ivan.ej255

No, thank you Ivan for the very detailed post!

 

I will look into the parts, I want light output like that!

 

I had a friend go to Redline recently and he was happy with the work. I had a projector foglight retrofit on another car done by Firedrake and they were good too.

 

This place always costs me money lol!

Ah yeah forgot about Firedrake! I always see their posts in social media and they seem to be great too. I think you're in good hands with any of those 3 shops. You're right every time I visit this place and also the FB group my wallet gets thinner lol. Even though this 5th-gen platform is known to be "lacking" in terms of aftermarket support, I still find it very enjoyable as there's still so much we can do to it. Case in point: I recently found out that the JDM 5th-gen Legacy tS (tuned by STI) has an all black headliners and pillar covers like the modern WRX STIs... but that's a topic for another day

Thank you ivan.ej255!

Looks like my Rom Rider does not show TGV - nothing similar in the parameters list.

I use latest Romrider 0.7.2 (2020–11–11) with ECU definitions 0.8.3.1b Oct. 7th, 2009 and Logger definitions logger_v362.

 

Could you please tell how do you see TGV in your rom rider or maybe share some screenshots?

 

 

And if your problem is not related to the load then I think Fluidampr would help you - as you originally suggested.

 

Regards, ilib11

Hi, I don't have my Windows laptop with me right now but think it starts with "Tumble" in the parameter list.

To keep the discussion updated - I got a suggestion from another forum:

 

"I wonder if the TVGs could be out of sync. When i was first starting out working on Subarus i made the mistake of taking the actuator off the TVG and had symptoms similar to what you describe. "

 

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?20249-EJ255-Rough-Idle-amp-Engine-Shaking-under-load-like-Aircon-On&p=288665&viewfull=1#post288665

 

Has anyone know how to test these TGVs?

 

Regards, ilib11

Hi, thanks for the update.

You can log and compare left and right TGV in RomRaider logger. With my car there is a little voltage variance of around 0.02-0.05v between left and right but I don't think it's enough to make a difference. I will still look into it though, I will thoroughly check on this when I have my car in the shop for AVCS filtered bolts and cam seals replacement.

Reading back, I think it's now clear to me that we don't have the same 'problem'. Mine doesn't change with load at all, it's the same with A/C on or off, Drive or Neutral, etc.

I think what I'm experiencing is just a little 'nuisance' not really a bad vibration, it's just I don't want to feel that the engine is on at idle as it is with other cars in this class

Good info, thanks Ivan!

 

Have you retrofitted yours? If so which did you pick and who did the work?

 

Thinking about doing a retrofit, maybe with these or with the parts Brunzo linked.

Hi, Scubaboo!

Yes, I had mine retrofitted. I bought facelift headlights from a 2013 LGT, then had those retrofitted. So the stock headlights with the stock projectors are still with me, kept them as spare.

While researching about this conversion I found out that for our cars which are factory equipped with HIDs, buying the cheap(relatively) facelift assemblies from/for USDM cars won't work since they're not factory HIDs- they don't have the wiring for auto-leveler(because they don't have the auto-leveler motor at all) and no built-in enclosure for the HID ballasts. There are aftermarket solutions but I want everything to look OEM.

For projectors I chose G5-R projectors with Osram CBI bulbs and I initially reused the factory 10 year old ballasts. The G5-R looks identical to the latest Morimoto D2S 5.0, but the beam is much fuller and much more intense. G5-R with the factory 35 watts ballast can match the output of D2S 5.0 on 55 watts. Eventually though my factory 10 year old ballasts started to show signs of deterioration (intermittently turning off/on) which made me upgrade to aftermarket 55 watts. I made sure they still fit inside the OEM location (inside the headlights). Now with the 55 watt ballasts, the light output is unreal lol. Even beside newer luxury cars with their fancy adaptive LED lights my lights still come out on top. Not to mention the ultra sharp cut-off that is unmatched by ANY factory car.

Also, since the projectors are now bi-xenons, the high beam is much more intense since I now have 4 lights for high beams (high beams from the projectors + separate OE halogen high beams).

The best available bi-xenon projector right now in terms of output would be the G5-BRT. It is almost the same as the G5-R but with added AR coated blue lens. This makes the light beam more intense(+∼10%) at the expense of reducing color temp, a reduction of around 500Kelvin.

Best combos for me would be:

G5-R + Osram CBI bulbs(5500K)/+ 55 watt ballast:

-This is my no.1 choice and is the combo I used. Resulting color temp would be around 5000K(5500K bulbs + color reduction of the high power 55 watt ballasts).

G5-BRT + CBI/CBB bulbs (these 2 have the same color when warm, both around 5500K, CBB is just more blue at startup) + OEM/aftermarket 35 watt ballast:

-Color temp would be around 5000K too but a bit less intense then the first combo since this is only 35 watts. If you use 55 watts the color temp would be around 4500K, almost like a halogen color. Color is "all-weather" as some would call it, but I've personally experienced no significant gains by going from 5500K down to 4300K.

You can also use Philips XV Gen 2(XV2) or Osram Nighbreaker Laser(NBL) HID bulbs which are both arguably the brightest OEM-grade HID bulbs available in the market right now but their color is around 4500-4800K. They're a lot warmer than CBI and if you pair them with 55 watt ballasts + BRT projectors, the color is literally like a good halogen bulb at around 4000K or less.

So, G5-BRT + XV2/NBL + 55 watts = the best of the best among the bi-xenons in terms of output but the color will be like halogen as mentioned.

MLED 2.0: I haven't seen this personally but based on the reviews and tests online, it can match the G5-BRT's output and is the best bi-LED projector available in the market right now. Also there's no one locally who sells this projector. If you want this you can import it yourself(I recommend Lightwerkz) then either diy or have one of our local retrofitters fit them for you. No warranty for the latter of course since the part didn't come from them.

I had mine done by Redline Auto Works in QC. I've known the owner(Tots) for almost 10 years now, he also did the retrofit on my older car 7-8 years ago and had no problems with it so this shop was the safe choice for me.

Also heard good things about TheRetrofitShop(GaryQ) who's also an OG in this field locally. One thing about GaryQ though, you won't be able to specify G5-R, G5-BRT, etc. as he's not very open about what's the equivalent of his projectors when comparing them to what's available overseas. The projectors I mentioned change names depending on the region. So, researching about GaryQ's projectors via cross referencing won't be possible lol. Both these guys have been doing retrofits for 10 years or more now and their pricing is also close so choose whoever you prefer.

Sorry for the long post lol, hope this helps!

Hi, just saw this while browsing the forum and sorry for bumping up an old thread.

Subaru actually has a TSB (SB15-048) regarding this back in 2015 for factory-equipped HID headlamps on 2010-2014 Legacy/Outback(non-USDM markets). It's only a TSB however, just an updated part number for the headlamp assemblies and the HID bulb instead of a recall. As others have said here, they're citing the reason for the deterioration is "very strong ultraviolet emitted from this bulb under continuous long period of use". The new HID bulb with the new part number allegedly emits less UV which saves the reflector inside the projector from deterioration. Once the deterioration has occurred though there's no other solution other than to buy new headlamp assemblies($$$) or have new projectors retrofitted to your old ones (imo this is the better solution, as you can now have bi-xenon projectors).

If you're going the projector retrofit route, I suggest G5-R, G5-BRT, or MLED 2.0 projectors. These are the current top dogs in the aftermarket and will outperform even the latest factory LED/bi-LED equipped cars without blinding other drivers.

SB15-048

https://i.imgur.com/H9Vtzoj.png

I've ordered a generic turbine speed hall effect sensor to solder in personally.

Got what appears to be the same as the generic one mentioned here :

https://www.sb9t.com/threads/a-fix-for-p1710-transmission-fault-code.4324/

 

If I had to change the valve body also, I'd probably try one of these 'performance' ones :

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264297996810

 

Would much rather go manual though, but the change of finding a reasonably priced 6 speed and getting custom mounts for it sorted seems like quite a barrier.

 

For now I shift via the paddles and that seems to avoid the bang.

Just an FYI, that valve body performance mod is not the whole valve body. You will need to transfer the solenoids, inhibitor, harness, and speed sensor from your old valve body into the new one. So if you're having problems with your current valve body, replacing it with the modded one is not gonna solve it.

ilib11

I forgot to mention that I also had all 4 fuel injectors cleaned last year, they found the injector in cyl 4 to be slightly clogged and dirty. Had them all cleaned then flow tested and it seemed to improve the vibration a TINY bit (still not as smooth as it can be), but it slowly came back after a few days. Most likely it was just placebo that the vibration improved lol.

I've been reading about the AVCS as mentioned in your thread in the Liberty forum, and it's something I haven't looked into throughly yet. I'm always including the AVCS angles in my datalogs though and I haven't seen any evidence of AVCS malfunction. I'm gonna dig deeper into this.

Regarding the Fluidampr, yes it's mainly for damping those torsional vibrations but it seems like the big side effect of that is a smoother engine overall- at least that's what I can see from Subaru owners' reviews who installed it. I'll post an update when I get it installed.

Scubaboo

Yep, mine has 0 misfires too on cyl 1-4, checked throughly by me with romraider and by the dealership with their SSM computer. BTW (Off topic) I forgot to update you but I had the Bilstein coilovers intalled and the ride comfort is WAY BETTER compared to both the OEM Bilstein shocks and the KYB SR shocks lol.

Ok back to the topic.

Hi, my 2010 5EAT LGT is having this kind of vibration too. I have been chasing this 'problem' since I got the car in 2018 and now I kind of gave up already lol. The vibration is actually not bad like how a solid engine mount would vibrate, but it's still very noticeable and I kind of just accepted that this is how the Legacy 2.5GT is. Kind of annoying knowing this is a midsize car which should have better engine NVH at idle than compact cars but my old 8th-gen civic is actually smoother at idle with load or not.

Like you, I have changed all the possible culprits with all original Subaru parts from the dealership:

All 4 spark plugs (changed it 3x within 1 year/10,000km just to be sure)

All 4 ignition coils

MAF sensor replaced 2x

Throttle body cleaned 2x in 1 year

Vacuum leak/boost leak test several times

Compression and leakdown test several times

New air filter

New battery

Replaced almost all of the vacuum hoses available in the Subaru parts catalog

New engine and transmission mounts (1 in front, 1 on each side (left and right), 1 transmission mount)- This surprised me the most. Both old side engine mounts were trashed, but after installing new original ones there's no difference at all with regards to the vibration. In all my previous cars there's always a big reduction in engine vibration after replacing trashed engine mounts.

All of the parts are installed the right way, always following the factory service manual. Datalogs from romraider shows the engine is in tiptop shape. Same results when plugged in to the SSM computer at the dealership. I've also manipulated the idle speeds thru romraider and ecuflash and yes, this does not solve the 'problem' it just masks it. I have since added almost 40,000km to it since I bought and it hasn't given me any engine/transmission related problems.

After 3 years of chasing this with no positive results, I kind of just gave up 'actively' going after this as it's just another source of stress for me. Not to mention the amount of money spent on this lol.

My next step would be to install Fluidampr (replaces your crankshaft pulley). I know the USDM LGT has a different drive/serpentine belt system than the rest of the world and the Fluidampr is not compatible. If your 5th gen uses 2 separate belts for power steering/alternator and A/C like the rest of the world, the Fluidampr for EJ25 application will fit your car. If this does not solve the vibration then I'm done. I'll just fully accept it as it is lol.

The tuner also mentioned Manley. I’m just overly concerned with piston slap. I have a bad habit of not letting things warm up, but I do think I’ll be more careful with this kind of investment. I’ll order the shortblock and then the Manley pistons based on the bore size.

 

I’d still like to see what other people have gone with. I’ve read things that mahle is hit or miss, but I would’ve liked to go with 4032s. I almost considered sticking with stock since they’ll be brand new in the shortblock and I haven’t read of many people (fifth gens) having issues with them.

If you want 4032 pistons then your only choices are Mahle, Cosworth and Rallispec's Omega pistons. Mahle is top notch, it is one of the most used piston manufacturer by top motorsport teams. AFAIK Cosworth already stopped producing them for Subarus so only shops that have them in stock will be able to sell them you.

Piston slap on 2618 pistons shouldn't really be that big of a deal unless your engine builder doesn't know what he's doing. The bigger benefit the 4032 will have over the 2618 would be better long term wear resistance due to higher silicon content.

I finally got this delivered.

 

[ATTACH]282261[/ATTACH]

 

I think it looks great in blue and will look great with all the blue in my engine bay. It's starting to get a little crowded in there with all the extra piping and extra bits for this build.

 

Now, I have to figure out how to install this little beast and where to mount it amongst the crowd.

 

I have a growing list of things to get done before spring:

 

1 Install AOS.

2 Wrap steering wheel.

3 fix the bit of rust on the trunk and driver's side door.

4 Install grill mesh.

5 Rear sway bar

6 New wheels/tires.

7 Install VEMS EJ cooling balance kit.

8 ...

Is that their AOS specific to the 5th gen Legacy? I emailed IAG a few weeks ago and they told me that they have a 5th gen test car and they will release a 5th gen specific AOS, but no ETA.

Unfortunately the definitions I downloaded dont include my ECU version. Need to look for the right definitions online.

Hey! I have the AE5F301C definition for our 2010 EDM Legacy GT 5EAT, available in RomRaider. Our local tuner Mark Bata is known as "MFB" there. I think he's the one who uploaded the definition for our cars. Is your ECU version different?

Hi Ivan, yes, I'm a Makati boy nowadays lol!

 

RSB is a nice upgrade! I have had it on for 2 weeks now and I brought the car up to Tagaytay once. Flatter cornering and rear pivots a bit easier, without being twitchy on straightaways, even in the rain. Recommended upgrade!

 

Just got the KW's on and was refraining from commenting till they are broken in. Right now...they are firmer than the OE Bilsteins, but they take our rough roads better than the Bilsteins. The KWs are bouncing me a bit more but they are not harsh like the Bilsteins on minor potholes. I'm happy so far!

Haha, both times I intended to take a picture of your car but at those exact times I was also crossing the street! Gotta be mindful of those motorcycle riders who doesn't respect the pedestrian lane while crossing Jupiter street lol.

Did you install the RSB first or the KW first? I'm curious about the additional ride stiffness and the NVH the RSB will add to our local 5th gen. My rear endlinks and RSB bushings are shot, I figured I might as well upgrade the RSB if it doesn't add that much NVH.

About the KW, that sounds about right from my experience with KW. Firmer ride but more consistent- doesn't get crashy on bumps and potholes. Gonna wait for your follow up review once they have settled in but looks like I found my next suspension upgrade! lol

Thanks all y'all for your input.

 

Based on the overwhelmingly positive experiences everyone has, I was enabled to go for it!

 

Pulled the trigger on a Cusco 20mm and hope to get it on soon!

Hey, I've been inactive for quite a while but I think I saw your car in Makati twice this week! Nice and shiny LGT! It prompted me to go to this forum today lol. What are your thoughts on your new RSB? How about your KWs have you installed them yet?

Hi everybody,

 

finally I diagnosed what is the problem.

 

Code P1710 appeared. Then I googled it and found out that many people are experiencing the same issue. In Japan there was also a free replacement for it.

 

The cheapest way to repair it is buying turbine speed sensor 2 ($100) which is located on valve body and have it replaced. The more expensive one is having replaced valve body. In every authorised dealership, that is what is going to happen...

 

I found one sensor on ebay, so I am waiting for it to arrive, then I am going to change it.

 

I will let you know what is the result.

 

It's crazy that it took almost 2 years to show the code...

Hi, do ypu have the part number for the turbine speed sensor?

Great tuner in Sarasota, FL. TDC Top Dead Center Tuning. They are honest, very knowledegable and real motor heads. It is a pleasure doing business with them. They do it all from dyno tune to complete engine rebuild or generating high horsepower. I am very happy that I found them.

So what intercooler did you end up with?

Took a couple of different angles. Hope it helps.

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Sorry to bump an old post, I was planning to buy this AOS but I saw this in my engine bay. Did your car have this? I don't know what it is but it looks like it would get in the way of the IAG AOS.

JDM Legacy GT BM9 KYB Excel-G part numbers:

339238 front left

339239 front right

340043 rear

I went to Subaru dealer today. I can now confirm that our Legacies are fully modelled after the JDM 5th gen. I got the part numbers for the facelifted 5th gen sold here in the Philippines, which are equipped with KYB: 20310AJ160, 20310AJ170.

A quick search confirms that the same struts are used in the 2012 JDM LGT. Good thing I did not order the USDM KYB struts right away! I find it weird though that we have the same parts as the right hand drive model instead of the left hand drive USDM model.

Ivan, who are you getting your Koni's from BTW, and what springs are you pairing them with?

I'm buying them directly from the US. I'll have them ship it to a cargo forwarder there, then the cargo forwarder will ship them here. I'll pair them with Eibach Pro-Kit, which I already bought.

Who, Massive? They give out part numbers, but sometimes they arent so accomodating on the phone lol!

 

I know the KYB Excel G part number everyone is using is posted here somwhere, I've seen it but I dont remember where.

 

I can get the locally available Excel G part number here to confirm, but I am confident it will be the same as in the US.

 

I'll check tomorrow and post it here.

JDM Legacy GT BM9 KYB Excel-G part numbers:

339238 front left

339239 front right

340043 rear

That's unfair, they gave it to you but not to me haha. I only inquired thru Messenger though. Anyway, thanks for the help.

The only mounting points are the bolts that connect the strut body to the knuckle. If the jdm use a different knuckle the holes could be in slightly different spots but the strut tube itself shouldn't be any different. We're talking about the inserts I'm assuming

@Shadow_419

yes, I am talking about the Koni inserts. What I'm worried about is buying a donor KYB excel strut from the US (since that's the 5th gen strut that is proven to accept the Koni's) then finding out that the strut is not compatible to our Legacy here in the Philippines.

Hi Ivan, our cars are JDM.

 

But the changes I've seen are mostly cosmetic, suspension should bolt right up.

 

Fahr_side suggested RCE Bilsteins to me and he has worked with the JDM suspension so I assume further that parts will interchange.

 

A problem may be with using inserts. I am not sure if they will fit the strut bodies of our OE Bilsteins.

 

I know we have KYB here but I havent checked if they have the Legacy Excel G variant that the US has that can accept the Koni inserts.

 

What I know is we have the New SR and Lowfer available locally. But there is a big chance the New SR body is the same as the Excel G.

 

08-up WRX struts will fit and I know Excel G is available for those models. But WRX struts have a perch that is about 1" lower and will lower the fronts by that much.

 

STI struts will not fit as they have different spindle hole spacing.

@Scubaboo

That's exactly what I'm worried about. Excel-G is available for LGT from KYB PH, but I can't confirm if it's the exact model as the USDM Excel-G. So I'm worried about these:

a. buying an Excel strut here in PH then finding out that the Koni inserts won't fit (incompatible diameters)

b. buying an Excel from the US then finding out that it doesn't fit my LGT.

I talked to Joe (GTEASER), he said I only need to find out the outer diameter of the strut to know if the Koni's will fit or not. So, I asked our KYB distributor here for help or just give me the part numbers but they won't give it to me unless I buy the said products.

Hi everyone.

Anyone here from outside the US tried the known Koni insert mod for the 5th gen? I was about to order mine but I saw in the Facebook group that the JDM Bilsteins are not compatible with the USDM cars because of different mounting points for the front. I am assuming that my car is modelled after JDM since it has Bilsteins as OEM. Is USDM suspension is compatible with JDM(or EDM)?

Ugh. The car runs nice but the clunking is so annoying!

 

I just checked with the local dealer. The front Bilstein inverted struts cost $720...per piece!

 

I'm wondering if I should just get a complete KYB Lowfer strut/spring set, but I'm not keen on lowering the car because of the roads here though.

Hey bro! I see that you're from the Philippines as well As for the Bilsteins, we can get them for P19500(around $365) each for fronts from the Bilstein distributor here. They're Bilstein B6, same as OEM.

I also have a set of donors from my legacy. They're drilled and cut ready for the inserts. If anyone wants to throw me any offer on them pm me.

Hey man, are your struts still available?