underpowerd

try on some salomons. I'm still grinding through my daily worn (long discontinued) eskape gtx's -- settled on them during the vain search to find a satisfactory transition from my old lowa jannus (everything sort of duty... for years) -- turned out to be the second best shoes I've ever owned.

http://www.cruisincaskets.com/_/rsrc/1372376216655/home/DSC_0049%20web.jpg the irrational mod/lgt-dependence bug will probably get something like this out of me before I bail. ...if you're like me, right after you stopped laughing at the silliness, you said to yourself: 'Is that alcantara?"

been using for many years; trick for that 'suby grime' is to not rush right in and start wiping, but let it soak for about 20s after you spray it. two passes like that clears just about anything.

thanks frank -- bah, i didn't even think of temp sens. you're probably right -- i was hoping like hell for a fuse/capacitor. pics attached; i was referring to the red guy in the center. here's the thing: i had a fluke short of two wires (YR, Blk) of the giant harness (B21?) care of the turbo oil feed. when the two ultimately wore through enough to short, it was taking F/B#12 out instantly @ 'on' key turn iirc -- being a 20* evening, it activated my AAA card, lol. so as i see it, the #12 fuse did its job with the direct short, but it appeared that the YR wire had been exposed far longer than the black, and as i understand the pinouts this wire is a very heavy fellow with regards to the 5eat and may have seen some intermittent (-) contact, again via the oil feed which i imagine must carry some ground. i may be jumping to conclusions, but my mind can't help but to tie my long-standing P0700/740 (tcc sol) to this unfortunate sneaky situation; i just think that if it were something more mechanical like worn clutches (as some others have reported with this code), i'd have certainly seen a failure by now. i have no slipping whatsoever, and i get the sport flash on proper cue (in M2+ on slight incline @ 1/8 throttle or so [mostly M3+]) to suggest procedural vb replacement.

can anybody field this one (mr. dave/frank ?)? can snap a pic if description unclear...

One for the top brass: What is the task of the lone exposed diode on the VB unit (capacitor, fuse, switching, volt. reg, etc.), and what symptom(s) would one expect to encounter if fully/partially burned? TIA, gents.

looks familiar -- at least you weren't jumping up and down on it when it happened like i was...or were you? 30 minutes later, i forgot the $150 i just dropped on the 1/2" impact the instant it took that nut off in < 10 seconds.

finished at a relaxed pace in >2hrs today. no s/t, no lift, and only hand + electric impact. the hero? PBB & this little guy, $10 diamond wedge i had originally bought for an LBJ that looked like it belonged to the titanic (same duo helped to make very short work of that, also). http://simage1.sportsmansguide.com/adimgs/m/2/284818i_ts.jpg holding by the business end turns it into a tight quarters precision hand-sledge, hub leapt off in minutes also perfect for one-tap axle-popping into trans.

"The salvation of all that is good is only this -- at times of great import, evil beings sometimes fall strangely blind." S. King -------- "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance... it is the illusion of knowledge." S. Hawking

^no, turbine housing swap is pretty much a 'tab A-slot B' kind of affair. there's a little finesse to knocking it loose after you undo the band, but a little careful percussion should do; minding that wheel and not beating up the housing are the concerns.

no sorries; i wouldn't touch it if i had a made mind to return it -- but i know the feeling of getting stuck in the middle of a big install, and weighing the prospect of the waiting-return game vs. what could be a quick fix. either way, hope it works out well and fast.

could be an oversized weld on the inside of flapper's 'arm' or casting burr on the wg area of the housing (near the hole). or could be an issue with the actuator assembly: i.e., improperly mounted or spaced, spring/joints may be binding, etc. if you feel like getting into it: releasing the actuator arm via small e-clip may be a good start to isolate whether it's an actuator or internal wg issue. you can better inspect the underside of the wg flapper with the arm unattached. if that checks out, then after you reattach the arm, manually opening the wg from the external arm joint should be relatively easy with a pair of vice grips or the like, so you can try to feel/see what's stopping the actuator. there should be linear resistance to opening, but a smooth travel. use a rag with the grips to keep from leaving gouges on the joint. all that said, if it's a brand new turbo, and everybody's qc missed that, shame on them. just make sure if you seem to fix it, that it's a consistent and sure fix before installing. best luck.

@ sparkly fix, well done.

^you owe me a kidney

well, the foil layer is backed by a run-of-the-mill fiber 'header' wrap; but of course, then comes the clear adhesive. from what i recall of the applications listed/promoted on the packaging, i wouldn't attempt to use it directly on any exhaust components.