rmoore5

If you haven't checked this sticky do so it may help you. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/help-request-avcs-related-problem-131462.html

Door jamb on my rear door is wood, and I noticed rot at the bottom 1-2 inches on both sides. Suggestions on best way to fix?

 

Remove rot (hammer and chisel?), patch with wood putty, then sand and paint?

 

Or patch it with a piece of 2x4 (or whatever size would fit best), then putty to fill any gap and make it look flush?

 

Maybe a noob question, but I'm a noob homeowner.

 

I would like to some pictures in this thread:rolleyes:

I have gone to 5000K color LED bulbs everywhere except the living rooms. It makes a ton of difference with my old eyes. Two neighbors have asked about the front porch light on my rental houses. One says it's too bright and one says they want one just like it.

Yes, use 2, put them on the tube. Use some fluid for lube and slide it in. The 1st one puts the 2nd down in the bore further for a better seal, imho. Maybe not so humble

Picked one up today, will see

 

Put 2 on, double ring that bugger.

well, my insurance doesn't cover rot or mold. so all that damage is off the claims table. not sure much of anything will be covered, but we'll see. almost a $2k deductible too.

 

insurance is balogna.

 

$2k is better than the $10k

 

No chance of going to the pre-purchase inspectors insurance?

well, my insurance doesn't cover rot or mold. so all that damage is off the claims table. not sure much of anything will be covered, but we'll see. almost a $2k deductible too.

 

insurance is balogna.

 

Like the commercial says...you picked the wrong insurance plan:spin:

Rafters replacement, ceiling , roof repair. Possum got nailed on the edge of a rafters and bleed into the wood so replacement was the only option to extract the smells.

 

Laughing at oneself and with others is good for the Soul![emoji2]

 

Nailed as in killed or literally with a nail gun?

Do you really want to know?

 

not only yes ... but

Here are some questions that come to mind.

 

How much insurance will $10k (minus deductible) buy?

 

If it isn't used is it really insurance?

 

Why not buy only the coverage that you are willing to use and bank the savings?

So yesterday they finished DISCOVERING more rot/issues, and so the task of fixing, replacing, etc. can start. Who knows how much this is gonna cost yet, but my average guess is ~$8k.

 

Insurance person said that it had to be a "sudden and accidental" problem for any sort of water damage to be taken care of. So for example, your incoming water line for the dishwasher bursts while you're at work and the flooring and some walls are ruined. She did say that maybe this could be covered, since there were no signs of an issue until some recent dripping inside was seen, but if we submit a claim, it would go against us and remove our no-claim discount, as well as potentially raising our premium. gotta love insurance.

 

It is nice that there aren't any further suprises, and there wasn't any framing that needed replaced. just OSB and everything external of that.

 

Also, apparently our neighbor came over to talk to the workers about an issue she has. we're part of a development of 42 houses, so i can only imagine that at least a few others have a similar issue to some degree. fun times.

 

$8K and no framing ??? F that. Seems high.

But if I didn't invest in properties through my life, even major repair caused by renters, I would be financially in the position I am in my retirement years.

Thank G-d I am very handy.

 

I whole heartily agree, I retired at 58 and looking back could have gone years earlier due to my wife and my efforts in residential rentals. Sure I am continuing to work the rehabs and maintenance but it work that I enjoy and I don't punch a clock!

It's that you're basically only $20K ahead. Because unless you choose to rent, you don't get to keep the $35K. You'll put it into to another house that ALSO increased by $35K in value between the time you bought your home, and the time you sold it. So you aren't actually $35K ahead ... you're $35K even.

 

So no, you're not losing anything, but you aren't really gaining anything either. Second properties and rental homes/investment properties ... those are investments, because in the end, you can sell it and not NEED to redistribute the money into a new place to live.

 

And the love that your LL has for you is pricless

Yes it will fit under the cover.

If you have the stock TMIC you need this kit, if you can't fix the one you have you will need it for the replacement.

Adding a partition wall, oscillating multi-tool ftw.

If you look at my initial post which started this thread, you can see my picture of the crack. It is the brown line at the flange radius. They really need to beef these housings up because all the stress is transferred right through that thin plastic flange.

 

I had the same problem with my 2005 GT, I've had brake lines rust thru on Chevy pickups, diaphragms rupture in regulator and fuel pumps on various makes.

 

You have ten year old car that has a gas leak, this isn't any different than the steel fuel line rusting thru or a o-ring seal going bad. Fix it and move on, if you aren't up to the maintenance challenges of an older car get something with a warranty.

 

Leaks happen. You probably won't get much sympathy from this group.

Thanks MTB you saved me a lot of typing.

Yes, thanks I saw your post. I think my troubles are solved with it this time. Steering seems to be lighter than ever in fact.

 

I'd be willing to get the o-ring is the same for multiple models & years. Know soon.

 

Your welcome Booze or do you go by Mr. September now? Ha! Got the calendar today, seems to be a quality unit and some nice cars also!

 

The dual o-ring seemed to work for me for a couple years. Can't tell much now that my GT has become a garage queen.

 

But retirement is good:)

I replaced this o-ring about 3 months ago, and I believe I tried to install it in the pump and not on the elbow. Symptoms started up again recently and I noticed new fluid on the top of my pump. On inspection the new o-ring was kinked and broke when I tried to reinstall.

 

New o-ring installed on the elbow, seated tightly and everything is fine again.

 

 

Also question, I was helping a friend work on his 06 Impreza OBS, his pump is leaking and whining. Is it the same part number across the board?

 

Booze I responded in another thread, and before here. I used 2 of the factory o-rings to help space the bottom one down into the bore, I think this helps the sealing. Not sure about the wrx numbers without looking it up.

Got a call from a tenant that his ceiling light quit working. Found the problem in the attic, a failed connection. There was a piece of cloth covered romex spliced to the old knob and tube. It just twisted and taped, no solder. I assume the romex was added when the ceiling was lowered in the 50's or 60's. The wire pointing up in the picture is the knob and tube wire that was installed in the original electrification of the house. The white conductor is out of the cloth covered romex. As a bonus the white conductor was connected to the hot line. Of course the connection was intermittent adding to the fun. When the tenant called the glass had blown off 2 of the 3 bulbs in the fixture.

^^ The mechanic may of said what he did to defend himself for not using the short cut but you could see on his face he was thinking about the process. I wouldn't be surprised if he tries it later.

This is weird. My was done in 45 minutes and no dash removal at all

 

Wonder what else it was that he said needed added? Does it show on your service invoice?

 

I don't know what the other piece was. The computers were down, there was not any paperwork generated all day. I ask about the sticky dash inspection after the air bag was done and was told that it was done. I have my doubts about that.

 

The mechanic was 3 knuckles deep into a dash removal when I was talking to him and I choose to end the conversation rather than annoy him further before he started on my car.

I had the inflator replaced in the 05 sedan today, took about 3 hours once they got started. There is a few scars on the drivers side of the plastic piece below the dash pad. The mechanic said that he has to pull the dash because there is a part that has to be added after removing the actual bag. Mine was the second he had done that day, there was 4 more in line.

Well, got my car back late Wednesday night. Dash looks good no issues there.

However, I just got this car and on the way back from the dealership I filled up the tank for my first time. Fast forward to Friday morning when I open the garage.. I now have leaking gasoline from in front of the rear right wheel.

 

I got the airbag recall and the brake corrosion recall.

I contacted the person I bought the car from and they said they had the car in a garage recently with a full tank and no leaks.

 

Now the part I wish I didn't do yet because I'm not sure if this could cause it but I installed a cobb accessport Thursday night after the car sat in the garage that day(I drove my other car to work). I installed the cobb accesport thursday night no issues(car is stock used 93 oct stage 1 map) I didn't drive the car Thursday night. But when I isntalled the Cobb accessport I remember smelling faint gasoline but not alot and thought nothing of it.

 

Friday morning I open the garage to a puddle of gasoline and strong odor.

Not sure if subaru screwed it up doing the brake recall or if the cobb install caused the leak, it says the test mode will cycle the fuel pump...could this cause leaking?

 

But my dash looks great!......

 

I had the same symptom it turned out to be the fuel pump housing cracked. It would leak when the tank was full. I replaced it, I think there has been success epoxying it.