FaderUS

One thing that I keep coming back to is the used sway bar swap...could anything with the sway and/or endlinks create a popping noise in these conditions?

I have honestly never had a half shaft fail on a Subaru (but I have snapped them on the turbo cars). I may be reading too much into it, but the sound definitely has a sort of sproingy quality like something binding/releasing vs the cv joint click i've heard in other cars.

would axles/half shafts get better for some period of time after everything was torqued then gradually come back?

It definitely feels like something in the suspension binding/releasing, and didn't exist before the work was done...what issue with the center diff would cause this sort of an issue?

I have a 2011 Legacy 2.5 with 130k. I recently had the entire front suspension replaced..Struts (kyb excel-g), 2013 springs, LCA, tophats, right tie rods, and a swaybay upgraded to the larger 2013 outback unit with new swaybar links and bushings. This all oem subaru stuff, except for the struts and swaybar itself (junkyard pull from a car hit in the rear) and the work was done by a Nissan certified mechanic and it was aligned after, with nothing looking off on the alignment report.

 

When I got the car back it was fine for a bit (<100 miles) then started to pop when I turned sharply at low speed, like when parking. I have only noticed it when turning left, and it feels fine while driving and at speed.

 

He diagnosed it to a failed tophat bearing and Subaru warrantied it. I just got it back, and after <20 miles it seems to be returning, though not as loudly as before, so far...any ideas?

I am doing a front suspension rebuild on my 2011 2.5i, do the OEM LCA's come loaded with the associated bushings/ball joints?

If I was going to DIY a stock system, Walker makes a replacement axleback muffler with lifetime warranty, available from local auto parts stores. But their mid pipe only has a one year warranty. So I’d probably look elsewhere for a replacement mid pipe, maybe even oem since the original made it almost ten years. I would avoid purchasing from an online only vendor if the warranty requires returning the original failed item.

 

That's the kind of info I was looking for, thanks. I have no experience with oem style replacement parts and generally go OEM on my dailys because they do last, but $1400+ for a manifold is a bit steep. Is Walker as good a choice as any?

I have a 2011 2.5i manual, 120k that has developed a couple leaks...Haven't had it on a lift to verify but it sounds like the crossover pipe up front and the flange at the axleback section is definitely shot. I assume the rest of the exhaust is probably in the same condition since I live in NY.

 

What's the best value (not necessarily the cheapest) option for parts? This is a bone stock manual 2.5i so I don't need dual exhaust or extra noise, but dont want it to sound super cheap either.

Thanks. I just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a chance of weird electrical issue where the trans is still in park but indicating neutral. Car isn’t startable, so I’ll just rock it a bit, and pull it if needed. Thanks.

Hi all, I am attempting to move a 2005 lgt that has been sitting. The battery was dead and the car was in park, ebrake wasn’t set. I swapped the battery and want to push the car but even with the car in neutral it doesn’t want to move even a bit. Does having the shifter in neutral mean that the transmission has actually shifted out of park? I understand there could be rust on the brakes, and can try to break it loose tomorrow but wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything before I started forcing things to turn.

this thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2010-lgt-suspension-refresh-questions-278990p2.html mentions a different mount. Is it necessary with the 2013 struts?

Do you mean 13/14 oem?

FCS is the only brand on rockauto with rear preloaded struts and I've never used them, or even heard of them. I also dont like to mix/match suspension pieces front/rear if it can be avoided.

Hi all, I have a 2011 legacy 2.5i with 120k, daily, nothing fancy. it's time to catch up on some maintenance items, so I need some input. The exhaust has a leak just in front of the muffler, and somewhere up front, suspected to be in the manifold.

 

Exhaust suggestions?

 

It also needs struts, My mechanic said he has seen a few broken rear springs on these cars and recommended replacing mine at the same time as they are starting to corrode, but are not broken. There aren't many preloaded rear struts for these cars, so the options are Gabriel or FCS for preloaded, or KYB gr-2s with replacement springs...input?

 

Spring suggestions? I don't want to lower this car.

Is it even worth doing oem or junkyard springs, or should I just pop a new set of struts in?

I replaced a turbo on my LGT and have a Perrin Turbo inlet, which was previously installed. What is the magic for getting the recirc tube to attach to the aluminum inlet nipple? The inlet seems to be about 1/2" too far toward the front of the car.

Do I have to rip off my intake?

Is there a reasonable priced aftermarket hose that would work better? This is a return to stock for likely sale so don't want to put a bunch of $ into it.

It is hard to tell, I didn't compare directly a-b.

 

The old turbo was replaced at some point, if PO was to be believed, roughly 30k, but it seems like it may have been a half assed attempt as there are some weird details like mismatched fasteners, and a crummy paint job.

 

Either way I am going to complete the install this weekend and go from there.

My 05 gt with a vf40 started to make a slight moaning/hum/whistle noise that seemed to correlate roughly with expected turbo speed (not boost). I drove it home very gently and parked it (a few miles). I assumed the turbo was dying and drained the oil (I run Rotella T6 which was due anyhow, was dark but zero glitter to be seen). It has always consumed oil, and was lower than I'd expected but not hugely so. I was not burning enough oil for the smoke to be noticeable from the drivers seat. I ordered a rebuilt turbo from bustedfingermotorsports.com.

 

I just pulled the turbo, and the impeller does have some very slight motion but there doesn't seem to be any housing rubbing or chewed up vanes. They seem to spin fine (possibly slightly stiffer than the rebuilt unit, but hard to tell).

 

My question is basically: does this still sound like a failed turbo, or am I looking the wrong direction? I didn't take the time to do a pressure test, or other troubleshooting as I didn't want to chew things up worse, and just assumed I had the typical failed vf40. The sound I heard didn't seem to be a boost leak whistle sound, and wasn't consistent.

I have the same car, and it was using far more oil than yours before Subaru decided it needed a new bottom end at 87k. I don’t remember the specific threshold but it was in the neighborhood of 1 quart per 1k miles. I have had many cars from classic muscle cars to Porsche and if I lose less than 1 quart before a 3k-4K oil change I don’t consider it a problem.

 

The low oil light should never be used as a signal to add oil, it triggers far too late.

 

 

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I tend to collect cars, so it won't likely be a replacement (I'm currently up to 5 cars and about 10 early 70's motorcycles.)

 

I'm waiting in line with 450,000 of my best friends for my Tesla Model 3. I haven't decided if I am going to wait the additional year + for the P or D models which won't be available at launch though.

And to clarify this is a short block. No idea why I typed long block in the title. Is there a way to fix the title?

Thanks. To clarify I assume I would use the 2005 oil pan? I will dig around for some pics to see what extra bolt you are talking about, but haven't had my coffee yet.

 

Do you see the turbo oil return as a problem, or just something that needs a custom line made?

Hi all,

 

Any issues with swapping a short block from a 2010 turbo into my 2005 legacy gt 5eat? I would be using a VF52 turbo, heads, and all accessories from the 2005.