Blue Fox

I am needing the factory roof rails if you still have the shell (rails that go the length of the roof, not the crossbars)

Also interested in the front strut bar. 

THESE HAVE SOLD

I have a full set of Racecomp Engineering Tarmac 1 coilovers for 05-09 Legacy along with the forged front lowering camber plates. In my opinion, these were transformative. They ride better than stock Bilstein dampers from a Spec B, and have the ability to really firm up for spirited driving. I’ve had these in autocross sessions, as well as multi-thousand mile road trips and they are fantastic. They’re made for Racecomp by KW, and show no signs of wear as I’ve kept them in great shape.

Milage: 
15,000 miles, mostly highway and road trips. Some autocross events, but no pot hole hits. They are in excellent condition.

Reason for selling:
My Outback has been transformed into a full race build Gridlife Touring Cup car, so a custom set of road-racing coilovers to meet my racing needs has been ordered.

Price:  $1500 Shipped to lower 48, less if picked up (Durango, Coloardo)
Original purchase price for these was $2489 shipped. 

These come assembled and ready to bolt on, and with coil-over jackets.

I will be uploading some more pictures of the coilovers as soon as I can. Pictures of the car shows the height they are currently set to. If interested, let me know, feel free to ask questions.
 

I managed to get the last set of MB3747-B-02 from amazon.com. Had them shipped to WA and brought them across the border. Needless to say, they fit!

 

There's a set on eBay that doesn't have the strip to cover the holes in the underside of the crossbars that I was considering. Very glad I didn't. I didn't put the strips in, just to test, and they whistle so loud once you hit 70km/h.

Congrats on finding them! And yes, without the strips in the bars to fill in the adjustment slots on the underside, they do like to whistle. You can also cover these with tape if you ever lose the strips themselves.

Hello, forgive me if it’s already common knowledge, but my search hasn’t come up with anything.

I have recently swapped my 5-speed Outback XT from its stock 4.44 transmission and rear diff to a low-mileage Legacy GT 4.11. Main reason is that I wanted to run smaller diameter tires since the car is lowered and I’m getting rubbing issues, and the 4.44 transmission has recently blown up.

My plan was to swap over the 4.11 and run a LGT size tire so I can not only run a smaller tire, but also have the speedometer show correctly, but it isn’t. It’s off by about the same as the 4.44 was with the smaller tire, leading me to believe there is a box or control unit that needs to also be swapped from an LGT.

I believe this may be something to due with a BCM? that needs to be swapped over from a Legacy GT? Is this the right track of thinking for anyone who may know?

I think I've done research for hundreds of hours over the course of more than a year on this forum to just be able to put a damn kayak (preferably two) on the roof of my car, which is a 2007 Legacy Wagon 2.5i Ltd with rails that I guess are called flush. See photo. Looking at the car from the side, there is no space between the rail and the car, but on the inner side, there is a groove that runs along the length of the rail.

 

I've been on ebay, facebook marketplace, yakima's website, thule, and even Montblanc's site that made me choose between "4dr Saloon" or "5 dr Estate" as my "model" of my 2007 Legacy wagon. ??? Yes, I was on the English language site.

 

Could someone please have mercy on this poor mother who just wants to take her kid kayaking without decapitating the people driving behind my wagon on the NJ turnpike? By providing workable links to the things I actually need to buy that I can take to a body shop and say "here, put this on". I have aleady tried to find local help but nobody feels like looking into what is required to get a rack, and I called the local Subaru dealership parts department, where they asked me what kind of car I had and then laughed heartily before saying "can't help ya".

 

Prefer something easy and affordable. I am assuming Montblanc is best in that regard, but damned if I can find what I have to do in order to accomplish this.

 

Thank you!

The information you are asking for is literally contained about 4 posts up from this one. An Estate is a wagon, you need the crossbars for the wagon, which would be the Mont Blanc MB3747-B-02 Black 47" Gripper Load Bar Set. I regularly carry kayaks on mine.

Wheel size and offset? Tire dimension? Rails look good.

Wheels are Konig 17x7.5. 48 offset, and run 15mm H&R wheel spacers with extended studs. Tires are Hankook iCept 215/60 R17 winters. They're decent (especially for the price I got them for, $51/each), but they’re no Blizzaks. Once these wear out, I’ll be going back to Blizzaks or Hakkkappppelllllllllliitaaaas.

Woah, looks so good with the legacy rails and grill. Is that a bayson R lip?

Thanks! Finding the crossbars for the Legacy rails was a pain, but found them eventually from the Original manufacturer. The lip is some cheap one off eBay, an S204 replica I believe.

The grille was a bit more involved. The middle wing section is from a Legacy grille that I then chopped up, and also chopped up my original Outback grille to make it. Lots of epoxy, cutting, sanding and filler, but think it came out nice.

not going to argue whats the right or wrong way. if it were me and i was going to LGT height or below, id do a proper full swap.

I'm not meaning to argue with anyone either, I just have strong opinions on the matter since I spent months chasing issues that the Legacy swap solved. Just trying to save people some headaches that I went through.

But yes, if anyone is looking to lowering their Outback to stock Legacy height or lower, I would say the Legacy conversion is a 100% must to get the best ride and handling out of it.

That makes sense that doing it the "right way" gave you a performance improvement in high performance driving / autocross situations. Did you notice a difference at the track or only in autocross?

I noticed the improvement for everyday driving almost immediately. Car just felt "right" if that makes sense. Planted, no weird feelings in the suspension, no weird loading/unloading of the steering feel while going through a corner, nothing. Just felt like I expected it to, like a Spec B that a couple of my friends have. Which I was I was trying to emulate with mine. I live in a mountainous area, so curvy roads and spirited driving is a daily thing for me.

I never had it on the track lowered with just the struts and springs since I never liked how it handled. Had it to a track once after the Legacy conversion and it handled like my friends' Spec B, though with a little more oversteer, which I preferred.

Autocross, I took it to about 3 events (6 total race days) prior to Legacy conversion and absolutely hated how it handled when really pushing it. A few people there said it was an "uncompetitive car" and I was wasting my time with it. Another person said my problems were "classic Subaru". Once I did research, changed out all the bits to Legacy counterparts, it was like a light switch. I started shaving seconds off my times, and now in my 4th year of autocross, I'm usually winning Street Touring class (was STX, now STH with the new class rules) and currently have 18 first place event finishes. Often they get on the intercom systems between run groups to tell everyone that they're being beat by a station wagon in PAX time.

You don't actually. Many many many have not done this and been beyond fine for basically ever.

 

That's the way to "turn your outback into a legacy for real." But it will get you basically nothing as a benefit.

You can't say "you will get basically nothing as a benefit" to someone who has lowered their Outback using both methods. There is a benefit. A big one. I first lowered mine with just struts and springs and chased so many problems with bump steer and roll center issues. The car didn't handle awful, but didn't handle correctly either. Dozens of alignments and adjustments didn't help, and participating in autocross events only magnified the handling deficiencies. I did a ton of research on this very site, and changed all the necessary components to their Legacy counterparts. The issues I was chasing all but disappeared, and fine tuning it further was a breeze. An Outback is just a lifted Legacy. Lowering an Outback without removing part of the "lift" is just a half-ass way of doing it in my opinion.

After researching for ages, I finally decided to lower my OB. I bought a set of StrutTek quick struts, and I've replaced the bump stops. Still waiting on legacy UCAs, but so far everything seems to clear.

 

Wheels are OZ Superleggera 17x8 +35, on a 225/55. I had to roll the rear fenders a bit, but the fronts clear.

You also need to remove the rear subframe spacers, front subframe spacers, and replaced the transmission cradle, steering u-joint, driveshaft, front control arm brackets, rear trailing arm brackets (and associated bolts) with the Legacy counterparts. This way you will have proper suspension geometry as if the car is a Legacy.

Yea, it's too meaty!!! The car just gets hungry and eats the tires up Plus, I'm a woodworker and load the car at least once a month with wood and power machines (including chop saw, band saw, cast iron table saw, etc)

 

Need to step down to a smaller profile tire, but I would like to keep the factory OB diameter.

 

I have 245/45 on 18x8.75", which is the same as factory diameter. I think I'll get a 225/50 next time, which makes me sad to give up some width. Will this help the tire slope inwards and help with my car's hunger for tires, or would it not effect that much?

 

I've already done some heavy cutting and rolling of the fenders. I would like to take it to an alignment shop but I damn covid-19 closed all the shops and left my out of a job. I guess I'll just dial in more camber for now.

Try to add some negative camber. Not only will your car handle a lot better, it’ll keep your shoulders from rubbing. Since I Autocross mine, I run fairly aggressive negative camber at -2.8 front, -2.3 rear. No rubbing issues, even with 245 tires. I don’t think you would need to go that drastic, but a little would be beneficial. These cars love negative camber. I’ve put 40k on my normal daily tires with this alignment and I have zero abnormal wear.

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback. I will be trying the O'reilly axles to get me by for now and rebuild my OEs later to have as spares. I'll report back on if the axles work out.

Good luck. Hopefully you don’t have the acceleration vibration/wobble like every other aftermarket CV I’ve tried in the past.

She's all cleaned up from the epic winter we've had. Still got to get the Blizzaks swapped out. But some work was done to it recently.

Currently sitting on:

- Koni Yellow's all around

- Rallitek Springs

- Whiteline Comp-C Tophats

- 1" rear spacer, 1/4" front spacer

- Negative 2.5 Front Camber

- Negative 2.0 Rear Camber

- Timing Belt Service Done

- New OEM WRX Flywheel & Clutch

I really like your wrap. How hard was it to install?

Fairly easy stuff to work with. It’s a little thicker than standard 3M vinyl, but it’s fairly forgiving. Just patience and time.

I honestly love tan seats. What I don't like is an entire tan interior like Subaru does. Seats, door cards done

 

On that note, supposed light colored seats are cooler in the summer. Can anyone confirm or is it not really different?

Eh, not really. There may be a slight temp difference when in direct sunlight of a few degrees, but that’s a drop in the bucket if they’re already over 110 degrees. My Outback has the tan leather, my Forester has black leather. In the summer both are just “hot as hell”.

Kia Stinger GT AWD?

*flame away*

here it is

Nice! I have to ask where you got that center console piece for the gauges.