wi_legacy2016

Replace transmission fluid with Subaru High Performance Fluid, if applicable

 

I'd find out what this means. This service alone costs around $500 for the 3.6 at my dealership. It'd be the difference between this being a good deal and a bad deal. If they'd definitely be changing CVT fluid and doing all the other stuff for $900, go for it. If they aren't replacing CVT fluid, not a very good deal IMO.

Previous discussion thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/leather-seat-repair-283649.html?t=283649

Yeah it takes a little bit before the RPMs drop and there's usually a bit of a surge of power as I'm backing out of my driveway at one point which is kind of weird, but not really an issue as far as I'm concerned.

That is my car right now in that same exact spot [emoji17]

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

Hopefully your tear is small. I regret not getting a quote from a pro until the tear became large. I'm guessing that's a big part of why the quote I got was as high as it was.

 

With that said, I'm still pretty happy with how I addressed the issue. The biggest downside will be in the winter when the bottom of the heated seat won't be as effective.

I had the same problem start last fall. Got a repair kit from Amazon and fixed it up. It held up for about 2 months. Since then the tear got larger. I got a quote to fix it that came in at $425. The guy said it's a common issue on Subaru's. That was too much for me, and I feared even if he fixed it, the issue would just come back because I never had anything sharp on me to cause the issue in the first place.

 

So just a couple weeks ago I got a patch called Masta Plasta to cover the area and prevent it from expanding and then put on Black Panther leather seat bottom covers from Amazon for both front seats (I'm just assuming the passenger seat will eventually develop the same issue otherwise). The seat bottom covers seem nice and thick so I expect them to hold up for a long time. The wrinkles you see in the picture have subsided greatly over the couple of weeks I've had them.

 

So that's ~$60 fix if you're looking to spend less (more like $40 if you didn't get a cover for the passenger seat).

Yeah, I got one for my Legacy and have been using it for about 2 years now. Highly recommend it!

Wow, how does a $9000 job not include a brand new transmission? That's insanity to me.

I got Bridgestone Potenzas RE980AS in September. They've been pretty good, but at the cost of approximately 2mpg compared to the stock Goodyears from what I can tell. Because of that, I'll probably try something else next time.

From my research last fall, it seemed like if you want to step up your battery, group 34 provided the most options and fits well.

Seems like a good deal to me. New 3.6Rs usually sold for around $31k so you're saving around $6k for 6k miles - hard to beat that IMO.

I'm only at 42k miles, but with the quarantine going on, I'm doing some more maintenance than I would be normally. Changed my PCV valve on my 3.6R and here are the two side by side. Pretty easy job - just gotta work around a few hoses.

TheStraightPipes on Youtube have done a couple of good comparison videos between CP and AA.

Some gas stations have hand sanitizer at the pumps you could use after filling up. I've seen this at Kwik Trip a lot.

I've also had a Fumoto valve installed with the gasket that comes with it. No leaks for the 2 or so years it has been on.

I think I know what you mean. I've always kind of thought if feels like that on my 2016. I've just attributed it to how they're rocker buttons instead of individual ones like I wish they were. I haven't thought about really doing anything about them though so maybe not that helpful to you.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gen-6-battery-replacement-info-278179.html?t=278179&highlight=battery+replacement

If you're lucky enough to have indoor parking that can help too.

 

It's worth noting that a heated garage is not good for a car as higher temperatures speed up oxidation (rust). I saw this effect on my last car (09 Altima) that started with no visible rust, and had significant rust in the passenger rear wheel well in under 3 years. I was parking in an underground garage geothermally heated so it was usually around 55 degrees.

 

Maybe it would've happened without the heated parking, but I was really upset so I would often check other Altimas from the same generation I saw in parking lots and never saw another one with rust.

I can't believe that that 6th gen car is a 2017 vs a 2015 or 2016 AND it's listed for $7644. Any vehicle with that kind of mileage I'd stay far away from buying.

I bought my 2016 used a little over 2 years ago and worked the OEM remote starter installation into the deal. I haven't had any problems with it. Had I not gotten it worked into the deal, I'd probably go aftermarket because the OEM is pricey, but I'm happy with how it worked out for me.

All doors also must be locked and shut including the trunk. Not sure what else may cause issues.

I'd be nervous using anything other than the correct Subaru CVT fluid for the CVT. The Amsoil may work, but if it doesn't you could be out several thousand dollars for a new CVT.

So far my 2016 3.6R CVT that just passed 40k miles last week has been solid. The good news is that you're well within the extended warranty period of 10yr/100k miles (unless that's just a United States warranty extension?).

 

If you're pretty convinced there is something not right and it's not in your head, I'd take it to a dealership. Even if they say it's fine and there's nothing for them to do about it, I think it's good to have that documentation for future purposes.

 

I want to get a CVT fluid drain and fill at about 50k miles, but from the sounds of it, most dealerships don't want to touch it. Something I'll need to do more research on, but maybe if there are signs of issues it'll be something they'd be more willing to try.

I actually enjoy the Subaru nav on my 2016. If I'm going somewhere over 30 mins away and need navigation, I usually use the Subaru nav. The two shortcomings to me are that it's place of interest search is hit or miss, and the ETA never learns and takes into consideration if you travel faster than the speed limit.

 

For shorter trips I use Google maps as it's easier to enter a destination on there and it won't use much data since the trip is short. I'll also use Google maps if I have reason to believe traffic will be a big factor.

 

I think we're living in a time where if someone doesn't like the navigation provided by the car, they don't mind using their phone.

I've driven many of the interstates between Cleveland and Minneapolis for the past 2 years. I've never felt like my 2016 3.6R was unstable with the exception of a few very high wind situations.

About a week and a half ago I noticed a tear in the leather of my driver's seat. Probably and inch and a half long, but didn't tear through the material under the surface. I still have no idea how as the only thing I ever keep in a back pocket is my wallet. The only thing I can think of is stress when pivoting my body to get in and out of the seat.

 

I found a leather repair kit on Amazon and applied it this past weekend. It took a fair amount of experimentation to get a good mix of colors to mostly match the seat, but the application was pretty easy. It just took a night to dry and it feels like it should hold up well. If you're not staring at it from a foot away, it blends in pretty well. Obviously I'm usually covering it up by sitting on it anyway. Attaching a couple of before and after pictures.

 

Has anyone else had rips or tears in their leather seats? I'm still really surprised this happened to mine. I got under 40k miles, never have anything sharp in my rear pockets, and am not a particularly large guy (about 180 pounds). I clean and condition the seats probably 3x a year or so.