B1G_xyz

I actually did! The dust shield actually did have a lot of rust, so I took everything apart and used a wire brush to clean the inside of the rotor. Probably should've mentioned that along with all 4 brakes having new rotors and pads as well. Was really hoping that was the cause lol

6 hours ago, m sprank said:

If the bearing wobbles it has been bad for some time. That is not a test. If you can hear it, it is failing. 

If it is a rotational noise isolated to a specific corner a bearing would be first suspect.  There are tools to help troubleshoot, but none to "test" a bearing.  In my experience OEM are best.

I understand that, but before I go and replace it what tools are there to troubleshoot further? I'd hate to replace a good bearing if that's not the issue.

2 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

I doubt 2 year old timkens have gone bad, so probably not.

It was more that the bearings in these cars aren’t awesome, particularly if you have a wagon and like to haul stuff.

If you’ve got enough play in your wheel you can feel it with the ‘wheel shake’ test, and the cause is a bearing, it’s waaaaaay past due to replace and probably shouldn’t have been on the road.

The amount of damage/out of spec for sealed roller bearings in a wheel would be like… thousandths of an inch. You might feel it as a roughness in the bearing or a grinding noise if it’s compromised. A wheel that moves around because of a bad bearing would be no bueno.

Ok I'll keep that in mind, thanks

10 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Not taking a stab at you here, but how did you ‘check’ the bearing?

I ask honestly because I’ve had humming in my bearings, and even tho they had no play I could find/see, and using my stethoscope they didn’t really make any grinding or terrible noise, replacing them stopped the humming. + the old units coming out were not as smooth turning as the new ones. Guess it doesn’t take much damage to the tolerances in a wheel bearing to start making noise. They’re a known bad part of these cars…

Hard to say from the video audio quality, but it doesn’t sound like the diff anyhow…

I did the old test of lifting the car up and shaking side to side and up and down for play, but it's solid. I swapped all 4 bearing about 2 years ago with timkens also. But from what you're saying it can still be the bearings?

Im hearing a humming noise that gets faster/louder as I accelerate. Not sure if you can hear it on the video, but I've checked the wheel bearing, tire and wheel are good, and also checked my brakes. It sounds like it's coming from the driver side rear. Any tips would be appreciated.

Interesting result. I'm curious which part exactly is too short as I would like to compare mine as well. If you would, could you possibly let me know which part exactly the the shop was talking about if you find out? And the measurement if possible??

Okay so after emailing FA, they sent out new shock body's (the threaded body) and I went back to the same shop so they can install it. They actually told me that they were installed incorrectly and that they were being compressed, similar to what you said. I did not know there was an incorrect way to install them, but now it's like driving on clouds. It's crazy because I almost think that they are more comfortable than stock shocks but with the benefit of being lowered, lighter, and adjustable. The tech also told me that the front was probably installed incorrectly and he said it was kinda rough, but I really can't tell.

 

What I recommend is going to a local FA installer and seeing what your options are.

 

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Interesting result. I'm curious which part exactly is too short as I would like to compare mine as well. If you would, could you possibly let me know which part exactly the the shop was talking about if you find out? And the measurement if possible??

Yea I'll definitely let you know what happens next, currently emailing FA and the shop to know what the next steps are.

 

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Did you remove the coilover before adjusting the preload or adjust it still installed?

 

 

 

It sounds like your suspension is pre-compressing the shock. You could verify this by taking a measurement of the total shock body length while it is installed with the wheels off the ground. Then remove the lower shock mount and measure again and if it is longer after removal that likely means the suspension is compressing the entire shock.

 

 

 

Also I should give an FYI, I am by no means a suspension expert, this is just similar sounding to my issues and this is as far as I've gotten with it.

I actually took it to a authorized FA installation shop, and they told me that the shocks are defective, the shock *rod?* Is shorter than normal; I think he said it's like 2in rather than a normal 3ish in, so it's bottoming out. He also told me the lower bolt mount is loose when it should be tight. So I emailed FA and we're going to see if they can send a replacement. He also adjusted them and while they're still bouncy, it's alot more tolerable now. I believe he added alot more preload for now

 

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So I adjusted the springs again yesterday, but here's the weird part. The springs were preloaded pretty high, I didn't take a measurement on how how it was but it was much more that the ⅛ preload I previously set when FA told me to. I reset them to ⅛ compression, and that allowed the springs to rotate, but today's drive felt very similar; bouncy on small road imperfections like a pogo stick, and a hard launch on bigger bumps

 

I have the 7th gen FA, with the Allen screw to lock the spring, the only thing I could think of is that the screw wasn't tight enough and the spring rotated, but wouldn't it drop to a lower preload not a higher?

I have FA 500s and have dealt with a similar problem. When you have the rear of the car in the air with the wheels off you should be able grab the springs and twist them back and forth. If you can't move them then there is too much preload.

 

Make sure before you install the rears that you set the height to match where the lower mounting point on the hub is or lower (as in ride height of the car). Then make any further height adjustments after the coilovers are installed.

 

Has the car been previously lowered or was it on stock suspension before? My rear suspension was slammed by the previous owner so when I installed my FAs and tried to raise the rear the hub wanted to sit upwards towards the car. So the hub compresses the shock the more I raise it and I lose shock travel which ruins the ride.

 

Yea I believe I can't twist the springs atm, I'll jack it up when I get the chance to make sure.

 

As for making sure the hubs are lower, yea I have them at stock ride hight atm.

 

The car was never lowered to my knowledge previously

I bought the fortune auto 500s for my sedan in about March and got them around September, but I feel like something is wrong since I got them. At first I installed all 4 with ¼" of preload (8k front, 6k rear on Swift springs), but had very hard launch feeling going over bumps on the highway. I contacted FA and they told me the rears preload is supposed to be ⅛" of preload so I set those the next day, but I still feel the launch of my chair feeling. Currently I have the front damping set at 3 and rear set a 6 as I live in NJ with farly bad roads. Does anyone else experience this with their fortune auto?

 

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Ok thanks I'll do some shopping now. I remember my 3rd gen was around $250 back a couple years, hopefully it isn't much more

 

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Unfortunately got a crack on my windshield from a kicked up rock driving on the highway. It's about 11 inches long, so I definitely need a windshield replacement...the only thing that's concerning me is the heated windshield wipers. Do our cars use a special windshield or is it just a heating element below the windshield (any aftermarket windshield will work)

 

I called my insurance and they told me I'd have to pay the $500 deductible to go with them, so that's out of the question

 

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Yep, I normally check them once a week with the winter weather causing low pressure

 

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Yes I do. Also just realized the bozos at Pep boys but 50psi in each tire. I wonder if that contributed to my rubbing.

Looks like you're rubbing on the exact part of the fender that would be rolled back. You'll likely find that you're fine afterwards. Are you rubbing on all four? Adding in a degree of camber would help with rubbing.

Yep all four but more severely in the fronts...just ordered a eastwood fender roller and I'm tackling this on Sunday

 

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This is how much I'm rubbing btw

 

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Fender rolling should cover that on stock suspension. I'll be putting that on my car with H&R lowering springs (those exact specs actually) and it supposedly shouldn't rub with rolled fenders.

Awesome, thanks going to look for some place to roll them now!

 

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Hey guys just got new tires, michelin pilot sport all season 4, squared on enkei 18x8 +45. They are rubbing when I hit bumps and I wanted to know what is recommended; camber? Coilovers? Fender rolling? Thanks

 

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I've had the same worries and recently got the Prosport JDM series gauges. I have the boost and oil pressure ATM but don't have the gauge pods to mount them up yet. Hopefully I didn't waste money on these.

 

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He's just been really busy lately. If you don't hear back from him for a few days, just send him a follow up email!

Cool, thanks! Isn't really a rush, takes a while to get shipments from Japan anyway. Good to know he still makes them [emoji106]

 

Edit: David just got back to me, and I ordered the necessary wires, he even helped out with additional functions and guided me on what exactly I needed! Big thumbs up to him!

Thank you. I ended up going with the scosche harness and you are right it does come with 14pins. I emailed David @ae64, do you know how long it takes to get a response back from him?

 

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Did you ever get a hold of David? I just ordered the jdm double din from avojdm, and my double din radio and wasn't sure if he's still making the wire harnesses... hopefully I get an email back from him.

 

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I've never done it myself, is the plastic retainer piece yellow like in the video below?

 

 

 

 

Then at around 6:08 it looks like another rod is disconnected, with a green piece.

That's exactly what I needed, thanks!

Reviving a old thread here I know but I've tried and failed at getting the lock actuator off. I followed the write-up but it's missing the info I need. The bar that connects the outside handle lock to the latch; I have no idea how to get it off. I've tried twisting, pulling, and pushing with no success so I just put everything back together. Sucks that my motor gave out on the driver side out of all places.

i think that may be a finger....

Haha yeah my index finger at a weird angle.but thanks I found the noise to be a leak on the intercooler not that hose

 

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