tumbleweed 49

As Jp1975 said just pull the stock toward you to flash the brights, this works if the headlights are on or off. If this happens a lot you might consider taking it to the dealer and having your headlights adjusted. Bright headlights, i.e. LED and Xenon, usually don't bother other drivers but headlights that are aimed into their faces usually do.

If I have that problem I will try some silicone lube. Spray around all the buttons while exercising them. If you need to remove the steering wheel google steering wheel removal for your year Legacy/Outback and I think you will find a u tube video that will tell you how.

Definitely not a sealed battery if it has removable vents on it. A lot of battery problems are caused because the battery runs low on water. I check the levels on mine about every 6 months and add distilled water if it gets low.

I have had battery problems with mine also but as NNJ mentioned above mine was solved by a new battery from the dealer. If mine goes dead again I will replace it with a Group 24 or 34 probably from Walmart or Costco (or from wherever I can find one on sale). This seems to be a fairly common problem with Subaru, check the Outback site.

They're great I have had a Fumoto on my lawn tractor for years, no problems. There is also a valve called an EZ which I understand is made by Fumoto, I am using one of those on my Legacy. Just go to Amazon and search for "oil drain valve" and you will see both. The main difference is that the EZ uses an O ring instead of a flat fiber gasket, it is also made of a different material, nickel rather than brass, and you can get one with a removal hose connector.

I use Mobil 1 but any good brand of the correct weight would be OK.

Manufacturers tell us it is no longer needed. But I know it can't hurt and may even help with engine life on down the road. Besides that I do my own and like to see how easy/hard it is to change oil and filter on a new car. I did my Legacy at about 2000 then again at 6000 and followed the 6000 mile/ 6 month schedule from then on.

I have noticed the LS2s on my Legacy are as you describe, right on according to the speedometer and the GPS. I suspect the cars may be designed with that in mind. I hope I don't get too much variation when I put new tires on it.

In a Prius, or other HSD car, it works great because those cars are hybrids and start out using the traction (large) battery, when their ICE (internal combustion engine) starts you are usually moving and it is almost seamless. There is no starter as in a conventional car, the engine starts using the smaller MG set connected to the traction battery. Plus they have an AC compressor that runs off of an inverter connected to the traction battery so you have cooling even when the ICE is shut down. Unfortunately the start/stop in a Subaru is a kluge that is far from seamless and will never work right. Fortunately my Subaru is also a 2018, I am very fond of it. If it had been equipped with a start/stop such as the 2020 model with no way to disable it without pushing a button every time I want to drive the car I probably would not have bought it.

Either a group 24 or 34 should fit and give you a lot more capacity than a 25. Be sure to get a 24 not a 24F, the 24F has the posts reversed for a Subaru. I have had good luck with Walmart Everstart Max and the Interstate batteries sold at Costco. Don't worry too much about the brand name of the battery, all the car batteries sold in the U.S. are made by only 3 or 4 companies and stores that sell them put their own brand names on them.

My understanding is that this is a gimmick designed to gain a few hundredths of a MPG on the EPA mileage test. For the average driver it probably does not improve mileage at all. The reason it works on the mileage test is because The EPA city test cycles spend a lot of time idling. However, It is probably a good thing to have on a hybrid. My Prius used the small M.G. set as a starter with power coming from the traction battery, it also had an electric motor to run the A.C. and hybrids do not start the engine to move a short distance in traffic, the electric motor(s) do that just fine. But on a normal non-hybrid car it is just something else to break.

Make sure the hose from the pump is properly connected and not leaking. Try clearing the nozzle by poking something small through it. That usually works for me.

It is hard to say without being able to do some tests. You should make some voltage measurements. For example check the voltage when you park it for the day then check it the next morning. It should be over 12 volts in each case, then check it again after you try to start it. Unhook the cables, including the one that goes to the starter, and make sure they are clean and free of corrosion. I would get a second opinion on the new battery. If the voltage looks OK and it still won't turn over with the starter it could be a starter or starter relay. Have the codes checked, most auto parts store will do that free. If you can't find anything try to locate a good honest mechanic to look at it.

Yes, what works for me is press and hold "Set" then press 1 or 2 and you will get the beep.

Transmission in P, push Set and hold it in while you push 1 or 2. It will beep when it is set. If you are registering it with the key FOB the procedure is a little more complex but the one listed in the owner's manual on pages 1-6 & 1-7 should work.

Yes I have done that in my 2018. If your car is configured the same as mine you need to do it under Clock Display Format which is accessed with the Multi Information Display switch on the left side of the steering wheel. In my owner's manual it is on page 3-38.

According to the information I received from Subaru yesterday the update is the same one I installed about 3 months ago, A1.19.17.20. It has map updates but you need to download it from the web site copy it onto a memory stick and use that to install it into the car through a USB port. Or take it in and have the dealer do it for you. I did not have most of the problems in the list and do not use some of the things listed, but I did notice some of the speed limits have been updated. Even after the update the Tomtom Nav system will still get you lost so carry a good paper map, it will also still try to get you to turn onto roads that don't exist but that is just the nature of the beast and I doubt it will be fixed. It is not anywhere near as good as Garmin. I like Android Auto with Ways but I can't get it to work when I am out of range for my cell phone and there may not be a fix for that either.

I bought my 2018 3.6 last year because I heard the 3.6 was going to be dropped in 2020. I also wanted a car without direct injection because of numerous problems with carbon build up. I have no regrets, after 16 months and 18K miles I have had no problems.

I don't think the 3.6 ever had it on the top, my 2018 3.6 has the filter in the conventional location.

From my 2018 Owner's manual, for 3.6L models. Page 12-6 "Your vehicle is designed to use 5W-30 conventional motor oil, however 5W-30 synthetic may be used for optimum engine performance. *: If 5W-30 synthetic oil is not available, 10W-30 or 10W-40 conventional oil may be used if you need to add oil. However, you should change to 5W-30 synthetic or conventional oil at the next oil change."

I have been using M1 since the first oil change but I am considering a switch to conventional next time. Just can't justify synthetic with the 6K mile/6 month change interval required to keep the warranty valid.

Factory coolant fill on my 2018 3.6R was a little below the full mark so I bought some coolant of the proper type and brought it up so I could remember where it was. Not necessary but it doesn't hurt to have it at the full mark. Also nice to have some coolant in the garage in case it needs a little in the future.

I have saved enough money not buying extended warranties that I can afford to fix anything that breaks. They're only a good deal for the guys that sell them.

I would be afraid to take it back and let Wallies try to fix it, they might make a worse mess than you have now. But I would certainly let then know about it. You have to get the drain plug out before you can see what damage was done. I would use whatever force is required to turn it, maybe an air impact wrench. The worse thing that can happen is you will need a new oil pan but it probably won't come to that. When you get the plug out you could try to clean the threads up with a proper size tap, if that don't work you will need to try an oversize self threading drain plug. Good luck.

TireRack has a pretty good selection, Hawk, Akebono, Brembo, and others. Prices looked OK to me.