Scoobiidoo

With the recent enforcement on tuned ECUs in California, my mildly modded OBXT with a VF52 and Grimmspeed EBCS mildly tuned by Tuning Alliance is going to need a smog in 2 months.

I have a stock ECU that I can swap in but the question is will I be able to drive the car(without boosting) long enough(100 miles or more) to get it smog ready without blowing anything up?

Thanks

Pm’ed, still available?

Still available. Pm replied.

Have a set of 4 side feed DW740 fuel injectors freshly rebuilt by RC Engineering last week. Match Flow Report included.

$450 shipped in the US

https://www.importimageracing.com/products/subaru-oem-blow-off-valve-gasket-2008-2014-wrx-2005-2009-legacy-gt?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzc7Q6Jff6gIVAdbACh0Oyg5YEAQYAyABEgJg9vD_BwE

 

 

Gee that take about a minute.

That's what I have on my stock BPV. I went ahead and installed it and it is leaking, not making a good seal on the Avo intercooler. My gasket is only a few months old, I tried different install and tightening sequences and it leaks above 10psi.

I am going to try and make a gasket to use together with the stock gasket.

I purchased a used Avo intercooler and it came with no gaskets. I know I need to buy the Mr. Gasket thermostat gasket for the turbo side but can I reuse the gasket from the stock BPV? If not, which gasket do I buy?

Thanks

Goodridge or Techna Fit seem to produce the more favored SS brake lines. I own a set of Outback-specific Techna Fits that will be going on in conjunction with LGT Centric blank rotors, ATE Type200. I am still undecided on my pads. I will either be scooping up some Carbotech XP8s or something from the EBC product line (probably Yellowstuff).

 

If anyone has any experience with EBC pads, good or bad, I'm all ears!

I would be very interested to see how the Techna Fit lines work out for you installation wise. Thanks

There was a challenge replacing the hoses, I needed a hardline replaced as well in the rear for the passenger side. I have a spare cross over to the rear drivers side now. :/

 

Other than that yeah. Plug and play.

Just looked up the hoses, I am going to need the Legacy hoses or the stock OBXT hoses? Parts diagrams showed they are different.

*Edit: Nevermind, LGT hoses are too short. Any recommendations for SS brake lines source?

There was a challenge replacing the hoses, I needed a hardline replaced as well in the rear for the passenger side. I have a spare cross over to the rear drivers side now. :/

 

Other than that yeah. Plug and play.

Thank you. Good to know about the hoses. I may need to have spares available to avoid downtime.

To do the swap you'll need, LGT calipers, LGT caliper brackets, LGT pads, and fluid.

Thank you! Will start looking for LGT calipers

Just received most of my order. These GT rotors and calipers are massive in comparison to the OBXT setup. Nice to see the rears are vented as well AGAIN massive by comparison.

Bringing this one back.....@kzr750r1

Were the GT rotors a drop-in upgrade? I am looking for the easiest brake upgrade for towing. I used to tow one big bike(700+ lbs) on my Kendon 3 bike trailer with careful brake planning but now I am going to be towing two big bikes. Flats are no problem but inclines and declines are going to be a challenge.

You t into the top fuel line going into the intake. It’s been a while but I remember having to get a little creative making it work with the disconnects and my harbor freight fuel pressure gauge. Glad you found something! These problems can be frustrating

Solved! It was a combination of exhaust leak and weak fuel pump due to single o-ring. AF learning and correction is now in the proper range of less than 3%.

Thank you, everyone, for your help.

Aem-320

Googling AEM 320 came up with part #50-1000. I just want to confirm that's the correct one for the OBXT/LGT.

Thanks

I would check anything and everything that was removed and beyond that. If it’s an exhaust leak it will be loudest when it’s cold and quieter after thermal expansion. When you pressurize the intake you should block off anything that Could feed the crankcase and pull the oil fill cap as a precaution to avoid pushing out a seal. You shouldn’t have to pull the pump to check it, a fuel pressure test should suffice especially at idle

Found small leaks at the up pipe to manifold and downpipe to cat mid pipe. Reassembled and added copper exhaust sealant.

What is the best way to test fuel pressure? Disconnect and T in from where? I only have regular hose ends on my fuel pressure gauge. Thanks

So, before everyone starts pitching Grimmspeed or anything else, please bear with me that circumstance allows me to only choose between Mishimotor or Avo.

I searched but it seems there are a lot of talks about Avo and nothing much about Mishimoto intercooler.

I looked at both and Mishimoto seems to be of a little better quality. Anyway, is there something else I didn't know about the Avo intercooler?

Thanks

Another question, do you by chance have a wideband and have you checked live data to see if anything is doing anything weird? Failing sensor don’t always throw cel.

I have an AEM UEGO but I don't have another bung to install it. However, I did connect it to my OBD scanner and checked live view. It is showing AF correction of 7-8% short term and 14.8% long term after idling for a while.

As far as parts removed, intake manifold, turbo intake hose and the lot are all intake related. Other than that, I replaced the spark plugs. Dropped the exhaust manifold, front joint pipe, up pipe and downpipe.

I have heatshields and the bottom cover on the car. Can't hear anything the way it is. Will have to do it tomorrow morning when it is cooler. Should I check all exhaust connection that I dropped? Like downpipe to cat?

BTW, over 8psi is not good. I have oil coming out of the oil dipstick. I hope I didn't blow any seals.

The fuel pump is the last thing I would check because I have a full tank of gas in it. i remembered the mess I made last year installing the DW with it 3/4 full.

You would hear a hiss or whistle, bad duck call or kazoo noise.

No noise. Nothing at all even when spiked past 7psi. I am suspecting the "new" used catless sti up pipe gasket

Taking your advice I started thinking I should check intake leak again so I hooked up a boost/vacuum gauge. It is idling with 17-18" Hg. How much vacuum are you guys pulling at idle? I am thinking if it is leaking it would pull much less vacuum.

Lol with the gauge upright that it. Upside down it is 16"

Lol that’s fantastic! I’m imagining someone that can hopefully play the smoothest of Jazz, doing just that into the intake. I’ve seen leaks that don’t show themselves till about 5-6psi in the system, but that wouldn’t explain your crazy correction at idle. It does sound like an intake leak though.

Lol yeah I was very surprised he blew out the plastic cap the first time. I had to really tighten the hose clamp down.

I sprayed sudsy water on all the intake/manifold/turbo/intercooler areas before and didn't see any bubbling action.

Would a leaky up pipe connection cause lean running?

When you say blow are you meaning with your lungs? The intake/ charge side I’m sure holds more air than your lungs. You will need to pressurize it with compressed air.

Not my lungs but my athlete and saxophonist son's lungs He actually blew out the plastic cap the first time so I know it is a few psi worth. Plus it was an audible whooosh when he let go of his thumb seal.