlueGT05

The part number I ordered for the driver's side is 72131AG27A. Not sure now if it's same as passenger.

I know this is old but it came up in my searches and I just dealt with this exact issue - driver side actuator replacement.  If anyone's interested, my 05 LGT Limited showed a part number no one has in stock (72131AG08A) and the local Subaru dealers came up with another one that no one has either (72131AG12A).  I took a chance and tried the 72131AG27A (about $92) which had come up in my searches since I was able to get it locally and it fits and works perfectly.

Replacing it was a bear (scratched up my hands a little), but I managed to do it using this procedure:

1) Remove the lower panels on the driver's side and the left side of the center console area (have to remove center parts and ashtray)

2) Remove the controller box thingy mounted next to the steering column that has 3 plugs going into it (keyless entry won't work without this)

3) Move some wiring harnesses out of the way as needed and the white air tube

4) Reach up and undo 2 screws on the bracket holding the actuator to the hvac system (the lowest one and the one facing the front of the car) - I couldn't reach the top one

5) Undo the 3 screws holding the actuator to the bracket and remove the actuator (note the position of the white plastic guide for the vent) - you'll need a very short philips for this

6) On the new part, remove the bracket and use those same screws (to ensure they thread right) and reach up inside and attach it to the bracket that's still in the car, make sure the metal post goes into the slot on the white arm

7) Reattach the bracket to the 2 mounting points you removed it from

Put everything back!

 

I called the Subaru dealer and they identified the H501SAG010 harness as what they thought would work. I guess we'll see tomorrow!

Just to clarify, on an 05 Legacy with a Gentex 453 would the H501SAG010 harness work or would it need modification?

 

Thanks!

Fuel/Air sensor, bank 2:

Turns out it was a lot of little things: adjusted valves, verified timing, removed remaining banjo filters, cleaned VVT solenoid, smoke tested a second time (while hot) and found slight leak at both fuel rails, raised rails and cleaned injector pots, applied lube to seals and torqued rails to spec, cleaned intake system and combustion chamber. An air leak at the rails was causing everything to be off with the a/f mixture.

 

And now no backfire! Whew!

It's my usual shop and they do a lot of Subarus, Hondas, Toyotas, and other cars. Turns out the previous owner of this car also brought it here, so they know most of its history and installed the new radiator, new turbo, removed the banjo bolt screens some time ago.

Yes, smoke test was good too.

They're going to check the cams and timing again - and some other sensor.

Well, wiring is ok, leak down test is good, MAF is good, O2 sensors are good.

They can't tell data-wise what's happening except it's hitting a lean condition on cylinder 4, more often when cold.

It started recently and has gotten worse over time.

Runs fine at idle, only cuts out and backfires under what seems like moderate acceleration with boost. Pop, pop pop, and then it's good.

I'll have him check the wiring to #4 coil.

We've swapped injectors around, always cylinder 4.

They're going to try a leak-down test...

My 2005 LGT is at the shop right now, and they're trying to figure this one out.

Under steady or heavy acceleration, moderate boost I get a pop, pop with power loss, then it works. Often doesn't happen again until next time I drive, but has been getting worse.

Sometimes flashes the CEL for 10 sec, then goes out, sometimes gives a cylinder 4 misfire code w/flashing Cruise light.

 

Have tried swapping injectors and coil packs, problem stays on cylinder 4.

 

Compression test ok, smoke test for boost leak ok, fuel/air sensor was destroyed on cylinder 4 (probably from backfire), replaced, swapped up-pipe w/catless, still backfired so swapped back.

 

 

Discovered someone put in the wrong plugs, changed.

Still backfires occasionally.

 

They don't think it's a burnt exhaust valve because compression was ok.

The mechanic mentioned that it's backfiring through the intake.

 

I've scoured the forums on many sites, any other ideas?