Justen1987

How much oil does your air/oil separator catch? My T isn't broke yet but it has some large cracks around the ends of it so I know its on its way out. Can you believe the my dealer told me that part wasn't available? lol. I'll make my own with a brass barb and hose from lowes if I have to. you interested in parting with you spare stew? They only charged me like $30 for it or something like that. If I had the part number I could just order from an online Subaru parts dealer. That's what I've always done in the past with no issue

I finally bit the bullet and made my appointment for my LGT recalls. Turns out I have three of them pending... Air bag, parking brake actuator and windshield wiper motor cover.

 

My car is so far from normal at this point that I will have to chat with the mechanic to tell him all the funky stuff going on.

 

I really hate to put the mechanics of my car into someone else's hands!!

I'm wondering if I should load my break in tune, so they can't take it for a joy ride...?

 

On another note, I think I have one more log to send before starting corn!! I will hopefully be smelling the sweet (?) smell of corn in the morning.

 

I would talk to your tuner before putting the "break in" map back in if you are seriously worried about some kid joy riding your car. He should be able to take your current tune and limit the torque request and rpm as a valet tune. shouldn't be a big deal since its almost dialed in at this point. I haven't gotten any of the same recalls done to mine yet, my local Subaru dealer is seriously the worst. I've ordered parts before, paid up front, they refund my money without contacting me. Then when I call they tell me they cant get the part?! I know its BS. Btw, anyone got the part number for the T to the PCV?

have you removed and inpected the bulbs? if not, while your there you can set your volt meter on dc volts, turn your high beams on and you should measure source voltage across the plug.

ohh, ive got the limited with the leather everywhere and the nav and what not. I just assumed all gt's got the leather wrapped steering wheel but obviously im wrong lol. I live near the mi/in border so I see lots of salt and I didn't have much issue reusing my links when I installed a 22mm whiteline rsb. that being said its probably smart to have some replacements ready, if you don't use them you could just return them. if you got a good pair of needle nose vise grips and an impact you'll probably be fine though

installed hks super power flow kit with kts suction pipe. haven't done a data log yet but I love the louder whooshy noises. probably 3x louder than my GFB bpv wide open

Can you cut the factory wrap off the steering wheel to use as a template to trim your new wrap to fit like factory?

if the cam timing is off the engine wont produce the correct vacuum. remember an engine is just an air pump. id check vacuum and compare to known good. that's how I used to find jumped timing on older cars that didn't monitor all cams

 

Installed sti rear stay kit kinda. Wasn’t direct fit bolt on like I was hoping but I made it work. Probably won’t make a difference but I wanted some Jdm sti bits cause I’m a nerd I guess and they were only $48 shipped. Also installed sub frame brace from newer model and led license plate bulbs

 

 

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I don't see that car being totaled. Aftermarket parts for these cars are pretty cheap. The guy that owns the garage I work at owns a body shop too, and the guy I work with got an 11 legacy base model(I think cause he liked mine, lol) Anyways he priced out a hood with a scoop and it was only $120 through the body shops parts supplier. If the bags didn't blow you should be in good shape

I think youre talking about the large amount of carbon build up? its not oil, well some might be, but that cylinder has been trying to compress fuel with no compression for a while. that misfire didn't start yesterday im sure

I think the bottom end looks fine. the pistons look different because of the misfire, unburnt fuel cleaning the one. your exhaust valves are for sure junk and the source of your misfire. my theory for the valve failure on these engines is normal wear causing the lash to get too tight and the valve doesn't seat properly to transfer the heat. so if your just trying to get by maching only one head, make sure you check the lash on the other bank

are you using factory bushings? anything firmer might require some sort of lube. my whiteline swaybar kit came with some. idk what swaybar youre using. where did you get the koni's from?

 

 

Not sure what all lights aren’t working for you. Maybe these diagrams can help

 

 

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There is nothing wrong with using the factory AFR sensor as a good reference, it is what the computer is going to see when you aren't tuning. As I recall a couple of tuners pointed out the sensor's accuracy in some posts in this forum. Accesstuner limits the readings from the factory but I believe that can be adjust down to 10.xx from the 11.14 it pegs at now.

 

I'm trying to figure out if I can use a wideband in place of the factory upstream. In theory I should but its a learn as I go thing. In the accesstuner softerware I can change front upstream current to afr calibration. The sensor has a volt to afr chart provided in the online manual. So assuming its using a 5v ref I should be able to use that chart and ohm's law to calculate the amperage and be able to use the wideband for both closed and open loop operation and not for just tuning purposes. Then I can log data just like I am now and the car will have a more accurate sensor for all operations. I was just curious if that's what dave is doing, I had no idea he would tune your car with logs and video recordings. He's a pro though, im not.

is the combustion chamber on a 2.5 the same as the jdm heads? I have done zero research on that but I would assume they're larger to keep compression down with the higher displacement. So if I understand you correctly your basically just swapping short blocks?

I would fix what you have so you know what you got vs rolling the dice on a pretty expensive engine. I had exhaust valves fail on mine with 134k on it, if that helps at all

fair enough lol. are you going to use the factory bottom mount turbo or the turbo your jdm unit came with? you engine come with pcm and harness?

did the sensor just plug into the factory harness or did you have to add some wiring? did the sensor come with current(ma) to AFR calibration info? Ive been tuning my car myself and im learning as I go. I know im too rich by the soot on my bumper but i'd like to get a wide band before I start leaning out. thanks for sharing

interested. I sent pm but didn't hear back zip is 46554

your tuner should have disabled that code. id just ask him to send you a new map

possibly warped head and valves wont seal. I would suggest doing a cylinder leakage test. From my experience misfire at idle/low load is usually a compression issue. I've seen a couple cars overheat so bad that the valve seats actually fell out of the head. but since your misfire goes away at higher rpm I doubt that's the case for you and a resurface and valve job should cure your problem if what im thinking is true

Valves were burned up. Pretty much destroyed. I'll take a picture and post it.

 

If its bad valves why are you messing with the bottom end?

did he keep your target boost the same? 23 if I remember right?

So overboost is caused when there isn’t enough flow through the waste gate. I experienced that on my car with muffler deletes and a invidia catted j pipe when temps dropped below 40 degrees. Honestly if I could have a do over I probably wouldn’t use the invidia pipe cause it’s just a round pipe inlet which hurts flow through the waste gate. If you compare it to hks or avo designed hi flow cats you can see what I’m talking about.

I ended up using the AEM X-Series 30-0300 AFR sensor.

When it gets colder and I have more time I will update this thread with a build sheet on the first page and list the pics of all the crazy shit I found from the guy who worked on the car before me. It was some crazy stupid stuff.

 

You parked your car for the winter huh? Ive been looking forward to the wideband install write up. did you add a bung or just used oe up stream bung?