Kcdrift
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Posts posted by Kcdrift
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Default to which ever comes first really. Oil's lubrication properties will break down overtime even if you don't drive the car much.
I change my oil every 2500-3000 miles and have had no issues. 194k miles on the original engine
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There are a bunch of dings all around the car especially over the rear quarter panels above the wheels. I also have surface rust on the roof by the windshield. The old owner must had a roof rack on the car because you can see bunch of dents and scratches.
Also thanks for the compliment. The car is coming along slowly but surely.
Yeah, mine has a few dings on the roof too and I know it’s from the original owner taking things on and off the roof rack.
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Still have the Cobb EBCS?
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Do you still have the OEM TGVs and top feed fuel lines? I am trying to convert to top feed.
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Umm, so if I say picked up a used Cobb downpipe and noticed there is no longer a Stage 2 OTS tune available on the cobb site to download onto my AP...now what?
I have the OTS tunes saved if you need them.
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The AP manager just transfers maps and firmware back and forth between the PC and the AP. What the tunes are is not the manager's concern.
Any tunes you already have are yours to keep, Cobb can't and wouldn't try to "suck" them out of your AP via the manager.
I think you still have to update to the latest software to be able to move those maps on the Computer with your AP... not sure if they scan and disable the non compliant tunes that way. That would be pretty nuts
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buying new is the best option. See the link for the the HVAC and then you need to get the harness made and a JDM hazard. Search the forums
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Bumping this post as it's still the best reference for a simple and durable rebuild that's OEM+ and perfect for a daily.
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GREAT write up!! It's nice to see a new build as Maxcapacity's build is always the one I go back to for reference. It was really cool to see him post in here and that he is still so active LOL.
Thanks for posting from start to finish and the car looks great.
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Good stuff Ben!!
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check Nasioc or RS25 for the specs. They have links to manuals too
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Hey any chance you still have these maps! I'm picking up a V2 and could really use them!
(Don't mind my new membership, I have a lot of cars and usually just read forums and search but this I just can't find)
Welcome to the forum. Yeah I have them around somewhere, 2005-2007 LGT right? Let me look for then and I can email them to you. PM me your email.
-KC
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SOLD on NASIOC
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Thanks! I'll set up an account and list it there as well.
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Hi friend ��
What's up brother!
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I have a like new set of 850cc DeatschWerk top feed injectors for sale. Part number DET-21S-01-0850-4.
Bought them for my hybrid build but decided to run a bigger turbo and 1000cc injectors instead. Opened but never ran which is why I say “like new”, 0 miles on them and has the o-rings and seals.
This would be good for anyone converting to Top Feed.
Asking $OLD OBO, willing to ship if buyer pays shipping.
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Thanks for the info guys.
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I have the front left and right timing covers if you’re interested. One of the bolt holes has a small rack but doesn’t affect the usability at all. PM me if you’re interested.
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Day 13 quarantine bump
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Are the gauges plug and play? Do they have all the sensors and wiring?
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Please take a moment to read the FS rules at the top of this sub-forum. You'll need to load ready-for-sale photos to the site's server in order to sell items on the site. We DO NOT allow Marketplace pictures to be linked from other websites (tapatalk, photobucket, flickr, imgur, etc..).
Edit your OP, click Go Advanced, click the paperclip icon, browse to your pictures, choose you photo, click Ok, then click Upload. You can also load up to 10 photos of your items before you click Upload. Thread has 24 hours from initial posting to get everything loaded. Do not use the Load Image Process
Picture load walk-through is linked in the rules and found on the Home Page.
Thanks, i wasn't able to set it up from my phone. Just did it on my desktop.
What are yall doin about the standard maintenance intervals?
in Seventh Generation Legacy (2020 - )
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What’s factually untrue?
Unburnt gas that finds its way back into the oil is what can cause the oil to break down. I’m not saying that the oil is going to rapidly break down immediately after the time interval is passed. There is a reason that oil mileage and date is listed for oil changes. However the additives in synthetic oils do last much longer now but why not change the oil anyway for peace of mind?
I have been using blackstone for a while now and they always give me solid feedback on my oil analysis. Also I’ve never had the time pass before the miles have.