finsta

Hey people,

It's time for me to do the timing belt once the car comes out of storage. I was thinking about going for the Company23 kit (575) with the water pump. Not sure if there are other recommendations? As well, are the specialty Company23 tools like the cam lock tool, EJ crankshaft bit or sprocket tools worthwhile and if so, which?

Thanks in advance!

Enlight offers a nice service. However, depending on how you want to do things - you can go custom like I did.

I'm running an Invidia catless downpipe that has a GESi G-Sport cat welded in but the catback itself is a custom setup with two 2.5in Varex mufflers (VMK10-250). This way I can have a quiet exhaust and go reasonably loud if need be.

56 minutes ago, Enlight said:

If they do the job properly, the Dynamat will on on the sheet metal itself and not cover anything.

I've never applied anything like it before but from all the videos I've seen, people just run wide sheets of it and would cover where the service areas would be. I don't think I'd be able to change a window regulator or the glass if this was the case like in the photo below.

Alrighty,

Guess who's back? I've been away for a while since I've have a lot of job bouncing (the joys of being a contract worker) and working multiple jobs at the same time. But yeah, I did the thing. Finally. Painted Audi's Sonoma Green Metallic. The shop I worked with was wonderful and went all out. JDM facelift front end and USDM facelift rear. Ceramic coated and PPF'd and some extra JDM goodies if you can spot 'em.

Car has been in storage since November so I haven't been around to mention it, coupled with the work chaos. I have a few things to deal with still and need to inquire the hivemind about:

1) When they took off the vapor barriers for the paint, they got stretched and aren't in good enough shape to place back (the SIA factory guys just gobbed that butyl on). As a result, I was thinking of having an AV shop Dynamat the doors. However, my windows have those interior scratches from the felt. I thought it was initially just the tint that was scratched but apparently not. My concern is if I have the doors dynamat'd and I should repair the window glass or a regulator in the future, I fear it may be stupid hard to get to.

2) My fobs no longer engage power locking or the trunk opening. I'm guessing maybe a fuse or something popped. Anybody have leads or suggestions?

Thanks so much, people. I'm going to give it a shot next week as I'm going out of town tomorrow.

Hi everybody,

I've found that I have some scratches on my windows on the inside, somewhat diagonal but vertical. I remember reading somewhere that 61256AG000 is the magic part to replace. Does anybody have any photos on how to go about with the fix? Would like to get this done ASAP.

Thanks in advance!

Hi everybody,

So I had to replace my steering wheel pump recently. Had it rebuilt. Trusty mechanic found my steering angle sensor had died after the fact. (VDC light was on all the time) So I got a replacement and installed it, steering angle sensor works and provides data. Now, this has happened twice since all that work was done but my ABS, VDC and brake lights had come on and stay on for about 30 mins or so then just go back to normal (irrespective of restarting the car). No OBD code and I don't have the Autel tool to scan the other parts of the car. Any ideas?

Thanks. Granted he's only 16 weeks, he's barfed 2 of the 3 times I've had him in the car. He's getting a bit big to comfortably ride in the front seat, and I'm thinking he might do better in the back. Or rather my center console will do better with him in the back.

Yeah, I've been here. Have two goldens. They go in the Forester

Though not necessarily a car related part, try to get a seatbelt harness. I have two goldens. One absolutely hates the car, has puked, nervous pees. The other loves it so long as he has a lap to crawl on. It's mostly exposure. Good luck and congrats on the land shark.

Damn near complete! Lip is getting refinished today and the last item is just waiting on plastic rivets to get delivered so the S402 wheel liner extensions can be attached to the new liners. Front end looks naked without the lip on.

 

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Tuner (ShinjiTuned) is working on the basemap and hopefully that'll be loaded up next week and we can start double checking for any leaks and other issues before starting to put the miles on.

Hey bud, can you by chance share some info on those wheel liner extensions? I got a pair of fenders, was wondering what I'd need to get them good to go.

Started prepping my new power harness. Thanks to rhino6303 for the pointers to begin.

2AWG for the starter, 2 AWG for the transmission ground and 4 AWG for the chassis ground. Still need to decide how I want to do the fuse box. I took measurements of everything and will be posting them on my build page in due time for anybody who wants to make a new power harness.

Hi everybody.

I have emergency plumbing to deal with and had to clean out my parts stash. With that said, I have some parts to put up for sale. All prices are in CAD, not including shipping. Any reasonable offer will be entertained

1) Cobb shifter bushing kit

Unused, sat in a box for a while. Hardware included. $50CAD

2) 2008-2009 Facelift heated mirrors

Unused. Wrapped with green protective tape. $40 CAD

3) 2008-2009 Facelift LED mirror turn signals

Takeoffs from a heated JDM power folding mirror set. Wrapped with green protective tape. $25

4) Perrin 6sp reverse lockout

Unused, went a different route. $40.

5) Switch banks

I have two switch banks. One that has the power folding button. And another with a Euro eco button (because let's be honest, we're eco when disabling VDC...). $40 for the set.

6) 2007 specB P204-UH Radio

Taken off from car with ~35K KM on it. Includes hazard button. $120CAD, will add photos later.

7) Morimoto X-VF 3157 Amber LED bulbs (front turn signals), new in package.

$25 for the pair.

@ Max Capacity,

I have those. Unfortunately it's the Canadian winters that did me in. I followed your advice and those connectors did do their job. I realized it was a stopgap solution. I'm going to be using a Painless Performance CirkitBoss which is essentially a potted Eaton 3 fuse and relay holder for the extra accessories. I have new terminals.

@rhino6303, I'm going to PM you. Have lots of questions, I hope you're ready.

Thanks!

Hi everybody.

I got a question for the hivemind. So two years ago, my battery terminals were giving out and so I snipped them off and used those bolt down ones I've attached an image of. Now that's been fine and all for those two years but I have to do some wiring for my JDM power folding mirrors and the HID leveling motors. Looked at the connectors and the copper is extremely corroded from winters here in the Great White North. If I chop off any more wire, I won't have enough to make it to the terminal. So I decided to look into making my own. I have a hydraulic crimper and no stranger to wiring.

I know the part is 81601AG09A but looked at some BLs and BPs at the junkyard today. They all seem bundled in a loom together with other harnesses and things like the alternator regulator wiring and so on. Has anybody dealt with replacing the harness or making their own? Any advice would be appreciated.

Well, here's what I've done for the Legacy lately:

Put a down payment for paint. I'm doing the JDM Facelift swap on my '07 specB. Have a new bumper beam coming in and some K2 Gear goodies. That said, my power steering pump has been starting to squeal. Gotta look into that.

Today I got the rear bumper and headlights reinstalled. Hopefully I can get the front bumper and lip on tomorrow since it will be our last sunny day.

Got a small question, since I peeped it in your photos: how do you find the Quickjacks? I'm considering moving soonish and am looking into either these or the Maxjax. Currently don't have a workable garage so being able to do work without putting up a full two post lift would be amazing.

My car is an 08 so I’m not sure what you mean. So I have the correct plastic pieces on my car already but that thick metal plate seemed to keep the European plastic from fitting correctly.

 

 

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I swapped to from a 2007, got a facelift metal shield. Worked fine with fitment for me, maybe I'm crazy?

I found out why the radio trim pieces weren’t lining up. The thick metal support that goes under the steering wheel was putting pressure on the black plastic piece that goes on the side of the radio area. I feel like that metal piece is for safety purposes but Europe must not have them because the fitment was way too tight with it on.

I also got the shifter boot on but didn’t get a picture. I still have a lot of work to do to get this right.

I’m going to order a metal bracket for a 2010 Outback and see if it fits since that would be way easier than getting one from Europe. And for the attachment point in the front there is about a 3/8” space that I’ll make a custom bracket for out of aluminum.

That just leaves the handbrake boot and the console lid.

 

 

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I got to this too late: the plate you want is from any 2008-2009. They updated it for the facelift. I was in the same boat.

He got back to me over PM, it is this one: https://www.ebay.ca/usr/subaru2din (hope you don't mind me sharing, @finsta). I had seen it before but it didn't click that he transferred all the buttons from a donor EDM radio over.

Nah, it's cool. I just added the URL to my build log.

Test fit of the 17Z caliper on car, instead of just a loose hub. Worked out installation method a bit more and a couple tweaks to simplify the kit.

Those things look massive.