Kukazula

I am back from the dead, and looking to finish this son-of-a-***** this year.

rims and tires are here. decided to go with an arduino set up for now... as i dont want to get too crazy before i get this thing running reliably. dont want to count the chickens before they hatch.

Brembos had an issue. they have been swapped out with a new set, and are being powdercoated at the moment.

02 wrx sti brake master cylinder with a 1-1/16ths bore and booster are on the way, to support the bigger brakes. steel lines have been added aswell. headers are here, invidia q300 is here, working on welding up a y pipe, if the weather will ever behave.

having engine wiring harness issues due to broken plugs, working on a solution.

for other swappers, be aware the FPR in the 30r is exclusive to the car and extremely expensive. get one from your donor. also, make sure you take all the belt drive items, as h6's have 6 teeth on the belt, vs 5 on the 2.5's. take the power steering lines aswell, as they have slightly different fittings.

will post updates this summer.

Were you able to (or did you) compare USDM 3.0R ECU vs JDM 3.0R 6MT ECU and maps? Curious since I have a full JDM 3.0R 6MT engine harness with ECU, BUI and all that jazz, except for instrument cluster. Bought couple of years ago during late night red-eye "just browsing" sessions.

Sorry for replying almost a year later. I'm a lame human being.

Life got a little messy there, but we're back in business now. I was able to compare the ECU's, problem is, security is nearly impossible to crack. that leaves you two options. 1, Standalone aftermarket ECU, or, switching an entire harness, including every single computer attached, the gauge cluster and a matching key. decided it wasnt worth my time, swapped in a matching harness.

Just order one from him, he's happy to make one for you. Thats what I did.

Who is this "him"?

That's fantastic to know. I have the non-dccd version from a 2005 spec b. I believe mine is the DBA, I'd have to go back and confirm... But now I know that grabbing the si drive switch center console will be worth my time. Thank you.

Are you tuning this yourself? Is this all on a stock ecu?

Edit: On second thought I'll go investigate other posts you've likely made on this site. I'm not good at forums

Dropped my car off for the swap today. Should be 3-20 days.

 

We have CANBUS mostly mapped out for the 5EAT now - and enough data logs to work a few things out afterwards if needed. I'll post the CAL IDs and byte IDs up shortly.

 

If anyone needs part lists or pinouts before then please let me know. I plan to get this well documented and available for reference sometime soon, probably this summer.

 

Peter

Can you send me the pinouts and CANBUS info? Also the CAL IDs and byte IDs? I think if I send this info to haltech, it'll make their lives easier.

Of course I'll forward you any information they give me aswell. Might be able to come up with some smooth tunes if we can collab info, eh?

hey guys. Been awhile, sorry.

The hydra 2.7 has been sold, it was impossible to get any real support for it.

I'm saving to buy a haltech elite 2500. Guys there said they'd help me with base maps, and hooked me up with a haltech tuner near me.

The snow is finally melting so I'm getting ready to start working again.

First order of business.... I met a guy with an 08 3.0r. he's selling me the entire harness, with the fuse box, immobilizer, key, ecu, everything.

I figure this is a good place to start for the haltech install. Swap the whole damn thing and make my life easier.

I'm also taking the GT seats, and the dash since mine is cracked.

I have the usdm stock sat nav for sale if anyone is interested.

Im also offering up the original black leather seats from the car. Not in the best shape, but cheap. Pm me for info.

GT Seats are getting reupholstered. Because I can.

Rims are being shipped as we speak. Once I come up with the cash for the haltech, I should have a running vehicle. I'll post small updates to progress whenever possible.

Thanks Max. For some reason I didn't think of that.

Update as promised. It was easier to do it on imgur.

http://imgur.com/a/jlElneW

If I'm wrong on something, you'd like to offer advice or have any cool ideas, hit me up!

Updates ahoy!

Sorry guys. Been working 60-70 hours a week lately and every waking moment is spent on the car.

I have a question for you guys, hopefully someone can knowledge bomb me. I promise I'll do an update post when I get home tonight! Its good stuff you'll like it.

So to my question... ( Need the info so I can order parts today)

I'm swapping the rear brakes to the 07 WRX FHI 2 pots. I've ordered the calipers.

I haven't ordered the brackets, rotors, backing plates, parking brake parts... Because I'm not sure what to get.

I'm starting with the legacy NA backing plates, not the GT. I can't figure out if they are the same or different.

So the question remains... Use my old plates with brackets? Order WRX brackets and modify? Order different plates and still use brackets?

I would prefer to just buy WRX rear rotors and a parking brake kit that works. I really just seem to be having a hard time finding that info.

Thanks in advance guys! Also, spam my inbox if I forget to update.

Upgrading and don't need the stock shocks anymore. Less than 10k miles. $150 plus shipping

5mt 4.44 rear diff, $150 plus shipping

Dark blue painted 2 pot/1 pot brakes and brackets, no rotors since they're boned. $60 plus shipping

5mt driveline, needs u-joints. $40 plus shipping

JDM 6 speed clutch and pressure plate, I'm guessing 20k miles... $40 plus shipping

I can get you pictures if you need, its just pouring rain currently and I'm in pajamas

This might be helpful taken from here https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/difference-between-2-5i-and-gti-167291.html?p=3495909

 

The 2.5i and the 2.5T (LGT) use the same reinforced transmission housing for all 4th gen Legacys/Outbacks.

 

The gear-ratios/final drives between the 2.5i and 2.5GT Legacys are different and so the rear diffs are not the same ratios (from an LSD nor from a ratio perspective)

 

2005 2.5i Legacy 5MT

 

1st 3.454

2nd 2.062

3rd 1.448

4th 1.088

5th .780

Rear Diff (non-LSD): 3.90

 

Compared to the

 

2005 2.5GT 5MT

1st 3.166

2nd 1.882

3rd 1.296

4th .972

5th .738

Rear Diff (LSD): 4.111

 

There were some subsequent changes to the gear ratios to make better use of the VF46-huffed 2.5GT power delivery, and none of the above really addresses the drivetrain (transmissions and final drive) differences between the LGT and the 07+ LGT Spec Bs.

__________________

So... I fall under the 2005 legacy limited 5mt with the non lsd 3.90 rear.

My question is, does mine fall under the 3.54 category and is it just 3.90 because the center diff is 1.1 and math? Or is the center diff in the original 5mt a 1:1? Can't seem to find that info.

Guess I'll go pull the thing off and do a turn count. Only reason I haven't so far is that it's still snowing here and I don't have a garage. Or a paved driveway...

Correct, I believe any STi or Spec B R180 is 3.54:1 or a 02-05 WRX with a manual transmission is the R160 you’d need.

To be absolutely sure you have the right ratio, you can pull the diff cover the the ring gear will be marked 39:11

Thanks Neal, I'll do that.

Anyone know the torque split (I know this is a controversial term) for a 3.9 front 1.1 center 3.54 rear set up? Just curious.

Also... Being that I'm having difficulty so far finding the correct diff, could I just swap the ring and pinion gears or is that a huge pain?

Correct, I believe any STi or Spec B R180 is 3.54:1 or a 02-05 WRX with a manual transmission is the R160 you’d need.

Awesome. Glad i didn't buy anything. I gotta pay better attention...

The interwebs aren't being very helpful currently. Lots of diffs of the wrong type, even more that aren't marked with fear ratios or diff codes.

Good thing I'm in Subaru rich Montana. Looks like I'm doing some yard-hopping.

Have you seen this yet? They're developing cast turbo manifolds for twins on the ez30r:

I saw this on my YouTube feed actually! I'm at work so I'm waiting till I get off to watch it in T-minus 5 hours

Update time finally!

Alright. So.

Bunch of weird stuff happened. Long story. Ended up having to source parts elsewhere... A few compromises were made but I think in the end I've found the best balance for me.

First order of business-

Transmission. I have acquired a JDM Subaru legacy 6mt off of a 3.0r model.

Model number is ty856wvdba. So here's my question (s)... My car is a 05 legacy 2.5i limited.

I'm pretty sure the transmission tunnel is the correct size for the 6spd. Confirmation would be nice ...

I'm having a super hard time confirming if the front CVS from my USDM 5mt will fit the JDM 6mt.

A chart I've found shows me that this trans originally came with a r160 3.9FD diff in the rear. So if I get that, rear shafts should still work, right? Or am I just getting myself in trouble with fitting a driveshaft? (4eat shaft)

Other items I have secured include:

Group N trans mount

Perrin short shift linkage and adapter set for a legacy specifically.

Exedy dual plate clutch and flywheel, all supporting stuff for pull style clutch

6mt shifter and reverse lockout

And a Hydra 2.7. I'll worry about this later.

For now, I'm looking at solving any issues with fitting this trans in the car, namely space for the trans, and diff/shafts combos.

Suggestions from experienced people as to what kind of diff I should choose and why would definitely be appreciated. I understand the differences on paper but I've never tried different diffs. (Vlsd, torsen, open...) Goal is a powerful yet comfortable cruiser. No track tramp by any means.

Tl:Dr 5mt CV's with a JDM ty856wvdba 6mt trans, an r160 rear diff at 3.90 FD, and a 4eat driveshaft should be a working combo, right?

Thank you all in advance. None of this would be possible without you legends

Too bad you are starting with a N/A H4 05 Legacy vs a H6 05 Legacy. It would be easier to swap a MT into that than to swap a H6 and 6MT into the 2.5i.

 

Have you considered a EG33 over the EZ30D?

I have considered the eg33. I ended up choosing the ez30 for 3 reasons.

1. The ez30 was designed to fit into that engine bay, and because of the way it was designed, the engine only ends up being about an inch longer than the 2.5, whereas the eg33 is much longer. Also, parts such as mounts and crossmembers are readily available.

2. Info from a few others I've spoken to on the subject are assuring me that 05-07 6mt sti trans will bolt straight up to a ez30.

3. Apparently with some upgraded connecting rods and perhaps a well done head gasket job, the ez30 tends to be quite resilient. Aftermarket parts are becoming more and more available for it, and I also want the avcs.

Since mine is already a manual stock, the trans tunnel should be suitable. Honestly I've worked extensively on Subarus and many other cars. There is almost nothing outside of a CVT trans that you can throw at me that would scare me mechanically. Wiring, canbus integration, and programming/tuning is what scares the living **** out of me.

Is the 05 NA limited manual (not sure on what lower spec US vehicles came as)?

If auto remember the trans tunnel is a different shape so a custom trans subframe is needed. If manual them the chassis is all the same.

 

Can Megasquirt do any CAN communication? Haven't previously heard of anyone trying but you'll be in for a whole heap of work getting basic car functions to work unless you piggyback it with the stock ECU. A more costly option would be an EMTron (MY06+) or Haltech (pre-MY06) ECU which has been proven to work on JDM Legacy’s with very few changes needed to wiring, besides adding extra wiring for additional cylinders of course. The CANBUS has been decoded for JDM and AUD vehicles so only minor work will be needed to carry that over to US vehicles.

It is a NA legacy limited manual. I am unsure of megasquirt's CAN abilities. I've done everything before with the exception of using an aftermarket ECU, so this is new territory for me. I was hoping to go with Megasquirt because I didn't really want to spend 1500+ on an ECU and I heard good things, but if I do need to fork over the cash I can, I'm just cheap.

Either way I'm not going to tune it myself. I'd probably break something.