Locosiete

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/s2barus-infrontautomotive-built-stage3-335hp-412tq-187986p6.html

Reference page 6 for a look

Thank you. The ones I have that I installed are different. Mine have more slots for more adjustment. I'm confident we installed them correctly. Drove it home a little over a 100 miles after installing and didn't have any issues. Definitely feels flatter cornering compared to stock suspension. Not that I am driving like an idiot or doing track day's just came across a sweet deal I couldn't pass up. For not much more than the cost of lowering springs I got all Megan racing coilovers, rear lower control arms and strut bar. I'm happy with this purchase.

I posted that then checked the overall diameter and realised it was not that big of a difference. Post wasn't neccessary and you were spot in from the get go, my bad.

To clarify when I said thanks you for explaining the math I actually meant it. Many people, including myself for many years, never actually knew the formula.

I noticed a new noise today i have never heard before with my car. I have 2011 subaru legacy 2.5 with CVT transmission.

After pulling out of a driveway today noticed a howling noise much like the wind makes. I noticed it got louder with RPMs. So I put in natural while moving. I noticed it got louder the higher the RPMs but couldn't really hear at lower RPMs. When I came to a red light i reved the engine in natural and couldn't hear it at all. None of the fluids look low or burnt.

To clarify I am only reving up 4k at max to test this. Otherwise normal driving RPMs.

Just find it strange it only does it while moving regardless if it in gear turning or driving straight.

Anyone have any thoughts what it could be?

I would also check to see if one of the plastic push rivets didn't break and causing the fender liner to sit lower then normal. Should be able to inspect without removing tire or jacking up car.

Turn the steering wheel all the ways to left and check both sides then turn steering wheel all ways right and check again. After all its just cheap little plastic push rivets that hold the bumper and liner in. Hopefully for your sake it's as easy as replacing one or 2.

I found my cell phone to be very handy to take a video and see where my head don't fit.

Overall diameter changed from 25.97in to 26.68in.

 

Now not that big of a change and others have ran it without rubbing.

 

Also missing wheel width here

Again why I said should be similar. But thank you for explaining the math.

I have the following items available for sale or trade. Open to trades depending on item. Stereo equipment is always considered.

All parts came off my 2011 Subaru legacy base model.

I am located in Spokane Washington which is northeast corner of Washington state.

Prices listed are complete negotiable.

*Driver's side headlight $40

**sold** Bumper cover- has small crack can be repaired - aftermarket not painted. $40 **sold**

*Hood- has small damage on front corners$40

**sold** Front and rear struts- Car felt great before removing them. Selling as a set of 4 $50 **sold**

**sold** Rear lower control arms $30 **sold**

**sold** Foglight knockout cover $20 **sold**

All parts have about 90k miles on them except bumper cover that has about 5k, aftermarket.

These are taking up space so will sell at fair price. Make me a fair offer and it's yours.

Can ship but would prefer to meet locally. Buyer pays for actual shipping costs.

At stock hiegth you shouldn't have any issue rubbing. How hard are you hitting these bumps lol ?

I have been running 225/45R18s for several years and never had a problem. It's only now that I lowered mine that it rubs a little now on the freeway.

Your overall circumference should be similar to stock but your tire width is larger now.

I haven't done anything as exciting as boost like posted above but got mine back from the paint shop. Should be able to put her back together this weekend. Then I can start with modding.

Couple weeks ago installed Megan coilovers and rear lower control arms and front strut bar brace. Definitely sits better.

My car is slammed and I snapped a few rear endlinks because my LCA doesn't have those holes. They're there so you don't have to get adjustable length endlinks.

Makes sense. And especially after installing it I can see how that would make things easier to install depending on your endlinks.

I use a couple of 2x6 pieces stacked, anything requiring more lift I use my floor jack and jackstands.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Always worked for me. I don't trust the metal wheel ramps. Seen more then a few times someone tap the gas a little too hard and drive off edge or almost drive off where ramp was lifting.

Without knowing the actual answer to your question, you're going to want the end links to be as close to perpendicular to both the sway bar ends and the control arms as you can get them with the car on the ground, so pick whichever set of holes is closest to that. You probably also want the ends of the sway bar to be pointing more-or-less horizontal, and the lower sets of holes would let you do that if you go substantially lower. None of those positions should affect the ride at all (unless you preload it for circle track or something), those extra holes should just be for getting things lined up nicely.

 

Barring that, use the holes the last guy used and figure that since the arms aren't all beat up, nothing fell off or broke with the end links in that position.

Thanks for reply. Not sure why phone never alerted me of a reply. But better kate then never thank you. I did also get a reply from manufacturer and they said same thing you did in a nutshell.

Today i was able to score a complete Megan coilovers and rear control arms for my subaru for a great price. But have a question I cannot find the answer to it. Found a video that discusses one is hard vs factory but Megan has ones above and below so would like to know are they cosmetic or additional adjustments?

I have been searching online and cannot find any install info on which bolt hole provides which adjustment for the end links. There is 6 and would like to have a better understanding so I can decide how to install. Near as I can find this is a common question but nobody actually says which does what only they wish they had the info at first.

Hoping some knows the answer to my question.

Now I am not mechanic but know how to turn my own wrenches and know how to install it i am hoping i can find out more beforeinstalling this weekend.

Thanks in advance for any info.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r93/rainman85/20170825_212142175_iOS.jpg

Normally don't care much for a lip kit but i did like the way it looks on yours.

Here is our 2011 Legacy.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0019/50/58/19160585.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0019/50/29/19160592.jpg

Here is all 3 of our toys together.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0019/50/98/19160589.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0019/50/09/19160590.jpg