thegiraffe

What kind of bpv did you end up going with?

I wanted to stay full recirculation and go with a design that looked as close to stock as possible.

So I went with the Turbosmart TS-0203-1223 Kompact 34 mm Plumb Back Universal Fit Blow Off Valve.

It was around 125 on Amazon, and I have to say it is working really well. I am thinking my BPV might of been not holding boost very well. But I don't have any scientific data to prove it.

I also zip tied the vacuum line before I slid it on and put a little spit on the barb fitting to make it more slippery and hopefully help glue it a bit. I remember hearing people use to use hair spray on barb fittings for extra bite.

Can't just tell the car to bite the pillow, I'm going in dry?

Hmm, It just doesn't feel as good or satisfying when the part slides into place.

I just installed an upgraded BPV yesterday as a pre-caution. I feel like the car is holding boost better but it is not a scientific test. The is some more noise but it is only re-circ so it could just be my mind.

I would definitely agree, if you can remove the passenger side radiator fan it will make your life alot easier. Its just two 10mm bolts, an electrical connection that is easy to get at and wiggle the fan out around the upper radiator hose. The hose connecting the BPV to the Charge pipe was the hardest to remove. I did this when the car was cold, it might be easier if the car is warm. The Clamps holding the BPV are both the locking spring and standard worm gear type. I would recommend trying to "lock" the spring clamp underneath first and then loosing the worm gear second so the screw part doesnt slide to the underside of the hose. It is helpful if you have a mechnics mirror for this.

When removing it seems like removing the hose from the BPV to turbo inlet has to go first and then the Recirc hose is second to wiggle out. To install you have to do Recirc hose and then turbo inlet hose because of the lack of wiggle room.

I have one of these tools and it always makes my life easier for trying to pry parts out of tubes. Just becareful not to stab yourself or anthing else, but I like this tool because you can generate alot of localized leverage and get between teh part and tube. Here is the link:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/lisle-4148/tools---equipment-16488/tools-17919/mechanics-tools-16816/cooling-system-tools-18949/hose-remover-tool/80230/4414194

I have found this removal tools helps seperate the parts that glue themselves togethor overtime without damaging the hose or OEM part. You can feel the parts letting go of eachother through the tool.

I would also recommend using a little silionce spray during reassembly, I never like putting parts in completly dry. but all you need is a little spray and dab to coat the surface.

I have extra-s probably closing in on a change soon, I get some rough changes when cold but I take my time and just nudge it. Going back to first almost never happens, lol. So you are not alone. I would probably go for the extra mt or motul first then go for the redline if that doesn't do it. Or you know whichever is easier to get for you.

 

I have a few dealers for redline and motul near me so I will probably go with the motul on the next change. The extra-s is pretty good once warm though. I think it has been discontinued.

^^ Thanks for this and the other comments. I am definitely not the best manual driver, but its good it know I am not alone with these concerns. As I drive the car more I am sure I will just learn how to work around these.

Does anyone else have trouble shifting into 1st with the LGT 6MT when the car is moving and also with the 1 -2 shift? All other shifts seem fine but those two "moves" feel very forced. It seems to only like to go into first if I am at a dead stop which has been really frustrating. I am also wondering if there is a wear in period sinse the transmission was just rebuilt and its only been a couple hundred miles and I am just impatient / not a fantastic manual driver. I am in a colder climate so their has potential for a very big temp swing and I have been trying to double cltuch to help with the smothness.

I have fresh Subaru High Performance 75W90 in the transmission (not extra-s) and I was thinking about switching to Motul 300 75W90 as a first attempt at the concern?

Does anyone have any recommendations or similar expiernces with the LGT 6MT transmission?

Edit: Well I overlooked the link and tired to find all of the information I could on this.

Is this still the recommend fluid setup for the 6MT?

I was actually running 3:1. And I'd go 100%,actually, or mix with Redline 75w90NS instead of the Motul 300.

 

Currently I am 100% Redline 75W90NS ("non-slip") which is a GL5 ester-based gear oil without the friction modifiers that normally go in GL5s, specifically designed for transaxles (Such as Subaru and Porche) where the same oil has to lubricate the front differential hypoid gears AND simultaneously allow the synchros the grab. My understanding is that Motul 300 doesn't excel in that second arena, though I haven't directly compared it, so thats anecdotal.

 

 

https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=58304

 

In comparison to the 3:1 LWSP/Motul-300 mix, I would say that this is slightly less good at synchro engagement in 2nd when cold, but otherwise similar and far far far superior to the factory fill.

 

Poor synchro engagement causing difficult shifts in low temperatures is caused by high fluid viscosity at those temperatures, while poor synchro engagement/grinding when hot is caused by friction modifiers or worn out synchros. The LWSP excels here because the base fluid is like a 30 weight oil, but it effectively has suspended moly grease in it giving it the shockloading (think - hard shifts) protection of a 140 weight gear oil.

 

While cold, I find that I routinely have to double clutch with rev matching to get it into 2nd while down shifting. However it seems easier to engage 2nd coming fom 4th rather than 3rd. 1st engages easier than 2nd, so I am guessing that there is a fluid-flow design flaw in these transmissions around the 2nd gear synchros.