ATLspeed

 

Captain hindsight checking in! You should of inspected the main seal while you were in there because that is way more prone to leaking than that random plate. That sounded weird to me from the get go, first off, that plate cover is for the crankcase ventilation, not much oil gets in there. It's also the access for one of the piston wrist pins, and that's sealed as well. Basically not much oil gets in there unless its splashing around, and if it does, theres is a drain on the bottom, so the likelihood of that leaking is very slim, it's not pressurized. The entrance is pretty high on the block, oil's gotta get pretty high to get in there.

I had feeling to change it "while I'm there" but didn't it was leaking since the screws were loose for the plate. Also I kept seeing it's a common failure point for leaks. I don't know the inner workings of the EJ motor as I do a 2j, so I didn't know what the plate was for except the crank ventilation was tied to it. Big oof on my part. I'm going to order the rear main seal from the dealer today and just replace it.

I started the thread and would like to end the thread with good news:cool:

Looks like you have found the problem.

 

Good Job.

Unfortunately the leak is still there. I just barely see it dripping off the middle of the blocks lip and onto the subframe. So it’s looking like the rear main seal is the culprit.

Now I have to convince myself to pull it apart again lol. I can do it in a day luckily

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guess I saw this one to late. Of course its possible to get in between there without pulling the tranny or engine, hasn't ANY of you changed your clutch before?? lol . There are a bunch of ways to do it.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-clutch-replacement-video-126975.html

 

thats the move the tranny back method, most common method.

 

Make sure you use sealant when reinstalling the plate. And if your replacing it, there are 2 types both use a different and specific screws.

Mine is auto, so it wouldn’t have done me any good trying to fight the torque converter from falling out and spilling fluid everywhere lol. Although now I think about it, I could have probably put together a bracket to hold it in place.

But that thing is heavy with fluid and torque converter

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Well it’s possible. Wouldn’t recommend though. I had a gut feeling the screws didn’t have loctite due to the other half ass hack work on it from the previous owner (see previous thread). One screw came off easily.

*Also found this link

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1805288

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I may see if I can rent one at the very least. Even though this is just my beater, I know I’m going to want to clean off all that caked on oil lol

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budgets and turbo cars. i just don't get it. if $200 breaks the bank, how do you afford everything else?

 

cracking the seal with transmission is easy with a hoist and the tilt mechanism. its a pain with the lift alone. its damn hard without a hoist. You could do it, but you could so many other things with those hours too. Drive uber for a couple days & buy a hoist.

 

if you have a lift, how come you don't have a hoist? usually having the money for a lift means hoist money already existed

I know what you mean, but this is one of those moments where you’re digging too much into the situation for information.

- $200 breaks the bank now because my “build/vacation” savings have been spent on the Supra to rebuild the bottom end/built top/single turbo/build diff/clutch/etc. That $200 will be coming out of pocket to go towards my certification test for my job. Also I had to take off 2wks from my job due to covid. Should have been paid leave, due to company policy, but they didn’t.

- Can’t drive Uber due to vehicles being a 2005 and a 1995, neither will pass MD State Inspection

- I was automotive technician/mechanic in 2017 when I replaced mentioned parts. In 2018 I moved and switched to careers. So I don’t have access to a lift anymore.

*Hoist that was used to pulled the motor out of the Supra is being used currently by the owner

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I'm going to give it a shot. Engine hoist may be just $200 but that's $200 that can go towards something useful. I'll use the jack and some jack stands with blocks of wood to support the motor. Worst case scenario is if the screws don't come out without too much effort. May just use a dremel cutoff wheel to make a slot for a flathead screw driver with a wrench or vice grips on them.

I initially thought it was the oil pan or the turbo return. So I put it on the lift and pulled the pan and resealed it along with replacing the turbo return line. That was 3yrs ago. Notice when the weather is cold in the fall/winter it will leak until the motor warms up. It's embarrassing to have dedicated parking spot due to the spots from the leaks lol

05 GT/Auto

Is it possible to replace the oil separator plate without removing the motor or trans? I am mechanically inclined btw. Thinking it may be possible by:

- removing the radiator

- cover/pad AC condenser just in case

- lifting/moving engine towards from of car with jack

Don't have access to an engine hoist and don't plan to buy one until the near future. Saw a pic of it being done while still in car but can't find it. My car is leaking ALOT on cold start ups below 55*F. So I need to take care of this before cold weather kicks in

New to the subie world myself. Picked up this 05 GT wagon yesterday while my other car is in the body shop. Made the 3hr drive back home without a problem. Gave it a good bath and interior cleaning since it needed it.

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/vv94/Kidd_Nickles/20170402_150759_zpskgfcyazy.jpg