theclerk95

so what exactly do you mean it was diagnosed with 2 stage twin turbo system? 2 stage twin turbo is what came on the b4 and gtb models from factory. Are you having an issue with it?

parts aren't anymore expensive than any other Subaru for the most part. Most parts engine/drivetrain related will crossover between wrx's and other models. Partsouq is a great site to use when searching for parts. As far as tuning goes, project lambda is what I use. They're based out of Western Canada and its just a Bluetooth device that plus into the obd port and you use their software on a laptop to log and tune. Personally I would do all the maintenance and get it tuned for our gas first using lambda. and do a single swap if you're looking to get any power out of it

if you look under the dash on the drivers side there should be two black connectors. plug those in and turn the ignition on. The engine light should start flashing. long flashes are 10 and short flashes are 1. so example two long flashes and three short flashes would be code 23. Start by checking that out. Currently I am having similar issues with my legacy b4 and it has the code 23 for the maf stored but never actually throws a CEL. Replaced the maf, o2 sensor, fuel filter, smoke tested twice, and had the MAP and all the solenoids checked and it still hasn't fixed it. If you plug the green connectors underneath the dash as well and turn the ignition to on then that will put the car into test mode. you should hear the solenoids click and the the rod for the wastegate on the primary turbo should move as well as the exhaust control valve on the intercooler, and the exhaust control valve on the secondary turbo. Let me know if any of this helps! Also... did this happen before the Napol coil packs? I'm just wondering as I am starting to think that my issue is related to the Delphi coil packs I had put on the car about 2 weeks before my issues started.

It definitely makes some sense where it started getting the issue not long after switching to the Delphi coils. Local guy is parting out his legacy gtb so I'm going to grab the coils off his and give it a try so hopefully. And the shop had thought map or a solenoid so they switched out the whole solenoid box with one they knew was good and that didn't help unfortunately.

Hi everyone, I have an 01 legacy b4 have been having issues with it for quite awhile now. Car has a fmic, GFB recirc valve, Apexi pod filter, zerosports hardpipe, dw65c fuel pump, and a full decat. Have been experiencing issues since August with intermittent hesitation and lack of power. Car was dyno tuned back in June and after that I had an issue that the shop had lowered my redline to 6500 from 7000 without telling me. So thinking I had a misfire I replaced the plugs and coil packs as I asked them what it could be only to later find out the redline was changed. When replacing the coil packs I went with delphi coils from rock auto as I was a little strapped for cash. Car ran fine for about 2 weeks before I started getting my hesitation/lack of power and bogging issue. The car never throws a CEL and is obd1. It usually will store a code 23 for the maf sensor which has replaced with an oem one and still the issue persists. Have also recently replaced the fuel filter, the o2 sensor, boost leak tested, and checked all the solenoids. Thought maybe maf wiring to the connector but wiggling the connector doesn't affect rpm, voltage or fuel trims on my logging data. And when you unplug it the car dies. I would put my old oem coils in to try it out but stupidly tossed them out Was wondering if since I had replaced the coils a little before the issue if maybe it could be that the delphi coils just aren't up to that OEM quality or that they may have different dwell settings and was wondering if anyone else has had issues with delphi or could provide some insight on the issues I'm having? All help is appreciated as I don't wanna keep throwing parts at it and have had it to shops multiple times to have no answers. When the car does work it's great but when it doesn't it's annoying and insanely slow

yeah I tried tugging/wiggling them and the connector and didn't really notice any changes. I am gonna try and spray the connector with some maf cleaner, and move the harness into another position as it is between my intercooler pipe and my solenoid box so maybe its getting pinched somehow

and then here are the logs from the same tune with maf calibration changed to stocktuner_log_19-09-27_1204.csv tuner_log_19-09-27_1212.csv tuner_log_19-09-27_1216.csv tuner_log_19-09-27_1220.csv

well went ahead and did a log of idle, cruising and wot. Did one for the dyno tune and one for the same tune with the maf calibration put back to stock. Didn't help my issue unfortunately. Did notice the maf voltage drops below 0.3V for a split second in spots, and am thinking maybe there is a wiring issue on the maf harness. I had asked the shop to check out the wiring when I took it in to get diagnosed, I asked them to confirm after seeing this log and turns out they didn't because the voltage was fine at idle. I'm thinking there must be a break somewhere thats showing up when in motion or boost possibly. Here is the logs though with the dyno tune tuner_log_19-09-27_0710.csv tuner_log_19-09-27_0718.csv tuner_log_19-09-27_0723.csv tuner_log_19-09-27_0726.csv

oh okay figured that was just an idle one where the file size was so small. Will get some logs tomorrow and post them up. Thanks for checking that out. This was also before we did a smoke test and found my catch can setup was leaking air. Replaced it and smoke tested again and found no leaks, but issues still persist. Will try a log with the tune the way it is now, and then another log with the maf calibration set back to stock to see if theres any difference and post them

this would be one log that I had back from last month not sure if that shows anything of any use tuner_log_19-08-29_0719.csv

Hi yes I am able to, will do a quick log and post that up when it's done. And yeah I always thought maf calibration wasn't necessary for a stock intake. Looked back at old maps my old tuner did for me and he had never once adjusted the maf calibration

Hello everyone, I was just looking for some help on figuring out issues I have been having with my car since I got it dyno tuned back in June. The car is an 01 legacy b4 twin turbo with a stock ecu tuned using project lambda tuning software. Issues started when I couldn't get to my 7000rpm redline, which turns out the shop had accidentally lowered my redline to 6500. Reset the limiter back to 7000rpm. This was after I was told by them that it couldn't be the tune and was told to change my coilpacks and plugs. Fast forward to August and the car has issues with hesitation and goes into almost a limp mode intermittently. I notice that when running"good" i get 18psi on secondary turbo in 1st and 2nd gear but in 3rd it spikes up to 22 and then tapers. Everytime this happens there is no CEL but a stored code 23 for the MAF sensor. Have tried replacing the MAF, replacing the o2 sensor, smoke tested for leaks and checked all solenoids and the MAP sensor and all is good. I decided to look at my tune, and I noticed that my MAF calibration has been changed when the car is hitting boost, and me not knowing anything about tuning thought that maf calibration was only changed when running a bigger/aftermarket intake. My car has a fuel pump, full decat exhaust, and has been switched to a fmic with a recirculating bov, but is still running a factory maf and maf housing, so should the calibration not still be the same instead of being altered? and could this possibly be the issue I have been having with the car throwing the maf code and the occasional issue with hesitation? Thanks for any help in advance, as I really don't know much with tuning, and am just trying everything to get to the bottom of this issue.

So I actually decided to get the car smoke tested after I installed the o2 and the problem persisted. Almost immediately the catch can started leaking out of every seal. Seems the orings had rotted and the gaskets weren't doing their jobs either. Figure it must be the issue as it was leaking like crazy with just the pressure of the smoke machine, so I would imagine the amount of air that was leaking in or out would be a lot when the car was running. Had a new catch can at home anyways so replaced it today and am hoping in a few days of driving the code and problems stay away

Hi I have a 2001 Legacy B4 rev c auto. I am running a fmic, apexi intake, zerosports hardpipe, full decat, dw65c fuel pump, gfb recirc, and am dyno tuned. Am having some issues diagnosing my issues after receiving a code 23 for the MAF. I took the car to the dragstrip at the beginning of August and the first run out the car bogged down really bad and it boosted but felt like it wasn't getting any power. The car did switch over to secondary as well and at the right rpm's. It didn't throw any CEL's but after looking everything over and tightening my piping clamps, the second run was no better and the issue was still there with no CEL. Decided to plug in my connectors and the car had a code 23 for the MAF sensor. Forward to last week and my local dealer finally got an oem MAF in for me, I installed it and the car didn't feel much better and after less than 100km the issues were back and the code 23 was back (again no CEL). Had the dealer test the MAF to make sure it was getting enough voltage and was reading correctly, and they confirmed it was, and the looked at my o2 sensor voltage as I noticed after logging it it was a bit off. The o2 sensor at idle was jumping all over from 20mv up to 800mv down to 0mv and up 700mv... well you get the point. They confirmed the same, so I am going to replace the o2 Tuesday as I have a new universal Bosch at home. Just wondering if anyone else may have some insight on this issue, because if this o2 isn't the issue then I am not sure what to look for next. I had issues with the o2 before and it through a code 23 for that but it also had the code 32 which is for the o2 sensor when it did. Any help is appreciated thanks!

Well finally figured out the issue the other day. Had another tuner who did etunes for me last year look at the map. They lowered my boost and the redline by accident to 6500rpm. So he adjusted it for me. I contacted the shop and let them know and they kind of played it off as i should have known they made those changes.... Well no if you dont tell me that I won't. And they could have tols me when I first contacted them instead of blaming it on mechanical issues. Car works good now that i know the boost is lower and that the red line is back at 7k. Only issue is the idle can get rough occasionally. May be that its just relearning since the battery has been disconnected a lot due to trying to find the issue and resetting the ecu. Only happens every once in awhile and seems to be getting better