Sparkey

Would you mind posting pictures of your setup? I'm interested in your vacuum referenced fuel dampers.

 

I was going to post a pic of the box its all in but the photo was too large

 

Unfortunately life has gotten in the way and I havent installed anything yet. I'll probably do a thread when I do install because I'll need some sort of help I bet. Doing top feed, VF52 and flex fuel all at the same time. I have a plan, but everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face!

Isn't he the one who put out a video 'trashing' the use of lightweight crank pulleys? He convinced me not use these anymore

 

Yup. His fueling video is why I overkill and bought an ID750 filter and I believe I got two or three vacuum referenced fuel dampers.

Here you go you oil filter groupies.

 

It's not up on his site yet though.

 

Thats dope. I need to join more social media - I got the cooling mod but it just mentioned "more things in development".

 

I guess I dont get why you would want a remote oil filter setup with additional regulator - as I understand it shimming the pump is the only real mod needed for good pressure and flow with Subaru oiling. So I asked and this is what Dom said:

 

"The relief location is poor.

The oil is very slow to get to the heads.

The oil is slower to get out of the heads and back to the pan, resulting in major issues with pressure during cornering.

The cooler is inadequate for heavy use.

The pickup is restrictive.

The filter is small overall and the bypass opens at a low pressure.

The mains don't stay round resulting in pressure that drops with mileage.

The filter is tucked up against the header and gets a lot of heat from it. Also difficult to change due to location. Worse with some headers vs others.

 

My oil setup addresses:

Filtration quality.

Filtration pressure drop.

Messiness of oil changes.

Improper regulator location and sensing points, reducing pressure drop with rpm.

Inadequate cooling.

Low filter bypass pressure setpoint.

 

It eases pressure and temp sensor installation, use of oil coolers, allows user to adjust pressure, allows user to adjust temperature, allows user to adjust restriction etc. "

 

And then I asked to clarify about the oil bypass and adding a heater to pull fuel and water from the oil:

 

"A lot of aftermarket oil filter companies run 8-20psi reliefs. 8 is way too low, but honestly, I don't want any bypass. I want the filter to be changed often enough that it isn't an issue. Last thing I want is a slug of crap to come off the filter and slip through the relief. Having the relief external to the filter provides some protection against that. Also, my setup allows more than one filter to be run in parallel which reduces pressure drop substantially.

 

The factory cooler is also a heater. Getting oil heated in a Subaru is not an issue. A lot of thermostats are set too cold, but that isn't an issue for Subarus usually. Fuel boils way less than water and it is not uncommon to see oil temps over 220 leaving the engine. In short, an add-on heater is not needed at all. AOS needs it because they deal with vapor; both oil and both combustion gases. This isn't a vapor system and won't be subject to condensation. "

 

Sounds really good. I'll be interested to see the tests and results of it.

 

Never heard back from Cole - not surprised. I need to go pick up some ATF and gear oil so maybe I'll drop by and say hi.

What are thoughts/knowledge re using the longer 15208AA15A OEM filter in place of the 15208AA12A filter on an EJ engine? We have 2x EJ253, 1x EJ255, and 1x FA20 here. The FA20F (2018 Forester) uses the larger filter. Is it acceptable to use the longer filter on the EJ engine? Needing only one filter on hand will simplify things a bit. Or might the longer filter on the EJ pick up added heat from the exhaust header surrounding it?

 

Plenty of people run the Mazda version of the old Tokyo Roki filter which is longer and have no problems. If I remember correctly reducing heat was the intention of shrinking the filter but I dont think its a huge issue. If you want to be preventitive theres oil filter blankets to reflect header heat. But i think theres more too it then that between the two OEM filters

 

The only thing I'm unsure of is the bypass setting for the FA engines. I know all EJ's have a 23psi spec - but I've not looked into the FA engines.

 

I was unable to find the information I wanted to verify, so I reached out to FRAM. They Confirmed that they do infact manufacture Subaru's filters, but "Do not have access to release proprietary information" They gave me SOA's number.

 

Calling Subaru was like pulling Teeth!! You'd think I was asking for some super secret security clearance! Maybe I should have pulled a Rob Dahm and pretend im Travis Pastrana asking for information. Subaru of America flat out said that they call "A dealer service manager" for "technical information". So they admit they could have gotten this info but decided to pass it off anyway?

 

I put a call into Cole who is a name at Heuberger that SOA gave me that they contact but had to leave a message.

 

rhino - where did you find that spec?

 

I found these specs: https://www.comeanddriveit.com/specs/fa20dit which seem to indicate the oil pump has been downsized greatly which I believe would in turn lower the bypass of the filter.

 

I honestly was assuming they were the exact same - just height different for the heat issue but there seems to be more to it. If the bypass is in fact different you would want to use the right filter to prevent starvation or unfiltered oil conditions.

Stupid odometer tricks!

 

 

To bad you werent doing 22mph at 2222rpm... Y2K for cars!

both actually. I have read about Tuning alliance's approach for testing boost leaks: removing pipe from air filter, plugging it with can, blowing in the BPV hose. And I have read a write up at boost leak testers, but they are vague about removing some lines from the turbo inlet and capping them, or clamping lines.

 

It would be nice to see exactly where the smoke is fed into for the two types of tests and what lines, are capped, or clamped.

 

I made a DIY tester and has some pics of it in use. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-smoke-leak-tester-277243.html

 

Ive read about removing and capping lines but never did. Cryo helped me find a leak one time and verified no leaks another - never capped or removed anything. We were looking for vac leaks, but its all the same.

 

I believe you can test the evap system at the same time as the boost, but there is a purge valve and solenoid that if closed may hinder it. You could attach near the firewall or off of the manifold at the purge valve solenoid hose. Cryo has some highlighted pics on his site that may help. https://www.cryotuneperformance.com/faq theyre under pretune checklist.

So this is interesting... heres the response I got when I noted that I couldnt find anything other then 23psi bypass spec in all of the Subaru FSM's from 1992 to 2015:

 

"We reviewed the Subaru data closely and were able to confirm the correct oil filters for your vehicles. As you probably know, Subaru has superseded many filters throughout the years where they are now left with only a few.

 

For your Forester, we correctly recommend the X4460 as that filter has a 23PSI valve, and it is a wide-body version matching the original Subaru oil filter. The S4615 is a great Synthetic option for this application as it has the 23PSI valve and all other critical features and dimensions match the X4460.

 

For your Impreza, the recommended Subaru filter 15208-AA12A has the 23PSI valve. The correct ECOGARD filter is the X4615, or the S4615. We will update our catalog to recommend the 4615 instead of the 4612.

 

I apologize for the inconvenience this has caused you. As an appreciation of your help and patience on this matter, I would like to send you S4615 filters and some extras in a care package at our cost. Let me know your address and I will have our team send them to you promptly.

 

Thank you"

 

Its just insane to me that they can sell any filter at nearly $2, much less have it match OEM spec and have good customer service. The synthetic ones are around $5 and have improved filtration. I think I've found my filter... but I'm still going to consider a bypass setup as well

And can someone tell me about the benefits of an anti-drainback valve on a filter used in a Subaru? If the filter is hanging upside down off the engine, wouldn't gravity take care of making sure the filter is always full?

 

As Sgt. Gator pointed out, its more then just the filter - if its not allowed to drain back it should keep the passages full an prevent dry starts.

 

I run the larger Amsoil Filter - EA15K13

 

Interestingly enough - Amsoil filters run a lower bypass 11 -17 PSI on all filters - so high bypass may not always be the answer?

 

Although I would think they've at least generally researched appropriate bypass levels since they are sponsoring race cars and such?

 

Amsoil Filter Specs

 

I sent out some e-mails and such to manufacturers...

 

Amsoil seems to contradict themselves.

 

"All of our filters meet the bypass valve pressure relief settings that the OEM calls for. Most of our filters are 11-17psi but some have 18-24psi levels to meet the standards that are set, or else we would be able to recommend our filters for use.

 

The bypass setting will make the oil filter through center tube only if the pressure in the filter reaches the set psi. If this didn't happen then the oil filter would swell up and explode. The only time you would want a lower setting than OEM would be to not put as much pressure on the filter itself."

 

By their filter chart they dont make a correct filter, so I asked for clarification.

 

"The 23 psi would be referring to that would be the max pressure the filter can see before entering bypass mode. Since our filters would enter bypass mode before then 11-17 psi it is below 23 psi that the factory expresses so it makes the filter suitable for use."

 

I believe they just dont want to have as many SKU's as they should have and thus use lower bypass filters so the one filter fits many more applications... that or they just dont make a filter that can handle factory pressures

 

Spoke to Fram and this is what they had to say:

 

Me 09:58

Hello, I am curious about oil filter bypass valve spec and what happens if the filter spec isnt what the OEM calls for?

Donald 09:59

The by pass valve operates on a pressure difference between inside the filter media and outside the filter media. They claim that is the wrong spec is used it could by pass when it is not supposed to and not filter the oil.

Is there anything else I can help you with?

Me 10:02

When you say "they claim", are you saying they're wrong? Because that sounds bad if my oil filter is getting bypassed

Donald 10:03

No. I am not saying they are wrong. It would be bad if it is not getting filtered.

Me 10:05

So it is bad to run a filter with a lower then OEM spec.

Read

Donald 10:06

Yes it could lead to engine damage.

 

And when you look up filters they really only recommend one for turbo applications "Based on OE Specification". The other ones are transmission filters and used for N/A applications - more on that to come...

 

I'm still talking with Ecoguard because they seem to state N/A's use a lower bypass then Turbos which contradicts the factory manuals. Heres what they had to say:

 

"The filter’s by-pass valve is a safety measure to allow oil to circulate through the engine to ensure the engine is not starved of oil when the filter is clogged or when the oil is cold and thick during startup. The basic premise of the by-pass valve is that it is better to have dirty oil in the engine than to have no oil at all.

 

In conjunction, the by-pass valve opening pressure setting is very important for the longevity of the engine. If the by-pass valve opens at lower pressure than intended by the engine manufacturer, the valve could be in the open position during normal operation allowing dirty oil to wear down engine components at a much greater rate. The key for every filter with a by-pass valve is to have the opening pressure set higher than the differential pressure created by normal operating pressure of the vehicle.

 

Many Subaru models, including your Legacy GT, have their oil lubrication system operating at higher pressure than most common vehicles on the road. The higher differential pressure created by the Subaru engines require the filter’s by-pass valve to be set to open at higher pressure in order to prevent the valve from opening too soon and remaining opened for extended period of time. Similar-sized filters designed for other vehicles like Hondas, Nissans, etc. have their opening pressure set lower at about 12PSI which is not appropriate for most Subarus.

 

The ECOGARD oil filter X4615 is specifically designed for Subaru applications with a by-pass valve set to open at 23PSI. If you change your oil and filter beyond 5,000 miles, we recommend the ECOGARD part number S4615 which has the same by-pass valve and is designed for oil changes up to 10,000 miles.

 

I hope the above explanation gives you confidence in your understanding of the by-pass valve and the importance of opening settings."

 

I looked at their reference chart and they listed one filter as a "Velocity option" which is the one rockauto lists for all Subaru applications. I also asked what they would recommend if I ran synthetic but only for 3500 miles.

 

"Do you have the non-turbo 2.5L Legacy? If so, the S4612 is the correct oil filter for your vehicle. The non-turbo engines do not require the higher-set by-pass valve.

 

 

 

If you have the turbo 2.5L, the S4615 is the correct oil filter due to the 23PSI by-pass valve requirement.

 

 

 

The Velocity Option means that filter has a smaller can diameter than the original filter and thus will fit more vehicles. The Velocity Option’s critical dimensions and components like the gasket, by-pass valve, drain-back valve, etc. match the original filter, so it performs as intended in the vehicle. The only difference between the original and the Velocity Option will be the amount of filter media inside and thus total amount of dirt the filter can hold. This does not affect the function of the filter at all if changed at 5,000 miles or less.

 

 

 

To be clear, the S4612 is not an option if you have the turbo and require the S4615. The original filter for the non-turbo Legacy is the ECOGARD X4460.

 

 

 

As far as using synthetic oil and keeping change interval at 3,500 miles, we would always recommend the S filter over the X. The S filter uses a synthetic blend media that holds more dirt and filters out smaller particles to better protect modern engines. Today’s filtration technology allows us to build filters with great filtration properties without sacrificing flow of oil.

 

 

 

To summarize: if you have the non-turbo Legacy, the S4612 is a great filter for you. If you have the turbo Legacy, you’ll want to use the S4615."

 

So now I've sent an inquiry stating that all Subaru's factory service manuals call out a 23PSI bypass on the filter. And all the pump specs are very similar even with the rotor width being different. So I've asked where they got their information from for the N/A filter specs or why it would be different if the pump output is the same?

 

I always though the 11 and 12mm pumps would flow more and such but im not sure thats true if a 9 and 10mm flow the same.

I run the larger Amsoil Filter - EA15K13

 

Interestingly enough - Amsoil filters run a lower bypass 11 -17 PSI on all filters - so high bypass may not always be the answer?

 

Although I would think they've at least generally researched appropriate bypass levels since they are sponsoring race cars and such?

 

Amsoil Filter Specs

 

Race cars are just rolling advertisements and usually run far different components then off the shelf stuff https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/basic-car-maintenance-tips/different-types-of-oil-filters-and-how-they-work

 

I guess there might be a combination of thinner oil with a higher flow filter that would need a lower bypass? I cant really think of a situation that would call for a lower bypass then spec without decreasing flow.

 

I may reach out to a few companies and see what they say... but after more reading I think I want a heated bypass filter for 2 micron filtration and to remove water and fuel contaminants. didnt HAMMERDOWN have a dual filter bypass system and make it nearly 350k?

It's worth considering the sizes of the filters. The larger filters have more area, therefore take longer to clog up and less restriction on flow, thereby reducing pressure drop due to the filter.

 

Note the short STI/LGT filter vs the larger Outback filter. I run the Purolator Boss, Mobil One and the larger Subaru OEM filter depending what's on sale. They all fit on my race cars because I've removed the Oil/coolant heater/cooler that makes the filter hang down so low.

 

The Purolator Boss splits the difference between the short OEM size filters and the longer OEM and Mobile 1 filter.

 

I estimate the taller filters have about 30% more filter media area. The Purolator Boss and Mobil 1 have significantly heavier duty construction than any of the other filters. And they claim higher burst strength because of it. For me it's important that when hopping over apex curbs and the occasional off track excursions that the filter have an extra margin of puncture/tear/dent resistance.

 

I did a comparison a while ago, here you go in pics:

 

 

 

From: https://www.ecogard.com/explaining-concept-oil-filter-consolidation-customers/

 

"The paper media in today’s filter elements are more advanced, with the ability to capture more dirt than they used to. This translates to less paper in the finished filter and ultimately allows aftermarket manufacturers to reduce the size of the canisters."

 

But when comparing two filters of the same media, like the two blue subaru filters, yes, the filter of larger area would be better. However, supposedly they use the smaller one to help limit heat transfer on turbo models however. But then if you get an oil filter heat blanket then it doesnt matter

Did you have your boys with you? Time to start teaching them how to drive a stick.

 

One of the neat tricks I showed them was how to start the engine in a rolling car using clutch.

 

My dad taught me how to clutch-less shift if my cousins WRX... by sticking his leg out of the window to prove it. my grandpa owned a quarry and he had to drive a dump truck with 24 gears and no clutch lever. So key off at stops and starter to get going and rev match from there. He hates manuals now... but is pretty good at em

I tried reading through this a few days ago actually, and when gary and superbusa start going at it, I just can't even follow what's happening actually. A lot of arguing about theoretical max flow of the oil pump and whether the high bypass is needed and if it's there because of the pump from what I could tell. I don't know if it gets more informative later on.

 

It seems to me that the reason everyone said to run OEM filters for a long time is that bypass spec. But with many options that have that spec, what's really the difference in the filters. Outside of a few ones making claims about levels of filtration, I can't seem to find any real information. There are pictures of things cut open, complaints about cardboard, and comments that black tokyo roki filters are better than blue fram/honeywell filters because something.

 

I don't care if it's cardboard or fairy dust filtering the oil, as long as they both filter properly over the intended OCI interval. Maybe I'll try going through that thread again and I'll pick up something I missed.

 

Basically Fram has some failures that ruined their rep as Fram and some of the first blue filters were recalled so people stuck with what worked - the black ones. Then people search the internet and find outdated info but continue to apply it. Like you said, the construction is irrelevant if it works, then it works. But others like myself do feel more comfortable with metal construction - which from looking at some of the top thread blue subie filters they look to be taller and with metal caps? Ive not checked into that yet tho.

 

Without extensive testing the theorys behind extra filter media and such are just theories. Two filter medias of totally different thickness, composition, and length can perform the exact same. But its not a major price difference and I at least feel like im providing more then adequate oil and filtration with filters and companies that seem to have more media.

 

I also found some people who had specs on the holes in the center tubes and were discussing flow rates. I think that topic is far more touchy as that then could be dependent on your filter media. Some media may require slower filtration - is it too slow for the bypass and causing it to open more then normal?

I think most people are fine doing 3750 oci synthetic per subarus recommendation. Honestly I'm pretty OK using oe filters blue or black. Lots of people use them on lots of vehicles with no issues. I don't think I've ever seen oil starvation attributed to a filter unless it got knocked off the vehicle or oil contamination if it wasn't pushed way beyond oci recommendation.

 

So the question, imo, becomes what's better. Is the oem filter good enough for most applications? Does using a high level of filtration effect oil pressure over the course of the oci, or extended oci (almost certainly not. Wouldn't make a good product if it did) Are there measurable differences that matter in the levels of filters?

 

The last question makes me think of covertrussians last post on inlet pressure drops. I'm still trying to sort out if that difference matters. Like if you're trying to catch every last little bit of perfection then yes but is the difference in the blue subaru filter, the Mazda filter, and the amsoil filter enough to make me go out of my way?

 

When you say better, what do you want it to be better at? Extended OCI filters have bigger micron ratings then standard filters - both will work fine but ones better at filtering and ones better at not having to be changed as often.

 

Sort of spitballing here so im not sure but this is my thought.

 

You shouldnt see starvation due to the bypass. You would have to have a clogged filter and failed bypass for the oil filter to cause starvation. Im mostly concerned with the oil actually being filtered and not bypassing it. As with the banjo filters being clogged - in theory that shouldnt happen because it should have been trapped in the filter right? So if enough particles are passing through to the banjo filters to clog them, it seems the bypass opens often. What if people using non oem spec filters is what helped contribute to the filters being clogged? If the bypass is half the psi, your filtering only half as much because the bypass is open more.

 

Pressure increases over time with the filter catching more particles. When a fuel filter clogs you see pressure drop and a dirty air filter doesnt pull as much air. Its why Injector Dynamics put a gauge on their fuel filter and Ford put one on their 'lifetime' air filter.https://www.ecogard.com/fuel-filter-101-symptoms-replacement-cost/

 

From those three filters you could go with whats cheapest and be fine - but thats mostly because theyre all subaru spec filters.

 

Also I'm going to hypothesize that these small differences don't add up to much in all honesty. It's not the thing that kills our cars. But I still want to know if cheetah blood will make my engine 0.005% less likely to explode.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yes and no. It only takes one bad lean event to take out an engine. And while using a wrong spec filter once may not be bad, continued use could slowly take out an engine. I feel like if the filter did its job well enough 100% of the time the banjos never had clogged. Maybe the solution to failed turbos was actually a symptom of incorrect spec filters?

 

I'll drop an older discussion into this thread as well. It's a long read, but hey, if you're bored..

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1410171

 

I joined bitog in 2004, and I've been an oil and filter geek for a long time. I used to care a lot about this kind of thing. Over the years I've started to realize something though, it really doesn't matter anymore in most cars. Since this is a discussion about filters, I'll try to stick to filters, but it's hard.

 

I will only use a filter which meets Subaru's bypass valve spec, they are very easy to find these days. Fram, wix, napa, purolator, oem subaru, all the big name companies now make a filter that meets that spec, there is no reason not to in my opinion. I've heard that high insolubles on a used oil analysis is one way to determine if a filter is overloaded, and not doing its job anymore. I've never seen a Subaru uoa with high insolubles to suggest that the small filter on our cars is insufficient.

 

With that said, I don't think it's the end of the world if someone runs a filter that doesn't meet the bypass valve spec. Your oil may be bypassing the filter media more often in certain situations, but it is still getting filtered. How often does all of the oil, or some of the oil go through the filter? Hard to say, a number of factors are involved in that.

 

As far as an anti-drainback valve, I think all filters for our cars come with one, since the oem Subaru filter specs one. I think that's one area where aftermarket filters won't deviate from oem. If oem has an adbv (anti-drainback valve), the aftermarket filter will too. There could be exceptions to that, but I'd be surprised if there were.

 

My theory is the bypass is open during high demand which is the same time you have the highest flow and theres the possibility you can pump all of the oil though in that short time. So even if its an event that doesnt happen often, when it does its at its most likely condition for something to go wrong.

 

Here is some info about the advancements in filtration allowing filters to be smaller. https://www.ecogard.com/explaining-concept-oil-filter-consolidation-customers/ even still, i like the longer filter for a little easier install if nothing else.

 

After typing all that I found this thread: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/309758/2 seems like the bypass opens far more then I expected. So im for doing any and everything to be sure I filter the oil as often as possible.

 

I think it would be interesting to see the same oil used on two identical filters but with different bypass spec. Then do a UOA and have the filters analyzed.

Ask Rao

 

Huh? No question, was just making thread to move oil filter discussion.

Haha ok I'll try my hand at this. Really I may have the means to do some filter testing possibly with unused filters on the media. I think there are probably a lot of stuff on the market, like the ones amsoil says you should use on the subaru (note that it's not the EA15k13) that claims to have a bypass but not at the stated PSI.

 

With some searching, you can find that the theory has been pretty beat to death. I don't know if anyone has answered why the 23psi bypass is so high (people claim it is higher than many cars. I don't honestly know this) but the thought is because the oil pump puts out a very high volume at max load. There is also debate as to whether or not the oil pump regularly hits those loads as most of the stuff I find is theory. We do however have multiple members who run oil pressure gauges so maybe we could see what is normal in the system, from different points on the engine, and kinda figure out what is really needed vs what is called for. Because remember, subaru called for filters in the banjo bolts.

 

Most of the theory threads seem to be inhabited by people who don't own turbo subarus or aren't doing oil analysis on their vehicles. So more so than is a 23 psi needed, I'd like to see something more like https://web.archive.org/web/20050311162313/http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/ on filters for our cars. Of course willing to input my time and whatever access to stuff I have.

 

To note though, I am not an engineer, or a chemist, nor do I really understand oil. Also I realize this probably doesn't really matter THAT much at the end of the day. Not trying to get long oil change intervals or more engine life. Just my own curiosity.

 

I too am curious about how often the bypass is triggered both new and over the life of a filter but I do believe it would require two gauges strategically placed for accurate readings at the filter.

 

I do think whats being discussed is quite important but sometimes people get caught up in the little things. Its not like we're talking about a cabin air filter - the oil and oil filter are important to the life of the vehicle. And while theres no single "best" filter, its nice to be aware of differences and what to be aware of or think of while shopping.

 

Yeah, Subaru also recommended coolant additive because of the head gasket issue and put cats in the up pipe... but mfg bashing aside - Subaru isnt the only company to recommend a specific PSI bypass. GM has a requirement about it and the filter company (Ecoguard) also had notes about improper filter bypass spec. So I do think theres more to it then the standard "Only use Subaru approved products" jargon and it seems like some filters listed as "OEM replacement" dont actually have the right bypass spec.

 

I pulled this from the WDYDT thread:

i did filter life testing when i first started my job. but it all depends on what you think is important. do you want EVERYTHING filtered out? are you ok with changing the filter every month? can it be giant, so you don't have to change it every month? What's your price point? do you really care about 5 micron particles?

 

We (where i work) don't care about sub-7 micron particles, and we deal with some VERY precise and small fluid paths (and a TON of them), so i'd venture to guess that a Subaru engine doesn't care either...

 

the main issue with anything is you can't design/make it to please everyone.

 

the filters are made to Subaru spec, and for a good cost. Subaru gets exactly what they ask for.

 

The Brotella Brothers think their STI needs to run on pure, cold-filtered cheetah blood. they don't like OEM filters.

 

There are filters that are "worse" than the OEM filters, and there are probably some that are better. does that "better" make a difference? is it worth the cost?

 

Which has a good point - theres no single best filter - you need the filter that best fits your intentions. The filter thats best at filtering would not be the filter for long OCI unless you plan on swapping filters often for the same oil or having a massive filter able to withstand high levels of filtration for extended periods of time.

I did it... I made an oil filter thread.

 

Link: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oil-filter-discussion-thread-280949.html?p=5929588#post5929588

In order to keep the WDYDT thread uncluttered, I think this is where oil filter discussion should happen.

 

There is quite a bit to be said about filters, but I'll start with this as its one thing I never put any thought into but seems to be a very big deal.

 

I believe it is very important, if not most important, that you choose a filter with the proper 23psi bypass valve setting. Anytime your oil is bypassing the filter its like not even having a filter. Here is a note I found on a filter website, "GM recommends this part number for specific applications that require a pressure relief valve opening pressure setting of 22 PSI. For comparison, X2222 and S2222 are both direct replacements of ACDelco PF48/PF48E, which features a pressure relief valve that is set to open at 15 PSI." with another note of "Incorrect use of these oil filters may result in premature engine wear and costly repairs." When Subaru switched from Tokyo Roki to Fram they had Fram bring their bypass valve spec up to 23psi to meet the required spec.

 

If you're going for extended OCI, you should be using an extended OCI (or synthetic) filter or replacing your filter even if you keep the same oil as the collection of particles will increase the Delta P and cause the bypass to open.

 

Additionally its good to have an Anti-Drainback valve to prevent dry startups.

 

I had originally decided on Wix XP Synthetic filters but I think I will switch over to the Maza Tokyo's because they're taller with more media. While its not required - I think its a good thing to have more media surface area.

 

And now let the debate flood gates open!

Been driving my wagon a bit lately. Needed to replace my hot water heater yesterday and a 40 gal tank fit like a glove. It's only noticeably using/leaking oil when being daily driven so I feel like a rip here and there isn't hurting it. Trying to get a second quote for the turbo work from a shop my friend recommended.

 

Was in Denver the last week for work, didn't see any LGT wagons, but man you guys have a lot of LGTs and OBXTs around. Rare to see any variant around here.

 

The way I read that I thought you were taking your water heater for a rip and it was leaking oil. Or that you installed a 40gal water heater into your Legacy

 

Colorado in general seems to be a "mecca" for Subaru's. We have 5 in the family with three being Legacy's. I've been seeing more of the Outback Sedans lately and probably would have got one if they ever made a manual. (MCM did a cool "Mad Max" style one HERE) As the bumper sticker says... they're not just for lesbians anymore!

 

My poor legacy has just been parked for awhile now. I finally pulled the trigger on my top feed conversion parts. Got everything (and then some) for top feed, VF48, AOS, and Flex fuel install. Super excited!! Hope to get started on that within two weeks. Maybe start a new thread or bring back my old 'build' thread where I wanted to stay stockish and not do half the mods I've done so far...

Bought an 02 Forester with 340,000 on the ODO currently - I want to try and hit half a million. Or at least have it long enough to allow me to get the work done on my LGT . Leaks like a sieve, but starts right up, runs, and compression was good.

 

After finding the P.O. removed the 'Check Engine' bulb I cleared the codes to start fresh. Light came on for a bit, but then turned off. Ended up pulling the battery and resetting the ECU before I could pull codes and it hasnt come on again since.

 

I still need to leak down test it, but a combustion gas test came back good. It has recently replaced plug wires but the plugs looked like they could be replaced. Typical air filter and fluids change is in order along with installing the new radiator I bought to replace the leaky one. I'll also do a thermostat and cap since im in there. Not knowing the condition or last replacement of the timing components I'm probably going to do a timing belt and water pump replacement. Possibly reseal the oil pump, oil pan and valve covers while i'm in there - cut down on some of the leaks and lost oil.

 

What fields should I monitor while driving? I just want to be able to check the engines overall health and make sure the A/F's are good. MAF signal was spazing out but it looks like the older 2.5's use MAP? From some reading it looks like MAP, IAT and upstream O2 are the most important sensors to make sure are functional and running proper. Without it throwing a code I'm not sure what to look at or where to start to be sure its healthy. Was considering replacing the 02 as the MAP and IAT were a little pricey. I just feel at that mileage the 02 at least needs replaced as it takes the most abuse and is one of the more important ones that alters A/F.

 

Thanks!

Hey guys I just bought an 08 legacy 2.5i limited and I really need help on after market side for the engine and to turbo the car. I don’t wanna keep it n/a. I’m new to this community so I definitely need some help.

 

If it was me - I would find a running turbo engine and get an Iwire solution harness made. Then I think you just need downpipe and crossmember.

 

Otherwise, here is a pretty good video talking about whats required. You have to acquire a lot of pieces and possibly fab some things up to make it work. There may be a "kit" but I would talk with someone who's used it if so to know what challenges there may be. Theres tons of other videos of people doing it. Just search a little.

 

Out of curiosity - where are you planning to power the wideband from? I've heard tell that it's a good idea to wait to power it until the exhaust temps have warmed up a bit to prevent any thermal shock from the wideband's own heater and any condensate in the exhaust stream during startup, so a source like the rear O2 is recommended since it behaves similarly. I was going to just put mine on an SPST switch tucked next to the cigarette lighter, but curious to hear other ideas.

 

Heres a really good article about sensors: https://www.nzefi.com/bosch-lsu-wide-band-airfuel-ratio-lambda-sensors-fail-often-aftermarket-performance-applications/

 

That said, I think mines hooked up to the ACC fuse May investigate a better solution because the article said that a relay should be used that turns on when the engine is running - but what sensor or source could be used for that?

I had an awesome machine shop down on the coast that I took the Spec B arms (F/R) to, along with the replacement WL bushes, and for $20.00/bush, pressed them all out and pressed the new bits back in. They dressed the 6MT flywheel for $50.00. I was OTD for less than $200.00 even with the tip I gave the guy. Since I was installing everything myself, it just made more sense to go this route.

 

I've heard there's some good machine shops local to me, but haven't investigated or inquired yet. On the to-do list though.

 

Most of the machine shops (automotive or otherwise) only do engine work or dont seem to care to respond to e-mail or phone call. Hard to find good help these days.

 

I forgot my grandmas neighbor is a mechanic so I may see what he would charge or can offer - maybe barrow a press. If not I found a HF coupon (https://www.hfqpdb.com/) dropping the 12ton press price to $99 so thats more then reasonable IMO. I may have trouble getting a cup for the large trailing arm bushing, but everything else I think is available in some form or fashion.

 

The subaru shop thats opening wanted $200 labor for 4 bushings saying "They usually just burn and cut them out". New Aluminum arms with bushings from RA are only $180 and they at least include a BJ

 

It’s P0456. I had the car smoke tested, they told me it’s the gas tank. I had looked at the canister but it’s so hard to find a little pin hole leak. I may get another smoke test, I’m just having a hard time believing the tank is bad.

 

 

 

That’s good to know. Not sure I want to invest the time into fixing this myself, doesn’t seem like a fun project, especially without a lift.

 

Did your smoke use UV? Cryo uses UV dye in the smoke machine and it really helped to point out the leak on my BPV hose connector one time.

I wonder why they said no? I mean, part of me gets it, but it also seems like easy money.

 

I've had the same thing happen to me with various things, really caught me off guard. Asked a shop about installing my new tires, they refused, the owner got a little mad by me asking it seemed. I typically wouldn't bring parts to a shop, but I don't know, I guess I thought tires might be an exception.

 

I also asked a different shop about removing a broken bolt for me, talked to the person in the office about it since the techs were at lunch, never heard back. Yeah removing broken bolts sucks, I get it, but I was hoping to at least get a call back..

 

I often have "bad experiences" at shops or more often part stores (since I try and do most the work myself). One recent one that irked me was the parts guy trying to give me A/C UV Leak detector when I asked for Combustion leak test fluid. Only then to find out that Autozone doesnt even carry it, but you can rent the tester! Or the alignment shop not knowing the difference between 1.0 and 0.1 degrees.

 

I thought I was doing them a favor and they would be more inclined to assist if I brought just the arm and the bushing. One shop said "we just buy a new arm with new bushings already installed." That does no good if you intend to install whiteline bushings. At Heuberger the people I normally work with werent there but I have heard that they no longer install anything after market and was just flat told no. Probably ask someone I know just to verify because I'm pretty sure I was told when I had them do my timing belt "Be sure to bring it to us because we have all the right press cups to make sure we dont damage the aluminum arms".

 

I found a new Subaru specialty shop thats opening up next week - I'll see what he'll charge if he will even do it. If in fact Heuberger will not, and the new shop wont or wants to charge too much then I'll buy a press and some cups. It doesnt seem as difficult as some make it seem - also seems like theres a big market of subaru bushing replacement I can maybe corner . The only downside is I'll have to set the press up at my grandmas but thankfully have two cars so I can work on it and not be too concerned with the downtime.

Tried to find someone to replace my lower control arm bushings if the arm was removed. After finally finding someone who would (two shops said no) I was quoted 200-300 for two arms - i need 4 done. Thats a bit higher then I was expecting and is more then enough to warrant buying a press and the Avo tools - or should I leave it to someone who's done it before? They made it seem like its super difficult - one set of arms is brand new (but is aluminum), one set is 9 years old but rust free. Considering I would be using the correct sized press sockets shouldnt this be a fairly easy job?

Wouldn't the ceramakote temps be higher than the powder coat? If not, all else equal, will the CKote give as smooth a finish as PCoat? If yes, likely a tougher finish with CK vs PC but could be less flexible and prone to cracking with CK. and YMMV.

 

I'm not an expert - but a quick google shows CK at 150-180 and PC at 350-375. I dont know if thats one specific product, color, ect dependent.

 

Obviously the smoothness will depend on quality of application - just like most spray paints CK can be over applied, run, ect. (Im pretty sure its liquid and not powder) However the end result can be smooth as glass and tough as nails. I first seen it used on gun barrels and it does wear over time, but doesnt seem to flake, chip, crack, ect. Withstands heat and gun barrels do flex - they also are using it on engine internals like piston tops and valves and exhausts.