sylquist

So, preliminary investigation is that it could be trunk lid latch actuator. Did any of you ever had problems with it?

‘15 with 110k miles. No issues.

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I also have the Diode Dynamics SL1. Highly recommend. In the realm of LEDs you get what you pay for. I tried cheapo’s from Amazon and they did not work well at all. Tons of review videos on YouTube if you’re really interested in looking it up.

Also recommend the SS3 fog light kid from Diode Dynamics. You can definitely tell the difference.

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I would more believe that the tech mis-recorded the mileage at the oil change and it should have been 38672. Otherwise, you are looking at a broken speedo sensor or instrument cluster.

Pray to the Subaru gods that it’s the Speedo sensor. Just had to replace my cluster and I died inside. There’s a lot of legalities with the odometer and it had to be shipped to a company in New York.

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That makes sense. Unfortunately, it's a risk you take when jump starting any modern car with a lot of onboard electronics. Using a stand-alone booster pack is safer than using jumper cables connected to another vehicle, but neither method is 100% safe. (Then there is always the risk of connecting jumper cables with the polarity backwards. On the other hand, most ... but not all ... booster packs include some kind of reverse-polarity protection.)

Yup. Did everything as safe and properly as I possibly could short of disconnecting the battery and taking it to get charged before hand.

Used a jump pack.

Connected the cables properly.

Then double checked polarities and connections.

Even used eye and hand PPE just cause I had it available.

One in a million as the tech said.

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Dealership got back to me.

During the jump, a voltage spike occurred that caused the circuit board on the instrument cluster to burn out. So basically the worst case scenario happened. Apparently after all the diagnostics, the technician just decided to start taking the car apart and saw the burnt out board.

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For clarification, it’s 12.5v, car not running.

Dealer said they’ve never seen this problem before. The Lead Technician is working on it and they asked to keep it an extra day. Service Advisor tried to get me out of there asap by doing the basic reset stuff already mentioned in this thread. As with me, none of it worked.

I suspect a hefty bill is coming my way. But I could be pleasantly surprised.

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Tried all the suggestions. Battery is a Napa Legend Premium. Nothing worked. I suspect I must’ve fried something during the jump. I have a service appointment tomorrow with Subaru. Will let you guys know when I know.

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Appreciate the thoughts. Battery tested on multimeter and comes back ~12.5ish. Battery is also less than two years old.

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Wanted to add that already scanned it with my scanner and no error codes. Everything else works fine (eyesight, lights, stereo, etc).

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Jump started my 2015 Legacy Limited and noticed that the analog speedometer is significantly off (at 65 mph reads 100 mph, at 25 mph reads 35 mph). The digital speedometer between the analog speedometer and tachometer still works (confirmed by GPS on my phone). Additionally, the odometer doesn’t show up. You just see dashes. I already took my battery to AutoZone and had it charged (battery is good and not faulty). Also checked fuses with multimeter and fuses are all good. Any ideas before I call my mechanic to schedule a diagnostic?

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Goodyears are good for one year.

 

If you’re not going to get a dedicated set for winter, look into all weather tires like the Michelin CrossClimate2s.

Second the CrossClimate2s. Best in class.

For a more budget friendly pick, try the Yokohama Avid Ascent GT. They made a weird humming noise for me (and some other assorted folks based on tire rack reviews), but they were superb in the snow.

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I have the same car. The apps are horrid and I’m glad Subaru finally conceded that their home grown solution wasn’t as good as CarPlay/Android Auto.

There’s a trick to getting it to work, but it’s been so long I’ve forgotten what it was. To me, it’s simpler to just use voice commands on Siri.

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I already had looked up Katskins, they quoted me $2000 installed plus tax , I can buy an entire interior for under $1000 and seats are included, granted they are used but in great shape

Katzkin would be 100% leather whereas oem is not. OEM is a combination vinyl and leather.

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All Subaru driver need two sets of wheels and tires. One for summer and one for winter. No matter where you live.

Gonna have to disagree with you. When I lived in San Fran (periodic drives to Tahoe for skiing), the Yokohama Avid Ascend (Grand Touring All Season) worked great. Brought that with me to Denver and also worked great last winter. In Colorado, unless you’re living up in the mountains, all seasons are just fine in the Legacy.

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Failure at ~30k is definitely unusual, but from my family's experience with 6 different Subarus (2 Outbacks, 2 Imprezas, 1 LGT, 2.5RS) all over 100k miles on their original wheel bearings.

 

We predominantly drive on highway and in rural/suburban areas, so maybe that has something to do with our positive experience.

Yeah, I wouldn’t be surprised if that was the case. I switched to a Subaru so that I could go into the mountains (am avid skier and outdoors person, though not quite off-roader). I would argue, though, that a significant portion of their customer base also does the same or similar activities so I would expect that to be considered in their engineering.

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Fair enough ... for a personal decision. But your failure to consider the unknown thousands of Legacy and Outback owners (including myself) who haven't reported wheel bearing problems doesn't justify your broad declaration that, "Subaru bearings suck." Besides, I don't think you realize how immature that sounds.

And apparently you don’t realize how pedantic you’re coming across.

Took me 30 seconds to Google Subaru wheel bearing failure. Third result is this tsb.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10165552-0001.pdf

Additional research unveils tsb 03-58-08. So far less than 60 seconds in to research this. It’s actually taking me more time to write this response. Subaru has had a history of wheel bearing issues. You can like Subaru and still acknowledge where they fall short. I do, however, concede that Google probably tailored those results to me because I previously looked up Subaru wheel bearing failure.

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Do you have any objective evidence to back that up ... or is it just your opinion?

There's enough complaints about it across all the Subaru forums that it raises a red flag for me. Also talked about it with my mechanic as I felt failure at ~30k miles was unusual. Probably couldve made Subaru replace it, but then I run the risk of it failing again prematurely. I'm fortunate enough to be in a spot where the cost is a minor annoyance and the lost time of having to take my car in is more of a setback than the money involved in the repair.

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Just out of curiosity, which aftermarket bearing assembly did you go with?

I went with MOOG. Timken is also highly rated for wheel bearings. Both crowds seem to have their supporters. It's been 50k miles since and it's worked perfectly.

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Paid $400 for mine (parts and labor). But that's also because I went aftermarket as Subaru bearings suck.

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Just got mine replaced (15 Limited). Took about four hours and cost was ~$1100, all covered by insurance. No issues yet and the Safelite team did a great install. Talking to the manager, they apparently do a lot of Subaru's with eyesight. If you're worried, I'd just check with the Safelite facility. I'm in Colorado so there's plenty of Subaru's here.

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I have a 15 and 75k miles. I'm not burning any oil.

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Heater core. Answers all your symptoms with the exception of the code.

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I have a compustar remote starter with drone mobile. Drone mobile will allow you to track your car if you want to pay for that subscription level. Make sure a reputable shop does the install and she'll run just fine. My install was ~500 all in. Took about four hours.

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I agree. If you paid for it, it doesn't matter if you needed the service or not. You paid for it so it should be done.

I'm fairly fortunate where I am. The local dealerships throw in freebies all the time. Oh you need your steering components checked while we got it up on the lift? No problem and no charge. Their prices are still more expensive than the local shop I normally go to, but hey, when it's in there for recall work, might as well ask.

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Just talk to the guys who are going to mount and balance it for you. Let us know though. I'm interested in these tires for next year when I'll need to replace my current ones.

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