laramieskibum

Welcome.

 

How is your oil usage? Are you loosing oil between oil changes.

Clean the Maf sensor

 

Reset the ecu, Do an idle relearn immediately after that

 

If you don’t have a access port or tantrix cable hook it up to a equivalent machine or iPhone app and see what idle AFR is. Could be an intake manifold gasket. Or throttle body needs cleaned.

 

Only you and he can tell us the source of the smoke. Could be anything. Cv joint grease, exhaust leak….sounds like you have an exhaust and or boost leak. Probably manifold to up pipe. Boost leak could be intercooler hose to throttle body or hose under intercooler blown off or intercooler fins bent on the sides allow boost leak. If you got smoke rolling you should be able to get under it and find out why, oil leak somewhere…or grease. On exhaust. Heads on these leak. Have you looked for an oil leak? If your smoking the clutch so bad your getting smoke that is impressive, or your rear main oil seal is leaking onto the clutch.

 

How much oil are you using? What color is your exhaust if any?

 

Check turbo shaft for play before replacing

 

Turbo wouldn’t take a timing belt. How many miles on the tensioner? Was it ever replaced with the timing belt previously? Your add for the car showed something like 30,000 miles past due and 5 years over due for a belt / tensioner / water pump. This is an interference engine. If your timing belt went you probably bent a valve, probably exhaust, yet you say it passed compression test?! Very lucky if true. Your belt must not have failed completely. Take the timing belt cover off and check to see if it is in time.

How’s the acceleration compare to a 05? How much does the CVT bother you?

Seems loud. When’s the last time you changed plugs? I had a loud tick. Plug was loose...now after plugs and a few new coils she’s purrs

ya, I pop in every now & again. Just to see if someone as beaten my mileage on original motor & turbo (314k+)

 

I miss my LGT, when I see others on the road.

Then I nail the throttle on the 4.4l twin turbo v8:).

 

Ah hah! Very nice. I aim to break your record. By my count I am in second place - OG block and turbo, and banjo bolt filters, working on 267,000.

Here's a picture of both.

 

disconnect at the mid pipe, not in the middle of the stock downpipe.

 

[ATTACH]279482[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]279483[/ATTACH]

 

Yes. This.

Pull the whole downpipe from the turbo to the donut/catback. Sensor and all. Way easier.

 

This. Way easier and the bolts don’t tend to get as bad there.

I keep wondering why I throw money at car with 130K miles?

 

Parts has nothing on depreciation and a loan....just stings more because it’s all at once...

Change the seal while your there. They are handed there is a left and right if I recall. Beware of that. Small amounts of fluid will come out. Just refill after your done.

My 2005 GT taught me to never buy year 1 of any car...

 

1. Turbo Dead at 80k miles
   
2. Radiator Fan Relay bug burned up the ECU TWICE (luckily recall replaced the ecu for free both times)
   
3. Banjo filters which were fully clogged and killed turbo and shorted AVCS valve's lives
   
4. Absurd 7k Dino oil change recommendations, which is probably why turbo went (by year 3 they switched it to to 3.7k on synthetic)
   
5. Pre-Turbo Cats that get clogged (though it did take Subaru to year 3 to ditch them)
   
6. All wheel bearings replaced (Not a year one problem, my 2012 is chewing wheel bearing #2 already)
   

 

My 2006 also has had nearl all of those issues, so your not safe at 2 years either. Exception was the banjo bolts. OG turbo and bolts with screens on mine at 276,000 - I have never went more than 4K on oil changes. But when my ECU burned up at 220,000 miles Subaru paid for it, without me even asking.

 

Don’t regret it one bit but keep eyeing those Kia stingers...wish they had a bit more ground clearance.

 

Would love another XT but the CVT and DIT gives me serious pause and I wonder what the aftermarket is going to do here...that gives me more pause than a first year Subaru

276,000 miles. Invidia catted downpipe, new turbo inlet hose. Invidia uppipe flange came to me bent/warped and leaked despite multiple attempts. Fighting with them on a return. Leaked since first start even with 2x thick and double gasketing. Clearly a mfg issue. Steer clear of them. Grimspeed uppipe goes on Monday.

 

Spark plug and valve cover gaskets are weeping.

 

Opensource tuning it with MickeyD map, so far getting a lot of detected knock up high at 5500-6200rpm and 1.7-1.9 g.

 

Will see how long the old girl holds up. Thinking it’s time for a compression and leak down test....lol.

 

Still on OG turbo and OG banjo filter. Shaft play. Maybe rebuild DIY with new CHMR or go vf52....

 

4th gear syncro grinding. Reading that could be an issue with lubrication, so will try draining and refilling with new fluid.

 

Old girl will not die...

Get BtSsm instead. Great app made by one forum member.

 

Awesome program! I do not have a droid device yet but might just for the car now. Thanks! Looks like openport is still best way to go since he disconinuted selling his own hardware. Time to pony up.

Well that was in 2010. Now I’m at 271,000 miles, original turbo, banjo bolts checked but left in place. Complete stock and original except consumables and rear sway bar.. On second clutch, first one was fine at 170,000 but plastic throw out bearing failed. Have replaced two axles total due to boot failures. Subaru replaced my ECU for free at 200k due to recall. Same with airbags.

 

Still daily drive her. Lost a coil pack or two, blew tip off a spark plug once, replaced alternator and O2 sensor. Uses 1 quart between oil changes now. Probably have a slight head gasket leak, add coolant every 6-8 months, have always used the magic subaru coolant and additives...car is now rusting at rock chips badly, but it’s never been waxed..not event once.

 

Still purrs like a kitten and pulls decent.

 

Spoke a bit too soon. Major loss of power on hottest day of the year at 85mph. 274,000 miles. No CEL. Limped home, found intercooler/TB connection obviously weeping, turbo inlet weeping, and intercooler cracked at the inlet...channel locked and hammered the intercooler back together, $20 of JB weld, than removed the sleeves on the intercooler outlet hose. Removed, cleaned and reinstalled turbo inlet. Inlet is super soft at the turbo connection, maybe I should replace it. Checked turbo, has axial play but is not contacting yet, no sign of seal leak. added a new ground wire from passenger side of block to frame, since OG one was obliterated 150k ago...

 

Drivers CV boot went again...so that’s on the list now.

 

Back up and running fine, idles much better and pulls ok. Max boost is only 8psi. Arg.

 

Checked wastgate, it’s not shifted.

 

Pulled hose on waste gate, hit 15-17psi no problem.

 

AFR seems fine, not lean unless I hammer it.

 

Timing is +25-40 never drops below 10....tested boost solenoid, it’s fine and clear.

 

Changed the PCV valve while I was in there.

 

Made a boost leak tester but damn what a pain sealing up the inlet is.

 

I’m using Bluetooth adapter and iPhone, seems I need to just buck up and get learning view via OpenPort cable to diagnose this one. I just want 4 more psi, I’m at 6400’. Wonder how I can tell if I’m knocking with my Bluetooth adapter and iPhone. Uppipe shield is rattling, wonder if computer is sensing it as knock.

2006 OBXT 5MT 127,000 miles, DD car with 85 miles per day. 80 of those at 83mph and 3400 rpm.

 

Very little city miles on this car, brakes were original with plenty of meat at 120k. Replaced pads/rotors due to shimmy from pad material, lots of mountain passes.

 

Clutch holds good still at 127k. 4 x 0-80mph pulls every day plus stop lights in between.

2 wheel bearings at <10k miles (part of the bad batch)

passenger side door latch broke (120k miles)

engine under cover is completely warped from exhaust heat / 18wheel ice chunks at 80mph

2 sets of spark plugs, time belt, water pump/idlers, drive belts

Adjusted the parking brake cable tension at 120k

Replaced coolant 2x time, no sign of issues in the fluid

Infamous passenger front CV boot at 115k, replaced the whole axle

Weird radio issue/fan relay issues (still not resolved, no dealer close to me to replace ECU per recall)

Replaced OEM battery, seemed to be struggling during the winter

Replaced all fluids per schedual, except oil at 6k once a year or so...usually 3k per oil change.

Lots of stone chips on the car, rust on the body above the windshield, but that's my fault for not getting it taken care of. Entire under body is in good shape, it's seen lots of Utah salt.

 

Very satisfied with the reliability so far. No mods, still pulls like day one and doesn't sip any oil. Checked banjo bolt at 70k, clean except for 1 large spec. That large spec convienced me to leave the filters in -- obviously the oil filter did not catch it.

 

I should note that this car has never had a block heater. Atleast 15-20 times per year it is started in sub 0F temperatures, and I can hear the turbo is not getting oil (whiiiiiinnnneeeee....then silence)....installing one before next winter, got a deal online I couldnt pass up, probably to little to late. Mobil 1 every 3k miles except for a few 6k stints -- FTW!

 

Well that was in 2010. Now I’m at 271,000 miles, original turbo, banjo bolts checked but left in place. Complete stock and original except consumables and rear sway bar.. On second clutch, first one was fine at 170,000 but plastic throw out bearing failed. Have replaced two axles total due to boot failures. Subaru replaced my ECU for free at 200k due to recall. Same with airbags.

 

Still daily drive her. Lost a coil pack or two, blew tip off a spark plug once, replaced alternator and O2 sensor. Uses 1 quart between oil changes now. Probably have a slight head gasket leak, add coolant every 6-8 months, have always used the magic subaru coolant and additives...car is now rusting at rock chips badly, but it’s never been waxed..not event once.

 

Still purrs like a kitten and pulls decent.

I just did my plugs and putting the car up on ramps helped strictly because of the increase in height. I don't see how being under the car helped you on the drivers side. The support directly underneath those plugs looks like it would have blocked most of the access. Kudos if it worked for you though.

 

A big plus to the guy that said to remove the wire clips from the coil packs and rotate them 180 degrees to get the rears out. Helped me a lot!

 

P.S. It took me 2.5 hours and I had never done it before.

 

Possible lgt vs obxt difference. Working from underneith means i can see where my figers/plugs/coils are. My big hands fit better, no issues with any blocked access. No guessing about how to turn the coils back into the hole...no bloody knuckles.

Np...sorry for the txt nature of the posts, new iPad....!

 

Now that I know I don't have to beat myself up with the back two plugs, I'm going to change them every 30k...no excuses. Accessing the pass side plugs is still helpful w shield off , but taking the air box out is so fast it's a no brainer to to them from above. Having the exhaust not in the way of the drivers side plugs, means you can get them both easy from below.

 

And I have big hands.

Put the car up on drive-on blocks, did the drivers side just as fat as the pass side, did not remove battery, did it all from underneith. Highly recommend doing drivers side from under side , pass from above. Took 1 hr.

 

Plugs were in bad (worn but no signs of engine isues) shape, 40k on them.

 

Rear set of coils are starting to rust, both of them. Coils are actually spreading apart due to the corrosion. Anyone else having that issue yet? 123k on the car, but bottom engine cover, "skidplate", has had a missing cover since 40k...Look just like this one:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bad-coil-pack-looks-like-67194.html

Just use a pair of vise grips to hold the top cam to the bottom cam. Worked fine for me last week.

Doing mine again morrow. FYI, if u remove the engine splash shield you can easily reach the drivers side plugs...going to try that instead. Noticed while changing the timing belt .

got your PM thanks.

 

Good to hear your car is cool. i had the head shield go just a few months ago above the drive shaft. making a racket....

 

purchased a new axle from subaru today out of desperation (ouch). Will put it in tommorow.

 

Those of you who have replaced the output seal on the transmission, where does the big O ring go (not the seal, but the O ring)? Does that involve taking the weird looking nut off the side of the transmission? Don't think I want to get into that, because that sets your pinion depth right (think I read that somewhere on here...).

duh....my bad

 

got the computer sound off, wife is sleeping...good luck with it man.

 

My sister is moving to boulder in the next month or so (grad school for chem).

Mine is still up on jackstands, haven't been able to locate an axle. Actually broke down and was oging to buy a new OEM one, but they closed at 12:30 yesterday (didnt' know till I showed up at the dealer). Wtf happened to your diff? Did the retaining clip fall off in the tranny or did the hammering off of the axle damage clearances?!

What not to do...

 

 

 

oh...damn...loose nut = trashed diff?

well. Checker, autozone, and carquest do not carry the Baja turbo M/T half shafts nor show a different part number for the LGT/XT axle. Dealer in SLC (160mi, closest to me), said that subaru has not started a remanufactured program for cars older than 2004.

 

Guess I punt and try and find one that works off ebay, unless someone here knows some secret part number for carquest, autozone, checker...

 

or, maybe all the parts catalogs are telling the truth and the part is the same for all legacy/outbacks 2005-2007......and i just happened to get the wrong one from carquest by their mistake.

chalk up autozone.com to that list