Alexmed2002

4 hours ago, Falcor said:

Got the cat yesterday. Interesting thing is they sent me the Magnaflow one instead of the house brand. Not complaining since I was about to spend $200 more for the same thing. 
 

Looking forward to getting it installed next weekend.

Can't go wrong when they mess up an order that benefits you .

7 hours ago, OldNick said:

BUT......I will start to once again deconstruct the front end of the car.

 

You could just go under the wheel well and peel back the liner to get quick access to the back of the headlights, but it is narrow if you have big hands. It would be easy to just quickly check the wires at least.

I would start with wiggling the bulbs/wiring and see if anything happens. These cars came with halogen bulbs and not HIDs so that why issues tend to happen.

24 minutes ago, Falcor said:

Update, they actually answered the phone yesterday and the guy was surprised the order was 2 months old. Said he would check on it and call me back. He never called back. 

 

I'm canceling the order on Monday. This is unacceptable.

That's a bummer, but I would definitely cancel.

1 hour ago, Scubaboo said:

The most common culprit I've read for sudden abrupt shifts like that is the transmission valve body.  Specifically a malfunctioning speed sensor on the valve body.

Replacing the entire valve body is the usual fix.  Sensor itself not available from Subaru but generic replacements are available online and been tried, though I've read a few reports of the problem returning and having to get a new valve body to fully resolve.

 

There were also issues with the torque converters too, so that's another thing to check.

19 hours ago, Loya1ty said:

I regret selling my Legacy officially lol Truck def gave off the hemi tick this morning, so I've got quite a laundry list of repairs that are creeping up on urgent status that I can't really be dropping a few thousand at the shop so will probably be doing it myself.. except it'll probably take me a couple of weekends. That 3rd car would be nice right now lol. Any chance anyone is selling for around 4-5k?

Ah the Hemi tick. That's a real bummer to hear. How many miles and years are on it?

7 hours ago, Point37 said:

if the brakes are being applied in my subaru then they make some very good pads cause i think i've only had the brakes done 2 or 3 times over 235k miles

When I had my legacy I got like 60k-80k miles out of them, until I had a caliper go bad on me. They lasted a while surprisingly.

43 minutes ago, Point37 said:

thanks...i'll check that website out when the time comes...do you know what that corner braking feature is called?...i'd like to read up on it a little

Here's a link to it.

https://insidemazda.mazdausa.com/the-mazda-way/technology/g-vectoring-control/

3 hours ago, Point37 said:

good to know about the usa/japan models...also good point about the head room...i think i had read that as well but haven't sat in one yet...i am the same height so i'm probably going to remove it from my list...i didn't know that the brakes are used on turns either...seems like a waste...the legacy brake pads have lasted a long time i have found...i'll probably pick up a fumoto valve and do my own oil changes...i was looking at the accessories for the cx-5...any recommendations for OEM vs aftermarket accessories?...i would get mud flaps, all weather floor mats, cargo tray, trailer hitch and the cargo cover...i'm thinking smartliners for the mats and cargo tray...trailer hitch OEM...cargo cover aftermarket...mud flaps i'm not sure if i would go OEM or aftermarket

If you drive the CX-5 you'll feel a difference in the steering that comes from the brakes being slightly used on some of the turns, but I do wish the brakes lasted longer as my girlfriend's car needed all four pads + rotors and the brake fluid done at 38.5k miles. I got my car certified with 24k miles and they already had to put new pads on the front and now at 36k miles I'm gonna need to do my rear pads + rotors and brake fluid. I suspect that since I have the Turbo model it contributes to quicker wear. I've gotten all of my OEM accessories from BAM Auto Parts for a lot less than directly from Mazda's website.

16 minutes ago, Point37 said:

thanks...i am leaning that way at the moment...it seems like i can get most of what i want out of it and i can get leather and seat memory at a lower price point than other choices...it will have more cargo room than the legacy...only 1.8 cu ft of volume less than the outback...no cvt and carplay would be nice as well...i also like that the rear seat is a trifold vs 60/40...they are less expensive than a rav4 or crv...cx-50 have to get into a higher trim for the same options i want, i hear the seats are not that comfortable and there isn't much more cargo room than the cx-5 (+0.6 cu ft)...also there's a mazda dealer 1 mile from home and i had great luck with my 05 mazda 6 into high mileage...hoping the legacy will top the 6's mileage when i unload it

i would love a tsx wagon but i'd be going back in tech as well as have to find one down south that hasn't seen salt...as far as sedans go the only 1 that would be decent would be the integra...the integra is basically the same as the civic but it does have the option for memory seats...i was surprised by the amount of cargo room the civic hatch/integra has

Don't forget that the CX-5 is made in Japan so the quality is superb versus the CX-50 that is american made and considered to be a lot cheaper with its interior. It's actually smaller in terms of head room compared to the CX-5. I'm 5'11 and when I sat in the CX-50 my head was pretty much touching the top when I was sitting comfortably in one. The only "complaint" I have with the CX-5 is that the OEM tires you get only last like 35k-40k miles and the brakes don't last as long since the car uses them very slightly on turns to maintain a smooth feel to the steering wheel. Other than that it's been great since the Mazda dealer near me does a special where they do a full synthetic oil change + tire rotation for around $90. 

I think that the CX-5 might be your best bet. Matches everything your asking for and while it's not equipped with the biggest volume in the cargo area for the class, it certainly is plenty if you utilize it correctly. We have three of them in the family and they can take a lot of wear and tear. My girlfriend literally stuffed an entire room worth of stuff and drove from MA to Florida and still got great gas mileage. I have a CX-5 Turbo and that thing is a blast to drive, and I still get like 21 MPG while driving around town in the winter. It drives so much better and is more unique than a bland Toyota or Honda which are more like utilities and being made cheaper now.

5 hours ago, Loya1ty said:

Everything is overpriced these days .

Ain't that the truth. Certified Pre-Owned is better than new in my opinion.

51 minutes ago, creep_nu said:

man everyone's getting out of the game =(

It's sad but as long as people are keeping ICE vehicles alive that's what matters (to me at least).

6 hours ago, Loya1ty said:

Considering getting back into a Subaru  The truck has been nice, but I've taken care of most of my home improvement supply hauls and don't have much use aside from picking up free shit on facebook lol I figure a 5x10 trailer will be plenty for my needs if I can land a 3.6r outback. Found this one: https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/4S4BSETC6H3243517. But idk if it was just a really poor cleaning/detail job or if it got water inside at some point based on the photos. Either way, looking around for a wagon as long as I can get a good offer on the truck. Happy 2024 car hunting all!

Too overpriced with the age + mileage in my eyes...

It could the resistor for the blower motor, or the blower motor itself on its way out. Best way to check is by looking underneath the glovebox.

21 hours ago, NVAKeith said:

eBay has cheap stick on door handle covers in chrome, black or “carbon fiber”. I put those on the driver side so I didn’t have to look at the issue everyday. 

That's how I'd go about the issue as well lmao.

3 hours ago, creep_nu said:

been happening to mine for a few years...hood, a pillars, roof.  subaru's never been known for their paint quality, but i've never seen laquer peel like on this gen.  definitely is quite sad, but i don't have the funds for a whole new paint job so....i've just learned to live with it.  you can do some at home fixes, but...eh. 

When I had my Legacy there was one time where I was power washing it and a huge chunk of paint came off the rear quarter fender. I learned just how bad the paint was after that...

Definitely sounds like the alternator for sure. At that point with the age of your battery, I would consider changing it along with the alternator to be on the safe side.

That's awesome to hear. Sounds like a great place!

3 hours ago, Falcor said:

Yup. All new OEM parts. I bought the parts and a local mechanic installed.

From what the dealership told me, nothing failed, but they did mention the guides were loose. They went through everything and put it back in time. Currently they are getting ready to start it up and confirm no damage was done internally. 

Waiting to hear their diagnosis. I have a feeling install was the issue.

I hope the local mechanic will honor the mistake if they didn't do the work correctly.

8 hours ago, bandapear said:

SOA talked with the dealer and they reduced the quote by half , i think it s a good deal still mulling about it

What year and mileage do you have on your car?

11 hours ago, Walla_b said:

thanks,kinda skeptical buying some auto stuff from amazon of late

There's been a lot of fake parts being sold as "OEM".

8 hours ago, DrD123 said:

With USDM cars, the 13-14 springs are definitely stiffer and a worthwhile upgrade.  For struts there are some options to tighten things up - lots of us have gone with Koni's (the cut-a-strut for the fronts and shocks for the rears).  Larger swaybars also help. (I have the 13 springs all around, Koni adjustables for struts, a 26mm front and 19mm rear swaybar and am pretty happy with the car as a daily driver. 

Outback components would probably work, but I think you need more than just struts and springs - looks like maybe the front swaybar, front/rear endlinks, and rear upper control arms?  could be some other stuff, too.

+1 on the 13-14 springs. They really nailed them during those years.

2 hours ago, creep_nu said:

if it were me...used OEM ones are all over ebay for $40.  i know used parts aren't everyone's bag though, and if it works it works, i just trust the manufacturer more than whichever company stamps them out

This is what I'd do if Amazon isn't good.

I would do the amazon one and if it doesn't work, just return it.