underpowerd

try on some salomons.

I'm still grinding through my daily worn (long discontinued) eskape gtx's -- settled on them during the vain search to find a satisfactory transition from my old lowa jannus (everything sort of duty... for years) -- turned out to be the second best shoes I've ever owned.

http://www.cruisincaskets.com/_/rsrc/1372376216655/home/DSC_0049%20web.jpg

the irrational mod/lgt-dependence bug will probably get something like this out of me before I bail.

...if you're like me, right after you stopped laughing at the silliness, you said to yourself: 'Is that alcantara?"

Invisible Glass made by Stoner is a great glass cleaning product and is available pretty much everywhere. Ammonia free so it's safe for tinted windows as well, and it's cheap. Paper towels and that product will work fine.

been using for many years; trick for that 'suby grime' is to not rush right in and start wiping, but let it soak for about 20s after you spray it. two passes like that clears just about anything.

Well my valve cover gasket on the passenger side is leaking and the oil is smoking off the up pipe so it's time to get those replaced. I'm planning to do the driver side as well as the spark plugs all at once since I'm already in there and a few shops recommended doing so. At this point, here is the part list:

 

Right Side Valve Cover Gasket: 13272AA190

Left Side Valve Cover Gasket: 13272AA140

Half Moon Gaskets:: 13293AA051 (x4)

Spark Plug Gaskets:11051AA070 (x4)

Spark Plugs: 22401AA670 (x4)

 

Given the car has 100k miles on it I have been told I should replace the crank case breather hose as well while I am in there, is that true? And also is there any other parts I should order as preventative maintenance to switch out while doing the valve covers?

you'll know if the breather has to go if you cant pry it off without breaking it

Why are you guys trying to remove the ball joints is beyond me.

you don't see the joy in this?

i believe the spring you're talking about is a clip that sits in that small groove at the tip of the axle; you want that back on there.

i find it best to give the axle a few rotational-type shakes when trying to slide it back in; you can feel when the splines line up, and you can begin sliding in; but there will still be some clearance between the cup and case when you finish the slide -- at that point you can just give the axle a little pop on the hub end with something blunt/dense to compress that spring clip you mentioned and fully seat the axle.

it doesn't take too much force, so i typically don't worry about damaging the threads on that end before giving said gentle pop -- but protect them if you feel you may want to.

if you have a PA car with big miles like that, invest the $10-15 in a diamond wedge from any home improvement store; with a decent sledge behind it, it will very likely save you much pain in knocking that lbj free vs. any conventional wedge/pry attempt. and as max said, some kind of impact and PBB are paramount.

i've also reused the axle nut -- so long as you can re-crimp it.

good luck.

thanks frank -- bah, i didn't even think of temp sens. you're probably right -- i was hoping like hell for a fuse/capacitor. pics attached; i was referring to the red guy in the center.

here's the thing: i had a fluke short of two wires (YR, Blk) of the giant harness (B21?) care of the turbo oil feed. when the two ultimately wore through enough to short, it was taking F/B#12 out instantly @ 'on' key turn iirc -- being a 20* evening, it activated my AAA card, lol.

so as i see it, the #12 fuse did its job with the direct short, but it appeared that the YR wire had been exposed far longer than the black, and as i understand the pinouts this wire is a very heavy fellow with regards to the 5eat and may have seen some intermittent (-) contact, again via the oil feed which i imagine must carry some ground.

i may be jumping to conclusions, but my mind can't help but to tie my long-standing P0700/740 (tcc sol) to this unfortunate sneaky situation; i just think that if it were something more mechanical like worn clutches (as some others have reported with this code), i'd have certainly seen a failure by now. i have no slipping whatsoever, and i get the sport flash on proper cue (in M2+ on slight incline @ 1/8 throttle or so [mostly M3+]) to suggest procedural vb replacement.

One for the top brass:

What is the task of the lone exposed diode on the VB unit (capacitor, fuse, switching, volt. reg, etc.), and what symptom(s) would one expect to encounter if fully/partially burned?

TIA, gents.

can anybody field this one (mr. dave/frank ?)? can snap a pic if description unclear...

One for the top brass:

What is the task of the lone exposed diode on the VB unit (capacitor, fuse, switching, volt. reg, etc.), and what symptom(s) would one expect to encounter if fully/partially burned?

TIA, gents.

looks familiar -- at least you weren't jumping up and down on it when it happened like i was...or were you?

30 minutes later, i forgot the $150 i just dropped on the 1/2" impact the instant it took that nut off in < 10 seconds.

when you see the inner spline end of your replacement, you'll id the 'clip' and get the idea; it simply a plain open-end ring that sits in a groove almost at the very end of the shaft. people have characterized the removal as a 'pop,' which is pretty fair; as you carefully pry, you'll feel the pop of the clip releasing, and immediately gain some clearance -- then the rest slides out like butter.

the seal is seated inside; if you're deliberate and take reasonable care, you shouldn't harm it or disturb it at all during removal.

as for installing your replacement, as you guide in, 'feel' your splines into alignment. then, holding that in place, give the opposite (hub) end of the axle a tap with something blunt and a bit weighty (protect the threaded end if you like). i find the clip really responds to method this as opposed to trying to force-push the axle in.

best luck.

finished at a relaxed pace in >2hrs today. no s/t, no lift, and only hand + electric impact.

the hero? PBB & this little guy, $10 diamond wedge i had originally bought for an LBJ that looked like it belonged to the titanic (same duo helped to make very short work of that, also).

http://simage1.sportsmansguide.com/adimgs/m/2/284818i_ts.jpg

holding by the business end turns it into a tight quarters precision hand-sledge, hub leapt off in minutes also perfect for one-tap axle-popping into trans.

Well, finished changing my axle yesterday...

Don't feel too bad, I got washed out on my first try last weekend; I know from peeking inside the threadhole of the pinch that my LBJ must be your guy's twin. I miraculously got the bolt out (some of it in the form of a tight little cloud of rust) with an electric impact, but my crowbar didn't have the girth to budge the joint more than 1/32 or so; I'll be going back in with a diamond wedge.

I also made quick work of stripping the allen on the EL, and resorted to visegripping the inner washer/seat to get it back on.

Add my voice to the swelling chorus that NE cars really turn this apparently straightforward DIY down a byway through some unhospitable and profanity-evoking territory.

"The salvation of all that is good is only this -- at times of great import, evil beings sometimes fall strangely blind."

S. King

--------

"The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance... it is the illusion of knowledge."

S. Hawking

Should have done this already - sorry.

 

no sorries; i wouldn't touch it if i had a made mind to return it -- but i know the feeling of getting stuck in the middle of a big install, and weighing the prospect of the waiting-return game vs. what could be a quick fix. either way, hope it works out well and fast.

could be an oversized weld on the inside of flapper's 'arm' or casting burr on the wg area of the housing (near the hole).

or could be an issue with the actuator assembly: i.e., improperly mounted or spaced, spring/joints may be binding, etc.

if you feel like getting into it:

releasing the actuator arm via small e-clip may be a good start to isolate whether it's an actuator or internal wg issue. you can better inspect the underside of the wg flapper with the arm unattached.

if that checks out, then after you reattach the arm, manually opening the wg from the external arm joint should be relatively easy with a pair of vice grips or the like, so you can try to feel/see what's stopping the actuator.

there should be linear resistance to opening, but a smooth travel. use a rag with the grips to keep from leaving gouges on the joint.

all that said, if it's a brand new turbo, and everybody's qc missed that, shame on them. just make sure if you seem to fix it, that it's a consistent and sure fix before installing.

best luck.

Adhesives.... I didn't fully respect that aspect when I was "wrapping" the upper section of my downpipe with aluminum foil layers all bound with HD HVAC aluminum tape. My car smoked and smelled like poo burning for weeks... Mrs was not amused. Its all but undetectable now but the adhesive from that aluminum tape, while good stuff and shows no sign of deteriorating, melts, runs and stinks at downpipe temps.

 

I'm assuming the adhesive spray people use on cloth wraps doesn't do that. Does anyone know if the DEI stuff Seventh used is rated at high enough temp to use on a dp?

well, the foil layer is backed by a run-of-the-mill fiber 'header' wrap; but of course, then comes the clear adhesive.

from what i recall of the applications listed/promoted on the packaging, i wouldn't attempt to use it directly on any exhaust components.

^ Good point - still looks better than cloth heat wrap. I wonder if you put this on and then sprayed it with some kind of clearcoat (at least on the less heated parts, i.e., plastics and non-direct exhaust parts) if it would maintain it's reflectivity and better hold its adhesion?

or maybe a bit of that 3m adhesive spray beforehand?

Here is an install and review thread about the BP Mod on a WRX :

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2169450

 

I'm going to have to get some of that DEI heat shield.

does its shielding job well ( have been using on fmic pipes, intake/ Al intake heatshield for very long time) -- a bare hand touch comparison tells all.

over time with cycling the adhesive leaves something to be desired on some surfaces (like the plastic/nylon parts).

Quote:

Originally Posted by underpowerd http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/viewpost.gif

if you can build it to the standards you detail, you'll own the segment.

people here tend to get wet for ipt vb, because as you said, they're the basically only game in town.

i wouldn't worry about establishment v. individual; enthusiasts want pudding, period.

if you could offer a radically better performing product, at a competitive cost, with equal user install effort/downtime/reliability, i don't see any reason you couldn't become the go-to for what is already a fairly popular mod for power-hungry 5eat'ers.

I dont have a 5EAT, but I can attest to the high standards of ClimberD. If he says he's going to get something done and at standard X, you can be assured that it will meet or exceed that standard. While he may take a little longer on some aspects (ah... the external wastegate, ) it is assured to be professional and perfect. He obsesses about things you will never see and that provide 0 gain, so when it comes to things that actually help performance or that you'll see, well you know where this is going.

i meant my earlier post as an assurance, rather than any question of his work

CD knows (despite a memorable disagreement ) that he has my utmost respect for the mass of dedicated and productive effort he's displayed and shared here.

this one can really turn the 5eat on its ear, i'm sure i'd be an eventual consumer if this came to fruition -- i'm all for a success story here; for CD, and the community.