ScoobaruSpud

Is that a JDM grill? and did you have any fitment issues?

Mine went in perfect but do be sure to order the right one - seems 2018 is different than the 16-17 - and I think the 18 has a slightly more open weave than prior years.

Has anyone had any fitment issues with a JDM grill? I am considering ordering one from JAPANPARTS.

Mine went in perfectly. Easy job. Good youtube videos out there too on how to do it. Videos recommend two people for dropping the bumper but I did it solo without much trouble.

Dropped the car off, Hope they figure things out!

I had this issue on the driver's seat of my new 2018 3.6R. They didn't tell me exactly what was causing it but I believe there is a TSB out on the matter. It's a known thing they should be able to fix.

First photoshoot with my DSLR. Can't wait to get more shots in the future.

 

What are those wheels? Been hunting a nice set of black rims...

I grease the contact points, and I do not use the (in my opinion completely useless) electronic parking brake

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What's completely useless about the parking brake? I use mine several times a day. I hate the POP on the transmission when coming out of park on an incline (something is loaded up with tension and doesn't like the sudden release). In fact, in some hairbrained idea of trying to preserve the CVT a little bit, my routine when parking is foot brake, parking brake, neutral, release foot brake, shift to park. Comes out of park later like a dream and with no pop. Gentle. As a car you want to last forever ought to.

There's plenty of posts elsewhere in the forum about a TSB for the new steering rack spring. Generally, the symptom is a rattle from the front driver side wheel well area (like a strut bearing or the like) while the car is cold and driven over uneven roads, like alligator cracked asphalt or chipseal. After a few minutes it seems to go away. There is a TSB regarding this that does not apply to all years in which the symptoms present. My 18 Legacy 3.6R was not included in the span of models Subura identified, but the dealer tried it anyway and it cured my issue. The car is also still under warranty.

If this sounds like a fit, check out the TSB and mention this to your service department. I believe its a pretty easy and not expensive fix even if your car is not covered otherwise.

I have a 2018 3.6r and have no stability problems, I drive on long trips at 70-85 mph. I did change out the rasb to 20mm right after I bought the car so I don't know what it was like with the smaller stock bar.

What's done is done for this guy and he's happy now. But I did the same thing as you the day I brought the car home with a fatter RSB. Never seemed to wander except when pushed by a semitruck air dam (everything does). I also had the TSB spring replacement in the rack to fix a rattle and it seemed to snug up the steering feel ever so slightly (maybe just in my head).

I've put 18,000 miles on my Legacy 3.6R since I brought it home in June - a lot of highway miles. Loved every mile.

No. Replacing that spring does not affect suspension alignment.

I understand the spring doesn't. And I don't know the process of changing it, but if it includes popping inner or outer tie rod ends out of place maybe that part was botched. It seems by your response the spring can be changed without doing that, so go figure.

I have a 2016 2.5 Premium with just 31K on it. We have had the mystery rattle going over sharp, small bumps. That began about 9 months ago, and I only recently had time to take it in. A local independent shop thought it was the left front suspension strut, but I noticed it only happened going straight ahead, thus suspected the rack. This thread alerted me to the TSB, and the dealer agreed and installed the new tension spring which completely fixed the rattle. BUT, buyer beware, the new tension spring makes the steering stiff on center, so that it feels numb and does not return readily to center from small deflections. Thus you must watch the road like a hawk. Also, if you use the lane departure monitor, it will set up an amplifying oscillation -- drift right and it will correct left AND THEN STICK with a left deflection so the car careens across the lane to the left, then corrects sharply to the right when it crosses the left lane paint, then the RIGHT correction sticks because the wheel doesn't center, and you'd better intervene or you're headed off the road at a sharp angle. I brought it back and the tech asserts this is just a feature of the revised spring, and that it may ease up a bit with wear. I might have preferred the rattle. It's really not an acceptable tradeoff and I may trade out of the car. This is just poor mechanical design, steering shouldn't be a problem on a modern car.

Not my experience. I have a 2018 Legacy 3.6R and the spring fixed my rattle and had no effect on my steering. Sorry about your luck. Maybe it needs an alignment because the techs somehow goofed up your toe-in when taking apart the rack for the spring? No idear. Good luck.

The traditional "saggy butt" spacer they sell is 3/8" and is just plates with holes, but the thicker ones (1" and 1.5") do. In my opinion, the 1" is too much - looking at the images, the rear wheel arch is now higher than the front, when it's supposed to be a half inch or so lower, and the car is very visible raked. That's likely going to mess with weight distribution and braking.

Yeah, depends on the look you like. An empty car with the OE 15mm saggy butt look is not my thing. And soon as I put a couple of suitcases in the back its even worse. Now it tends to look level when loaded for the highway, and subtly raked when just me in the car. In hindsight I probably would have gone with the 3/4" if they had them in stock for an equal wheel arch look, but I'm not disappointed with the look the 1" provides. To most people it looks level anyway (just ask my girlfriend lol).

For a highway cruiser and gentle driving I can't discern any difference in handling. If you pushed it hard the negative characteristics may show - couldn't say. Also, I'm not disappointed with the headlight aim (untouched) as I was getting flashed by oncoming traffic anytime I had a suitcase in back before... The only other mod I did was the beefier rear sway bar. I do a LOT of highway driving (15K on this car since June 18) and I've loved every single mile of it. Loved it. And the 3.6R gets really decent mileage on the highway if you don't drive aggressively.

Interesting. The dealership was saying that the rear seats needed to be removed. I'm excited to hear that this is not the case

 

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

Nope. Just laid them down. No tools required to get where you need to go - just the 14mm wrench to loosen the two nuts per strut.

Just curious why do u recommend aluminum over HDPE?

I'm told the HDPE spacers are just smooth holes, and they require washers, etc - whereas the aluminum ones are threaded. So when you're fishing everything back into place, I'd guess the aluminum ones are a little easier to deal with - no chance of things coming off their studs or bolts.

The aluminum spacer threads down onto the bolt (which replaces the stud) like a big one-inch nut.

How much interior removal was required? That's my biggest hangup.

 

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

The FSM section on removing interior panels which we’re referred to by the FSM on this job is unnecessary. All you need to do is essentially remove the cargo liner and spare tire cover. Without poppimg any plastic anchors you can lift the carpet a little to access the the two 14mm nuts anchoring the strut towers. I could even reach both the strut tower nuts and the actual strut body in the wheel well at the same time which made removal amd installation an easy one person job.

The pic I posted is from the hatch looking toward the driver rear strut which has been removed.

How much interior removal was required? That's my biggest hangup.

 

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

The FSM section on removing interior panels which we’re referred to by the FSM on this job is unnecessary. All you need to do is essentially remove the cargo liner and spare tire cover. Without poppimg any plastic anchors you can lift the carpet a little to access the the two 14mm nuts anchoring the strut towers. I could even reach both the strut tower nuts and the actual strut body in the wheel well at the same time which made removal amd installation an easy one person job.

After finding this thread, I mentioned the TSB to my dealer when reporting the rattle I'd been hearing. I was sure it was the same thing.

They said the TSB does not apply to my model (just the 17 models) but they DID IT ANYWAY for me.

Problem solved. LOVE IT. Seems the steering may have even tightened up a tad too.

Anyhow, problem gone and I love having the quiet ride again - even though it was only in the first ten minutes when it was cold.

Thanks LHM Subaru Boise.

Did you have to change the studs?

Yes, but it was easy. Just used a c-clamp to press them out. A box end wrench a little bigger than the stud, the nut to push against, and they popped right out pretty easy.

The Subtle Solutions kit includes bolts - they fit snug in the old stud holes so I don't expect any slopping around, and the bolts thread into and through the spacers (sucking them tight against the strut mount plate).

I attached some photos that better shows this.

Ended up with the rear wheel arch about 1" higher that the front wheel arch. Factory arch height in the back was about 1/2" lower than front arch.

Installed the 1" Subtle Solutions spacers today. A piece of cake and not as hard as the FSM made it seem (minimal interior panel removal).

The 1" spacers give the car a very subtle rake, which I like - preferred to the saggy butt. I was shooting for equalizing the front and rear wheel arches and I got a little bit more than that. Remember, the spacer height on the strut does not equal the lift at the wheel 1:1 because of suspension articulation. I got a little more than I was shooting for. I'd recommend a 3/4" spacer if you are shooting for equalizing the wheel arches (which technically would give you a rake but probably unnoticeable). Subtle Solutions was out of stock on those at the time I ordered.

I'd also recommend the aluminum spacers. They were a breeze to install. Everything bolted tight, no washers, no sloppiness. Easy as 1-2-3.

The lower control arm removal and replacement was a breeze. This is really a very easy job and - first time - took me all of a couple hours from first tool out to last tool away.

Recommended: Subtle Solutions 1" aluminum spacers to fix the saggy butt.

Off to get the wheel alignment tomorrow, just because.

Anyone with pics or experienced recommendations on appropriate size spacers?

I know the different wheel arcs inherently add to the saggy butt look but really, it does have a saggy butt with very little loading at all. Also, when lightly loaded (a carry on bag and a 40-pound pelican case) I get folks flashing brights at me because the sag obviously lifts my low beams...

I do like a subtly raked look. I put overload springs from Rallitek on my 01 OBW, lifting the front 1/2" and the back 1". It looks awesome! Handles better, doesn't squat on loaded camping trips... I should have done that mod to the OBW years ago!

So far I haven't seen any spring mods spelled out very clearly for an 18 3.6R Legacy... but I'm thinking 1/2" spacers in the back would be a good start. Probably give Subtle Solutions a call today. [edit: as expected, called SS, fitment is the same for all 6th gens, folks just haven't updated their catalogs]

If I go this route I'll share before/after pics.

Car porn! Finally got 'er done. 20% tint complete, 20mm RSB, dealer accessories installed, JDM grill exchanged. Picked up Thursday to take her out of town for work, and already have over 700 miles on... better slow that down... a little. Love this car. Love the lines (those rear quarter panels are something!), the handling, ample power, low rpm cruising. 31mpg first two tanks of gas (not ripping it too hard yet). Better than my EJ25 Outback ever got. Proud pappy!

Had a day off so took her out for a photoshoot - here's a smattering. Might be of interest for some that may be considering the side moldings (which were hard for me to find installed images of online).

Just scroll down

http://ssdsubaru.blogspot.com/?m=1

Thanks for the source but I was really wondering what peoples opinions of them are that have used them. Not knowing any better, it just seems like part of the "kit" that folks check the box on when hot rodding their car - one of those things that theoretically might make a subtle difference on a race track, or look cool when they pop the hood around enthusiasts, but not really make a hill of beans difference when it comes down to it. On the other hand, what I've read about the RSB conversion IS a noticeable difference on a daily driver.

I put urethane bushings and Rallytech higher compression rate springs on my Outback a couple years ago and dammit I wish I'd done that the first month I had that car. OE height higher spring rate on front, 1" lift overload springs on back, urethane sway bar bushings front and rear and this thing tracks around higher speed curves with a lot less body roll and made this daily driver a lot more enjoyable (to me - it DOES jar a little harder on bumps of course but I bought an Outback not a Cadillac).

With the heavier 3.6 yoked up, I'm, wondering if there may be something to reinforcing those towers say, when someone wants to play on the twisty curvy mountain roads of the West...

At that price though it's almost worth the experiment...

I searched for a thread on 6th Gen front strut tower braces and came up zip.

Thoughts on front strut tower braces? Before and after experiences? I don't want theory - I know that part and don't contest it - I want someone to tell me they can honestly feel a difference and not just a trick in their head. I'm skeptical. Along with a 20mm RSB kit I'm also thinking about this mod on a 2018 3.6R, and that's about it, mechanically. Seems the two mods together might make a nice pairing.

Lastly, any thought on the rigid steering coupler?

I want my ride to be a nicely handling highway and twisty-road mountain road car (lots of that around here). Lots of miles going on this thing.