Herda2448

Awesome thanks guys. Much appreciated. Ordered a short throw shifter and linkage a couple days ago. Going to order the bushings and spring to go with it. I’ll post how it goes and feels after install.

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That is pretty sweet. Good video, you made it look fast and easy. How much was all that ?

Did you figure out how to wire the HID kit?

Also are you still able to aim the lights?

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I am not new to the Subaru forums but I am to new to this third gen forum. I have a 03 Outback Limited 5mt.

I am looking to tighten up shift feel and throw. I am looking at bushing and the shift linkage replacement. But I also was looking for a shorter throw shifter. I am confused about which one will work for the outback since the shifters for the WRX look very similar to the one in my outback. If anybody has any input or know where I can find this answer on a specific thread, I would be appreciative. Thank you in advance.

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I really appreciate all your guys advice.

I was goin to order the exedy clutch kit, new clutch fork, and a tsk3 kit. But... the throw out bearing made it to complete failure.

So, due to down time restraints with shipping, repair, and my wife and I sharing a car, I ended up going with the OEM Exedy clutch kit. And buying some motul 300 gear oil, and also had the flywheel replaced.

I have the car back with all parts installed by a local shop.

As to be expected, the new clutch feels different. The friction point is higher, and it feels lighter in clutch pressure. But there is some vibration at around 1500 rpm in 3rd gear that wasn’t there with the old clutch. Also some slight shutter when slipping the clutch in 1st gear. Most vehicles I’ve owned have been manuals but I haven’t replaced a clutch. I just want to know if this is normal in a new clutch being broken in, and will it go away with time?

Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks in advance.

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Thanks for the reply.

I’ll take the overall none response about a stage 1 in a 2.5 is that it’s not even worth talking about haha. I know it was a long shot.

I am more looking longevity and a better shifter experience. I have Perrin short shift adaptor, brass washer, and the Perrin shifter slide (I forgot what it’s called).

My car is paid off so I am looking to own it as long as it’s cost effective. So I hope to deal with another clutch replacement at 300k. I am at 143k. Like I said hope.

I will take your advice about the tsk3 kit. I didn’t find a specific part number for the 2.5. Do you know if my 6mt is the same 6mt in the LGT?

I am going to buy:

Rear main seal, exedy clutch kit, tsk3 sleeve and bearing kit, and flywheel (recommendations?).

What other parts and pieces do you think would be worth while to replace or upgrade right now since they are going to be in there?

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Just putting this out there. Needless to say, I know that my NA 2.5i does not need a stage 1 clutch. But I have always thought that if I have to replace something anyway, might as well upgrade it.

I’m just looking for opinions of whether it is worth spending the extra couple hundred dollars for this upgrade on a NA 6mt since I’m going to be paying for labor anyway. I’d do it myself but just don’t have the shop tools to do it safely.

Also, will the LGT stage 1 kit fit my 2.5, and what other parts would have to come with it for this kind of upgrade.

What do you guys think?

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Well those were the explanations and facts I really appreciate to hear from some more experienced folks.

I guess the tube seals and valve cover gaskets will just be added to the list of to do’s, along with the throw out bearing/clutch kit.

I appreciate your guy’s insight.

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Well I can’t say much but I changed my spark plugs the other day after just crossing over 140k on my 2012 2.5i 6mt. (Dealer replaced them at 80k when I bought it)

Anyway. I pulled the coils off to find oil around the tube seals and all over the bottom of the plug. I cleaned out the plug tube with a rag cause it was pooling in the tube. Although the top of the used plug was dry, this still doesn’t help me sleep well at night.

That’s being said. Would this oil build up be caused by “blow by” in the cylinder? If so, what can I do about this?

I know most catch cans are meant to turbo charged vehicles due to much more pressure than my NA 2.5.

I am always looking to tinker and learn so please don’t hold back.

Much appreciated in advance.

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Just sitting there waitin after a quick trip.

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I’m running all stock suspension with 15mm adaptors. My tires have not had a problem at 225/50/17. My wheels are only 17x7.5 et 38 with no issues.

I did run these same wheels and tires without an adaptor and still had zero issues. I just like the look of the wider tracked out wheels.

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I got the rear sway bar second hand. Guy had taken off of his wrx after 5k. It was a good deal for $150. Got the braces second hand for $40. Paid full price for endlinks, didn’t skimp on those second hand.

The bar was almost brand new. I have it on the lowest setting. But it made a world of difference. Like I said, I know it’s over kill for a 2.5 6mt, but with just the 25.5mm RCE SB, kartboy endlinks, and the whiteline sway bar support braces, it completely changed the car. I still have all other stock struts, springs, and shocks. Tightened up the car. Awesome simple inexpensive mod

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I installed a 25.5mm adjustable RCE rear sway bar,some beefy kartboy end links, and some whiteline braces a while ago. Obviously the size of the bar made a difference but the change of the sway bar is definitely the best bang for you buck. I gotta good deal from a guy on offer up for the RCE bar and braces. Easy to install everything, took about an hour or so. Probably a little overkill for a NA 2.5i 6mt, but the “tight” feeling the car has now is worth it.

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It’s been a while since I wrote in here. I am looking for some advice on a decent maker of a serpentine belt. If anybody has any quick input. Please let me know. 2012 2.5i 6mt

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Perrin 25mm spacers.

 

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When you first put the 25mm spacers on, did you have an issue with fender rubbing? I had 25mm adaptors on mine and the rears rubbed. I don’t have stock wheels on my 2.5i but they are only 7.5 inches wide.

Either way I changed over to some 15mm always hub-centric adaptors so that it looks flush with the fender.

I also have spungy stock suspension too so if I have anything substantial or somebody in the back seat it will sink a good amount.

Anyway I’m rambling. It’s looks great with the stock wheels when they flush up to the fender. Certainly makes the stance look much better.

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Carwash...

Car looks good man. I Like the accessories and the black and white is alway a classy look.

I have a hood bug deflector for mine that I didn’t get the hardware with when I got it from a guy on Craigslist. Did you install with Subaru hardware or were you able to rig your own mounting hardware? Just askin

Thanks

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I am guess the coating has worn off the outer edge of the rotor. I would have expect to be even worn but it was eventually wear that way. My car already had the rotor on it when I bought my car and they have always appeared to be untreated metal.

Thank you. Either way the braking doesn’t seem to be affected. I apologize for putting that picture where I did. I didn’t think it would pop up as a opening picture. I am not sure how to delete it.

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I might as well create a thread for my car. I overall like the modification direction that the two previous owners, but I am very particular about how I modify my vehicles, so I will be making some changes to my new to me Legacy GT. My style is usually subtle changes, which many would not even notice. I am a low key, don't like to standout type of person, so I kind of like that personality in my vehicles as well.

 

 

 

My car is a 2 owner Southern California car which I bought with 93,782 miles and is rust free. This will delay the undercarriage and body rust issues that are typical of car's driven in the rust belt. While waiting for my car to be delivered, I debated on buy a winter beater to save it from the NE winters, but after a careful inspection of the cars flaws, I decide I will drive this car year round. It has enough scratches, dings, flaws and miles on the odometer, that this isn't the one worth saving. The interior on my is practically mint, I think its even nice than my 2.5i that I bought new (and that is something that I really appreciate) My plan is DD for 5 years and maybe as a 2nd car after that.

 

 

 

My car initially had the following mods

 

 

 

Cobb Accessport V3

 

Tanabe strut tower brace

 

Subaru group n front strut top hats

 

Eibach lowering springs

 

KYB dampers

 

Whiteline rear sway bar 20mm

 

Whiteline front lower control arm bushing

 

Whiteline front caster adjustment bushings

 

Whiteline rear diff cradle bushings

 

Whtieline rear camber adjustment bushings

 

Whiteline rear trailing arm lower front bushings

 

Rear spindle bushing

 

STI Shift Knob

 

Legacy STI STS Accessory

 

Boomba short shift transmission plate

 

Kartboy shifter stop

 

Perin Shifter Bushings

 

Goodridge SS Stainless steel brake lines all

 

Stoptech Street Performance Brake Pads

 

Stoptech Slotted Sport Brake Rotors

 

VMR v701 ET45 18x8.5 5x114.3 wheels with new General GMAX 245/45-18 A/S Tires

 

Phase 2 5x100 to 5x114 15mm spacer adapters

 

Stock wheels (no tires)

 

Phase 2 5x100 15mm spacer adapters

 

Front Aftermarket bumper spoiler lip (unsure of brand)

 

OEM Subaru sunroof deflector

 

OEM Subaru window rain guards

 

OEM Subaru mud guards

 

OEM Subaru trunk liner

 

HID Headlight and Foglights (unsure or brand, fog are yellow which I don't care for)

 

Medium Ceramic Tint

 

 

 

Attached are some of the pre-purchase pictures.

Car looks great man. A long list of things I would love to be doing to mine. It’s a 2.5i but still. Love it either way. I do ha e a question for you. I am running the same stop tech slotted rotor and street pad set up you. After about 6-7k, I noticed a discoloration on the rotors. A darker inner half towards the hat and a lighter normal metal color on the outside of the rotor face. They are not grooves to the touch. Did you have a similar thing happen or am I just gonna have to refinish my rotors and get new pads? Let me know. Anything helps. Sorry if this isn’t supposed to be on you page. I can delete it if so. Here is an attached picture so it’s not a picture on your page. Thank you

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All the chrome wrapped gloss black and the car retinted with 5%.

 

Almost summer wheel weather!

Looks good dude. How did you wrap the chrome around the doors? The the chrome pieces come off or do you tuck the wrap behind? Let me know. Thanks

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So just a heads up to everyone, if you haven't ever replaced your PCV valve it may be a good idea to do it. My rear main seal went out over the weekend and according to my mechanic if your PCV valve fails it can cause pressure to build to up and seals to fail. Unfortunately in my case it chose to come out of the rear main, but who knows maybe it could have been prevented by replacing a $14 PCV valve. (part # 11810AA090)

Is the part number the same for both LGT PCV valves as the N/A 2.5 engines? Please let me know.

Thank you in advance

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I stumbled across a guy selling an RCE 25 mm rear sway bar from his 2015 wrx. I know its a confirmed fit reading multiple posts. But my question is that what end links will be best for that size sway bar?

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Finally installed this yesterday. Another one of my stash of parts finally installed. Gotta say tho, it doesn't seem to make as big of a difference on the GT as it did on the Fozz. In fact it was barely noticeable.

 

 

 

And this damn thing came in today after 3 weeks of waiting for the black kit.

 

GTEASER

Where did you get the rear diff bushing? Who makes it? I was looking at the box but couldn’t read it since the bushing is covering it up. Let me know. Thank in advance

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This may be a stupid question but can a 12 piece silicone hose kit made for a 2010-2012 LGT fit my NA 2.5? I am sure I would have a few pieces left over but just asking cause my hoses right now are getting spongy and need to be replaced

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