Wasted Potential

I like my 5eat in the 05 with torque parameters modified in ECU.

Curious how different that is than the 07+.

Im sure the valve body swap in 05 and 06 5eat end up being slick..

There might be a way to read the actual code in the dashboard, but I fail (05 legacy NA)

 

I went to a local shop , they use the computer to read the abs module code. (simple obd reader can't read the abs code)

 

After I replaced my abs sensor, the erss code gone away right after I start the engine.

 

There was some method of cycling the key on off, on off, etc. and the odometer will display the code apparently.

I tried it for 30 minutes one day, 10 minutes another and just gave up.

My ABS + ErrSS comes on only after heavy snow/very humid, moisture related it seems..

So... if it's rusting and they coat it with some aerosol can rust "inhibitor" after it's already rusting, they have satisfied the recall?

 

If that's all it takes to legally satisfy a known problem... man I'm going to become a prostitute. That's all I got to do to satisfy people? Spray them with rust inhibitor?

There is a giant thread about this from few months ago.

 

I didn't want my brakes to fail while I was driving down a mountain, so I proactively replaced mine for $50ish, here is how.

 

Crap! How'd you bend those so perfectly haha.

The gas tank seams and these brake lines are two of the biggest issues I feel people should make a bigger stink about... they're sometimes more expensive than a new turbo!

Ironically I burn less than a quarter quart at 3k miles, but some piston slap at start for no more than 15 seconds unless cold (maybe 30 when below -5 celsius), but compression was down maybe 10% on one cylinder.

Timing belt, water pump, and tensioner all new within 8k miles. It is worse when cold as well, not sure if that helps indicate piston slap?

Curious how many members would walk away from an LGT that has piston slap for 5 to 15 seconds on start up.

I'd sell my LGT for 9k and it's pretty fresh lol....

I despise electrical and computer stuff. It's difficult for me for some reason. Definetly stands out and is pretty cool!

Unfortunately not looking for coilovers as they won't handle salt well, constand readjustments for seasons, and I won't want to rebuild them after a year or two.

Hoping for iON's or Epic's/Eibach's but that isn't possible unless used.

Would do rallitek springs but they're 440 for a set..

Only want 1 to 1.3 inch drop. H&R seems like only viable option.

Is it just me, or does it seem like Swift springs (advertised at lowering F/R by 1.2/1) look more aggressive than H&R (1.4/1.3)?

People state to use KYB's w/ H&R but not with swifts either..

Does it provide much flex/articulation? Seems it might be too stiff for a lot.

The Tein Basis coilovers reuse the factory top hats and don't have camber plates right?

 

Correct.

I sit here waffling back and forth on whether to spend the money on rims that are heavier than stock, or just coil overs. I feel like I often over mod to the point of boredom (or to the point that I want some equity back out of the vehicle). So, mediocre tires and rims, or just new rubber on factory rims and coilovers... ahhh....

Does anyone know the max adjustments on camber for front and rear on stock suspension?

 

Intent is Tein Basis coil overs set to 1.2 lower on front and 1.0 lower rear, on 18x8.5 et 35 with 235/40/18, rolled front and rear. Just trying to figure out how much extra camber it needs and what parts for extra camber are needed...

I would've figured that increasing the size even marginally would shift the curve to the right and atleast effect low RPM power. Seems from the factory a lot of things (and aftermarket performance) could use simple revisions?

 

Theoretically, if you were to double (or just increase marginally) the volume of the header/x-pipe before the turbo; would this effect total boost or induce overboost somehow?

* Except that dude in Japan that did the OEM calibration. F*ck you dude. Ok not really, it would be fun to pick your brain for a few hours over ramen.

 

I'd do it over Udon noodles, that ramen is like disintegrating cardboard!

 

 

I am no where nearly as knowledged as you folks, especially in the specifics of these ECU's and tables/tuning. I however debated the worthiness of pump/injectors for ~30-40whp for $1400-$1600. I passed due to anticipated complications.

Not banging out a 110%+ IDC ?

Metal recyclers, or BarManBean

Any scrap metal place I believe will pay for them. Just call and ask for what they're valuing them at currently. OE cat gets more than aftermarket BTW

Not easy to find a good condition one at a junkyard, they usually rip them off themselves around here b/c of the cats (meow).

The regs say they are only supposed to do mirrors for <96, but they do all. I'll try harder next year. I hate the process of replacing my downpipe each year.

 

Better than replacing the up-pipe!

Having a 2005, it is good to know that 99.9% of inspectors would not know the wagon had a front up-pipe cat (meow) there anyway.

Another reason I like the STi up-pipe, looks OE!

If an inspector told me they couldn't find it and failed it I would ask him to come out to the car w/ me; open the hood and point down to it and say "did you get your inspectors license from a cereal box?"

Then I'd question him on if it's a bad thing that the cat gets warm from being so close to the engine; I am sure they would offer a water spraying system to keep it cool

By emissions do you mean "sniffer-test" or just a 'OBD test'? Is CA the only test w/ a sniffer portion?

NY just does a visual check for a cat, and as long as no CEL is thrown they do not investigate further.

 

EDIT: I guess it makes it important, is the Invidia catted or not? If it is not catted then I would change my prior opinion... keep it.

I basically gave it to my buddy (so I sort of sold it for labor). I have nowhere to store anything other than a relatives. So if storage was NOT tight I would have kept it.

 

Only thing I have kept so far is the stock CV shafts and am going to re-boot them and possibly sell or keep as these aftermarket ones have very little vibration compared to most.

Has anyone by chance found dogleg panels?

 

All I have found are full quarter panels, for example, here is Left hand side side... 51490ag11a9p

Heuberger has the best price at sub $480.