John M

As someone with a dead engine in a car with 22k miles, I halfway want to know if this is possible with a 5MT...

 

There's probably a CEL code for Engine Replaced with GM V6. You know how fancy cars are these days!

 

Oh, and a major congrats on the first drive.

A 20g should be the smallest turbo you'd consider on a built 2.5 liter engine. Lag won't be a concern and power production will be much improved.

NSFW has found the fuel pump duty cycle tables but right now it's not a standard definition. Apparently it's different in each ROM revision so he's got to manually locate it for each ROM.

 

Once it's been made available for all ROMs, it's simply a matter of typing in 100% for all values -- no hardware change required. I'd want to do this even if I went to a relay so it'd have a steady trigger input.

The project hasn't really started nor am I getting the impression it will, aside from just talking about it.

 

Good luck should you ever decide to do something, frank_ster. /unsubscribe

 

Yep, all except for this post...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=88155&d=1280596803

 

 

Looks like a Buick engine in a Subaru to me.

I wonder if it would still be looking for that transmission controller if you simply flashed the ECU ROM from a 5MT car over yours. I don't think it would brick anything ....

When I found the pic I used above, I was actually looking for what we had around here -- all the cars were on 13's with full reverse offset, aka the "rollerskate" look.

 

Daytons are fine. 13-inch reverse Daytons on a fullsize Chevy sedan are another thing entirely. It was downright comical on Corollas and Sentras.

And to think just 15 years ago it was all about the tiniest wheels you could fit onto a car. Double points if they were reverse offset and the whole tire was outside the wheel well.

 

http://i38.tinypic.com/jtq44k.jpg

With respect to being at stoich under boost, with the factory tune my car did remain closed loop/14.7AFR until around 3-4psi.

 

That's what I think did most of the damage on my car. Not the stock tune but once I cranked the boost it exacerbated the situation. I applied the OL/CL fix long ago but the damage had already been done ever since the first turbo went in 2005.

 

I continued running the same MBC after my turbo/FMIC swap and logs showed I never got into positive pressure while still in closed loop.

I wouldn't consider piston replacement to be a prerequisite when building a 350-400whp Subaru. However, if the stockers do (and in my case, did) let go, I'm not about to replace them with another stock set.

Anybody got shots of a high-mileage teardown of an engine w/ forged pistons?

 

I think a lot of the issue is purely academic. Yes, forged pistons require looser tolerances and will cause more wear. How much more wear is the sticking point. Does it mean forged gets "only" 100k miles between rebuilds, or does it mean the block is good for 150k when stock pistons wouldn't wear that much until 300k?

 

I'm happy with the tradeoff. It'll take me another decade to reach 100k miles and being able to do so reliably is worth the rebuild cost sometime in the year 2018-2020.

The only thing that keeps it in perspective for me is having a truck to drive during the week. Even though it's a Hemi (and you know I've modded it), it makes the car feel really good when I get behind the wheel.

 

I hope to be able to give the car a nice round of mods in a month or two. A FMIC and FP Green, along with the required supporting mods, should make it a lot of fun to drive. I've owned the car three years this month and it's time for it to get a little quicker.

 

My truck has mods planned for it as well. If I change the cam, torque converter, and add headers, it should run low 14s which is pretty good for a quad cab 4x4

It's an amazing feat indeed, but I do have to wonder why you'd go through all that to add your own nav when you had OEM nav already? The other goodies in that double-DIN unit make sense but why all that to reduce the stock unit to simply a secondary display?

 

I guess most double-DIN setups that do DVD also do nav anyway, but I'd have skipped on duplicating the nav part.

Thanks for the info! If I end up using nav software with my carputer that can accept a speed signal for more accurate positioning, I know right where to go.

Lee - my pics show the first part of the mod in greater detail. Then do the second part of the mod in Pic 5 above and you're good to go.

 

http://www.moojohn.com/subaru/fogmod.html

 

 

Deer Killer -

 

I just don't want to use your pics without your consent. I'm too lazy to break out the camera this coming weekend when I do that part of the mod

Sounds good to me. May I add your step to my site (proper credit of course)?

 

I hadn't pulled the column apart or looked at the manuals. I just assumed that the switch did the disconnect when placed into the high beam position (that it wasn't being fed switched ground). That's what I get for assuming!

What are 2 wires are you connecting together at the switch harness when you do the last part of the mod? (I assume one is the ground source)

 

Does the fog on/off switch still work after this?

 

Except for that step it's identical to the steps I've already posted.

I started going to the DSM Shootout in 1995. As far as I know it's the oldest internet-based car club meeting, going back to at least 1992.

 

I must say that by far the most enjoyable part of it is all the cars & owners, not the "official" events planned for the day. Granted, we haven't had that long to mod our cars enough to really show them off but it's still a lot of fun.

 

You should have seen some of the engineers that worked in the DSM plant in Normal, IL, when they rode in an 11-sec car. It made a tad more than the 195 hp that it left the factory with

 

Anyway, at this point I'm about 80% able to go, regardless of which date(s) are chosen.

Won't both days kind of ruin the "gathering" aspect of it? After all, the coolest part is really a group of cars in one place, not just the plant...

I have several ideas on the cause of this. I'll work on it this weekend and report what I come up with.

Any updates on this? My new car is doing it and it had 8 miles on it when I picked it up. I hope it's the AC overcharging issue. Has anybody else had this fix the problem?

Drift Monkey -

 

I will do that the day I bring mine home. I've documented that mod for every car club I've been part of since 1992.

 

My method is to have them be able to come on with the parking lights and to stay on with high beam. That way they still turn off when you turn off the lights - you don't have to remember to hit the fog switch every time you leave the car (and it looks better than fogs alone).