cue

check fuse #34 in the engine bay fuse box.

Aside from that, removing the oil pan and and baffle plate should give you a good idea of how much and how big the chunks are

 

Here's a pic similar to the size I'm seeing, the specks at the bottom of the finger. And a pic I took looking in the block, you can see a few speaks floating. And it's very few, I've seen maybe 25 pieces total? It is very, very fine and I haven't seen anything bigger. I also seen a silver tinge to the oil in a kind of swirl. I've tried to take pics but cannot get anything that really represents what I've seen.

I looked at the interchange of parts for STI, not the RA short block. The crank was the same, the rods in the STI changed in the later ones, but the 5th Gen used the earlier EJ257 rods which is also share with most if not all the rest of the EJ255 motors.

 

The EJ255 in the 5th Gen is really a cross between the the EJ255 and EJ257 motors with smaller exhaust cams and the pre FA20 low mount turbo setup.

 

Yes most site ignore the 5th Gen or assume they are the same. I went to a place where they were parting out a 2010 GT. The engine had been taken and the transmission was laying on the ground. One of the E25 heads (5th Gen head) was on the ground. I made a comment to the seller about the head on the ground. He said something along the lines of that he bought the car for the transmission and didn't realize about the cable mounted shifter. He sold the engine to friend and did realize that this EJ255 was so different.

 

 

So what am looking at replacing since I found metal in the oil? I want to stress this is very, very fine pieces. But I shouldn't see any, right? I explained what I found to the guy at iag and he said it would be $7k in parts to replace what's necessary for a spun bearing (if that's where it came from) now this includes a stage 2 short block (~$3600) He said thats the only one he sells. The other $3400 would be parts contaminated from metal. That sounds excessive. So I'm trying to find a list of what components would need changed. I can go with a oem 2010 ej255 shortblock ($2k), oil cooler ($200), turbo?, oil pump what else am I missing?

I called iag performance. They guy there said that my engine (2010) is a cross or pre fa20. That no other engine will work for several reasons. Mentioned that my turbo wouldnt work. (Mines mounted in the bottom) I trust him. Alot of the info I find online isn't specific to the 2010 ej255. Most of its 4th Gen info. So, unless anyone else has 2 cents, looks like I'm back to the drawing board. I may be better off liken the above poster said and just out in a 5th Gen ej255 and not mess with the ej257. I know several of you have given advice and I need to reread the thread to make sure I haven't forgotten something someone has said.

 

Also, I'm pretty sure I mentioned it above. But, when I decided to look into the block from the oil pan. The oil had some glitter to it. Very faint. Anyway for me to make certain that there is metal in it? I know that will require changing out more parts. And Id rather not if I don't have to. I know I can send it off for analysis, but the oil I drained is in a pan that was already dirty. So I don't want a bad sample. There is maybe a couple of ounces in the block still but I'm sure they require more than that.

I would get a 5th Gen GT EJ255 for the oil pan bolts. You don't have to omit an oil pan bolt & drill tap the bolt for the extra bolt that 5th Gen have.

 

The 5th Gen also have different pistons/heads (E25) than the other EJ255/EJ257. It still isn't clear what our compression is 9.5:1 or 8.4:1. I kind of want to CC the 5th Gen heads and pistons, but I don't want to spend the money on the equipment, which I don't know if I will ever use again. (I am done with building up motors with ported heads/different pistons etc, I will just buy a faster car from the factory)

 

Is the ej257 or ra block not worth it for the better parts?

So here is my current plan. Please correct me if I'm wrong anywhere.

 

I'm going to have my local guy handle the heads. The problem here is he typically just adjusts the valve stem to correct clearance. What I've read today is that the head needs torqued to the block and timing belt installed to be accurate on valve lash. If that's the case, grinding the valve stem is out of the question. I did read where some have just ground the inside of the bucket where the stem seats on the underside of the bucket. Is that OK? Or am I better off having him measure valve clearance and order the buckets I need?

 

I pulled the oil pan to look around and saw that my oil is a little glittery (tried uploading a pic, not sure why some load and some don't. Same camera and computer) Whether it really needs it or not Im pretty sure I'd just assume spend $2k and have a new shortblock. I believe I'm going to order an ej257 shortblock from subaru ($2k). Is there any issue with my heads on that engine? I've read and a user stated on this thread there is a change in compression but it's minimal. Or am I better off ordering the ej255 short block?

yeah i'm wondering if the shop was confused and thought that they'd be pulling the engine too and doing everything rather than just having the heads brought in

 

Possibly. But I told them several times I had the heads pulled. I got a quote from iag and they wanted $2k. That's with all new valves, guides, springs and retainers.

are they talking about doing like a full head gasket job at that price, or is that just the machining? that's insanely high and i'd definitely go somewhere else if that's just for the machining...

 

Full job, new valves and all that go with that I'm assuming. I kinda started not paying attention after that price. Not sure what you mean by "head gasket job" the engine is out of the car.

 

My local guy said $400 to resurface, lash and adjust valves + parts like the valves. He said he doesn't mess with the buckets, he just grinds the valve tips to adjust clearance.

sheeeesh. what did you request to do to them?

 

Just redo them to reinstall. I'm assuming make them flat, New valves, seating and whatever else involved with that. This is a subaru specialty shop, not a dealership. They have the machine work done somewhere else.

 

I have a local machine shop very trusted been around for decades. Are these heads that special that he couldn't do the work? Or does it need to be some fancy shop with computerized equipment? I have no doubt he'd be substantially less.

 

The specialty shop has good reviews, I think they've been around for 10 yrs or better, I have no doubt they do good work. Just looks like they are going to be out of my price range.

To get both heads redone is looking at around $3k. Was not expecting that.....

As for the 325-350hp, is the whp or crank hp?

.

 

I guess whp? The stock # is 265bhp, I'm assuming that's crank hp? What's a realistic hp# for say $3k-$4k at the same time the car needs to reliable and a daily driver. And I know this next part is contradictary, but need to maintain some decent mpg. I've done a ton of reading, but I just get confused each time. So many different things to consider so they work together correctly.

I do think it is a burnt valve. My understanding is that most of these occur due to very small clearance left. When the valve has no clearance, the valve can no longer fully close. This in turn prevents it from transferring heat to the head. So, the valve gets way too hot and begins cracking or loosing little bits like shown here. Now, where did it go? Well, looks like it went through the turbo somehow (assuming catless uppipe)?? Or maybe it did not break as one big chunk but into small chunks and over time, it looked like that? Not sure.

.

 

Makes sense

Are you doing the work? Do you have other transportation? Get your money out, get some parts ordered, fix it the right way and enjoy the car.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

I'm doing most of the work. I'm hesitant about doing the actual rebuild. I haven't rebuilt an engine since high school 20 hrs ago. But considering it. I do have other cars. 6, actually. This car is my wife's. I drive a 2003 jetta tdi I've been playing with lately. I have her in my 2007 volvo s40. Kid takes pick from what's left. Either a 2004 Volvo xc90 or 2004 Silverado 1/2 ton. Last one is a 66 Mustang, but it's not a daily driver.

 

As far as time, I work a 7 on/7 off schedule. So 7 days off in a row is kinda nice to work on the fleet.

Alright, alright, alright.... Chip missing from the exhaust valve. Some said burnt valve. Is that what this is? I wouldn't think a burnt valve would be a chip missing. Also, where did the chip go and do I need to be concerned? Cylinder is fine, one of y'all said could be carbon and sure enough, that's what it is.

 

From here. I could just repair the head and slap it back on. Honestly, I would like to beef it up a little and increase some hp. 325-350 range. What are yalls suggestions to achieve this as economical as possible? I have $7k set aside. Obviously, I don't want to spend all of it. Especially if I'm looking at just a rebuild. I don't care about name brands or looks. I only want what works well for the money. Also, clutch suggestions.

If you havent resolved this. I chased a similar issue for years. My center info gauge(the one that reads fuel stats) would keep getting fried, but it wouldnt blow the fuse. I replaced it twice and said to hell with it and left it in after the second time. After that I would periodically blow the fuse that ran my nav/radio/keyless entry. Which also ran the center info unit. Come to find out my bottom door sill lights were not installed and just sitting inside the door. And I guess every now and then would short out on the metal inside the door. Since installing those properly I havent fried the center info unit or the fuse, going on about a year. Anyway, something to consider. The fuse it blew was for the bcu. I think its #34 in the engine bay fuse box

Trying to find a good video or write up on removing this engine. I'm only coming across earlier generations or different platforms. Is the engine removal the same for other models or day 4th Gen legacy?

I wouldn't assume the motor needs to be rebuild based on the borescope picture. The cylinder hasn't firing and that could be the carbon build up from the piston that is being clean off the top of the cylinder.

 

What is the motor's oil consumption? If around around 1000 mile per quart I would fix that while the motor is out.

 

 

About a quart per 3k miles

If you really want to change the block, then just go EJ257. I think these are still around 2K.

 

I'll definitely look closer when it's pulled. Don't know much about these engines yet. Is the ej257 an older model? Is it plug and play with my car and any changes in hp/torque?

Bought a cheap boroscope to look in the cylinder. These pictures are pretty low quality but the best I could do with what I have. One pic is upper cylinder wall near the head and the other is the top of the piston. I'm guessing my best bet is a new engine. What's the best option there? What I'm seeing on new rebuilt is $7k. Way more than I want to spend. Low mileage used? Never know the condition. Or jdm import. Need the cheapest but reliable option.

Looks like you guys are right. I had a homemade smoke machine that I made for my jetta tdi. Anyway, put cyl #4 back at TDC and put smoke to it. Had smoke coming out of the tailpipe. What am I looking at cost wise to fix this, assuming it's a burnt valve? I'm going to have to pay a shop to do it, I don't have the time to do this myself. Are we talking new head or just replace/reseat the valve?

Started with a misfire in #4. Went through everything, plugs, swapped coils, swapped injectors, still misfire in cylinder #4. Performed a leak down test and my compressor couldn't keep up with the air loss. Rotated the crank to see if maybe I didn't have it at TDC, no change. Performed the test on cyl #2, performed great, only 3 psi loss. I think it's an intake valve, but want to identify for certain what the failure is, so I can proceed accordingly.

 

 

2010 legacy gt, no mods, 122k miles