willisdaye

Yeah my bad for not closing this out. Appreciate the offers but I'm all good now.

Loving the konis so far. I've heard they last the longest if you don't set the damping to the upper or lower limit. I have them around the middle and am satisfied thus far.

Update for OB XT/3.0R owners looking to have the STi rack and keep VDS:

I still have not installed the new rack since I have higher priority projects on this car (and bikes ). That list is finally dwindling however, so I did more digging on this and found this really good writeup on steering angle scaling in the Forester forum. It's a comprehensive guide and a pretty straightforward project, assuming you've messed with arduino before. The github code is linked in the guide, and the only change it needs for use on an OB/LGT is to update the steering ratio. In my case since I already have an arduino on board, I'll just have to rehash my existing boost monitoring code to add SAS scaling, and add the CAN-BUS shields. Other than that, it'll probably be sometime next year that I do this upgrade, so if someone beats me to it, let us know how it goes!

If that link is broken DM me and I can send the .pdf and .ino files

I'm planning on installing Koni dampers and Rallitek springs on my 08 OBXT, and need OEM or KYB strut bodies off a LGT to do cut-a-strut with. Any condition is fine except rusty, since I will just be using the bodies / hardware. Didn't want to have to buy new ones, if someones got a set lying around within around 60mi of Portland metro area hit me up

Yeah I couldn't get anything from poking at it. Unless someone has a horror story about a defect like this I'm gonna install them. On another note, what is this bracket for? Doesn't exist on my NA LCAs and I couldn't find info on it. There's a little plastic bit on it that looks sorta like a sway bar link. It's broken in half. This is only on the driver side LCA.

Since my ball joints and inner LCA bushings are going, I thought I would put in some aluminum LCAs while I'm at it. I found a set of used JDM LCAs for a good price and was cleaning them up today before I press in new bushings and slap em on. I noticed a defect of sorts near the rear bushing. What do people think of this crack? Should I try to get a new one or does this just look like a surface level defect like scaling/porosity from the casting process? I will say that it looks a bit worse in the pictures than it does in person. I suppose I could weld over it if it comes to that. It'd be a shame if I need to dump it, it took a while to get them that shiny

On 11/30/2022 at 12:58 AM, Febreze Mee said:

Bump! I'm would like to know as well.

I'm thinking about lumping a rack swap in with other suspension upgrades I'm doing soon on my OBXT, and am also interested in not having to gut VDC. I already have an Arduino mounted near the steering column that controls my diy boost gauge, so it seems like this could be a two birds one stone situation. I think it would be as simple as using the map() function to scale the sensor signal to the original range, and using a DAC shield to output the signal to the VDS module. If I end up pulling the trigger on the STi rack, I will definitely take a stab at this and post my updates here.

The turbo has VF-46 engraved on the compressor housing. I can put a picture up this afternoon so you can see but I believe it is stock. 

I was hoping I wouldn't have to drop the DP again  The threads I read about the Invidia DP divider noted that they only had to take off a small amount of material to alleviate the issue. I really knocked the thing down. Plus, I was seeing this overboosting with the previous downpipe too, which was a bellmouth and shouldn't have caused interferance. Before I drop the DP again, can anyone confirm that the max opening angle in the picture I sent looks reasonable?

In the meantime I think I need to get a new actuator. Consensus seems that Kinugawa is a good choice?

I poked around the wastegate today and I think I'm narrowing it down.

The shorter hoses in the 'T' section are actually in pretty good shape, and there's a pill in there. With the actuator arm unhooked, the wastegate moves freely, with a 70 or so degree range. (pic below) You said it was supposed to be 90? The bigger piece of evidence I found is the actuation pressure. It seems to start moving between 5 and 10psi, but it maxes out at about 20, and when the arm is attached and it hist 20 it doesn't open as much as when it's detached and I open it by hand. My pressure gauge was pretty cheap though so I'll benchmark it when I get the chance.

Overall though, It's also kind of looking like the actuator arm is just too short; It has no slack when the arm is attached, as I had to pull it and compress the spring a good bit just to get it back on. Could this actuator be aftermarket / incorrect / busted? It's my understanding that they don't go bad very often. I've already found and fixed other questionable modifications by the PO so I'd almost be inclined to say they installed this shorter actuator in a dangerous attempt at increasing boost. I'm not well versed with what the stock hardware looks like on this car so someone should chime in.

So far I've checked the BCS and hoses. I bench tested the BCS itself and it seems to work well. some of the hoses seem worn, and might not seal well, so I'll replace / ziptie them. I'll check the wastegate soon. The actuator arm unfortunately does not look adjustable, pic below.

2008 OBXT Limited, 174k miles, 3k on the engine. All stock (VF46 turbo) except for:

* Invidia catted divorced WG DP

* Invidia up-pipe

* Invidia Q300 catback

* DW65C fuel pump

* Open source protune

I just had the tune done after installing these parts, and I think I'm having an overboosting condition. The tuner said it would hit 19-20psi (5 over target) and that WGDC was off. He couldn't get that to change with the tune, and said that it's probably mechanical. He said since I have a divorced wastegate downpipe, I should make sure the divider isn't obstructing the flapper. I saw a small clean spot on the divider when I dropped the DP, so I knocked it down by about 1/8" overall, and about 1/4" around where the contact occurred. I took a log afterwards and saw that it's still hitting 5psi over target. People on the forum seem to stay below 18 on this hardware, so I don't want to hit 19-21 every time I floor it. 

Interestingly, i noticed a similar overboost condition on an older log I took before modding and tuning. This leads me to believe I should just check/clean BCS, wastegate actuator, and associated hoses. I'll put both romraider logs below if anyone wants to take a look.

Log_before: 3rd gear WOT, crappy ebay exhaust and crappy open source tune by previous owner.

Log_after: 3rd gear WOT, mods listed above, ground down wastegate divider, open source protune. 

Log_Before.csv Log_After.csv

Stock VF46, actuator arm doesn't look adjustable 

Alright so the boost oscillation issue was finally solved after tuning. My tuner open source tuned it, it made 250whp up on the dyno, and it feels really smooth now, at all throttle levels. However, he said that it's overboosting a bit, and it sounds like it's mechanical since he wasn't able to fix it in the tune. I think I'm going to start a new thread for this since the original issue has been solved. I'll link it once it's up.

Yeah the DW came with a new fuel sock. The filter is the large white plastic part that the pump attaches to. Parts store had just closed when I did the replacement so I got impatient and kept the old one since I needed to drive today. All in all I didn't think it was that much of a hassle to do so I'll do it later if needed. I'll also check / have the tuner check the fuel pressure to make sure it's within expected.

Halfway through the pump install, and am now debating whether or not to replace the fuel filter while I have everything taken apart. Did any of you guys take care of that when you did the pump? It's at 170k and I'm not sure if it's ever been done. For what it's worth, the current one looks pretty clean.

A quick search and it looks DW and AEM are pretty similar in price, DW a tad more. My guy said the AEM one is stronger and might be too much for the stock regulator in some cases. Given I don't plan on upgrading anything else I think I'll stick with the DW. I also already ordered it, which is more justification to just roll with it 

I guess if it craps out on me I'll have an excuse to get the AEM and go all out with a bigger turbo

Yeah I was thinking about the AEM too. The guy I talked to at surgeline and the guy at SSI (who's going to do the tune) both recommended the DW one for the mods I have. They say the AEM is good but overkill unless you have upgraded fueling/intake/turbo

Got the new exhaust parts on. Fits pretty nice! The Y pipe hangs a little low for my liking but that's alright. The sound is really nice, not nearly as loud and ratty as the old one but now it has a refined growl. I spoke to a tuner and found that the boost issue seems to be due to the poor tune. Whoever open source tuned it before me didn't really know what they were doing and raised the boost limits without changing the boost targets any higher than stock. Without cats in the downpipe but mostly stock on the maps, the ecu holds back when it gets boost faster than expected. Seems I'll be looking good once I have it tuned.  I'm also going to upgrade to a DW65C fuel pump beforehand, given the mileage on the car and to make the most out of the new system/tune.

Big updates:

Both the surging and the clunking noise appear to be caused by the poorly fitting and poorly installed aftermarket exhaust system.

There's a missing nut on the downpipe/turbo flange, and since it's the bottom one (furthest away from the others) it's likely compromising the seal and could definitely be the cause of the surging. 

The clunking is caused by the oxygen sensor colliding with the undercarriage heat shields when the car shudders during clutch actuation. Since the system isn't made for the outback (or any Subaru for all I know), the bung isnt at the proper angle.

It seems like it's a good time to get a whole new exhaust system on it at this point. I might be able to get a deal on Invidia components through a local shop. If so, I'm thinking I'm going to install Invidia Uppipe, Catted Divorced wastegate downpipe, and the Q300 quad tip catback they make for the LGT. I read a few forum posts here and on the outback forum that it should fit without modifying the bumper if I can bend the hangar mounts or just install adjustable height hangars so the tips sit below the bumper. I think that's my course of action for now, will update once I get confirmation from the shop. Of course I'll have to have it tuned after all this... I'd imagine the 10 miles to the tuner wouldn't be too hard on the engine if I baby it, the new system should be only a little more restrictive than the existing one.

39 minutes ago, Pleides said:

Our center support area has a little more play in it than most I've seen in other AWD driveshafts. These car's 5-speeds are kinda clunky no matter how much you modify the car to make it not so. I have a Group N trans+engine mounts, urethane diff and subframe bushings, and urethane shift bushings and I still upset the transmission or get noises when I think I've changed gear perfectly. Rest your elbow on the center console while driving and see if anything odd is picked up. Chances are, your driveshaft is fine.

I'd recommend grabbing a set of gaskets for whatever you plan to remove to inspect the car, just FYI.

Good to know. Its a repeating noise that reminds me of when my CV joints went bad on my 97, just lower pitched and coming from under the car. Because of that I'm wary of the U-joints. There's 175k on the drivetrain after all. If I need a new shaft I'm not sure if I'd go used OEM or get one with serviceable joints. A shop guy was telling me he just gets single piece ones made but I don't know where I'd get that done where I live.

The exhaust is aftermarket and I actually don't know what model it is or even if it was originally made for the car. The turbo flange should be the same since it's the factory turbo so that gasket should fit if I can find one. I'll have to see about the other side, might have to make a gasket for it if the existing one is in rough shape.

Also just now realizing that everything's gonna be real hot when I get to the shop. I wonder how that will affect the difficulty of removing the hardware (Definitely won't be easy on my hands at least!) I guess it depends on if the bolts+studs are different materials. The shop charges per hour for lift usage so I'm not sure how long I want to wait for it to cool 

Wish I could have one of you guys look at it! Thanks for all the input. There's a self service garage with a lift nearby. I'll try to take it there this weekend and see if I can find anything with the downpipe off. Everything down there is basically rust free so it should go smoothly...fingers crossed.

Also gonna look at my driveshaft, I'm hearing / feeling some clunking during quick take offs and poorly made upshifts...

3 hours ago, Colico said:

I'm very new to to the boosted subi field. But have decent experience with VAG ( Volkswagen Audi group). In that case, I probably would say the MAF, but your dasta logging sheets look like many Subaru sheets I've seen with Stock BSA not handling everything effective, again I'm new and admit I may be totally wrong.

I replaced the MAF and saw a little improvement but the surging issue is still there for the most part. What do you mean by BSA? Is that like the VW name for boost control solenoid? Also, I couldn't find the tuner because it was tuned by the PO before they sold it to the shop, and didn't get the info.

Thanks for the replies. I haven't got a chance to take more logs but I agree that the MAF is suspect. I've cleaned it a couple times with a can of the good stuff but it could be time for a new one. I'll talk to the tuner tomorrow and see if he has any guidance. In the meantime, here's a picture of the MAF. Isn't this engine supposed to have Denso 197-6040? Also I hope that number at the bottom isn't a date code for 7-22-2014...

I've read a lot of posts about this, and tried the easy stuff first (clean MAF, check for vacuum leaks, new AF, reset ECU) but wanted some opinions. It's an 08 OBXT I recently picked up. It has a newly built EJ25 and is stock except for a Megan Racing turboback exhaust. PO had it tuned at a reputable local shop. I'm in the market for a different exhaust because I'm not a huge fan of how the fart cannon looks, and would like something a bit better quality - but that's a story for another day. I'll also definitely get in touch with the tuner about all of this but wanted to share log results here.

It drives very well at less than 60% or so throttle, has lots of torque. It acts differently under heavy boost though. It will build a good amount of boost initially but will hold back eventually, and will start surging right at the spot where it should be really pushing me back in the seat. Sometimes the bucking as a result of this is decently violent. I got around to getting a datalogger set up, so I caught it on a log today, just a quick WOT pull in 3rd. Boost seems like it's having trouble settling, between 10 and 15 psi (relative values). This leads me to think it's BCS / wastegate related, but I wanted to see what others think of the datalog before I start pulling things off and testing them (and talking to the tuner). That graph below is RPM and relative manifold pressure over time. There were a couple knock events but they happened at the very beginning and end of the pull.

romraiderlog_20221022_211259.csv

Don't worry I didn't light anyone up. I just paid enough for the car to be mad when I started this thread. Had some time to cool off before calling them 

Thanks for the writeup max. Cars running well, bleeding it almost went smoother with that expansion tank. Or maybe I'm just getting better at it

Yeah I have a jug of prestone. Ive bled the system on my NA 2nd gen legacy a couple times. How different is it for the turbo ej? I'm guessing a tuto for the same gen WRX would be the same