Blackhawk2k7

What aftermarket fuel pump would you suggest? I am eyeing the DW65c along with biting the bullet and just replacing the stock fuel filter *sigh*. I have seen a little bit on rewiring the DW65c to negate volt drop but what is your opinion on the matter of rewiring? Is it needed?

Thanks

TYPE OF STUTTER/STUMBLE

Steady throttle/Increasing throttle/Both: sometimes both, but consistently increasing throttle between 2100-2250rpm

MODS

Intake:KNN Typhoon, mishimoto turbo inlet, Perrin TMIC

Exhaust:Invidia catless up-pipe, cat-back magnaflow

Fuel:STi FPR (vacuum line running off BPV)

Turbo:Stock turbo

Engine Management:Cobb AP.3

Tuner and revision of tune(if you don't mind):Erik at Torqued Performance, not sure of revision number

MAINTENANCE

Sensors changed: none

Plugs changed: factory standard plugs with less than 5k miles

Coil Packs changed:none

OTHER SYMPTOMS

Check Engine Light:none

Etc:have a shitty Pilot bearing, and now TOB on my stage 2+ performance clutch (no idea why the P.O. installed this ridiculous clutch)

RESULTS

What has and hasn't worked for you:what has worked is resetting my ECU, then after a couple hundred miles it's back, the FPR mod and vacuum location swap helped a lot by decreasing the overall feeling, but I think I need to get a new fuel pump soon and try that out

Covertrussian:

I am shadowing your build thread semi-religiously, I thank you immensely for the time and effort you put into getting that all together. I have even swayed several newer owners on facebook and otherwise to read this thread before going for more power. I am just about to tackle the avcs banjo filters, I was wondering if you knew whether you could remove the front banjo (under the timing cover) by grinding the nub off, without having to takeoff the timing cover?

Also,

For some of the threads, that photobucket ruined for everyone, would you still have the original pictures readily available to send if the need arose?

Thank you for everything you, and everyone else does for this forum

Luckily I saved my OEM ones, time to break out the go pro and get that video

Thanks guys!

My passenger main shaft moved just the tiniest amount...

Ugggggggggggggg

There a fix for that besides throwing them away?

Get under the car while it's off and check the in/out play of the axle by grabbing the main shaft and moving it in and out. If there is any play, there is your culprit.

 

I had the exact issue you had when I swapped in new aftermarket axles while rebuilding my oem ones.

Will be doing that shortly, THANK YOU!

Went the *easy* route and picked up a pair of 7336n duralast gold new cv axles. Did the swap, was fairly easy as far as these things go, have done SEVERAL FWD Honda, and the like, cv axles and always have had no problems. Hell, it even helped with some if the wonky steering issue I was having.

However I have a new intermittent problem now, sometimes during medium to full throttle application, my steering wheel vibrates the whole way up the rev range. I can't nail down any 1 instance where it happens consistently, but it does not do it during light driving.

As M sprank mentions it could be the tranny mount, I don't believe that's the case for me, as I have a new Group-N tranny mount with less than 2k on it, complimented with all new aftermarket kartboy tranny bushings...

Maybe I also have to replace my LCA bushings (which seem like have never been replaced in 110k), the motor/pitch stop mounts, or I just got some bum axles...?

I still have my stock cv axles sitting around, replaced both because my passenger-tranny boot tore and erupted axle grease all over my downpipe, smelled great

Might just repair the torn boot and replace with OEM's when I get my Mevotech LCA's.