Southygarage

So I got some new rubber on the leggy a couple days ago. Some Lionhart lh-503. God they're horrible tires. What do you expect for $50 each right?

 

Sidewalls are so soft. I feel like I'm back in my5" lifted wrangler on 33s. I'm keeping them as spares. Cause the return shipping makes it not worth the refund honestly.

 

Decided to order a set of BFG Comp2 a/s instead. Lots of good reviews and I think they'll be a bit better suited for my spirited driving.

 

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If you tear it down to the shortblock, it should all fit in the trunk of your sedan. No way an assembled longblock is going in there, and I wouldn't put it in your back seat unless you want to wreck the interior.

Yeah I figured that'd be the case. Im not sure how I'd even get the long block into the car, imagine trying to swing it in there with an engine crane hah.

 

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So my local junkyard has a sick deal on engines coming this weekend, and I was thinking of finding an ej253 w/ avls to rebuild, seems to be a lot of them in the yard right now.

 

Anyone know how the hell I can transport it? Would it fit in the trunk of my leggy sedan? Back seat maybe? What if I pull the heads at the yard?

 

Thanks for any input.

 

Also, took care of my seized front caliper slide pins. What a PITA. filmed it though, and I'll be putting a video up on the YouTube in the next couple days.

So I cleaned and applied dielectric grease to the contacts for the maf, pedal position sensor, throttle position sensor, and main engine harness connector.

 

Put 100 miles on it and haven't had issues, even when smashing the gas uphill.

 

I'll update this thread if it happens again. But it seems to have just been dirty connections.

 

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So I have a stock 06 legacy 2.5i with the 4eat. Have an intermittent p0172 code (bank 1 too rich), mostly if I am city driving for a few days.

Then it goes into limp mode sometimes, seems like it happens mostly when I'm going uphill and lean into the throttle a but too fast. When it goes into limp mode, I get codes p0113(IAT high voltage), p0172(bank 1 too rich), p2138(pedal/throttle position sensor/switch d/e voltage correlation).

After it goes into limp mode, if I shut the car off, unplug maf, let it start, shut it off, plug it back in, then start again it goes away for some time. After I reconnect the maf and it is running fine again, I have code p0102(maf low input)

After about 5 miles the goes off and all the codes go away.

 

I'm going to do some runs with the Torque app today to try getting maf voltage, o2 voltage, throttle percentage, and anything else that looks out of the ordinary.

 

Any ideas what it could be?

 

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Cork gasket seems to be fine so far.

So here was my problem.

Saw it and pulled the pan. Tried to patch it and put it back on with a new gasket and well....

So I replaced the pan with a new one, also used a felpro cork gasket instead of rtv. Now it's leaking from the dipstick tube o-ring. There was only one when I removed it before. Looks like it takes 2. Hope that fixes it.

 

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Well if that's the case, guess I'm doing my oil pan gasket at the same time. Thanks man

 

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Did plugs and wires today. Runs a lot smoother. Also, plug tubes had tons of oil in em as per usual. Got the new gaskets, how fun is it doing those in car?

 

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I'm poor.. the usual scumbags offer up the full set of adjustable height/camber/damping coilovers for 300ish.

 

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Ah dang, got my hopes up. I did just take another look, doesn't appear to be coming from the seam where the Valve covers meet the head, or where the head meets the block. Filter is soaked, oil pan is soaked, crossmember is soaked. Had to add .5 qt since my oil change the other day.

 

Edit. Seems to leak much much slower when the engine is running. over 5 mins I see maybe 10-15 drips when it's off, and only 3-4 when it's idling. Not sure what that indicates if anything.

I'm headed back to my chop tomorrow, I'll take a look!

 

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The lady took it for a nice long drive to Waterloo yesterday, no issues.

 

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So I didn't get under it to check oil leaks, but I did my brakes and tires rotation.

 

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*Edit, it's super hard to see the rear corners of the head gasket, and that's exactly where the main oil drain passages are, at the corners. Subaru recommends a threebond product for sealing the oil pan gasket, and they list 3m ultrapro 08672 as an acceptable alternative. Oil passages picture below

https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/problems-maintenance/26890d1358252067-oil-filter-head-gasket-head.jpg

 

Thank you for this. I'll see if I can get a better view around the back side of the engine.

 

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I was planning to do the oil pan gasket after I do the valve covers up. But if I end up needing to raise the engine some to get to all the bolts for valve covers I may as well just do the oil pan too. I've watched some videos on both, we will see how it goes I guess.

 

Would The Right Stuff in black be suitable for the oil pan in place of Hondabond or a fiber gasket?

 

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Tube seals leaking on the EJ253 are common but not 1qt btwn gas tank fillups common.

 

 

 

If you are burning that much oil check the oil pan and head gasket area, if dry drop the manifold. If the manifold is wet that's the problem (Bad HG). Also check the PC Valve and intake tract, you may be suffering from excessive blow-by. If the intake box is wet with caked oil clean it up along with the PC Valve and inspect when you fill up again.

So I don't believe I'm burning any oil at all, except what drips onto my exhaust. When I check my oil level it still looks clean, no smoke out the tailpipe under any conditions. I'll pull my manifold tomorrow and swab inside near the head to see if it's oily.

 

here's where I've found oil, I'll get pics tomorrow if I remember.

 

Inside spark plug tubes

Entire oil pan is covered

Drips onto exhaust manifold

Crossmember/subframe is covered

Bottom side of engine between timing cover and oil pan

Oil filter

 

Does not appear to be directly coming from head gaskets or valve cover gaskets, based on what I can see from under the car with a pen light. My best guesses are spark plug tube gaskets, and oil pan gasket.

Edit. Oil pan has been removed at some point before I purchased, and red rtv was used as the gasket.

 

Edit. Also checked the intake box, filter, and resonator when I pulled them to do spark plugs today. No signs of oil or sludge.

 

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So the car started running rough at lower RPMs, 2500 or less. I decided to do spark plugs cause it's an easy fix and they haven't been replaced in about 25k according to the maintenance history the PO provided.

 

The clip inside the spark plug boot came off on the plug, so I believe that's my problem. Removed it, went to remove the plug and it's covered in oil, guess I found my oil leak.

 

I'm going to order the plug wires, valve cover and spark plug tube gaskets today and I'll do it all when parts come in.

 

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So far I have put 3k miles on it. I have to add about 1qt oil to the engine Everytime I fill the gas tank. Really need to track down this leak.

 

I'm scrapping my project car tomorrow so I'll have space in my shop to get some stuff done. Near future I'll be doing second oil change, pads and rotors, and get it inspected.

 

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Filled it for the 3rd time. Since I got the brake lines done it's been pretty solid. It had an oil leak, best I can tell it's coming from the oil pan gasket.. yaaaay

 

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This morning I'll be cleaning the engine bay before work so I can try to locate my oil leak when I change the oil tonight. Also going to clean up the electrical connections for the solenoids and switches in an attempt to remedy my codes.

 

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Hey all, i just got my first Subaru and wouldn't you know it, already having issues. This thread will mostly be for record keeping, but I'm sure I'll be asking questions and paint pictures along the way.

2006 Subaru Legacy Sedan, 2.5i 4at

Day 1- brake fun. Replaced the pads, they were worn down to the backing plate on all 4 wheels. Put 25 miles in New pads and blew it arear hard brake line. New brake lines installed at Gabriel's.

 

5/29/19.. got the car back. Drives great.

 

5/30/19.. first commute to work and home, 90miles round trip. Car did great until I was headed home. I was 75 miles in for the day and my CEL comes on steady and Cruise light is flashing. Pull over, check code, returns p0026 and p0028. Drove the car home. Got home and did some googling, tested resistance of solenoids pin-pin, and switches pin to ground. Both switches read 0ohms, and both solenoids read less than 15ohms. Oil level was .5 quarts below max fill line, topped off.

Just got word from the shop, should have my subie back on Tuesday with all new hard lines from the rear seats back, and a minty junkyard exhaust installed for me. I'll finally be able to go on a real drive with it. Owned it for 1 week now and only drove it for one day.

Just got my first Subaru yesterday, 06 Legacy sedan 2.5i 4at. drove it for 50 miles and did the usual new-to-you stuff. Brake pads all round, oil change, and air filter. Put 14 miles on it, going from my shop to my house, and wouldn't you know it a damn brake line bursts. And in typical Southy luck, my driver side muffler fell off and was lost forever, and the passenger side pipe broke off at the Y and was dragging on the ground. Found out it was all held on by a hose clamp.. anyway it was a rear hard line that popped. Blew out right next to the gas tank on Pass side. so I can't just patch in a new piece. Took it to the local guy and I'm having him do all new lines.

 

Today I got an oem catback, I plan to replace the straight bit with 2.25 pipe, add a joint before the Y pipe, sandblast, patch, and paint the entire pipe and mufflers. Thread coming for that.

 

Anyway, here is my first and only picture of the car, 10 miles in and parked next to the Fiance's Yota. Glad to be part of the forum, much love.

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/H8yQox1